Looking for brake lever recommendations for the style show in the photo. Something that is minimal and goes on the flat part of the bars.

I've been using this old Dia-Compe MX BMX brake lever that feel less than solid. Would like to upgrade. Don't use the brake much but its just comforting to have.

So does anyone else use this style of lever? What works well with caliper brakes?

I heard most of the cyclocross 'interceptor' brakes pulled too much cable to be used. Is this true?

There are several on the market. That one is a Soma. Tektro makes a cheap, nice one. Pauls has the best I've seen. Specialized has a cast unit that is nice (I have a set), and the new Interlock ones look pretty good. $25-$90 depending on make (Tektro to Pauls continuum

What is the Paul unit called? And what exactly does "inline" mean, and why is it for use with calipers?

What is the Paul unit called? And what exactly does "inline" mean, and why is it for use with calipers?

The Paul levers are called "Cross Levers." I just received a set yesterday. They are very good looking and very light, very well made. The attach to the bars near the stem, on the fat part of the bars. The are made to either work alone or spliced in the cable so that you can keep your main brake levers plus use these. They have a two position fulcrum pin that can be set for either road/canti brakes or v brakes (v brakes take more cable pull).

If I didn't want hood positions for climbing, too, I'd probably use the Paul levers alone on the fixed gear.

There are several on the market. That one is a Soma. Tektro makes a cheap, nice one. Pauls has the best I've seen. Specialized has a cast unit that is nice (I have a set), and the new Interlock ones look pretty good. $25-$90 depending on make (Tektro to Pauls continuum

now both have their own version. Under $30, I think.

TF

"Inline" refers to them being "in the line", ie, along the same cable as your regular brake levers. Same concept as inline barrel adjusters. Most work by pushing the cable housing foward as opposed to pulling on the cable itself. The cable end is usually fixed in the primary brake lever, so these push the housing to put on the pressure. Working alone, the cable end is still fixed on the outside of the lever. Pushing housing works great for calipers and v brakes,but only so-so for cantilevers (where a cable stop interupts the housing before it gets to the brake itself). I have one on my cross bike working a single radius canti on the front, and by playing with the leverage point it works out well, but not 100%.

"but only so-so for cantilevers (where a cable stop interupts the housing before it gets to the brake itself). I have one on my cross bike working a single radius canti on the front, and by playing with the leverage point it works out well, but not 100%."

Do you mean because of the sharp bend required or is there something else I haven't considered.

TF

hit up e-by for all sorts of levers. got these a bit ago for my ride. right side has the lever blade removed. may just take that side off anyhow though. normally i like aero levers, but i htink i'm really liking the look of this, esp with the carbon weave housing. gives a funky kinda flava.

think i paid around $20 shipped. lotsa' cross type levers on there, too.

thanks.
So these would not work? In the description it states that they are not inline.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3662967857&category=27949

also i've never ridden fixed so i don't know what i'll prefer but how do topmount levers work in practice over trad hood levers, considering if you want to brake you have to change hand positions rather quickly to do so?

also i've never ridden fixed so i don't know what i'll prefer but how do topmount levers work in practice over trad hood levers, considering if you want to brake you have to change hand positions rather quickly to do so?

Its just personal preference. If you think about any brake you generally have to move your hands somehow. Granted with traditional levers your hands are often right there but often you're up on top to which is why they're making these levers for the cyclocross folks. Guess I prefer that when I'm going for the brake (on for the times I know I can't stop by skidding etc) that my weight is moving back.

Also I often find myself riding city streets with my hands meeting at the stem and so having the lever right there works for city riding it seems.

They won't work, not because they are or are not inline, but because they are mountain bike levers. The clamp diameter is 25.4, whereas road bars are 26 mm (don't ask me how I discovered this!).

They won't work, not because they are or are not inline, but because they are mountain bike levers. The clamp diameter is 25.4, whereas road bars are 26 mm (don't ask me how I discovered this!).

You are right that they won’t work, but it’s even worse than you said. MTB bars are about 22mm (as are the Paul levers). The 25.4mm is the stem bulge.

TF

With cantis and regular levers, the housing is "fixed", butted at one end to the lever and the other to a cable stop. When the lever is pulled, the housing stays in place and the cable is pulled through it actuating the brake levers. With an inline lever, the housing is still "held" at these two points. The inline lever will push the housing foward first, then pull on the cable. Because the cable stop actually stops the housing the range of motion is limited. Look at the original pic listed at the top of this thread. On a road caliper, the housing doesn't pull through a cable stop, so when you pull the lever, you puch the housing against the caliper arm itself. Like I said, I did get pretty decent leverage, just not as good as I would have gotten with a linear pull brake (were, like a caliper, the housing runs directly to the brake). Hope that helps... its rather wordy and I don't have any good pics to help me out...