I took the freehub off my Tune hub, and when I put it back on it doesn't fit into the drops outs very easily unless I crank down on the freehub nut, which causes a ton of drag on the freehub. What am I doing wrong?

There is a little washer on the inside of the freehub on top of that bearing, with another little washer that goes on the outside bearing. The nut has a rubber washer that goes inside it (i.e., around the axle) as the nut is screwed down on the freehub. Do I have something wrong here?

I tried to read Tune's overhaul directions, but I have no clue as to what they are referring to with W3, W5, etc.

Does it spin freely and cleanly off the bike?

Nope. There appears to be drag on it from somewhere, but I just cannot figure out where. I'm almost to the point where I am going to order a White Industries set of hubs and rebuild these wheels with them. I got a schematic and teardown and re-assembly instructions from the US Tune distributor and it appears as though I have everything in the right place. Man is this frustrating.

jeez, if you're just gonna toss it out in favor of a new WI you can send it to me instead... :thumbsup:

I'm going to try one last thing. I'm going to try to press the bearings just in case they might have come loose when I took the freehub off. By the time I am done with this hub, I'll be a Tune expert.

WI just sent me a schematic of their hubs, so I am going to look that over before I make any more decisions on what hubs to get. You know what they say about the grass being greener on the other side of the hill, sometimes it turns out to be brown.

I'm going to try one last thing. I'm going to try to press the bearings just in case they might have come loose when I took the freehub off. By the time I am done with this hub, I'll be a Tune expert. WI just sent me a schematic of their hubs, so I am going to look that over before I make any more decisions on what hubs to get. You know what they say about the grass being greener on the other side of the hill, sometimes it turns out to be brown.

sorry, not trying to knock you skillz (im sure they're abundant) but if it worked, you took it apart and now it doesnt work, id wager on user error. thats about as nice a hub as you can get, fully serviceable etc etc so id doubt if it was somehow beyond repair. why did you disassemble it in the first place?

As nice a hub as you can get is an opinion. If it is such a nice hub, it wouldn't be louder than a locomotive when it is freewheeling. I took the freehub off to try and lube it to cut down on the grease. I used some lithium grease and it made it quite, but the freehu didn't spin as freely as it used to. So, I took the freehub off again, cleaned out all the grease, and used some lightweight oil instead. Again, the freehub didn't spin as freely as it used to. Figured out that I was putting too much torque on the freehub with the end nut, but when the correct amount of torque is applied so that the freehub spins freely, the hub doesn't fit inside the dropouts.

Last night, I took the entire axle out of the thing to see exactly how it is made. About the only thing I can think of is that one of the bearings has come out some, and it needs to be pressed back in. I came to that conclusion last night, and the US Tune rep seconded me about it today. So, I'll be pressing the bearings later tonight.

By the way, if the bearings need to be taken out, the hub sometimes has to be heated because they are glued in place with sleeve Loctite and it is recommended that you use sleeve Loctite on new bearings when you replace them.

Why couldn't the hub be as quiet as my Campy hub? Why couldn't Campy make 20 and 24 hole Record hubs. Doesn't seem like it would be that hard to retool a machine to drill fewer holes.

Have you read the maintenance instructions from Tune? It took me forever to decipher them, and even then, I was still doing some trial and error in trying to get the axle out. There is a mention of W3 and W5 in the instructions, but there is no definition of what W3 and W5 are and there is no diagram.

Yes, the hubs look really nice and they are really light, but as far as customer service is concerned and serviceability is concerned, they are slightly lacking. Granted, the US rep was pretty quick to get back to me with answers and scehmatics, so I am pretty happy overall. Now, if I can just get the thing to work right tonight, I'll have a glass of wine to celebrate, and I rarely ever drink.

As nice a hub as you can get is an opinion. If it is such a nice hub, it wouldn't be louder than a locomotive when it is freewheeling.

the white industries sounds like a machine gun compared to that thing, just saying. some people consider a loud freewheel or freehub body to be indicative of a quality mechanism. there might be some truth to that, as usually this sound results from the precision tolerances created by CNC machining and 3 degree engagement pawl systems. point is, they all do it; king hubs are notoriously loud.

I took the freehub off.... So, I took the freehub off again... Last night, I took the entire axle out...

the more times you take it apart the higher the likelihood something will go wrong.

Yeah, and I learned the hard way that the longer you leave things alone, the sooner you are replacing them.

I let a new UT bearing set go 2,500 miles without taking the crank out, and I finally figured out that the cranks weren't spinning quite as easy as my other UT bikes. Turned out that the bearing had gone south from some dirt in it. Even if I had adhered to the Campy recommended maintenance schedule of 2,500 miles, the bearing would have been shot. During the off season, I took all the cranks off my UT bikes and cleaned and relubed the bearings. Essentially took everything apart on the bikes, cleaned them, and just bought an ultrasonic cleaner for the cassettes and chains and a parts washer for the rings. Everything looks shiny again.

Kind of damned if you do, and damned if you don't. I've learned my lesson with the Tune hubs though. Unless they are broke, I'm not going to try to fix anything.

ultrasonic cleaner - tell me more

They have started using them at bike shops to get things really clean. They are what jewelers use to clean jewelry. Essentially, you drop the part in the cleaner in a cleaning solution. Some people use water, some water with dish detergent like Palmolive, some use mineral spirits. Then you start the cleaner up, and sound waves cause something called "cavitation" that knocks the dirt off. For a chain I have been told that 30 seconds is sufficient. Maybe a little more for a cassette. I have seen before and after pics of parts that have been cleaned with an ultrasonic cleaner, and the difference is amazing.

Me, I'm too lazy to spend time cleaning my chain, and I like things to be really clean. So, I dropped some money on an ultrasonic cleaner. It should arrive in the next day or two. If I get a chance, I'll post some before and after pics of the chain and cassette.