Came across this on the fixed gear gallery:

http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/resources/brooks/

<img src=http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/resources/brooks/trek1.jpg>

The horizontal rear opening dropouts are under the chain stay, which allows a screw to be threaded through from the front, acting as a chain tensioner. This makes a whole lot of sense. Much more elegant, considering the tensioner, too, than a normal track opening with a separate chain tensioner. You don't have to pull the tensioner out of the way when removing the wheel, but only loosen it a bit, I imagine.

Designed from scratch, I suppose you'd account for this position by using upswept chain stays or account for it in the other frame tube angles.

Thoughts?

Came across this on the fixed gear gallery:

http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/resources/brooks/

<img src=http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/resources/brooks/trek1.jpg>

The horizontal rear opening dropouts are under the chain stay, which allows a screw to be threaded through from the front, acting as a chain tensioner. This makes a whole lot of sense. Much more elegant, considering the tensioner, too, than a normal track opening with a separate chain tensioner. You don't have to pull the tensioner out of the way when removing the wheel, but only loosen it a bit, I imagine.

Designed from scratch, I suppose you'd account for this position by using upswept chain stays or account for it in the other frame tube angles.

Thoughts?

Looks like a good idea, but chain tugs do work OK with track ends. Also, the adjustment bolts in old horizontal drop out bikes always seem to be bent and they don't have any pedalling force on them. What we need is a good tug that works with forward facing drop outs.

TF

What we need is a good tug that works with forward facing drop outs.

TF

What if you simply inserted or threaded a screw from the rear, all the way through the axle (bolt on, I assume) -- drill out the axle? With a nut or cap on the forward end, you could pull the axle backwards to retain it.

That is a home-made JB weld job of reversing a drop out- and it alters brake positioning- would you really trust JB weld?!

As a design issue, it seems the chainstays would really need to be repositioned so as to not raise the rear.

Also, what is up with using a QR?

That is a home-made JB weld job of reversing a drop out- and it alters brake positioning- would you really trust JB weld?!

I think the JB weld was only used to hold it in place prior to brazing

Also, what is up with using a QR?

Looks to be an old steel faced QR. Been running one of those my self, and have had zero problems with it slipping. They work fine as long as you get them tight enough. Will be going to nuts on my next wheel set though.

What if you simply inserted or threaded a screw from the rear, all the way through the axle (bolt on, I assume) -- drill out the axle? With a nut or cap on the forward end, you could pull the axle backwards to retain it.

I'd be afraid of taking that much metal out of the axle unless there was some real engineering and/or testing done on it. An RBR "I've been doing it for years." doesn't count as testing.

Also, my drop outs are not drilled and tapped for a positioning bolt. Actually, I think that would be enough for me. At least it would go back to the same plce each time.

TF

I don't understand the benefit of tugs. What can they do that your hands cannot?

Alex

I don't understand the benefit of tugs. What can they do that your hands cannot?

Alex

My wheel is never straight. Maybe if I had five hands (with arms) I could pull, measure and tighten at the same time. With a tug, I just adjust til perfect, then tighten the nuts.

TF

My wheel is never straight. Maybe if I had five hands (with arms) I could pull, measure and tighten at the same time. With a tug, I just adjust til perfect, then tighten the nuts.

TF


They are much more precise, and keep the axle located even if the nut loosens a bit. With lots of hard out of the saddle climbing, mashing really, really hard, I find them to be invaluable to my peace of mind.

They are much more precise, and keep the axle located even if the nut loosens a bit. With lots of hard out of the saddle climbing, mashing really, really hard, I find them to be invaluable to my peace of mind.

Doug, do you have the old style positioning adjustment bolts? If so, do you still find it difficult to line up the rear wheel? I just have horizontal, forward facing with no bolts (2000 Bianchi Volpe) and am wondering if the bolts would be enough.
Thanks,
TF

that's seems like such a good idea, I wonder why no one eelse has thought of it before ...

oh wait ...

paul did ...

and made it look way nicer, without the JB weld

/sarcasm