Short version:
How do the X series and Zero compare as to ease of unclipping and clipping in? Are the Zeros as easy to unclip from as the Xs?

Long version:
I have wonky knees and was using the X2s for about two years. I found the pedals effortless to clip into and unclip from. My knees appreciated the float, but at the same time I thought there was a bit too much float.

A couple months ago, I decided to try the Ultegra SPD-SLs, the new ones PD-6620. They offered less float and a wider platform (I'd had hotspot issues with the Speedplays--turns out I got a hotspot with the Ultegras, so it's clearly a shoe/sock thing). I have decided the pedals don't have quite enough float and just don't feel right. Even more annoying, I find them VERY difficult to unclip from (clipping in is also a pain because of them being single-sided and not hanging vertically). I think unclipping is actually stressing my knee quite a bit. And, yep, I have the tension set to the lowest level.

So, I've naturally been considering the Zeros because they have adjustable float. This testing is getting expensive, though. Are the Zeros as easy to clip in and out of as the Xs? I'm especially worried about the unclipping after using a hard-to-unclip system.

TIA

I too have knee problems and have had great success with the Look Keo pedals. It sounds like they would be dead wrong for you since you disliked the Shimano's so much. I personally love the X series pedals but could definitely see how the non-adjustable float could be a problem. My experiance has been that the Zeros are every bit as easy to clip in/out as the X's. However, the reason I never bought them was that there is no adjustable spring tension, which always worried me even though I never had a problem when I tested them.

I found the Zeros much better for my bad knee than the Xs. I find the Zeros require more effort/force to unclip than the Xs, but this doens't hurt my knee. How about the new "Light" model?

I've used Speedplay Zeros for two years and have experienced the following:

The pedal body wears down if there is ANY dirt between the pedal and cleat. This is exacerbated by the fact that the cleat itself is a magnet for dirt, as it is coated with lubricant. Admittedly, I was not as fastidious about cleaning the pedals and cleats after every ride when I initially installed them. This was because I had moved from Campy Pro-fits, which require very little in the way of maintenance by comparison and I was used to neglecting them.

The plastic plate inside the cleat, which is the primary weight and friction-bearing surface that the pedal rides and turns on, is subject to the same wear as the pedal only it is at a significantly greater rate. It is composed of a softer material than the pedal body and really shows the wear. It develops rather deep indentations that are the mirror-image of the pedal itself, as the pedal is constantly rotating against this surface. If there is the smallest amount of grit between the pedal and the cleat, the wear action is accelerated significantly.

One cannot tell by looking that the pedal body is wearing. A dial caliper is required to measure the thickness of the pedal. The outside portion of the pedal is the location of the greatest wear (this is the 3 o'clock position, as looking down from the saddle, for the right side, 9 o'clock for the left). When new, the pedal body thickness is .675". I have found that the pedal starts to feel sloppy when the outside of the pedal body has lost around .010". Bear in mind that the cleat will have at least the same amount of wear and usually more (say .015" or so). One feels the wear as a tendency for the foot to roll to the outside. It really doesn't take much wear to feel this sloppiness, and it snowballs once it has started. The gap between the pedal and cleat gets bigger and the slop gets worse.

Here is what I have done. 7 months after initial installation, the pedal bodies had worn down to .635", a full forty thousandths! This is about the thickness of the wire that a large paper clip is made of. (It's alot, trust me). The cleat plate had indentations that were seventy thousanths deep! When I clipped in, there was all kinds of slop, as the total gap was around .110". Thats huge! Again, I did not clean the pedals/cleats regularly like I do now. All of this necessitated my purchase of new pedal bodies (around $80) and new cleats (around $40).

After installing the new components I lubed the components with a copious amount of Triflow before EVERY ride, and subsequently cleaned the pedals and cleats AFTER every ride with Clean Streak and shop towels (an expensive routine, but I wanted to be sure). I also used cleat covers when not on the bike. I was very disciplined about this. However, after 2 months (approx. 1200 miles) I noticed the cleats had lost around .010", (the pedals showed no wear) even after the meticulous regime I followed with respect to cleaning and lubing. The slop was starting to creep back. I needed a fix, and after much thought came up with this inspired solution. I purchased a sheet of .030" brass shim stock from my local hobby store. I then proceeded to cut 2 brass cleat plates, using the plastic cleat plates as templates, from the shim stock. I installed the brass over the plastic cleat plates and screwed the assembly together. The fit is perfect with no slop and there is no issue with my foot rolling to the outside. It functions EXACTLY like the old setup. I have ridden this setup now for approx. 18 months. The brass plates have worn about .008" in this time and the pedals have worn about .010". About 5 months ago, when I first noticed the brass plates starting to wear, I swapped them from one shoe to the other and flipped them over, exposing the unworn surface to the pedal. It was like putting on new brass plates! I expect the plates will last about a year. The pedal bodies are now showing about .010" wear. This is much better than before, when I lost .040" in 7 months.

When the pedal wear reaches around .015" I am ditching these pedals and may go back to the Campys. I would not recommend the Speedplay Zeros, as they are expensive to maintain given the price of new pedal bodies and cleats. Even if one goes to as much trouble as I have, I don't feel as though the benefits outweigh the disadvantages.

Do I get an A?

(I cut this from a reply I made to an earlier post. I have since ditched the Zeros and am very happy with Look Keo Carbons. They are easy on my knees. I have the 4 degree float cleats. I can't overemphasize how bad the wear was on the Zeros. The slop between the pedal and cleat will cause you knee problems, as your foot tends to roll to the outside as the wear occurs, which I found to be rather quick. Hope this helps).

Thanks. The Keo Carbon was what my shop was pushing. Because I was worried about hotspots I went with the Ultegras instead. In retrospect, I'm glad I did, because the Keos would have set me back an additional $100!

I too have knee problems and have had great success with the Look Keo pedals. It sounds like they would be dead wrong for you since you disliked the Shimano's so much. I personally love the X series pedals but could definitely see how the non-adjustable float could be a problem. My experiance has been that the Zeros are every bit as easy to clip in/out as the X's. However, the reason I never bought them was that there is no adjustable spring tension, which always worried me even though I never had a problem when I tested them.

Unfortunately, the Light Actions don't have adjustable float. Less than the Xs, but not adjustable.

I found the Zeros much better for my bad knee than the Xs. I find the Zeros require more effort/force to unclip than the Xs, but this doens't hurt my knee. How about the new "Light" model?

Are you suggesting that the Zero cleats are going to require a lot more maintenance than the X cleats?

I've never had any issues at all with my X2 pedals and cleats. I wasn't especially careful about them, although I would clean them off and dry lube them on occasion. Nowhere near after every ride, though.

Actually, I went about a year before I dry lubed them for the first time. I definitely neglected the cleats in that time. Once I discovered the magic of dry lube they worked good as new.

The X and zero cleat/pedal interface is basically the same. If you didn't have problem with the x's you won't have a problem with the Zeros. If you were worried about wear, you should use the cleat covers and not "toe off" when you walk. This isn't exactly rocket science. I will say this though, the metal cleat of the speedplays will last much longer than the soft plastic composite of the campy, shimano, look or time cleats.

This will extend the life of the metal cleats as well as give traction when walking on slippery surfaces.

Unfortunately, the Light Actions don't have adjustable float. Less than the Xs, but not adjustable.

Jorgy, are you pretty dialed in on how much float you're looking for, or that adjustable is essential? My knees and I are very happy with some Light Actions I've had for a couple of months. Used to ride X2s, then Keos with red cleats, before the Light Actions. No knee issues on X2s, a bit of knee barking on Keos when training for/riding centuries, and no issues on Light Actions. Effortless to clip in/clip out. Float is clearly less than X2s. But, if adjustable float's essential, point taken, Light Actions not for you.

Was wondering if you ever got your feet shimmed. I think that you are wearing out peddle bodies because your feet are out of alinement and you need some Lemond wedges. I went though one ride side body before figure out. Now no problems at all with cleats or speedplay bodies wear prematuraly.

I agree that your early wear problem is due to foot misalignment. Sounds like a classic case of forefoot varus, where the foot tips to the outside, causing the wear at the 3 O'clock position. I'd try 1-2 Lemond wedges, with the thick side toward the inside of the cleat. The wedges also become the wear surface of the base plate.

I've always followed Speedplay's recommendation to use a dry lube, not a wet lube like Triflow, which will pickup dirt. I have no excessive wear on the pedal and get at least 5,000 miles from a pair of cleats. Most recently, I've switched to Blaster dry lube. Seems to work quite well. Some silicon sprays also do the job, but not all are dry lubes.

I had the opposite (less common) problem of forefoot vulgus on my left foot. My foot angled such that the cleat spring rubbed on the pedal axle. One Lemond wedge, with the thick side on the outside of the cleat fixed that problem.

This will extend the life of the metal cleats as well as give traction when walking on slippery surfaces.

Outer plate wear is an issue but more importantly is wear of the spring wire. The spring is round and a flat spot wears into it (like shown in the photo). When the flat spot develops, it allows the cleat to develop play relative to the pedal thus causing more wear.

Some shops carry the inner cleat layer separate which is much cheaper than purchasing an entire X series cleat. Replace the wire on the inside to extend the life of the pedals. If anyone knows where to purchase these on-line, please post a link. I need a couple of new sets.

I use these covers for my Speedplay Zero cleats at all times off the bike.

Bought them from here:

http://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?page=8&description=Cleat+Covers+Zero+Style&vendorCode=SPEDPLAY&major=5&minor=6