I'm building up a new bike (Look 585) and tonight fitted the cables. The down tube cable guides are slotted, not threaded for cable adjusters like my other two road bikes.

I screwed the rear mech adjuster right in before tightening the cable bolt so plenty of adjustment there, but I have no way of adjusting the front mech cable short of loosening the pinch bolt and pulling more cable through. That said, I can't ever remember having to adjust the front mech cable tension after initial set up.

Does anyone think not having down tube adjusters will be a pain?

I think I have used my down tube cable adjusters once in the last 11 years. If the cable needs adjusting during a ride, which rarely to never happens, I stop and adjust at the derailleur.

I'm building up a new bike (Look 585) and tonight fitted the cables. The down tube cable guides are slotted, not threaded for cable adjusters like my other two road bikes.

I screwed the rear mech adjuster right in before tightening the cable bolt so plenty of adjustment there, but I have no way of adjusting the front mech cable short of loosening the pinch bolt and pulling more cable through. That said, I can't ever remember having to adjust the front mech cable tension after initial set up.

Does anyone think not having down tube adjusters will be a pain?SCOTT bikes are like this as well. You can get inline cable or Rocket/Shimnao adjudsters form Jagwire.

http://jagwireusa.com/images/largeImages/cha034.jpg
http://jagwireusa.com/images/largeImages/CHA046_lg.jpg

If you;re using Shimano, it's easy to add external adjuster right up at the brake/shift lever. With Campy's hidden cables, it's not so easy. The adjuster that have already been mentioned may work, but they look kind of funky on a Campy equipped bike.

I've got a 585 with Campy and found the it's really not all that difficult to setup the FD, although Shimano might not be as easy. The low limit screw position should first be set to produce no chain rube in the little ring and largest cog, without the cable attached. Then turn the low limit screw in (CW) about 1/2 turn, maybe more, pull the cable tight by grasping the end with pliers and tighten the cable clamp bolt. After the cable is clamped in place turn the low limit screw back to it's normal position (no chain rub in the little ring and largest cog). This will tension the cable. From there you just have to experiment to see how much the low limit screw might need to be turned to adequately tension the cable.

The inline adjusters work fine, but as mentioned, are a little trickier with Campy (less exposed cable housing to work with).

Even with no adjusters, should be ok afterwards, too, if initial setup is good. Poster above described method well.

Can always just trim with the shifter a little bit if cable is found to be loose while out on the road. No big deal, as long as there is enough tension to pull chain onto big ring.

Still, I'd install the inline adjusters.

I have Shimano, so I put an inline adjuster for the rear in front of the downtube adjuster. It's much easier to fiddle with while riding. Never really needed one for the front though.

C-40: You can kind of achieve the same effect by pulling out on the cage as you tighten the clamp loosely on the cable while you hold it tight. then you push on the cage until the cable slides through tight and then tighten the clamp fully.

C-40: You can kind of achieve the same effect by pulling out on the cage as you tighten the clamp loosely on the cable while you hold it tight. then you push on the cage until the cable slides through tight and then tighten the clamp fully.

My method is a lot more accurate and repeatable.

If you;re using Shimano, it's easy to add external adjuster right up at the brake/shift lever. With Campy's hidden cables, it's not so easy. The adjuster that have already been mentioned may work, but they look kind of funky on a Campy equipped bike.

I've got a 585 with Campy and found the it's really not all that difficult to setup the FD, although Shimano might not be as easy. The low limit screw position should first be set to produce no chain rube in the little ring and largest cog, without the cable attached. Then turn the low limit screw in (CW) about 1/2 turn, maybe more, pull the cable tight by grasping the end with pliers and tighten the cable clamp bolt. After the cable is clamped in place turn the low limit screw back to it's normal position (no chain rub in the little ring and largest cog). This will tension the cable. From there you just have to experiment to see how much the low limit screw might need to be turned to adequately tension the cable.


I'm using Campag - a mix of Record & Chorus. I set up the FD before reading your reply C-40. It seems to be fine as is, but that's a good tip and I'll certainly remember it when next setting up the FD, or replacing cables.

I used one of the Jagwire inline adjusters that DirtBoy posted. Works well and installs clean.

I used one of the Jagwire inline adjusters that DirtBoy posted. Works well and installs clean.



I used some cheap ?dimension inline cable adjusters with campy ergos on a first-year cross check (housing stops instead of dt shifter braze-ons).... never did use 'em once