I'm not a very experienced rider, and I'm just getting really 'used to' my first set of clipless pedals and shoes; a cheap pair SPD clones of some kind, and '04 Specialized Sonoma shoes. I've ridden on them for about 1000 miles (including my first two centuries this past month!), and,

After longer rides, my toes feel cold and numb, while the 'balls' of my feet feel achy, as if I've been standing on a large ball bearing for a couple of hours. The sides of my feet are not what hurt; the shoes FIT fine. I'm trying to figure out if it's the 'compromise' cycling / general wear shoe that's bad, or if it's because of the pedals.

Thinking of switching to a more 'serious' road shoe, like the Sidi genius 4. Anyone make this type of switch and notice a difference? Do you think switching to Look type pedals would feel better? I'd like to keep the pedal/shoe combo under $300, and am more concerned with it feeling good after 50-100 miles than with it being 5 grams lighter than the other guy's.

Thanks!

I have the Sonomas as well. There are many reasons why shoes don't fit or feel right, and many here can help you more than I can with suggestions. BUT...one thing I can relate is, the Specialized Body Geometry insoles- with the hump under the ball of the foot- is SUPPOSED to help with the numbness. Well, for ME- they hurt. They not only did NOT help my numbness problems, but made it worse. I took out the stock insoles, and put in regular flat sports insoles, and that helped. When you say "After longer rides, my toes feel cold and numb, while the 'balls' of my feet feel achy, as if I've been standing on a large ball bearing for a couple of hours", you sort of have- that metatarsal ball on the Specialized insoles.

Good luck.

Your problem could be the relatively small contact patch of the SPD pedals, it could be an insole that doesn't fit your foot well, it could be that you just need to adapt to the longer efforts, and it could be that you need to move your cleats back a little to move your foot farther forward on the pedal. Shoes are like saddles - what works great for one person can be a pain to the next. Try the cheap things first. You can move your cleats for nothing, and you can get different insoles for not much. Many would recommend changing pedals to something with a larger cleat.

Some other points:

Stiffer-soled shoes can definitely make a difference, but I agree with Kerry's suggestion to try cheaper things first.

Make sure you're not wearing the shoes too tight. Overly tight laces or straps can create numbness and may contribute to cramping. Some people like them tight, but I found looser helps. Feeling cold and numb could be a sign that you're wearing your shoes too tight and your feet aren't getting the bloodflow they need. Or it could be a sign that it's 20 degrees outside, since you don't say what climate you're riding in. YMMV.

I personally found that stiffer soled shoes are a real help, but I'm not a huge fan of true road shoes except for racers. A good, stiff-soled pair of MTB shoes will generally give you better pedaling efficiency than your current pair, and better walking traction than road shoes. I wear Sidi Dominators, which I like because I get better walking traction, and once I get the same pedal system on all my bikes (I've used several different systems and settled on Egg Beaters), I'll be able to wear the same shoes on both road bikes, the commuter and the MTB. Many road cleats require an adapter for use on MTB shoes, s if you decide to switch both shoes and pedals systems, keep that in mind.

Ah, thanks for the advice on both the cleats and the insoles. I checked out the 'body geometry' insoles; you're right, I didn't even look at them to notice the little 'hump.'

Regarding the climate question: Portland, Oregon has generally been in the lower 50's lately, though this problem didn't seem any better or worse in the (little) 20-degree temperature range I've ridden in.

About the stiff laces -- yep, I have laced 'em up pretty tight to feel more 'secure.'

I will try loosening the laces, moving the cleats back, and replacing insoles (<B> Ruger </B>, you said you used 'regular sports insoles' -- just bought at any sporting goods store?) , sequentially, before I go about buying a $150 pair of shoes. In the time it takes to try these things, I'll probably also have several hundred more miles under my belt, as Thursday (after finals) I'll be starting 'base' in full force (for the first time), and I'll see if my pansy-soled feet don't get a little tougher, too.

<b> 633 </b>, You said that 'good MTB shoes' like your Sidi Dominators might give 'better pedalling efficiency' than my current pair shoes; is this due to a stiffer sole, or something else?

Thanks for your help; those are truly useful, simple suggestions that could save this low-ish budget college guy some cash.

About the stiff laces -- yep, I have laced 'em up pretty tight to feel more 'secure.'


If they are laced shoes, you are out of luck, but with velcroed shoes I find it works well to make the top strp tight, but the others loose. Tight at the ankle to feel secure, loose across the ball of the foot. Harder to do with laces, without a kinking boot type situation, where the last few crosses are speed lacing.

Best,
Gordon

replacing insoles (<B> Ruger </B>, you said you used 'regular sports insoles' -- just bought at any sporting goods store?) , .

Yeah- just go to a Sports Authority, Footlocker, or the like. Spenco, SofSole, there are several out there. Just make sure whichever one you buy doesn't take up TOO much room in the shoe- too-tight shoes are a sure road to discomfort. I have the Spenco flat insole in my shoes, but I also have a few other shoes with SofSole Comfort Cushions in them. Just make sure they are comfortable for YOUR feet, and don't make the shoes too tight.

I've already tried all the "cheap" solutions, and have to move on to the expensive ones: new (wide) shoes, or a larger cleat interface, which means new pedals as well. (I'm using Candys, which are SPD). Sigh...