Does anyone have a preferance? I'll be buying a new drivetrain for my new fixed gear mountain bike, so I am open to suggestions. I've seen Matt Chester's take on it, and I agree with his points, but it seems to me that, logically, a 1/8" drivetrain should be stronger and more resistant to stretch. Anyone?

the los

I usually go 3/32" just because that is the road standard so there is a much larger (also cheaper) selection of parts.

Does anyone have a preferance? I'll be buying a new drivetrain for my new fixed gear mountain bike, so I am open to suggestions. I've seen Matt Chester's take on it, and I agree with his points, but it seems to me that, logically, a 1/8" drivetrain should be stronger and more resistant to stretch. Anyone?

the los

Take all this with a shaker of salt, as I am not an expert by any means, but... My Langster has a 1/8" drive train (in spite of the website spec'ing 3/32") and I feel like it is much more solid, especially taking off from a dead stop on a hill. Given the forces being put into the drive train, especially as a fixie, and especially as an off road fixie, I think I would spend a little extra for the beef.
I looked at Harris Cyclery for some price comparisons, and SRAM 3/32" chains ran $16-$20, about the same as 1/8", sprockets where the same price and selection across the board. However, they suggested 3/32" for road Fixie/SS, and 1/8" for off-road use.

Best,
Gordon

In general I'm a big fan of 1/8" stuff, but on a MTB with less then a 144 bcd, there aren't tons of good chainring options (Boone maybe?). I don't see to many good reasons to mix and match, so go 3/32". With the torque of small rings and big cogs, you should be fine. I'd spend big on the chain though. I just picked up a connex 10sp. chain to run on my latest 3/32" bike, and its by far and away the smoothest, quietest chain I've ever run. $45 well spent.

First, there's no actual "stretch" in a bike chain. From Sheldon Brown: "Cyclists often speak of chain "stretch", as if the side plates of an old chain were pulled out of shape by the repeated stresses of pedaling. This is not actually how chains elongate. The major cause of chain "stretch" is wearing away of the metal where the rivet rotates inside of the bushing (or the "bushing" part of the inside plate) as the chain links flex and straighten as the chain goes onto and off of the sprockets." So, the difference in 1/8" and 3/32" wear should be minimal.

I can see using a 1/8" chain on a fixed/SS MTB if there are steep climbs to ride. Otherwise, I'd stick to 3/32" chains, but buy only 7/8-speed and avoid 9-speed chains. Back when 9-speeds began showing up at MTB races, chains started breaking. We hardly ever saw an 8-speed chain break. Besides, an 8-speed chain is usually cheaper than a 9-speed. I've had great success with SRAM's PC-58 and PC-68 chains.

Also, a chain used on a fixed/SS bike lasts longer than on a multispeed since it doesn't have to run at an angle (cross chaining) and it stays in a perfect chain line.

hi,

I am also building up my first fixie/SS from a 70's steel frame. So far I have gathered 1/8" chain, track cog and SS freewheel, but I am using a late 90's dura ace crank I have sitting around from a cyclocross bike, which I assume to be 3/32". My question is, will this crankset work with the rest of the drivetrain?

hi,

I am also building up my first fixie/SS from a 70's steel frame. So far I have gathered 1/8" chain, track cog and SS freewheel, but I am using a late 90's dura ace crank I have sitting around from a cyclocross bike, which I assume to be 3/32". My question is, will this crankset work with the rest of the drivetrain?
But I don't recommend mixing 3/32" and 1/8" components. We're a pretty solid fixed/track/messenger/commuter shop, and I've seen the damage that can happen! The most likely is slightly bending a tooth on the chainring when the chain rides up. Next revolution, and you have fireworks...

the los

Does anyone have a preferance? I'll be buying a new drivetrain for my new fixed gear mountain bike, so I am open to suggestions. I've seen Matt Chester's take on it, and I agree with his points, but it seems to me that, logically, a 1/8" drivetrain should be stronger and more resistant to stretch. Anyone?

the los

Los,

Ummmmm......tough decision my personal preference on my road bike fix is 1/8". That said let us examine the fine points of going 3/32":

1) Parts compatibility.... are you kidding 3/32" wins hands down. Especially when 110 bcd (bolt circle diameter) is taken into account.

2) 3/32 flexes horizontally bettah....this is a legimate point especially if the bike is going to be ridden off road.

3) 3/32 chains are made better. Most of us (Ernesto from Wisconsin not included) do not perform chain scratches on the local handrails while on our way to the local pub, thus 1/8" chains make no sense. The majority of 3/32 chain are bushingless which is a superior design.

That is my 2 cents.

Victor the wombat

1/8" is the standard that most vert and park BMXers use. Its harder to find rings and cogs to fit, in the right gears, that dont weight more than a frame.

You can buy a 3/32" heavy duty chain, KMC makes one, Its got thicker plates and the pins are muchroomed over. The only trouble you'll run into there is alot of chain tools wont fit it. I have one on my bike now. I train for downhill sprints on my fixxie and didnt want a chain flying off into the back of my leg while mashing up the hills in my area.

Ciao

a 3/32 chain in theory should be shronger as a whole than an 1/8. A 1/8 has the same plates and pins as a 3/32 the difference is the chain link spacers. Wider spacers longer pins more torque/leverage on pins and plates and as well.

a 3/32 chain in theory should be shronger as a whole than an 1/8. A 1/8 has the same plates and pins as a 3/32 the difference is the chain link spacers. Wider spacers longer pins more torque/leverage on pins and plates and as well.
If you drive the 1/8" chain with a 3/32" chainring then yes, but with the proper chainring and sprocket, both pins have basically full bearing on the tooth, so neither has more leverage applied at the plate. However, because the same force is being applied across the larger contact area of the 1/8" pin, there is less wear. And that said, I don't know that 1/8" chains don't have slightly thicker plates. However, my understanding is that most 1/8" chains use bushings or sleeves, and sleeveless chains wear better because lube gets to where it needs to be better. My Langster came with what I thought was a 1/8" chain, as it looks really thick compared to a standard road chain. However, I am pretty sure it is actually the KMC track chain, 3/32" with thicker plates. Looks nice and beefy, which may just be an aesthetic issue, but I like it, and still works with redily available chainrings and cogs. Cool.

Gordon

Gordon, I don't think it really matters. I have come to the conclusion it is an illusion that a 1/8 chain feels more powerful and stronger than a 3/32. Any perceived flex is more than likey in the cog and chainring. I think you might agree

One of my best friends rides a 3/16 on 1/8 cogs. It looks like a motorcycle chain and make more noise because of the off mesh than a car dragging a grocery cart. Quite funny. Sounds like the bike you had as a kid with a chain guard.

One of my best friends rides a 3/16 on 1/8 cogs. It looks like a motorcycle chain and makeS more noise, because of the off mesh, than a car dragging a grocery cart. Quite funny. Sounds like the bike you had as a kid with a METAL chain guard.

My last few chains have been SRAM PC-1 nickel plated 1/8", running on 3/32" rings and cogs. They run nice and quiet, last plenty long, they're pretty (nickel!) and you can find them sometimes at Performance for like $7.00.

Gordon, I don't think it really matters. I have come to the conclusion it is an illusion that a 1/8 chain feels more powerful and stronger than a 3/32. Any perceived flex is more than likey in the cog and chainring. I think you might agree
I quite agree. I think the 1/8" look is purely aesthetic at this point, but I do feel that a single speed bike looks better with a big, fat chain. That is why I like the chain on my Langster. It looks like a 1/8", but is really a 3/32" and works with all the 3/32" components. They do market it as being a stronger chain, and if that is true, then great.

Gordon

I ride an eighth. A friend traded me a surly 1/8 cog and chain. On average a 1/8 chain is the cheaper option.