I am starting to ride my bike outside again, and I noticed when i pick it up by the frame the steering column and fork drop down a little. When I set it back on the ground, this pushes it back up. Should there be any play here or do I need to tighten it up? Thanks for your help!!!

I am starting to ride my bike outside again, and I noticed when i pick it up by the frame the steering column and fork drop down a little. When I set it back on the ground, this pushes it back up. Should there be any play here or do I need to tighten it up? Thanks for your help!!!
There needs to be some play because the steerer needs to move freely, but from your description, I'd say it's excessive. If you're not mechanically inclined, let your LBS do the adjustment because overtightening could ruin the headset.

I am starting to ride my bike outside again, and I noticed when i pick it up by the frame the steering column and fork drop down a little. When I set it back on the ground, this pushes it back up. Should there be any play here or do I need to tighten it up? Thanks for your help!!!

too loose--is it a quill or threadless headset?

There needs to be some play because the steerer needs to move freely, but from your description, I'd say it's excessive. If you're not mechanically inclined, let your LBS do the adjustment because overtightening could ruin the headset.

You don't want it so tight that it binds and won't turn freely, but there should be NO play of the kind you describe. The fork should not clunk up and down that way at all. Your headset needs to be adjusted.

I believe it is threadless. The bike is a 2006 Trek 1500. I am pretty mechanically inclined with other things, but I still have a lot to learn about bikes. It is something I would probably like to fix myself.

I believe it is threadless. The bike is a 2006 Trek 1500. I am pretty mechanically inclined with other things, but I still have a lot to learn about bikes. It is something I would probably like to fix myself.

It's not a big deal.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65

JCavilia is right. You should tighten the top cap to provide enough preload that there is no play in the headset. If there's play after preloading and retightening the steerer clamp, check to make sure the compression ring is installed, a angled ring used to take out play.

JCavilia is right. You should tighten the top cap to provide enough preload that there is no play in the headset. If there's play after preloading and retightening the steerer clamp, check to make sure the compression ring is installed, a angled ring used to take out play.

You mention re-tightening the stem's steerer clamp, but you didn't mention loosening it. That's step one. I'm just mentioning it because it might be confusing to a newbie.

You don't want it so tight that it binds and won't turn freely, but there should be NO play of the kind you describe. The fork should not clunk up and down that way at all. Your headset needs to be adjusted.
No? Perhaps you're misreading what I wrote. Fact is, there does need to be some play or there WILL be binding. Additionally, I told the OP to get the headset adjusted because, by his description, there is excessive play.

No? Perhaps you're misreading what I wrote. Fact is, there does need to be some play or there WILL be binding. Additionally, I told the OP to get the headset adjusted because, by his description, there is excessive play.

PJ, I didn't understand what you said either. There should be NO play in the headset. The bearings will naturally load as you adjust the cap.

Procedure:
1) Loosen your stem to steerers bolts, but just to the point where the stem moves freely on the steerer tube.
2) Loosen your top cap.
3) You should, at this time, (really remove the steerer and fork and) inspect the steerer tube, head tube and headset top and bottom and compression ring for cleanliness and proper alignment.
4) Now with the front wheel installed and QR tightened, adjust your stem bolts so that they are just barely snug on the steerer tube. You should be able to move it side to side without the fork turning too (by holding the wheel). This is important, as you want to be able to pull the steerer tube up through the stem in the next step, and if too tight, that wont happen.
5) Tighten the top cap while you turn the fork side to side (straddle the front wheel), or if on a stand turn it with your hand. (Dont use the stem to do this)
6) Continue tightening until you JUST start to feel the fork ticking (binding) as you turn it. This is subtle and you may want someone to show you the first time.
7) Back off the cap nut about 1/8th of a full turn. You should no longer feel the subtle binding when turning the fork. (steps 6 and 7 may take a couple of tries)
8) Align your stem and torque down the stem bolts on the steerer tube.
9) Check your work: Place the bike on the ground and holding the front brake tight, rock the bike back and forth on the front wheel. You SHOULD NOT FEEL ANY PLAY WHATSOEVER. Next turn the bars from side to side, YOU SHOULD NOT FEEL ANY BINDING WHATSOEVER. If you feel a click, then you have a dead spot on your headset...relax this is what happens to them. You have a couple of options in that case: replace or readjust.

PS The Park tool link is worth checking too. They probably do a better job explaining and with pictures.

HTH
zac

No? Perhaps you're misreading what I wrote. Fact is, there does need to be some play or there WILL be binding. Additionally, I told the OP to get the headset adjusted because, by his description, there is excessive play.

I think people are getting confused with your definition of play. There should be no movement or "play" with a properly adjusted headset, but you shouldn't have it cranked so tight that it's binding. The difference between the 2 is sometimes small. If you have any movement once you've adjusted it then it's too loose.

Thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions. I will work on it this weekend and let you know how it goes, or if I screw it up I may be asking for more help!! :)

I think people are getting confused with your definition of play. There should be no movement or "play" with a properly adjusted headset, but you shouldn't have it cranked so tight that it's binding. The difference between the 2 is sometimes small. If you have any movement once you've adjusted it then it's too loose.
Ok, fair enough. I know what I meant, but maybe should have said free movement just short of any perceptible play. Howzat, better? :thumbsup:

Thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions. I will work on it this weekend and let you know how it goes, or if I screw it up I may be asking for more help!! :)


is the steerer tube carbon? when I put my first bike together, the steerer tube was cracked...which created a lot of play in the headset after the star nut was inserted....total headache as it required a completely new bike.

anyway, loosen everything, tighten the star bolt snugly (not overly tight...so the handle bars still turn easily side to side), then tighten down the stem bolts (make sure your bars are straight).
easy. no problem.

Ok, fair enough. I know what I meant, but maybe should have said free movement just short of any perceptible play. Howzat, better?

First you say there should be play, and now you say "just short of any perceptible play." So, which is it? You were wrong in your first statement, because you (apparently) know, and virtually everyone else knows that "play" does NOT mean that the bearings can still turn. "Play" means that there is movement between the fork and frame (or hub axle and hub) that can be felt/seen as some sort of klunk. Being wrong and then parsing your original statement doesn't make it right. Just saying. :)

If the steering tube is carbon it should not have a star nut in it. If, in fact, it does you'll have to replace the fork immediately.

If it is the original fork it should be aluminum.

First you say there should be play, and now you say "just short of any perceptible play." So, which is it? You were wrong in your first statement, because you (apparently) know, and virtually everyone else knows that "play" does NOT mean that the bearings can still turn. "Play" means that there is movement between the fork and frame (or hub axle and hub) that can be felt/seen as some sort of klunk. Being wrong and then parsing your original statement doesn't make it right. Just saying. :)
Not parsing, just clarifying. And your statement that "play" does NOT mean that the bearings can still turn is incorrect. There can be play and the bearings could still turn - and you (apparently) and I know that is true, so please clarify.

You go on to say that "Play" means that there is movement between the fork and frame (or hub axle and hub) that can be felt/seen as some sort of klunk. I've never seen a klunk, so that needs clarification as well.

For posterity we wouldn't want these misstatements to stand. Just saying. :D

Not parsing, just clarifying. And your statement that "play" does NOT mean that the bearings can still turn is incorrect. There can be play and the bearings could still turn - and you (apparently) and I know that is true, so please clarify.

You go on to say that "Play" means that there is movement between the fork and frame (or hub axle and hub) that can be felt/seen as some sort of klunk. I've never seen a klunk, so that needs clarification as well.

For posterity we wouldn't want these misstatements to stand. Just saying.

You're kidding, right?

You pulled this same nonsense in another thread, so it seems to be a habit you have. Make a mis-statement, "clarify" and then claim that your mis-statement is now correct because you clarified. Not a great way to establish your credibility. Just saying.

You're kidding, right?

You pulled this same nonsense in another thread, so it seems to be a habit you have. Make a mis-statement, "clarify" and then claim that your mis-statement is now correct because you clarified. Not a great way to establish your credibility. Just saying.
Not kidding at all. I made no misstatement, but did clarify a description some found unclear. After which, you posted dwelling on something that had already been resolved. Not the first time you've done so. Then you tell me, 'you pulled this same nonsense in another thread, so it seems to be a habit you have', which ironically, fits you to a 'T'!

Now, you made some misstatements in your previous post and have ignored my request for clarification, so I am reposting so that you may do so now - to establish your own credibility.

1. Your statement that "play" does NOT mean that the bearings can still turn is incorrect. There can be play and the bearings could still turn - and you (apparently) and I know that is true, so please clarify.

2. You go on to say that "Play" means that there is movement between the fork and frame (or hub axle and hub) that can be felt/seen as some sort of klunk. I've never seen a klunk, so that needs clarification as well.

Oh, FYI misstatements is a word, no need for hyphens. Ironic that you even get that wrong. Just saying.... people living in glass houses....

I just wanted to thank everyone for their help. I got it tightened up, it turns fine and there is no more up and down play.

If the steering tube is carbon it should not have a star nut in it. If, in fact, it does you'll have to replace the fork immediately.

Unless it's a Cannondale. I have a 2004 Cannondale carbon fork, carbon steerer, that uses a star nut.

Unless it's a Cannondale. I have a 2004 Cannondale carbon fork, carbon steerer, that uses a star nut.

You are doomed for sure. :p

Wait, he failed to mention if it was a suspension fork.

Maybe his elastomerz is broken.