View Full Version : Road Bike levers on MTB? Cyclocross conversion


mwilcko2
12-31-2007, 06:41 AM
I have an old Litespeed MTB I would like to convert to a cyclocross setup. Im wondering if this will work:

- Replace MTB Stem and Handlebar with Road Bike stem and drop bar
- Use a set of road bike brake levers with my existing MTB caliper brakes (not v-brake)
- Use a set of SRAM shift lever on the flat part of the bar
- Install a set of inline brakes on the top of the bar next to the shift levers

Any compatibility issues here?

MTB components are old 8 spped shimano

Deering
12-31-2007, 09:44 AM
I did this with a 7-speed mtn bike. I am not sure about mtn bike caliper brakes, but if you mean cantilever brakes, they should be okay with the road brake levers.
If you feel that it is a bit crowded with the inline brake levers and the shifters, you may consider bar-end shifters. I am using these without any problems.

Deering

PigmyRacer
12-31-2007, 10:19 AM
I personally would go with STI's just for convenience but by all means do what you want. You might have some issues with setup. I tried using a v-brake/road lever once and had a little trouble getting the cable tension right.

DieselDan
12-31-2007, 04:34 PM
Shimano brifters are incompatible with MTB front derailers. The rear shifting is the same. You may want to consider bar end shifters, at least for the front.

Squidward
01-01-2008, 08:47 AM
The only problem with converting a mountain bike to drop bars is that mountain bikes typically have longer top tubes than road bikes. For example, I like a 52.5mm top tube on my road bikes (with a 100mm stem) but when you look up the top tube lengths of most hardtail mountain bikes that would fit me, you find top tube lengths of 22 inches or so, about 55mm. This forces you to use an extremely short stem to compensate or your riding position is way forward. This is because mountain bikes use straight bars that position the grips at a comfortable distance from the saddle while road bikes have to position the forward-end of the drops a similar distance to the saddle. Similarly, putting a straight bar onto a road bike means that you will have an unusually upright seating position if you do so.

Integrated brake shifters are a good way to go but their complicated mechanisms can potentially get gummed up with dirt and water while riding in the mud and crud. Bar-end shifters would probably be your best bet here.

When shopping for inline brake levers make sure that you purchase them for use with conventional brakes as opposed to V-brakes. I made this mistake and ended up with mushy brake feel when using them. Almost like modern-day 'safety levers' from back in the day!

MShaw
01-02-2008, 05:01 AM
As a note: road bar diameters and mtn bar diameters are different. You CAN make a mtn shifter fit if you get bore reamer tool and physically make the inside dia of the shifter mount road dia. 26.0 is the 'standard' IIRC

Now, having said that, Paul's Components makes a road dia Thumbies mount that'll work with any Shimano barcon. I'm running em on my mtn bike. Work great.

AFA brifters not shifting mtn front derailleurs: depends on whether you have to have 'perfect' or not. I get a little rub in a few gears (mostly due to wonky rings) from my XTR ft der/D/A brifter setup on my Crosshairs. Its not perfect, but it works well enough that I'm not planning on changing it any time soon.

M

cyclust
01-11-2008, 01:35 AM
I had a Cdale hardtail MTB that had been converted to a road bar set up. It had v brakes and STI brake/shift levers, so travel agents had to be used on the brakes, but other than that it was a simple and great set up. It was the perfect comuter/ hybrid/ cyclocross type bike!