Is there a trick to getting the rear wheel back on and the chain the appropriate tightness? For the the life of me I can't seem to get it tight enough. Anyone have a foolproof technique?

I put it in my work stand, stand behind it, and with my left arm, pull it toward me as tight as I can get it. Tighten the drive side 1st, then, making sure the wheel is centered, tighten the other side. I'll go back and tighten both sides again, just to be sure.

A trick I've learned is to intentionally cock the wheel towards the drive side, tighten the drive side bolt partially, straighten the wheel (which will add tension to the chain) and tighten the other bolt, then tighten the drive side fully...works great w/ a little practice.



Is there a trick to getting the rear wheel back on and the chain the appropriate tightness? For the the life of me I can't seem to get it tight enough. Anyone have a foolproof technique?

You can make the whole thing virtually idiot proof by just getting a set of chain tugs. Makes chain tension/wheel alignment a science instead of an art. It assumes, however, that you're using track ends. If you're not, refer to previous posts for the art of the install.

A trick I've learned is to intentionally cock the wheel towards the drive side, tighten the drive side bolt partially, straighten the wheel (which will add tension to the chain) and tighten the other bolt, then tighten the drive side fully...works great w/ a little practice.

me too

i used the aforementioned technique with a Dura-ace hub--hollow axle..
pushing on the rim nice and hard exerted enough pressure to bend the axle.

it was a really good feeling... i just wanted to say over and over, " wow, that's unexpected"

also, keep in mind that chain tension will vary throughout the rotation of the chainwheel
so it's gonna have tight and loose spots..

i used the aforementioned technique with a Dura-ace hub--hollow axle..
pushing on the rim nice and hard exerted enough pressure to bend the axle.

it was a really good feeling... i just wanted to say over and over, " wow, that's unexpected"

also, keep in mind that chain tension will vary throughout the rotation of the chainwheel
so it's gonna have tight and loose spots..

2nd those words of caution. I bent the axle on a Promax hub doing the same thing. and I thought I was the only one...

I jamb my hand between the front of the rear tire and the seat tube, snug the the drive side and then then the non-drive side, then tighten both big time.

Before I do the above, I also make sure my 'ring is in the tight spot.

I've heard it said that there should be 1/4" to 1/2" deflection in the chain to the touch; should it actually be as tight as you can possibly make it?

Thanks.

Agreed. Love my little BMX chain tensioners. Cost $10

Sort of along the same vein, where in the dropout should the axle be centred?

I have a road bike with relatively horizontal dropouts that I'm in the process of converting from single speed to FG. The axle placement, with the chain length as I have it looking a little far forward. I'm concerned the locknut may not be gripping enough.

Cheers

Cam

Install a chain tensioner on the drive side. It makes life really easy. There are all sorts of them available. Just Google "chain tensioner" or "chain tug." I got a fancy Surly one, and it doubles as a bottle opener. BusinessCycles.com has a couple of them that are more discreet and cheaper.

Doug

Is there a trick to getting the rear wheel back on and the chain the appropriate tightness? For the the life of me I can't seem to get it tight enough. Anyone have a foolproof technique?

You can make the whole thing virtually idiot proof by just getting a set of chain tugs. Makes chain tension/wheel alignment a science instead of an art. It assumes, however, that you're using track ends. If you're not, refer to previous posts for the art of the install.
The only problem with those is that they don't work with converted road bikes. One of these days I'm going to get my dropouts cutoff and some track ends weilded on.

I've been thinking about a chain tensioner for converted bikes with semi-vertical or semi-horizontal dropouts. If there was a washer connected to a pulling mechanism that wrapped around the dropout body, instead of inside it like a rear end, with a similar screw on the back/top to pull the washer back, you could accomplish the same thing. Someone please invent this.

Doug

The only problem with those is that they don't work with converted road bikes. One of these days I'm going to get my dropouts cutoff and some track ends weilded on.