I have an SI SRM on my Six/13 and want power measurement for my Shimano equipped bikes. I’ve been considering the wireless for some time but waited for the dropout problem to be corrected. From what I’ve read here, and from the owners I’ve met, it appears to have been resolved.

I was about to order one when I had someone tell me that they have to tweak their r.der. when swapping the Powertap wheel for other wheels – training vs race wheels, etc.

Anyone experience this? (My main consideration for Powertap vs SRM is the ease of moving my power measurement around to different bikes without a hassle. I’d as soon swap the Dura-Ace SRM bike-to-bike as to have to tweak the r.der. limit screws and barrel adjuster every time I swap a Powertap for other wheels).

It would be great if all’s as simple as swapping wheels and having extra cradles.

I have an SI SRM on my Six/13 and want power measurement for my Shimano equipped bikes. I’ve been considering the wireless for some time but waited for the dropout problem to be corrected. From what I’ve read here, and from the owners I’ve met, it appears to have been resolved.

I was about to order one when I had someone tell me that they have to tweak their r.der. when swapping the Powertap wheel for other wheels – training vs race wheels, etc.

Anyone experience this? (My main consideration for Powertap vs SRM is the ease of moving my power measurement around to different bikes without a hassle. I’d as soon swap the Dura-Ace SRM bike-to-bike as to have to tweak the r.der. limit screws and barrel adjuster every time I swap a Powertap for other wheels).

It would be great if all’s as simple as swapping wheels and having extra cradles.
I've found that unless I use the same brand/model hub I often have to adjust the rear D when swapping wheels. Still, a quarter turn on the barrel adjuster is certainly a lot easier than changing a crankset. - TF

I only notice it if I am swapping wheels and the cassette is changing much, say going from something with an 12T to a 11T and the same if the big cog is changing much, but its minor and I wouldn't say I notice it with all rear wheels. I switch my powertap between 3 bikes and rarely ever make any changes other than a tweak on the adjusters once I am riding.

I have the wireless version and I haven't had any problems through 5000 or so miles in all kinds of weather. No trouble with dropouts, very repeatable and no problems that I can see with water getting in. About the only maintenance I have done is tightening the cones on the hub. Overall not only would I say its a reliable powermeter but all things considered it is the most reliable cycling computer I have had, no magnets, rubber bands, sensors or junk that come loose over time and so on.

It is very nice when it comes to swapping it around. The mounts are cheap ($9 or so) and even then I get by with only a couple of mounts. It only takes two zip ties to put one on, so for the bikes I don't always ride or rarely use the powertap on I just move the mount around.

On the devil's advocate side of things, I have started playing with an SRM as well. If you have a Dura Ace Professional using the external bearing BB, I have read that it's a pretty quick swap from bike to bike. I can't speak to that personally but I would think it would come down to how often you want to switch the powermeter around and cost. Though on the cost side of things since you already have a powercontrol the SRM cranks are at least a bit cheaper than a full system. But if you are thinking of say a wireless in an Open Pro then the only way SRM could compete would be going used of Ebay.

I never have to adjust my RD when swapping between a openpro/pt wheel w/ 11-25 and flashpoint w/ 12-25