before, with my other set of dura ace hubs and shimano freewheel it was a bit loud but now with another 28 hole dura ace hub (singlesided) it's way off and really loud. what to do? either space it? is there enough room for the freewheel and what to use for a spacer? or redish the wheel and move the axle over? sounds more secure but a pain.

So you're running a freewheel/single speed cog on a Dura Ace track hub? What cranks are you running?
Photos would be nice if you can post them.

before, with my other set of dura ace hubs and shimano freewheel it was a bit loud but now with another 28 hole dura ace hub (singlesided) it's way off and really loud. what to do? either space it? is there enough room for the freewheel and what to use for a spacer? or redish the wheel and move the axle over? sounds more secure but a pain.

Throwing you wheel out of dish is NOT the solution. The handling will greatly be affected by this operation. If the wheel is correctly dished, then spacers is the way to go. If it's out of dish, redish it and then throw in spacers if needed.

-which way is it off? i.e., which way does the freewheel need to be moved to get a good chainline?

-if it needs to move to the right, but not too much, a spacer can do it.

-if it needs to move too much for a spacer to be the solution (i.e., you wouldn't have enough threads left to be secure), or if it needs to move to the left, you have to re-space the axle (to get the chainline right), and then re-dish the wheel (to get the rim back to center).

-it MAY be simpler to attack the problem at the crank end, depending on your setup.

before, with my other set of dura ace hubs and shimano freewheel it was a bit loud but now with another 28 hole dura ace hub (singlesided) it's way off and really loud. what to do? either space it? is there enough room for the freewheel and what to use for a spacer? or redish the wheel and move the axle over? sounds more secure but a pain.

I used a 1mm spacer on a DA hub and a freewheel.. I wouldn't be comfortable with a wider spacer since there wouldn't be enough threads left for the freewheel..

That being said,something doesn't sound right. I've had minor issues with a freewheel but not too bad...What cranks/BB are you using?

As far as chain lines go my White Industires freewheel cog pushes it out to about 45mm while my chainring sits about 42-43mm. I have no problem running that.

with a D/A track hub (flip/flop). The flop side had a freewheel which did not line up with the chainring. I have been given 2 explanations and I don't know if either was correct. (1) wrong kind of freewheel (too wide so its cog was too far outboard) and (2) hub not built to accept a freewheel.

My solution was to install a second fixed cog. That's not what you seem to want. Possibly you have the wrong kind of freewheel? Sorry I can't be more specific or definitive.

hopefully this will get to all of you. thanks for your help

I've got the cannondale capo (red and white) w/ tuvativ omnium track cranks w/outboard bearings and the dura ace high flange hubs with a shimano freewheel and some 1/8inch bmx chain.

strange that with this new wheel it's so much worse and louder. it's now a 28 hole and the other was 32 and they were both single-sided. silly but I wanted 28 with fancy spokes cause this is a pimpin ride.
so the freewheel needs to be further away from the center of the hub and the cranks need to be closer to the bb for it to line-up. I could use a spacer I guess. What would I use if I take that route and is it safe (only one-sided wheel I dont want to ruin it, that would be tragic)?
After thinking about respacing the hub and redishing the wheel I think it wouldn't work. Right? I only have the two cone nuts on each side of the hub and if I moved the axle it would still have the hub centered, the axle would be off center only. the hub is not moveable either which way. Unless I removed one of what I see as essential cone nuts.

What about a different freewheel? Any that have the teeth further from the hub? White industries? their two sets of teeth on one freewheel could help but I'd rather have one set of teeth if I can.
It's way too loud and I wont ride it. It just looks nice and thats all.

Exactly how far out is your chainring?

dont know. assuming it's not much what would you recommend? if it's a lot? I guess spacers are what I have to do. What kind of spacers? I'll search on here.

After thinking about respacing the hub and redishing the wheel I think it wouldn't work. Right? I only have the two cone nuts on each side of the hub and if I moved the axle it would still have the hub centered, the axle would be off center only. the hub is not moveable either which way. Unless I removed one of what I see as essential cone nuts.

There should be on both sides, in addition to the cones, some spacers, and of course locknuts. When you re-space, you move the cones' position on the axle, and change the number of spacers on each side. This moves the hub with respect to the axle, and therefore with respect to the dropouts.

dont know. assuming it's not much what would you recommend?
....then which crankset are you using??

turns out shimano and truvativ have different chainlines. du. I should've known. I've respaced the hub by just moving one washer to the other side, checked it with a no-longer-in-use tool that checks chainline and it came out very well. It still is almost as loud! what the fungle. the freewheel is 3/16 and the chain is 1/8th but I've done that and it wasn't nearly this bad. I can feel each cog. I can also feel it sucking my energy.
beautiful and crappy so far.

If it is still noisy, I hate to say it, but your chainline can't be right.

tell us about your crankset...

If you can feel each tooth, your chain is too tight.
If it's sucking your energy, your chain is too tight.

I have one bike where the chain line is off by 5mm. Still runs quiet as ever...
Give your chain some slack.

I've had the chainline checked by two people using a tool that connects to the freewheel and then a bar drops along the top of the front chainring and both people said it came out well. They didn't give me a distance. On a recommendation I've since changed chains to a KMC something SL with a white finish made of Teflon (I think) and it's much quieter. But I can't stand the white so I'm going to get the same chain in plain metal. Any other chains you know of that are quite. I was told that the freewheel being 3/16ths as apposed to 1/8 and matching with the chain is not something that would cause noise. what do you think?

I've had many track bikes and the chain is not too tight.
thanks for your help

Throwing you wheel out of dish is NOT the solution. The handling will greatly be affected by this operation.

Hmm... I'm hella late to the party. While I agree with you that it's not the solution, I think the OP was proposing redishing the wheel to accommodate a respaced axle. That wouldn't do anything perceptible to the handling. (Or anything, really.) As long as the rim is centered between the outer locknuts on the axle, it is in dish, regardless of whether you have, say, 5 mm of spacers on one side and 15 on the other, or 10 on both sides. See JCavilia's post below, too.

Is your freewheel actually 3/16" not 3/32" or 1/8"? I know ACS makes the "Fat" at 3/16" and it requires a 3/16" chain. A 1/8" chain will bind on that, just as a 3/32" (6-7-8 speed) chain will bind on a 1/8" freewheel or cog.

3/32nd chain. it's smooth now. thanks.