I got a really, really, really good price on a new, never built up 2003 381i CSC Team frame. I am going to build it myself, Chorus, Mavic brakes, Proton wheelset yada yada yada.

As you all know, the rear brake cable routing is internal to the top tube. I have the frame next to the couch while I wait for the components to arrive and last night I was looking at that cable routing configuration.

So there is a housing inside the top tube. I assume that I run the cable from the levers to the front stop inside cable housing in the conventional manner and then? My inclination is to run the bare cable through the existing housing inside the frame and then continue from the rear stop to the calipers in the conventional manner.

Is this correct? Anyone? Buehler? Anyone?

I am sure I will have more questions as I go along.

On my 381, I run the housing from the STI lever all the way to the rear brake. The internal routing guides are big enough for the housing.

I got a really, really, really good price on a new, never built up 2003 381i CSC Team frame. I am going to build it myself, Chorus, Mavic brakes, Proton wheelset yada yada yada.

As you all know, the rear brake cable routing is internal to the top tube. I have the frame next to the couch while I wait for the components to arrive and last night I was looking at that cable routing configuration.

So there is a housing inside the top tube. I assume that I run the cable from the levers to the front stop inside cable housing in the conventional manner and then? My inclination is to run the bare cable through the existing housing inside the frame and then continue from the rear stop to the calipers in the conventional manner.

Is this correct? Anyone? Buehler? Anyone?

I am sure I will have more questions as I go along.Leave the cable housing alone... as it'll become obvious to ya when you start building your 381... congrats!

Although I don't have 381 I do have 486 & 461. At least on all newer Looks, their internal brake cable routing is basically the same ( just slightly different placements etc.) They come with no provisions to stop the "cut" brake cable housings so that won't work....besides why wouldya wanna do that when you can simply route the whole thing thru the channel unless you are transfering components/ cables over from another bike... ;)

Thank you both.

I think I understand now. I also think I now better understand some of the other discussions here about cable routing.

So I thread the bare cable through and then feed the housing through while removing the housing that is inside the top tube now? And then I save that housing so that if I ever remove the components I can put that housing back inside the frame (by reversing the installation procedure) to allow future installations without having to vacuum the kite string out through the other hole. Am I right this time?

Thank you both.

I think I understand now. I also think I now better understand some of the other discussions here about cable routing.

So I thread the bare cable through and then feed the housing through while removing the housing that is inside the top tube now? And then I save that housing so that if I ever remove the components I can put that housing back inside the frame (by reversing the installation procedure) to allow future installations without having to vacuum the kite string out through the other hole. Am I right this time?You have an internal housing that's inside the toptube that comes out? Interesting. At least my Looks have the internal guide that stays and don't come out at all. I simply stick the end of the brake cable + housing ( the brake cable inserted in the housing that came with the cable set, not the housing inside the TT(?)) into the front hole and it comes out the rear side hole...that's it...no cutting the housing except to connect to the rear caliper. Having said that some of the routing hole guide plastic pieces ( and I guess the internal guide tubing) are not glued properly at the factory and comes loose and I suppose pulls out(?)... Other the than that... you lost me with the housing inside the TT that pulls out :confused: . Maybe I've forgortten that it does pull out...as it's been a little while...anyhow, if it does pull out, put it back and leave it alone.... Your brake cable/ housing together are supposed to go thru the tubing("hoousing") inside the TT. I hope that makes sense...

Thank you both.

I think I understand now. I also think I now better understand some of the other discussions here about cable routing.

So I thread the bare cable through and then feed the housing through while removing the housing that is inside the top tube now? And then I save that housing so that if I ever remove the components I can put that housing back inside the frame (by reversing the installation procedure) to allow future installations without having to vacuum the kite string out through the other hole. Am I right this time?

The internal routing is actually a tube the runs inside the seat tube. There is no need to run the cable first. You are referring to some frames where the internal routing is just a hole front and back and you have to fish the cable through. There is no need for that method with the 381. The cable and housing run inside a tube in the seat tube.

The internal routing is actually a tube the runs inside the seat tube. There is no need to run the cable first. You are referring to some frames where the internal routing is just a hole front and back and you have to fish the cable through. There is no need for that method with the 381. The cable and housing run inside a tube in the seat tube.
Don't think complicated...They've done everything for you already... you don't need to cut the housing or fish out the cable inside the top tube. There is a cable routing guide tubing inside the top tube. If it pulls out, leave it alone. You are not suppose to pull it out. It's supposed to be connected from the front hole entry guide plastic piece to the rear hole guide plastic piece. It's supposed to stay inside the top tube for your cable/ housing to slide thru so you don't have to fish the cable/ housing out.

Just mount the lever,
put the cable through the lever,
slide the cable through the housing that came with the cable set,
stick the end of the cable and the long uncut housing into the front hole,
push it through until it comes out the rear hole,
now cut the housing to proper length and connect the cable to the caliper.

That's it, simple :) .

Thanks guys. And sorry, sorry, sorry for clogging up the forum with a really stupid question. I should have just waited for the parts to arrive. As you correctly predicted, once I have all the pieces here the solution is totally obvious. But thanks anyway.

But . . . The frame has been hanging in a shop for a couple of years. Probably to simplify display and storage the integrated headset installation was finished. I know, not much to that either. Press on the race, arrange the parts, insert fork into headtube. But they also inserted the compression plug into the top of the fork and attached the top cap. This is all okay but the plug is at the very top of the carbon steerer tube. I am nearing the point at which I will be cutting the steerer.

What is your recommendation for dealing with the plug? Should I just take a punch and tap it down farther into the steerer until it is past the cutting line? Obviously being very careful not to tap it down too far? Or does this risking damaging the carbon steerer and therefore there is some other procedure I should be using?

Does the plug inside the steerer tube not unscrew like an expander bolt?
On my Look 481SL the plug has an expander bolt and can be reused by unscrewing it.
If you are not confident in this operation yourself then don't do it, don't do it :)
Get some advise from Look themselves or get a shop to fit it.

As for the steerer tube cutting - just make sure you have all the headset bearings, races, top cover, stack spacers and stem! in place before you mark to cut. There is no going back. It is easy to do. Carbon doesn't splinter or anything like that - well not in my experience. Take your time when marking and cutting.