A search of the review (singular) and forums didn't provide much info on the Rival crankset. I have a Cannondale EX crankset on an Ultegra bottom bracket mounted to my Specialized S-Works E5 Tarmac. Thinking of swapping out the crankset for the Rival 39/53.

How has the Rival crankset held up? Any issues as far as shifting, bearings, etc. Is the finish acceptable?

Thanks in advance.

Sometimes, when I go from the large to small ring, the 10-speed chain falls between the two rings and just slides along there. At first, I thought my freehub was dying, but realized that the rings on this 9-speed crankset were spaced too wide.

It's only happened a half-dozen times, and never in a situation that would be dangerous. But I figure I might as well have my bike set up right.

Try reversing the inner chainring. Chainrings are often asymmetric this way and it may increase or decrease the gap. Don't know about the tooth pattern, but usually inner chainring tooth patterns are symmetric. I've successfully used this to alter chainline on a single speed, but it's a simple experiment to try on a double.

If anyone with a bit more knowledge considers this dangerous, please post.

A lot of bikers have spare parts bins full of chainrings. Their offsets tend to vary, you could try a few (outer and inner) and you might find one with a smaller offset that would solve your problem. Then either keep that chainring or buy a new one of that make.

btw, SRAM Rival cranksets have a very good rep. Represent good bang-per-buck and are available in a wide range of crank lengths. Several 'cross pros use them without problems.

[QUOTE=flanman]Try reversing the inner chainring.QUOTE]

Typically, this won't work that great. Both parts of the chainring bolts have a flange that is made to fit in the recess in the chainring. If you flip the chainring, then that bolt end will stick out from the surface of the ring. This means 1-2 threads less engagement in the bolt hand a place where you can snag things. It might even result in the inner part of the nut hitting the chain stay if you have close clearance.

[QUOTE=flanman]Try reversing the inner chainring.QUOTE]

Typically, this won't work that great. Both parts of the chainring bolts have a flange that is made to fit in the recess in the chainring. If you flip the chainring, then that bolt end will stick out from the surface of the ring. This means 1-2 threads less engagement in the bolt hand a place where you can snag things. It might even result in the inner part of the nut hitting the chain stay if you have close clearance.

I haven't found this to be a problem. 1-2 threads lost doesn't make much of a difference. Doesn't look quite as nice. I would recommend using steel chainring bolts though. Al bolts loosen way easier and should be checked frequently.

i just got a full rival roubaix and im loving the group, ive had no complaints after 100 miles or so, and its been shifting great... but if i were you i would get the sram gxp ceramic bb instead of the rival one mainly because it would be even more durable, and you would never have to worry about bearing issues plus its ano red so it looks cool too

The Rival crank is the same as the Truvativ Rouler crank. You may find more reviews that way.
Its a decent crankset. But better can be found for the price. I think the Race Face compact crank is nicer in terms of overall appearance of quality and the chainring profiles.. The Shimano Ultegra is pretty much impossible to beat for value as cranks go.
If crisp front shifting is what you are after its pretty much impossible to beat Shimano rings for front shifting.