Are there any chain tensioners (tugs) that are compatible with road style horizontal dropouts? If yes, what are they and where do I get them.

I have recently converted a late 80s steel Univega to fixed gear. I love the setup but do not like having to dial in my chain tension by “walking” the rear wheel.

Are there any chain tensioners (tugs) that are compatible with road style horizontal dropouts? If yes, what are they and where do I get them.

yes.

See my earlier thread and scroll down....
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/showthread.php?t=103924

I ended up going with one Surly Tugnut on the drive side and it works perfect. I'd assume that most tugs would work, and probably cheaper too....the Surly is pricey.

Surly Tuggnut on order at my LBS.

Cheers,

Stogaguy

If you're handy and have a few tools, you can make a pair of chain tugs for about $2 if you're so inclined. I used part of an old aluminum yard stick and some nuts and bolts from my local hardware store. I'm using them on my fixie conversion that I finished this week. It's gonna get powder coated this winter so please excuse the current ratty condition.

wow, nice work! I'm not quite so handy.

(but yours doesn't open bottle tops) :P

Thanks. I'm a dedicated tinkerer...
Mine are good for positioning the wheel for tensioning the chain, but probably aren't strong enough if the wheel were going to be pulled out of place by heavy chain tension.

Very nicely done, no go attach a bottle opener somewhere else on your bike.

If you have the time, do you mind sharing what you did to make them?

Sorry if this is lengthy...
I tend to do stuff like this kind of intuitively, so if my description isn't clear or if I miss something, don't be shy about pointing it out. It's really pretty easy and could be done with hand tools and a drill. I just drill the axle hole in a piece that I cut off the aluminum yard stick then, with the wheel at the farthest forward position, slip the piece over the axle and mark a point past the end of the dropout in line with the old adjuster hole, with enough extra to leave space for the nut. Thats where the first fold will go. Laythe piece on the bench, center the track nut over the hole and trace the outside diameter to give the outer radius. Draw the lines tangent from the curve past the marked point, leaving them the width of the nut at the mark. Sounds confusing I guess, but look at the shape of the piece and you'll see what I mean. Here's where power tools make it quicker and easier. Cut the shape out of the piece (I have a bandsaw, so it's easy).
You end up with a half circle around the axle hole at one end and two edges coming to a point at the other. Place the piece in a vise at the fold line with the pointed end sticking out and hammer the point over 90 degrees. You could do it with pliers if you hold the pointed end in the pliers up to the fold line and just bend it over. Put it in place on the dropout and mark the folded end in line with the old adjuster hole on the dropout. Drill a hole for the bolt. This would be easier to do before you bend the piece, but that makes the hole placement in relation to the fold more critical Be careful if you're doing this with a drill. Don't hold the piece by hand, put it in a vice. Safety first!
File or grind a point on the bolt to keep it centered in the adjuster hole. Put the bolt in place, put the nut on the bolt and tighten it so that the bolt and nut are tight on the plate. Hammer what's left of the pointed end over so the nut won't turn with the bolt when you adjust it. Cut off the point, loosen the bolt and put it in place on the bike. That's it.
If I were more ambitious I could have made it out of steel and it'd be strong to really hold the axle in place under load, but like I said, I'm not that strong and the track nuts hold the axle tight.
I hope I explained it well enough to follow. If not, PM me with questions and I'll try to help.