So, did I get lucky…or screwed?

The bike is a mid-seventies vintage Raleigh Super Course MKII. The top tube says “Made in England.”

The guy who sold it to me bought it in 1974 and rode it for 5 or 6 years and parked it in his basement where it has sat ever since. Everything appears to be in working shape and appears that everything is original. The thing is filthy…I’ll post pics a little later.

I gave him fifty bucks for it…how’d I do?

this thread is useless w/o pictures :D:wink5:

but you've said enough to have your question answered: You done good. If nothing but the frame were salvageable it would be worth more than $50, IMO. If most of the parts still work you got a great deal.

Here's some general info from Sheldon:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/super-course.html

I would upload photos, but my camera batteries are dead and they are those special exotic batteries that are only carried in one store where you have to have a spell cast upon you by a magical dwarf in order to get in.

Here are some pics. Sorry about the quality. Unfamiliar camera and weird lighting conditions are to blame.

looks in good shape:thumbsup:

nice score!

Either you cleaned it up, or you have very different cleanliness standards than I do. That thing looks NICE! I like the green better than the red, too.

You can probably get those magic dwarf batteries online (and cheaper rechargeables, too). Check out this place.
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp

love the fenders. looks pretty big though, think you can handle it?

Either you cleaned it up, or you have very different cleanliness standards than I do. That thing looks NICE! I like the green better than the red, too.

You can probably get those magic dwarf batteries online (and cheaper rechargeables, too). Check out this place.
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp

It looks a lot better in pictures. Its pretty danged dirty. For some reason, cameras just don't seem to capture dirt that well.

As far as the size is concerned, I've got pretty long legs so I have to ride a bigger bike.

Looks like it has Reynolds 531 stickers what else do they say?

Looks like it has Reynolds 531 stickers what else do they say?

You are correct. The sticker underneath it is a Charlotte bicycle license (it used to be mandatory to have a bike license in Charlotte).

You are correct. The sticker underneath it is a Charlotte bicycle license (it used to be mandatory to have a bike license in Charlotte).
Inside the 531 decals is more info, what is that??

http://sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/super-course.html
Looks like 531 straight gauge 1976 model

http://sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/super-course.html
Looks like 531 straight gauge 1976 model

The sticker says:

Reynolds 531
Manufactured by Reynolds (something) co.
Birmingham, England.

In the middle of the seat tube is a sticker that says "Carlton"

The stamping in the BB says WL4(sideways K)000900

Great bike, looks like a great score for 50. As for cleaning you could spend a few hours carefully going through it and make it really sparkle if you'd like. I have done a few over the past few months and have had great luck on the non-painted metal bits with Eagle 1 wading polish. It's made for mag wheels and is like very very fine steel wool with polish in it. It doesn't scratch, makes parts look new with some good elbow grease. It takes of minor surface rust that most bikes of this age have.

Of course you need to wash and degrease things the most you can before you start. I just use dawn. Great bike. Clean it up, post more pics after, with close-ups.

Been trying this stuff on some of my shiny bits, liked it way better than E1.

Been trying this stuff on some of my shiny bits, liked it way better than E1.


Is the flitz just polish as in a liquid or paste? Or does it have the steel wool stuff in the can with the steel wool stuff soaked in the polish?

The E1 polish is average but the steel wool stuff is what really makes the difference for me. Just the righy mix of grit and texture to get the crap off but not scratch. FWIW The link is to the stuff I've been using...

http://www.eagleone.com/pages/products/product.asp?itemid=1006&cat=5006

Not the lightest. Not the quickest. But a real nice ride.

Reynolds 531 straight gauge main tubes. British shopping cart steel for the rest.

Mine is a 1972, converted to a fixed gear, everyday commuter. Room for bigger tires (I went 700-28), SKS fenders, and modern running gear.

Again, a very nice ride. Good score. Have fun whatever you do with her.:thumbsup:

Not the lightest. Not the quickest. But a real nice ride.

Reynolds 531 straight gauge main tubes. British shopping cart steel for the rest.

Mine is a 1972, converted to a fixed gear, everyday commuter. Room for bigger tires (I went 700-28), SKS fenders, and modern running gear.

Again, a very nice ride. Good score. Have fun whatever you do with her.:thumbsup:

I'm thinking that's the same approach I'll take with mine. I believe the original wheels are 700C so I won't have a problem transferring the Weinmann's I have on my Schwinn now.

From what I can see, it's a gas-pipe 531 frame, the kind you used to find at garage sales for $20. The components look like basic ones of the period, certainly nothing of any real value. If the BB bearings aren't shot, it might be wort $50. If it's shot, though, a replacement one is gonna cost you. The rims are surely 27" (630mm, not 700c) which will limit your tire choices drastically. Most of the threading on this bike is Whitworth, not English standard or metric, so common components made today will not fit it. The frame looks like a 27" (maybe a 28"?), which will be perfect for you if you're at least 6'4" tall. If you're shorter, then the frame is too big for you.

From what I can see, it's a gas-pipe 531 frame, the kind you used to find at garage sales for $20. The components look like basic ones of the period, certainly nothing of any real value. If the BB bearings aren't shot, it might be wort $50. If it's shot, though, a replacement one is gonna cost you. The rims are surely 27" (630mm, not 700c) which will limit your tire choices drastically. Most of the threading on this bike is Whitworth, not English standard or metric, so common components made today will not fit it. The frame looks like a 27" (maybe a 28"?), which will be perfect for you if you're at least 6'4" tall. If you're shorter, then the frame is too big for you.

According to retroraleighs.com, the Super Course was the least expensive frame to use standard English threads so I think I may be OK in that regard.

In any case, I stripped the frame of all its jewelry today and its considerably ligher than the Schwinn Traveler frame I built my fixie out of.

I may build a singlespeed out of this one.

Mine was in much tougher shape than yours. I eventually built it up as a single speed and ride it quite a bit. It's a sturdy, fun to ride bike. Here is a link to a post of the bike with pictures: http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2006/cc141-kirbyduncan0706.html

From what I can see, it's a gas-pipe 531 frame, the kind you used to find at garage sales for $20. The components look like basic ones of the period, certainly nothing of any real value. If the BB bearings aren't shot, it might be wort $50. If it's shot, though, a replacement one is gonna cost you. The rims are surely 27" (630mm, not 700c) which will limit your tire choices drastically. Most of the threading on this bike is Whitworth, not English standard or metric, so common components made today will not fit it. The frame looks like a 27" (maybe a 28"?), which will be perfect for you if you're at least 6'4" tall. If you're shorter, then the frame is too big for you.

Don't let Dave discourage you.

The words "gas pipe" and "531" don't belong in the same sentence. Reynolds 531 steel, a lightweight alloy, was used in fighter aircraft during the Second World War, specifically in the Royal Air Force's Supermarine Spitfire, arguably the most famous British aircraft of all time. I've wondered if, at the rear of it's Malcolm canopy, one might find a 'Guaranteed Built with Reynolds 531' decal. Kind of fun to think about as you're swooping down a steep hill.

Regarding the components, this was one of the last years that mid-level Raleighs' used all European parts. I'm not sure about the rim size. By 1977, they were furnished with 700c wheels. That was the year they changed to using some Japanese parts (derailleurs and crankset/bb). If the wheels are 27 1/4", that does kinda s**k, but tires for them can still be gotten ahold of.

The frame is a 25 1/2". If the OP's pant's inseam is over 33" or 34", it'll likely fit. I know a long legged 6' tall rider who fits perfectly on their Raleigh Grand Prix 25 1/2" frame.

I would love to find one of these (in my size) at a garage sale for $20.

My 1972 Super Course has standard British threading in the bottom bracket. It now has an NOS Shimano UN-72 68x107 bb in there.

The fork, on the other hand had Raleigh proprietary threading (I forget if it was 24 tpi or 26 tpi - whatever, it was the one nobody uses anymore.) While the bottom cup was shot, the upper cup was fine. I recycled the upper cup, adjusting and lock nuts, put the bottom half of a cheap YST "beach cruiser" headset (30mm inside diameter and 27mm crown race.)

Faced the head tube and packed it with loose bearings and the sucker is as smooth as a Chris King.

And with the long reach brakes now available, conversion to 700c is a snap. I used a rear Dia Compe center pull with the longer arms on the front. Pads are several millimeters above bottom.

And 531, even in straight gauge, is fine stuff. My Raleigh rides like a dream.

Thank you for the info guys. Its all Euro parts as far as I can tell. The fram may be a little large for me (32-33 inseam) but always seem to ride a bigger bike so I'll give it a shot. What the hell, one more decent bike saved is better than one rusting away at the dump.

As far as the parts spec goes, it seems that everything on this bike may be saveable. Brakes are in good shape and seem to have enough meat on the calipers to Dremel them so I can gain enough reach for 700C wheels (yes, the ones on there are 27 inches). The Crankset is a thing of beauty requiring only a few minutes on a polishing wheel...its also surprisingly light. The wheelset is an aluminum 36h wheelset that is true and with no flatspots. I don't know if it'll take my weight, but I'll give it a shot. Another few minutes on the polishing wheel should make it good as new. The derailleurs and levers are all clamp-ons so no lugs to deal with. I think I'll have it powder-coated or painted green and white like original...you can tell it was a stunner when new.

The BB feels a little rough, I'll pull it apart this weekend and see how she looks. As far as the headset, Richard's story got me a little scared. There's a bike shop around here that seems to have a lot of OLD stuff on the shelves, so I'll see if maybe I can cobble something up.

Again, thanks for the encouragement. This one's got me pretty excited.

i wouldn't worry about the 27" wheels. you can still find good rubber in that size. you may need to special order it from your LBS or online, but it's good stuff. A lot of manufactures make 27" tires - Bontrager, Continental, Kenda, etc. better then dremeling a caliper! yikes!
Can't vouch for these sites, but they give you an idea of what you can get.
http://www.biketiresdirect.com/search_results.asp?cat=27
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=1745

That's a nice bike. I worked in a Raleigh shop in Michigan back then, and we considered the Super Course to be where the quality bikes started in the Raleigh line. A friend of mine has the same bike in red, purchased in '75, though I don't think he rides much anymore. And I think you can still get 27" tires, so why convert to 700?

Don't let Dave discourage you.

The words "gas pipe" and "531" don't belong in the same sentence. Reynolds 531 steel, a lightweight alloy, was used in fighter aircraft during the Second World War, specifically in the Royal Air Force's Supermarine Spitfire, arguably the most famous British aircraft of all time. I've wondered if, at the rear of it's Malcolm canopy, one might find a 'Guaranteed Built with Reynolds 531' decal. Kind of fun to think about as you're swooping down a steep hill.

............

By "gaspipe", I meant "straight gauge". However, since it's made of Reynolds 531, that at least means it's not seamed pipe, so perhaps the pejorative term "gaspipe" was a bit extreme. Most Reynolds 531 is butted, but this stuff ain't.

BTW, Reynolds 531 dates back to the 1920's, first used in bike frames. The steel itself isn't "lightweight", but it is 'workable' enough to be butted, which thereby will reduce weight without reducing strength. This frame, however, does not fall into that realm.

By WW2, the majority of most planes were made of aluminum, NOT steel. I'm not certain where in such a plane steel was used, but it couldn't be a very large portion of the whole plane. It is conceivable, though, that the framework for a fighter canopy could use steel, since in such a usage, the thinner elements of steel would be advantageous.

As far as recycling of such alloys is concerned, since Reynolds 531 uses a very specific alloy of steel, manganese and molybdenum, I would doubt that is would ever be a simple remelt of older steel. In fact, the 'specialty' alloys such as these are more likely to be made with fresh ore rather than with recycled steel. Most of the recycled steel is used for more mundane purposes.

BTW, Reynolds 531 dates back to the 1920's, first used in bike frames.
Uhh, Reynolds' first catalog of 531 tubes came out in 1936. A TI Reynolds "Top Tubes" publication from 1978 states, "It (531) was originally developed by Reynolds in 1935 especially for cycle frame tubes, and from that day to this has proved to be the most popular and successful cycle tube around." Reynolds website also states that 531 was introduced in 1935.

The term "gaspipe" generally refers to plain carbon steel like AISI 1020. In most contexts, alloys like AISI 4130 chromium-molybdenum and the proprietary manganese-molebdenum alloys like 531 with higher tensile strength and yield strength than plain carbon (Hi-Ten) steels are not referred to as "gaspipe".

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d7/k4drd/Bicycles/1936Reynolds531Catalog.jpg

exactly like this one - same green and white color, same size. Bought it in 1976 at either Yellow Jersey in Madison Wisc or at Turin Bicycles in Chicago (I forget). Rode it across the country in 1980. Repainted it a nice blue in 1981. Sold it sometime in the mid-80's.
A bit of history there. When bikes were actually made in England. Stronglight crank. Mine had a Huret rear derailleur. When getting a better bike meant getting Campy Record and an all-531 frame, not just the main tubes.

TV

.... The steel itself isn't "lightweight", but it is 'workable' enough to be butted, which thereby will reduce weight without reducing strength. This frame, however, does not fall into that realm.

You're right about this.

By WW2, the majority of most planes were made of aluminum, NOT steel.

You're right about this, too, and Duralumin was the name of one of those alloys. However, the wing ribs (on at least the early versions of the elliptical winged Spitfires.....Mk.I, maybe Mk. II as well), were made of Reynolds 531. I'll have to look up where I read about this (I certainly wasn't around at the time), but I'll turn it up.

As far as recycling of such alloys is concerned, since Reynolds 531 uses a very specific alloy of steel, manganese and molybdenum, I would doubt that is would ever be a simple remelt of older steel. In fact, the 'specialty' alloys such as these are more likely to be made with fresh ore rather than with recycled steel. Most of the recycled steel is used for more mundane purposes.

Of course, you're right again on this point. But I'm not sure what or who you're responding to. I looked over the thread, and I couldn't find anything anyone said regarding Reynolds 531 being made from recycled steel.