I have an 07 Madone 5.2 SL D which is a great machine but once I moved to Hilly California I am about to loose my lunch making it up these hills.

Is there a way to turn this into a triple or change the gearing to make it even just a little easier to climb with?

Thanks in advance.
Jim

The 5.2SL is already a climber. It may be the engine that needs to be swapped out...LOL

That is both serious and tounge in cheek.

You probably have an Ultegra 53/39 crankset on it: You can easily get an Ultegra triple or compact crankset. It is an easy swap to do yourself or take it down to your LBS and establish a relationship in your new area.

Good luck

You are probably right on that engine part, maybe it could use a little overhaulin but cant swap it out...

That is a great idea about the compact crakset, I will look into it and establish a relationship with my local bikeshop.

If I could save some money I would like to put it towards changing the wheels to Race X Lites not so much a weight saver but they look cooler than the Race Lites.

Thanks
Jim

I have a 5900 with a triple and a 12-27 cassette. It climbs very well. I would say go for a triple, or at least a compact crankset.

I just went to Helen's Cycles and I'm thinking about going to pick up a 12-27 cassette, they said I will loose top end.

Will I loose much top end being mine is a double?

I guess I can change it out depending how I plan on riding that day...

Thanks again in advance
Jim

I just went to Helen's Cycles and I'm thinking about going to pick up a 12-27 cassette, they said I will loose top end.

Will I loose much top end being mine is a double?



If you plan on doing a lot of climbing, I say go with the 12 - 27 cassette and a compact crank.
I used this combo recently on a century that had over 10,500 feet of climbing. It wasn't a breeze, but I made it.
Can't say how much you'll lose on the top end, but it seems to be negligible. YMMV.
Another alternative is to swap out the rear dérailleur for an XT and a 12 - 34 cassette.
Good luck.

Didn't Lance Armstrong win the Alpe d'Huez time trial on a 5.9SL? Your bike is already a hill climbing special.

Since you don't say what gearing it has on it now it's impossible to say what you would have to do to change it. My 5.9SL has a regular crank and a 12-25. I use it for climbing every day and it's low enough for me. I would put on a 12-27 and leave the crank alone.

You will not lose anything in terms of your top gear. The 12-27 has the exact same 12t top gear as the stock 12-25. If you are finding the stock gearing difficult, a two tooth drop will make a difference but I don' think it will be that big of a difference. I would seriously consider a compact crankset as this will give you a 5 tooth lower low gear (front chainring is 34t instead of 39t). If you feel like the top gear is a big loss then you can switch to a 11-26 cogset. A 50x11 is actually a taller top gear than a 53x12.

Awesome advice all and I may have also learned a thing or two. I will put the 12-27 on it and I am sure I will like it.

Thanks all
Jim

Awesome advice all and I may have also learned a thing or two. I will put the 12-27 on it and I am sure I will like it.

Thanks all
Jim

hmm i dont think that it will help you that much... im guessing if it were so much a problem to the point where you had to come here and post .. i think ur in need of a little more change on your drivetrain... a 12-27 cassette and compact ... or keep your rear cassete and go with a triple crank....

hmm i dont think that it will help you that much... im guessing if it were so much a problem to the point where you had to come here and post .. i think ur in need of a little more change on your drivetrain... a 12-27 cassette and compact ... or keep your rear cassete and go with a triple crank....

I agree with thedips... swapping out the crank for a compact is the easiest route to go after getting a 12-27. It's easy enough that you could do it yourself with one tool and not even have to go to the lbs.

Swapping to a triple will require a complete overhaul of your groupset.

I guess a compact crank makes sense, If I cant handle the big climbs after that I will stay on the hills I can handle.

I've heard changing to a triple can be expensive when all is said and done.

I live in Portland, Oregon, and climb most times i ride. Most of my bikes are 12-25, but if i were in the mountains every day, i'd throw on a 12-27.

Try the 12-27 perhaps and see if it works. If you find yourself still struggling, then maybe you might need a compact or a triple even. Though, I would say a compact with a 12-27 would most certainly enable you to climb better.

It'd also help if you get more miles on the road and work on your leg strength. This would help you in future and make you a better rider too.

Jim, I haven't read all the posts, but if your bike is stock it already has a 12-25 on it. Going to a 12-27 will not be much of a difference. But then again an Ultegra cassette and chain will only set you back about $70. As opposed to a new crankset/STI shifter/rear derailleur/chain and cassette.

I am not sure what your hills look like, but you can keep the 12-25 you have and go with a triple. If you go with the compact, you may want to look into swapping in a cassette with an 11 tooth high gear as that will help you not loose that top end.

Your LBS should have some rides in stock with both triples and compacts. Try them out, see what you like.

If it were me, I don't like compacts. I find them too restrictive due to the normal setup with a wide spread cassette (although that is not required). If I was finding some longer steep climbs that really stressed me out, I would go triple any day of the week.

Just my 2¢, hope it helped.
zac

I would like to second the opinion of converting to a compact (50-36) crankset for hills.

As far as losing "top end" - you would only lose anything if you are already making full use of your current top gear. Are you really spinning out your current crankset?

If you currently have a standard (53-39) crankset with a 12-25 cassette and spin at 90rpm, then in your top gear you'd be cruising at 31.1MPH.

With the same cassette, but going to 50-34 chainrings, that 90rpm in top gear will get you moving at 29.3mph.

For most recreational cyclists, that's plenty fast, and you'd only need to even use the biggest gear if you're on a long downhill and want to go over 30mph. If so, you can just increase your cadence to 120rpm, which will let you go almost 40mph.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, the 50-34 will be something aroundt 10% easier in the lowest gear at the same rpm when climbing. Going to a 12-27 cassette will save another 8-10% of effort.

Of course, the best way to increase the climbing ability of your bike is to do a lot of climbing.

Everybody, Thanks for all the info, as you can tell I am pretty much a newbie. I dont even know what gears I have on there now so all this info your giving me helps out alot even though it seems pretty basic.

First, I will figure out what gears and crank I have now then I probably go with the 12-27 and get more seat time.

Then if I am not satisfied I will add a compact crank (size ?) and get even more seat time.

I feel the above plan should do it but as mentioned by a few, riding more is probably most importaint......

I am 5'5" with a 26" standover, the frame is 50cm- would a Bontrager RaceX Lite170mm or 172.5mm(due to short legs) 53x39 carbon crank be a good choice?

Thanks
Jim

If you later decide to go with a compact crankset, my personal opinion is to go with a 50-36. Since you're relatively short, going with a 170mm would be fine, although there have been studies that show no direct correlation between crank length and any physical dimension. I'm 5'8" and like 170mm.

As far as the brand/model/material - I don't think it matters all too much. Everybody here has their opinions, and many will rate cranks on stiffness - if you find you can bend your current cranks and it bothers you, then look for some nice stiff ones I suppose.

I've got one bike with an FSA carbon 53-39, a bike with an FSA crabon 50-36, and a bike with Truvativ 50-34. They all have 12-25 cassettes. For general riding that includes hills, the 50-36 is my usual choice. The 50-34 has too large a jump between chainrings.

I think a 50-36 crank and 12-27 cassette should get you up and over all but the most heinous climbs.

I would still recomend getting the 50-34. The point of getting a compact will be getting lower gears so you might as well go all the way. Most all compact setups come with this configuration so you could always change to the 36t later on. Shimano makes an R700 compact crank that is basically a Ultegra crank. While there is all kinds of speculation on stiffness, weight, looks etc, it is generally accepted that Shimano cnainrings shift the best.

JimT:
I live in your new riding area and regularly climb the Santa Monica Mountains.

For the uninitiated, here's a link to the local climbs (http://www.birthdaychallenge.com/links/notesonclimbs.html) from my friend Steve "Stainless" Edwards.

My previous bike had an Ultegra triple on it. It did not shift well, no matter how often I had it professionally tuned at various shops. The triple just never found the middle chainring with any predictable accuracy. I did like the climbing in the lower gears, though.

My new bike is set up with a Sram Force compact 50-34 crank. It works very well. I started w/ a Sram 11-26 open glide cassette, but missed the extreme climbing low gear of my former triple. I switched to a Dura-Ace 12-27 and gained some climbing ease, but gave up some of the high-end spinning speed.

Just recently I upgraded again. I've just installed the newest Sram cassette: An open glide 11-28. I've now gotten back the high-end spinner as well as the low-end climbing gear. It shifts like butter and I truly don't mind the big jumps in gear ratios. I'm able to stay in the saddle on the steep climbs more.

Good luck w/ your setup, but I don't recommend changing to a triple. They are heavier and less reliable.

My 2 cents.

cheapest way is to go "compact double", you can then run a 12-25 cassette, if you get a medium caged rear derailer you can then go as high as 12-32 rear cassette, if that isn't enough get a triple crank and front derailer, if that doesn't work you definitely need a new engine!

And one other thing:

If you decide to change to a triple, you'll be investing in a entire new drivetrain. You'll need a new front shifter, new front derailleur, new crankset, and new chain.

Changing to a compact double, you'll only need to change the crankset, lower the front der, and shorten the chain a few links.

OK I found out that I have a 12-25 cassette and the 53/39 crankset.

Now... I am pretty sure I going to get a 50-36 compact crankset and will run the 12-25 cassette.

I have been riding since July and I expected that I would have been a stronger rider by now but I guess I have to work harder and get more seat time. Also I weigh 166 lbs and I should be at about 150 maybe even 145, hmmm, the amount I should loose is about how much my bike weighs:idea:

Thanks all, now back to my bike maintainance.

Jim

What determines your speed of ascent is your power to weight ratio. This is why great climbers look like Alberto Contador and Micheal Rasmussen. 15 or 20 pounds is way overweight for someone your size. Loosing 20 pounds will increase your power to weight ratio by something like 15%. I'm old enough to be your father at least, yet I ride big climbs like Mount Evans every year using a 39-25 low gear. Climb a lot and get on a good diet. Of course this is easy for me to say since I don't have a job.

I have to agree with you 100%. I realized that when I moved from Ga to Ca. I had not rode for over a month, gained 10 lbs and my conditioning went to pot... I was riding 46 hilly miles in Ga. (did suffer), now I cant handle 4% climbs at any appreciable distance and at 26 miles I'm worn out.

I have to admit my biggest problem is diet. Being a lazy, sinlge guy, it is easy to eat all the bad stuff however I have lost 4 lbs through riding and starvation (not good), yesterday's ride was aweful.

I am starting my new job tonight (7 PM-7AM) so I am going have to put more emphasis on healthy diet and keeping up the miles. Anyway that is why I got started riding, to get in shape...

As a motavator I am going to put my bike on a diet also with some blingy Easton EA90 rims which will take a full pound off it. She will be weighing in right at 16 lbs..

Maybe when all is said and done I might be able to hang on some big climbs.

Thanks for the talk
Jim

Now... I am pretty sure I going to get a 50-36 compact crankset and will run the 12-25 cassette.

:thumbsup: Works for me!

Jim,

You can try setting a small target of losing about half to one pound per week. This would mean a caloric deficit of 250-500 per day and it's not too hard.

Eat slower. Also, proteins fill you up too.

Set a goal and work towards it. Say, be able to ride 25miles without any problems in a few weeks. Etc etc.

Good luck with your goal dude.

Better yet, set the goal of one good destination ride per week. Use a guidebook or suggestions from shop guys and get out and experience the best riding you can a couple of times. Before you know it you will have a borderline unhealthy addiction to cycling and the rest (weight loss, diet) will happen all by itself.

Definately good ideas, and I think I am already addicted. Hopefully once I bling out my bike (I know not totally necessary) My addiction will be somewhat satiated adn then I could focus on healthy lifestyle and enoying the ride....

Here is my happy destination:thumbsup: This is about half way up the switch backs I am sure there are nicer views after this but by the time I get here I am about ready to puke...

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b242/bchboy1206/img_0073.jpg
Palos Verde Ca. PS, it's higher than it looks.

Just swapping out your cassette for an SRAM 11-28 will make a huge difference in climbing. If that's not enough, then swap out the crankset for a 50/34 compact. IF that's not enough, then swap out the bearings on the BB and wheels for ceramic ones (makes a huge difference for me). I swap out the cassette on mine for hill climbs with my friends to make it easier, amazing what difference there is just between a 27T and 28T on hills. I haven't found a need to switch to a 34 chain ring upfront yet, but I haven't really tried either, since it's a lot more work to swap out a crankset than a cassette, and I'm lazy when it comes to modding my bikes.

When swapping out the cassette from lets say a 25 to a 27, is there much rear der. tuning involved or is it plug and play? I have a stock 07 5.2 SL

You need a longer chain.