Since finishing the IRO build yesterday and taking a few short rides on it (funny how I suddenly have all these errands to run ;) ), I've noticed that no matter how much I crank down the rear hub (It's a Phil Wood with alan-key caps. Probably not quite as much bite as a nut on a threaded axle hub.) the chain will have loosened up after even a short ride if I'm cranking.

I'm attributing this to the fresh, smooth powder coat on a new frame, so the problem will probably eventually correct itself once the dropouts are "scuffed", right?

In the meantime, I think I'm going to have to use a chain tensioner(s?). So I'm wondering, among those of you that run tensioners, do you use just one on the drive side or one on each side?

I only run one on my SS MTB, but it seems that chain tension is a little more important on a fixie, where derailment can have even more disastrous consequences...

Will Surly tug-nuts work with Phil Wood hubs on track drop-outs?

-Trevor

I say two so that you can easily align the wheel

I say two so that you can easily align the wheel

Well, turns out the decision was sorta made for me.

Stopped by my LBS this-afternoon and they had *one* Surly TugNut in stock.

Fixed/SS specific parts are in short supply in shops around here.

Getting the wheel aligned was simple enough. I'll wait and see if the non-drive side slips before plunking down the cash for another one. ($25! It's not *that* much more complicated, than, say, a seat-collar. Why so much? Yeah, yeah, I know. Shorter production runs, niche market, blah, blah, blah. $25 still seems a little steep.)

-Trevor