I'm having a rear wheel built at my LBS using a Surly 130mm hub and Velocity Deep V rim for $200. And this doesn't include a cog and lockring.

Does that seem reasonable? Seems high to me.

You can buy an entire DeepV/Formula hub wheelset for under $200 if I'm not mistaken. Formulas come with longish axles so they can be spaced out to 130mm easily using a couple of spacers.

Hub is seventy, rim is about fifty. That leaves eighty for spokes, nipples and build. Not a great price but not over the top for a hand built wheel. There are certainly better deals out there but you do have the advantage of the shop there for service.

I bought a hand built wheel from a reputable bike shop on the Internet and within a week I broke a spoke which isn't the biggest deal in the world but on a brand new single speed wheel with zero dish, this is something I didn't expect. The spoke broke on the freewheel side of an ENO hub and I didn't have the special freewheel remover to take it off to replace the spoke. Had to take it to a shop to have the freewheel removed, and then the spoke replaced and the wheel re-trued. This was twenty two dollars. Had this shop built the wheel, they would have fixed it for free. Sometimes local is better but only you can decide that.

too much... unless those are lime green deep v's

too much... unless those are lime green deep v's

lol, a certain red and green cannondale comes to mind

Ok so I coughed up and paid for a Deep V/Formula wheelset, 250 bucks. So I guess it was too much.

Only thing that makes me nervous is, when I took it to one LBS they told me it was spaced 125-126 mm and were going to build the wheel accordingly.

I go to another bike shop (where they are a bit more friendly) to ask about spacing the wheelset I have and, while I'm there, I use their calipers to measure the spacing betweem the dropouts. The calipers read 130 mm on the dot.

But since its mm, where do you measure from? The inside or outside of the dropouts? I probably should have asked this before I ordered wheels spaced at 130mm but I don't understand how the other LBS got a measurement of 125-126. Even at the closest point it was over 126. Am i supposed to account for the cog and lockring ? That doesn't make sense in my mind.

Anyways, I'm nervous that I got wheels spaced wrong for the frame but it isn't too late to change my order. Should I stick with my gut and get the 130mm spacing. Will it be a big ordeal getting these wheels to fit if the spacing is off?

Ok so I coughed up and paid for a Deep V/Formula wheelset, 250 bucks. So I guess it was too much.

Only thing that makes me nervous is, when I took it to one LBS they told me it was spaced 125-126 mm and were going to build the wheel accordingly.

I go to another bike shop (where they are a bit more friendly) to ask about spacing the wheelset I have and, while I'm there, I use their calipers to measure the spacing betweem the dropouts. The calipers read 130 mm on the dot.

But since its mm, where do you measure from? The inside or outside of the dropouts? I probably should have asked this before I ordered wheels spaced at 130mm but I don't understand how the other LBS got a measurement of 125-126. Even at the closest point it was over 126. Am i supposed to account for the cog and lockring ? That doesn't make sense in my mind.

Anyways, I'm nervous that I got wheels spaced wrong for the frame but it isn't too late to change my order. Should I stick with my gut and get the 130mm spacing. Will it be a big ordeal getting these wheels to fit if the spacing is off?

126mm spacing is unusual and not used very often anymore, If this is a newer bike I doubt it is 126mm so perhaps they are measuring it wrong.

Spacing will be fine. Most Nishiki's were 126mm but will spread just fine to 130mm.

The extra money spent on a wheelset that you know was properly hand built and tensioned is well worth it in the long run.

too much... unless those are lime green deep v's

and you have a florescent pink frame. :D

That hub generally comes spaced out at 120mm stock, and 130mm when requested.
You can add a couple of spacers between the cone and locknuts and they can be set for 126, 130.....whatever you want. It comes with a long axle. It's an easy, inexpensive, 5 minute job at most.

I suggest you take that wheel and mount it to see if it's a perfect fit or if it requires spacers on either side.

"Standard" road spacing is 130mm (several road/fg bikes use this spacing and 130mm fg hubs are available.)

"Old standard" road spacing is 126 and no new hubs are built for this spacing. When bikes like these are converted to f/g, you either push the stays together to bend them a little and reduce the spacing or pad out the axle with washers/spacers.

"Standard" track spacing is 120mm (essentially all track bikes and some road/fg bikes are built with 120mm spacing; lots of 120mm fg hubs are available.)

If you're uncertain of your measurement, call the shop and tell them what frame you have and ask if they know the spacing, bring them the frame or remeasure yourself.

Well that's a relief. Thanks. Sounds like I will be just fine even though i think I might be building a monster that is going to lose me some friends on this forum even if it won't be pink and lime colored. :D

I'll post pics when it's done.

:idea: Umm, Can anyone recommend a brake that will reach the brake surface of the 700c wheel? The brakes that were on it don't match up correctly when I put a 700c on the front as it is.

Or I can ride brakeless...but I'd rather not.

:idea: Umm, Can anyone recommend a brake that will reach the brake surface of the 700c wheel? The brakes that were on it don't match up correctly when I put a 700c on the front as it is.

Or I can ride brakeless...but I'd rather not.

What kind of frame/fork?

A "Long Reach" caliper brake will do it. Shimano makes a very nice one. Tektro makes a more affordable one. Check the specs carefully; they give the range of the distance between the brake fixing bolt and where the pad may be mounted (the reach). You need to measure your fork/frame to confirm that the brake will reach.

Schwinn World Sport, not sure of the year but it came with 27 1/4" tires. The original brakes hit the brake surface of the 700c tire but are just a little high.

Ok, so i got my new wheels spaced to 130mm and with some minor cold setting they fit in just fine. My only problem is that when the axle is all the way back in the dropouts the wheel doesn't sit straight.

I figure I can set the wheel straight since it won't be all the way back in the dropout anyways but I'm just wondering if this or anything else will be a problem?

Ok, so i got my new wheels spaced to 130mm and with some minor cold setting they fit in just fine. My only problem is that when the axle is all the way back in the dropouts the wheel doesn't sit straight.

I figure I can set the wheel straight since it won't be all the way back in the dropout anyways but I'm just wondering if this or anything else will be a problem?

If that's the case, then I'm guessing the cold setting didn't go "just fine." Seems like they bent one side more than the other in respacing it, and that's why the wheel doesn't sit straight.

If that's the case, then I'm guessing the cold setting didn't go "just fine." Seems like they bent one side more than the other in respacing it, and that's why the wheel doesn't sit straight.

Maybe, but we are talking about just a couple mm and surely this has been overcome(if it even needs to be) before. It's not like cold setting is an exact science. My reasoning was, well, it's a steel frame, it will be ok and if it slips every once in a while then that's the pains of building up an old road frame.

I'm just wondering if anyone else has had this issue and if they did anything other than lining up the wheel and getting it good and tight on there. Seems like, if I can get the wheel straight, then I shouldn't have a problem any more so than any other fixie on semi-horizontal dropouts.