How do you know how much tension to put in the wheel? I read that the author of the "bicycle wheel" book says to tighten until rim distorts then loosen tension. Is this method too extreme/ not the best way? could it permanently damage rim? Or do you tighten until you hear pinging?

Use a tensiometer. For most modern rims... especially the deeper ones... you will exceed the proper tension before the rim distorts. Pinging means you could have used a better lube on the nipples and threads

To assure your wheel is built to last it should be checked with a tensiometer. They tend to be quite pricey ($100ish) and then you still have to find out what tension to shoot for with your particular build. Take them to your local shop and ask if they can measure them for you. It shouldn't take 2 minutes and I can't imagine them charging you. Then you can take them home and adjust accordingly.

A cheaper option is to find a stock or aftermarket wheel that is as close as possible to what you have and is already built and tensioned. Squeeze a pair of spokes and compare the deflection to what you have. Even with a tensiometer there will be a range of recommended tensions so ballpark is acceptable. As far as recommended tension goes, this information is easily found for standard spokes. For other designs (bladed and super lightweight spokes and/or rims), it is best to check with the manufacturer of the spokes and rim and go with the lower option.

Finally, keep in mind that both sides of front wheels should be measured and only the drive side of the rear wheel. The non-drive side only needs to be tight enough to provide the proper dish regardless of tension reading.

Good luck! :thumbsup:

How do you know how much tension to put in the wheel? I read that the author of the "bicycle wheel" book says to tighten until rim distorts then loosen tension. Is this method too extreme/ not the best way? could it permanently damage rim? Or do you tighten until you hear pinging?
Good question. Lots of us (me especially) gauge spoke tension by feel and experience. For five decades I've built wheels for myself and friends and have never used a tensiometer and have never suffered from the lack of one.

This doesn't help you or answer your question but maybe it does. My first wheels (1962) didn't fall apart because of improper tension and I doubt your will too. If you look at the specs of acceptable spoke tension you will see that it's not an absolute number but a spread of numbers. This is born out by the fact that in a dished rear wheel, the difference in tensions between drive and non-drive sides is quite large.

Normally, spokes break from fatigue caused by the load/unload cycles of a poorly tensioned wheel. In a high tension wheel the cycle is low and the high cycle of a low-tension wheel leads to fatigue. But the lower (relative) tension of the non-drive side of a rear wheel rarely leads to fatigue related failure. And I guess that's because both the tensions of the DS and the NDS are within the acceptable limits of spoke tensions.

So Steel, Jobst's pretzeling of a wheel to gauge tension seems a bit extreme to me and I've always stopped before that point was reached. So, maybe do as I advise all those who I motivate to build wheels, (http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm) and that is "Keep going.......until you have a "fair amount" of tension in the wheels." You'll know when you reach that point.

Sure, absolute tension is more crucial with the newer low-count spoke wheels. With 36 spoke wheels you can get away with more than you can with 20 spoke (or less) wheels.

Sure, absolute tension is more crucial with the newer low-count spoke wheels. With 36 spoke wheels you can get away with more than you can with 20 spoke (or less) wheels.

Very true... in the sense that most 36 spoke wheels have a much higher margin of strength compared to the loads it will see. But if you wanted to build a 36h wheel for a sumo wrestler you'd need to consider which tension is best. With any wheel that you want to be truly optimized in terms strength and weight I think it is important to get the tension in a narrow band. Too low and spokes will go slack at a lower load than they otherwise would... too high and the biggest issue is usually cracking of the rim.