Are the threads on a fixed gear wheel the same as for a freewheel? ie. Can I take the fixed cog and lockring off and screw on a freewheel?

Are the threads on a fixed gear wheel the same as for a freewheel? ie. Can I take the fixed cog and lockring off and screw on a freewheel?

yep..threading is the same...no problem

So the threads are the same. but is enough threading there to screw a freewheel on?

Thanks for the reply.

So the threads are the same. but is enough threading there to screw a freewheel on?

Thanks for the reply.


more than enough...been there...done that...many times...

This may be stating the obvious, but is the opposite true? Can you use a fixed cog and lockring on a freewheel hub?

Can I use a single-speed freewheel hub for both freewheel and fixed-gear riding by simply changing the cog option - or do I need to get a flip/flop hub?

Thanks

This may be stating the obvious, but is the opposite true? Can you use a fixed cog and lockring on a freewheel hub?

Can I use a single-speed freewheel hub for both freewheel and fixed-gear riding by simply changing the cog option - or do I need to get a flip/flop hub?

Thanks

Sure, a lot of people run this set up. It is a simple and very popular conversion. This type of hub is also known at a 'suicide hub' as there is a good chance the cog will spin off from backpedal pressure, with or without the BB lockring. (this BB lockring screws on in the same direction as the cog so it's really not much of a lockring at all). You must run a brake with this set up, BTW.
A true fixed hub uses a reverse threaded lockring. (two separate threads on the fixed side, one for the cog, and another for the lockring)

My fixie has a D/A fixed/fixed flip flop hub. I bought it new/used from a guy with buyer's remorse at a great price. He put a track cog on one side and a freewheel on the other. The result was a freewheel that was way out of alignment when the wheel was flipped.

My knowledge of these matters is limited (Dave has forgotten more about fixies than I'll ever know) but I suggest you be careful to avoid my circumstance (or perhaps Dave will know exactly what went wrong and be able to steer you away.)

BTW I didn't really care about not being able to use a freewheel, it just meant I had to drive 80 miles to the shop that built it to get them to remove the useless freewheel.

Yes, there is a slight difference in chain line between a track cog and a freewheel cog.
That difference, in most cases, will be there whether you mount that freewheel cog on a the freewheel side or the fixed side of a hub. Ideally, the freewheel side of a hub should cut in deeper and closer to the flange to keep the chain line as close as possible to match the fixed cog side.

My fixie has a D/A fixed/fixed flip flop hub. I bought it new/used from a guy with buyer's remorse at a great price. He put a track cog on one side and a freewheel on the other. The result was a freewheel that was way out of alignment when the wheel was flipped.

My knowledge of these matters is limited (Dave has forgotten more about fixies than I'll ever know) but I suggest you be careful to avoid my circumstance (or perhaps Dave will know exactly what went wrong and be able to steer you away.)

BTW I didn't really care about not being able to use a freewheel, it just meant I had to drive 80 miles to the shop that built it to get them to remove the useless freewheel.


Ha...you give me way more credit than I deserve

The only issue I had was with a DA low flange hub and a freewheel. I had to use a 1mm spacer to keep the freewheel from rubbing the spoke ends...Even with the spacer, I still had enough threads for the freewheel on the fixed side...This was only with the low flange DA hub...

my problem is with my single-sided high flange da track hubs - the freewheel is too close to the center of the hub. I guess I'll use a spacer. What type of spacer? Any other options?

my problem is with my single-sided high flange da track hubs - the freewheel is too close to the center of the hub. I guess I'll use a spacer. What type of spacer? Any other options?
Is this related to the chain line problem you're experiencing in your other thread?
If so, have you tried adjusting the crankset?