I started putting new brake pads in this evening, got the rear pads installed without incident. Take the front wheel out, take the pads out and squeezed the caliper. Something happened to the caliper when I squeezed it that it is now stuck almost together. Certainly cannot get the wheel back in. When I squeeze the lever, the pads move out-of0synch. If looking from the front, the right pad moves in a higher, tighter radius circle than the left pad.
Any idea what in the hell I did? It almost seems like it is binding on something, but I am unsure what. The cable looks ok, don't know what the spring should look like?

Anyone have a clue what in the hell I did?

Zach

Anyone have a clue what in the hell I did?

Two things that come to mind are 1) you managed to unhook the spring from one side or 2) you managed to tighten a nut that holds the pivot.

I started putting new brake pads in this evening, got the rear pads installed without incident. Take the front wheel out, take the pads out and squeezed the caliper. Something happened to the caliper when I squeezed it that it is now stuck almost together. Certainly cannot get the wheel back in. When I squeeze the lever, the pads move out-of0synch. If looking from the front, the right pad moves in a higher, tighter radius circle than the left pad.
Any idea what in the hell I did? It almost seems like it is binding on something, but I am unsure what. The cable looks ok, don't know what the spring should look like?

Anyone have a clue what in the hell I did?

Zach

When "something happened" to the caliper, did you hear or feel or otherwise notice something click? Check the spring(s) in the back of the caliper; they should be seated with their ends behind little metal nubs (varies a bit on different brands). It's possible that when you squeezed the caliper, you moved it beyond it's usual operating range and popped it out of its slot. That might account for the current brake arm movements.

I'm assuming you've checked to make sure the cable end is seated properly in the lever body (a much more common problem)?

I appreciate the replies -

I am somewhat embarrassed to admit that the cable housing had slipped out of the barrel adjuster and was blocking the caliper from fully opening. I needed to step back, breathe and look again. I will now return the brake caliper merit badge until the spring.

On a somewhat related note - the rear of the pads is what is contacting the rim, is that correct or should I realign so the front of the pad contacts the rim first? If so, what is the procedure for that?

Thanks again for the quick replies -

Zach

This is pure speculation, but it sounds like you've exceeded the normal travel of the arms. Parts moving together in close proximity will keep out contamination to some degree whereas contamination can build up unfettered in the areas adjacent to the travel. Possibly you have forced the mating parts to travel into the adjacent area and pick up contamination and drag it back into the area of normal travel. Maybe a good cleaning and lubing of the calipers will solve your problem if you are lucky. I just changed my pads, but didn't have any major problems, they feel great. HTH

In the time it took me type this up problem is solved. Toe the brakes so the front contacts slightly sooner.

Steve -

Thanks for the reply - I appreciate the effort in typing. What is the proper method to toe the brakes? Is all the adjustment with the one bolt on the back-center of the brake pad? Loosen, readjust and tighten?

Thanks,

Zach

On my holders I just rotate with them a little less than tight so a quick turn of the wrench will lock them quickly then I torque them down. With mine it is the bolt you are referring to. The plate that it threads into is rounded on the back.

The brake pad bolt controls the toe-in (assuming modern brakes with conical washers. On older brakes you adjusted toe in by bending the brake arm). But when you loosen the brake pad bolt the pad flops around and loses position relative to the rim. It needs to be square to the rim, and it needs to be positioned correctly so it is fully on the brake track while not too close to the top of the rim such that wear on the pad wil have it contacting the tire. That's really bad.

What I do is to position the pad with the bolt barely tight, then place a business card on the rim so it is flat against the brake track and so the edge will come under the rear edge of the brake pad when the brake is applied. Then apply the brake with one hand, and with the other loosen then tighten the brake pad bolt. Loosening it lets the brake pad square up to the rim surface, while the card holds the rear edge up off the surface, putting a little bit of toe in on the pad.

Sounds like a good way to eliminate the fiddling when trying to eyeball it. I've got some new wheels in transit so when I put them on I'll give your method a shot. Thanks!