Sorry if this has been discussed, it's sometimes hard to keep track. I've got Dura Ace 53-39, 12-25. I'm getting older and hills aren't getting smaller in new England. I'd like to ease things up by going compact crank as opposed to a 12-27 (seems to wide). I've looked at gear calculators and like the ratios of a 50-36, while leaving the 12-25. I've noticed many are only availabe in 50-34. Then I'd probably use an 11-26 requiring a new cassette, which isn't a big problem. But how is the front shifting going to be with a 16 tooth difference? Would I need a new front der.? I do think a compact crank makes sense for me, but which one? Also, I've read reviews here and FSA doesn't seem to be as well received as I might have thought. Maybe SRAM, Easton? Will most any work with my current Shimano set-up? Thanks for any help, so much knowledge here.

You'll get the best front shifting with a Shimano compact crank.
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PS. If you have a 10 speed system, a SRAM 10 speed cassette will not fit on a 7800 rear hub. With a compact, a 12-25 should be more gears than you need.
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PSS. Age has nothing to do with getting up hills. Lack of fitness and carrying too much weight, has more to do with it.

Sorry if this has been discussed, it's sometimes hard to keep track. I've got Dura Ace 53-39, 12-25. I'm getting older and hills aren't getting smaller in new England. I'd like to ease things up by going compact crank as opposed to a 12-27 (seems to wide). I've looked at gear calculators and like the ratios of a 50-36, while leaving the 12-25. I've noticed many are only availabe in 50-34. Then I'd probably use an 11-26 requiring a new cassette, which isn't a big problem. But how is the front shifting going to be with a 16 tooth difference? Would I need a new front der.? I do think a compact crank makes sense for me, but which one? Also, I've read reviews here and FSA doesn't seem to be as well received as I might have thought. Maybe SRAM, Easton? Will most any work with my current Shimano set-up? Thanks for any help, so much knowledge here.

Sure, a majority of compact cranks are available as only 50/34 combos, but those cranks are only a 36 chainring away from being what you want. If you like the 50/36, 12-25 ratios the best, then that's what you should get.

Almost any of the top name cranks will work fine with your setup. If Shimano chainrings shift better, the difference will be marginal. Iffin' I were you, I'd look at Fulcrum, Campy, Zipp, KCNC, and in a pinch, FSA. I don't much care for SRAM/Truvativ stuff.

Some of your gearing thoughts don't quite make sense to me. If you get a 50/34 instead of a 50/36 that would not inclince you to use an 11-26 instead of a 12-25, since both reduce the top gear by the same 6%. With an 11-26 you lose the 16T cog and get a big jump at the 15-17 shift. You're right that the 12-27 cassette will have two large jumps, at the 21-24 and 24-27.

If you change to the a 50/36 you lose 6% on the top end. The low gear of 36/25 is the same as a 39/27, so you are pretty much just trading a top gear for a low gear. If you need very much help getting up the hills, then a 34/25 low would be about the same as a 39/29 and provide a lot more help.

I'll disagree with the idea that age doesn't affect your ability to climb. I don't have much extra weight to get up the climbs at 135 lbs, but at age 54, I can't produce nearly as much power for extended periods, as I could 10 years ago. I get humbled quite often by racers who are 20-30 years younger, climbing the same mountain route, much faster than I can. I've foolishly latched onto a rider or small group and kept up for a mile or so, but it soon over-taxes my old body and I'm forced to drop off the back.

Check out the best times for the 28 mile Bob Cook Memorial Mt. Evans Hillclimb. The record is around 1:43, while the best riders, 55 and older are about 30 minutes behind. Of course there are exceptions. Ned Overend did it in about 1:50 at age 51.

Yes, you make perfect sense. I've thought about it and I don't need a 50-11. Shimano doesn't make a 12-26 10 speed cassette. So it makes sense to leave my 12-25 on and go with a 50-34, since you're right about the 50-36, 12-25 just trading one high gear for one low. A 50-34, 12-25 will give me 2 gears below my current granny and still give me the same high gear as a 50-36, 12-25 which would only gain me one low gear. Make sense? Thanks again.

FWIW, I'm using 50/36 12-23, and the 36-23 is my bailout. If push came to shove, and I lived in Colorado, and did a loaded tour, I'd probably go to a 25, which would surely suffice.
I'm running a truvativ/gxp, which is pretty good. american classic conv cassette w sram 1090r chain for chorus brifters and derailleur. Probably going to get chorus or fulcrum UT and go to KNC chain. It works great.

I have a campy 50/34 11/25 setup. I am considering moving to a 12/25 or even a 13/26 because I could really use the 16 and 18 gear. I don't really need the top end of the 11, but still need a 25 for climbing.

I have a campy 50/34 11/25 setup. I am considering moving to a 12/25 or even a 13/26 because I could really use the 16 and 18 gear. I don't really need the top end of the 11, but still need a 25 for climbing.

I'm not a high speed descender so I'm running a 13-26 Campy cassette with my 50/34 compacts. I really would have no use for a 12 cog for my style of riding. :)