I'm currently in the market for a new bike and I have visited my LBS to look at some of the models. I'm looking to spend in the $3,000 range and hope to get an Italian frame (Alum with carbon rear and fork). I know my frame material selection will spark WWIII, but that is not the reason for this thread. I am looking to spend the least amount of money while getting the bike I want (obviously!), but I also want a perfect fit. My LBS is very serious about fitting, which is good; but is also higher in price than internet stores, such GHV and competitivecyclist, which is bad. How can I purchase a road bike online while still getting the perfect fit? I know there are fit calculators, but how accurate are they if these internet sites know nothing about me except some random measurements? I'm more concerned about the component fit, because I'll have an idea of the frame size that I need, because I am going to have a frame fitting. I think I am going to get the Campy Centaur component kit, but how do I know what size crankset, bb, wheels, etc. to get? Thanks in advance for any advice, suggestions.

From your questions I take it you're a complete newbie. Try reading the fit info at www.coloradocyclist.com. It covers all of the basics.

The problem for a new rider, is that a normal fit for an experienced rider is not likely to be comfortable for a new rider. As you gain fitness and become used to the road bike riding position, the trend is to lower the bars and increase the stem length a bit. If you never ride the type of mileage to become more fit, then you'll be happier with higher handlebars and less stem length than a more serious rider.

If you get a fitting, it should be done before you buy a bike. The fitter should be able to provide recommendations on crank length, total reach (top tube length plus stem length)and handlebar width. One of the problems that no fitter can solve is determining the optimum saddle fore/aft position. Most likely, the fitter will position you in the "neutral" knee position as shown on the colorado cyclist website. This is a fine place to start, but many riders prefer a further back position to enhance the ability to apply torque to the cranks. If the saddle is moved back, then a shorter stem should be installed to restore the reach. Finding the optimum saddle fore/aft position can take a lot of time and experimentation. A lot of riders never experiment and just ride in the "neutral" knee position.

As others noted, it's not wise to spend $3000 on a bike if you don't know your fit dimensions. A custom is generally NOT needed to get a perfect fit. A custom may have the exact stem length the customer desires and the saddle might be perfectly centered on the seatpost, but it won't necessarily fit any different than a stock frame. I've seen a lot of picutres of custom bikes that looked pretty goofy after the owner adjusted the saddle, bars and stem to be comfortable on the bike.

How can I purchase a road bike online while still getting the perfect fit?

Short answer: "Perfect" fit means custom frame, and even then, like everything else in life, "perfect" is rarely attainable and definitely subjective.

Workable solution: Go to your LBS and pay for a fitting. Most reputable shops will then credit this toward a bike should you decide to purchase from them. I paid my LBS $40 for a fitting. Armed with that knowledge, I was able to put together a package with GVH (53cm C-C seat tube,120mm stem, 170mm crank, etc) that could be tweaked into a comfortable fit in my garage.

Returning to cycling after a long hiatus, this bike has proven comfortable on the flats, hoods or drops (although my tush still needs conditioning ;) ) and will get me through the first couple of years, as I "refine" my style and approach, as well as my cycling "fitness" (which is different from my overall fitness). Then, if I'm still hooked, I'll build up a custom frame.

if you don't know your fit numbers... don't spend $3000 on a bike. that's a mistake imho. my first road bike was a 4th hand heavy old roadster.. i paid $400 and rode it like mad for 6 months. by then, i knew something about my fit.. then i bought a nice 2nd hand italian racing bike which i'm still on.. my saddle has raised 1/2 inch, the stem is still in the same place and i've swapped 3 bars.
i still don't know what my exact fit is cause there isn't such thing: it changes. it's dynamic .
as for alu/ carbon/ steel... i really don't care much. a well designed bike by someone with lots of clue will ridee welll..

I second the notion that bicycle fit is a dynamic process that changes as you become a more experienced rider. Sure some things like frame size will probably remain the same, but the dimensions related to your contact points, ie saddle, bars, stem will probably change. When I first started roadbiking from a background on mountain bikes, I used the online fit calculator at wrenchscience.com to fit myself. Bear in mind the calculations from this site are regarded as on the short end, giving compact dimensions best suited for racing bikes. Based on these numbers I ordered the frame, parts, etc online and assembled them. When I first rode the bike, I felt too stretched out. I couldn't keep my hands on the hoods for very long. So I switched out the stem to a shorter one. The saddle was also shifted very forward. After riding for over a year, I started to noticed I felt cramped. I scooted the saddle back, and switched out the stem to the original length. Now things feel pretty good, though I could probably move the saddle back even more. My point is the fit calculators give you the numbers of where you should generally be, not necessarily where you'll start.

I'm currently in the market for a new bike and I have visited my LBS to look at some of the models. I'm looking to spend in the $3,000 range and hope to get an Italian frame (Alum with carbon rear and fork). I am looking to spend the least amount of money while getting the bike I want (obviously!), but I also want a perfect fit. My LBS is very serious about fitting, which is good; but is also higher in price than internet stores, such GHV and competitivecyclist, which is bad. wheels, etc. to get? Thanks in advance for any advice, suggestions.

I have to assume that this is not your first bike, because a first-timer wouldn't even dream of laying out $3000 for a bike without a motor; and since you're doing so, my personal opinion would be to go with the LBS....If the difference is less than $500. If more, tell the LBS that they will have to deal with you and not stick to the MSRP. Obviously the LBS is fit-conscious, and should be easy to make later adjustments (i.e. stem length, crank length changeouts, maybe even the bar style/width, etc.), plus you'll probably get future discounts, free fixes, etc.....The internet guys will tell you that you got what you ordered and you're "S.O.L." if it doesn't fit you, or charge you a re-stocking fee, etc.

The money difference is important now, but if you're not fitted properly you'll wind up with a bike that you hate to ride....

Here's some info on Crank lengths:
http://www.cptips.com/crnklth.htm
http://www.nettally.com/palmk/Crankset.html
Keep in mind, that we're all different and what is true for Biker A's fit is not necessarily true for Biker B.....and the top-tube dimension is AS important as the frame size...

Good luck !!

I agree with Coonass. If your LBS is indeed a top-flight one, and they are willing to patiently, endlessly switch out stuff for you (after engaging you in debate concerning your choices, of course), it's worth spending more at the LBS.

[QUOTE=Triodelover]Workable solution: Go to your LBS and pay for a fitting. Most reputable shops will then credit this toward a bike should you decide to purchase from them. I paid my LBS $40 for a fitting. Armed with that knowledge, I was able to put together a package with GVH (53cm C-C seat tube,120mm stem, 170mm crank, etc) that could be tweaked into a comfortable fit in my garage.

QUOTE]

Pay the bike shop for a fitting...it will be the best investment you'll make in your cycling sojourn.

I agree with Coonass. If your LBS is indeed a top-flight one, and they are willing to patiently, endlessly switch out stuff for you (after engaging you in debate concerning your choices, of course), it's worth spending more at the LBS.

the shop has something you really want to spend $3k on. That isn't always the case. Some folks would love to buy an Audi, but the only dealerships in town are Ford, Chevy and Chrysler.