I was in Amsterdam on business last week. I rented a bike and had a good time riding around town every day. I also managed to set aside a day for a ride out of the city. The goal was to see some countryside, dikes, windmills, and anything else related to the whole land reclamation thing.

I found a site describing some nice routes and chose <a href=http://web.inter.nl.net/users/Paul.Treanor/cycle-9.html>this one</a>. The route claimed to be 47 km, and I ended up, uh, "customizing it" here and there for a total of about 62 km (38 miles).

Given that I was following a sheet of paper with prose-like directions, mixed with random historical and cultural narrative ... plus riding the 50 pound city cruiser I had rented all week (75 pounds counting the lock), this wasn't going to be any fast, all-business ride. Might as well make it downright leisurely and take plenty of photos.

I apologize in advance that the sky wasn't bluer the day I rode. It was a shame because it had been sunny all week.


Part 2: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=106790
Part 3: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?p=1200554

1. My bike, moored outside the hotel. A totally authentic Amsterdam bike, as far as I could tell. Nothing gives it away as a rental, except for the small number 33 on the rear fender.

2. The path from the hotel to the IJ ferry landing behind Centraal Station. I did this ride on Thursday (August 30th) but this pic is from the previous Sunday. There were swarms of people out that day.

3. The ferry dock, looking back (south) at Centraal Station after crossing the IJ. The ferry is free! I couldn't believe it. Nothing in Europe is free.

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I did not read the route itinerary very well before I started, so I had no real notion of where I was headed. But it turned out that my destination was Marken, a nice historic fishing island.

I put my GPS unit in my handlebar bag and had it logging my every move. Mostly as a safeguard against getting lost and stranded alone in a strange country. If nothing else, you can retrace your path.

Here's where I went, including the numerous "bonus detours".


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1 & 2. Not far past the ferry, I was instructed to walk over the gate of a lock. This is a lot of lock for not a lot of boat.

3. In the town of Nieuwendam. This would still be considered Amsterdam. It is close to the city center but on the other side of the IJ, mostly quiet and suburban. I found the route directions totally lacking for one turn I was supposed to make in Nieuwendam. This canal was on one of my prolonged side trips.


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I eventually gave up and backtracked nearly as far as the lock. While stopped to ponder the route directions again, an affable Dutch gentleman approached and said something in Dutch. I'm sorry, do you speak English? I said. He replied Yes, of course! enthusiastically.

After he pointed me to the right street, we chatted for 15 minutes about: what was I doing, had I really never been here before and so why was I braving this ride with crude directions and hardly any clothes on on a chilly day?, optimism versus pessimism, yuppies, the weather, staying open-minded and observant, some cyclists from Colorado visiting Holland who he rode with one time, etc. Not that I wasn't enjoying the conversation but it was getting late in the day. I managed to wind it down and thank him heartily for the help.

The street I had missed was Niewendammer Dijk, which is a narrow, secluded street running along the top of a medieval dike. Modest but attractive houses sit along the banks of the dike in a dense row.

The dike is broken by a tiny lock. The street goes over the lock on a bridge. Standing over the lock, you can see some boats behind the Cafe t'Sluisje (little lock cafe).

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After continuing through the 'burbs, you finally pass under the A10 highway and cross a canal. Instantly you're out in the country and on a vast, open polder.

Despite, or maybe because of the cloudy weather, it was incredibly stark and beautiful out here. A polder is land that's been reclaimed from the sea, but just barely, it appears. Canals and ponds are everywhere. The grass is very lush and green, obviously due to the remaining water table. A lot of corn crops, plus grazing cows and sheep everywhere.

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1. Hey buddy, how about we share the road?

2. Here is a pumping station. Allegedly the water has to be continuously pumped out of the polder. What happens if the power goes out?

3. Lots of small drawbridges over the canals. Now I wish I had taken a minute to see how you raise them. It looks like you pull that chain on the left. I suppose someone would have to get out of the boat.

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For the most part these roads / trails were totally empty. A couple farmers driving cars and farm machinery. Oddly enough, I did see one or two other sightseers on bright red rental bikes (cruisers) out here, a lot farther from the city than I would have expected.

1. In the village of Zuiderwoude.

2. This was right at the village center and looked like it might be a museum or library.

3. Ripening apples.

4. Interesting houses everywhere.

5. I will confess I missed the bell when I got back home and rode my own bike on a MUT.


Stay tuned for part deux.


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Very nice -- you've got to love Holland, the only hills are the overpasses! (well, at least in outside of the Maastricht area). Next time instead of renting a bike, try doing as the Dutch (at least the students and crackheads in Amsterdam do) -- just "borrow" any black bike outside of Anmsterdam central station!

...5. I will confess I missed the bell when I got back home and rode my own bike on a MUT....

A few years back we put bells on our bikes, I'll never go without again.

BTW great reports and I really like your casual approach to equipment and clothing.

A few years back we put bells on our bikes, I'll never go without again.

BTW great reports and I really like your casual approach to equipment and clothing.

I should. It would be funny to give someone the bell on some singletrack in the middle of the woods.

At first I was planning to look for a shop that would rent me a skinny tire rig for the one day with gears, toe straps, spare tube and pump. But I was pleased with the city bike, plus I was not interested in spending time hunting for a shop that would have a fancier ride. The invincible beater was totally adequate and it cost 5 euros a day.