<TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=0 width=230 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD noWrap width=100>Height ::</TD><TD>http://wrenchscience.com/WS1//Images/guest/a.gif</TD><TD bgColor=#333399 cellspacing="1"><TABLE cellSpacing=2 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD noWrap align=middle bgColor=#ffffff>67in </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD noWrap width=100>Sternum notch ::</TD><TD>http://wrenchscience.com/WS1//Images/Guest/b.gif</TD><TD bgColor=#3399ff cellspacing="1"><TABLE cellSpacing=2 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD noWrap align=middle bgColor=#ffffff>55in </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD noWrap width=100>Inseam length ::</TD><TD>http://wrenchscience.com/WS1//Images/Guest/c.gif</TD><TD bgColor=#99cc00 cellspacing="1"><TABLE cellSpacing=2 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD noWrap align=middle bgColor=#ffffff>32in </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD noWrap width=100>Arm length ::</TD><TD>http://wrenchscience.com/WS1//Images/Guest/d.gif</TD><TD bgColor=#ffcc00 cellspacing="1"><TABLE cellSpacing=2 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD noWrap align=middle bgColor=#ffffff>24in </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

This is what wrenchsceince.com reccomends:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=5 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>OVERALL REACH :: Overall Reach Road = Effective Top Tube length + Stem Length. We know the top tube on every frame we sell. Based on your overall reach, we recommend the ideal stem length.

Click on the frame picture to the left to see how the overall reach is measured.

Your Overall Reach is :: 63.69cm Center-to-Center

What TT and stem would this roughly be?

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top rowSpan=2></TD><TD width="100%" bgColor=#999999></TD></TR><TR><TD width="100%"><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=5 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>FRAME SIZE :: Frames are measured different by each manufacturers. There are two typical ways to measure a frame Center-to-Top and Center-to-Center. We take these different measurements into account and only show you the fames that fit you specifically.

Click on the frame picture to the left to see how the center-to-top frame is measured.

Your Frame Size is :: 54cm Center-to-Top / 53cm Center-to-Center</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>BUT what size TT should I be looking for? It seems like a 54 size frame but what TT length?


Thanks for any help?
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We are the same height but you have a 1" longer inseam. I ride 51-52cm bikes(center to center) with a 53cm to 54cm top tube. 53cm TT seems to fit me better. With a 53cm TT, I use a 100cm stem. I should also say that I'm 47 and not as flexible as I used to be.

Measure your inseam: stand against a wall with your feet 6 inches/15 cm apart. Push the spine of a 1 inch/2-3 cm thick book into your crotch with significant pressure, and measure the distance from the book spine to the floor. Your saddle top to pedal axle should be 108-110% of the inseam measurement.

Here are several frame fit calculators.

http://www.bsn.com/cycling/ergobike.html
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/BikeFit/index.cfm
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harart-frames.html
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/frameinfo/Frame_Sizing.htm
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

For adjusting the fit of the bike, there are roughly five starting points: 1. Seat height (top of saddle to center of pedal axle) at 108-110% of inseam. 2. Saddle parallel to ground. 3. Saddle fore/aft adjusted so that a plumb bob from the bony protrusion just below the kneecap passes through the pedal axle when the cranks are horizontal. This is known as KOPS (Knee Over Pedal Spindle) 4. Front hub axle obscured by the handlebars when riding in your "regular" position (drops, hoods, or tops). 5. Top of handlebars 1 to 4.5+ inches below the top of the saddle depending on your flexibility and size. To measure your knee over pedal spindle (KOPS) situation, drop a plumb line from the front of the bony protrusion just below the knee cap.

These are all starting points for "average" proportioned people, and many folks like to move away from these starting points as they learn what makes them more comfortable, powerful, or efficient. For example, the KOPS position range is typically +1 to -2 cm, depending both on your personal physiology (long femurs tend to push the saddle back) and pedaling style (spinners move the saddle forward, pushers move the saddle back). You want to get the fit of the frame as close as you can, then do minor adjustments with the stem, seat post, saddle position, etc.

A lot of this is personal comfort, and we all tend to adapt to a given position over time. For example, a given stem length may be right for you, but it may feel long at first. I use the "handle bar obscures the front hub" rule for my fit, but others claim better position (for them) with the hub in front of or behind the bar. I'm 6' tall and ride with 11.5 cm drop from saddle to bar, probably more than most people would like but fine for me. Some are suggesting zero drop from saddle to bars - it's about comfort, efficiency, and aerodynamics. The ERGOBIKE calculator is pretty good, but it is not infallible. I would suggest riding some miles (over 100 total, and over 500 would be better) and see if you adapt to the position. There are no hard and fast rules, just general guidelines, when it comes to these things.

Just as important as your size is your flexibility. If you have a stiff lower back, you may not be able to lean over and stretch out as much. If you are very flexible, you may get away with a longer top tube, with the stem in a lower position. Over time on the bike, too, you may become more limber, or at least become accustomed to being lower and stretched out. So, your first 'real' bike may not be anything like what you will want 5 years from now.

Someone new to road riding is highly unlikely to find their ultimate position on the first go. As they become accustomed to the riding position and get some miles in, sometimes over several seasons, people often find their desired position changing. What was "stretched out" now feels OK, or what was "just right" now feels cramped. With time, if you are working on your position along with all your other riding stuff, seat position tends to rise, handlebars tend to be farther below the saddle, saddles tend to move rearward, and handlebars tend to be farther forward from the saddle. You simply cannot say "this is the right position for someone of your body dimensions" because there are too many variables and things that change with time. Get used to your position, and then occasionally make small changes: raise/lower your saddle, move your saddle forward/backward. Ride a while with the changes (a few 100 miles, anyway) and decide if it is better or worse. If it is better, keep moving in that direction. If it is worse, try moving the other direction. If you don't try, you won't find out, but it is a long term process, often taking years, to really dial in your position. And since your strength and flexibility are changing with time, it is reasonable that your position would need to change also.

and it's excatly 32".
I am riding a 54cm TREK but looking to get a new frame.

Thanks!