View Full Version : My first Build
Beantown 03-10-2004, 07:01 AM Let the fun begin...
My '03 Jamie Roy frame is on the way and I am going to attempt my first bike build
(wheels too).
Coupla questions...
1. Is there a bike building bible out there, either on line or in print?
2. I'm inviting suggestions for components best suited to fixie bikes, from bar tape to wheels & hubs. What have you riders & builders found to be the best or most useful parts.
also, how bout source suggestions too.
cheers
Pat
TNSquared 03-10-2004, 07:21 AM Let the fun begin...
My '03 Jamie Roy frame is on the way and I am going to attempt my first bike build
(wheels too).
Coupla questions...
1. Is there a bike building bible out there, either on line or in print?
2. I'm inviting suggestions for components best suited to fixie bikes, from bar tape to wheels & hubs. What have you riders & builders found to be the best or most useful parts.
also, how bout source suggestions too.
cheers
Pat
Just built my fixed/ss bike. This was actually my second build - I built a cx bike this winter - and it went much easier. No finicky derailleurs and shifters to mess with!
I'm sure there is a book more specific to building, but I used "Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance" for both builds and it was fine. It details how to install each compenent, so you just need to put some thought into the order.
For fixed parts and resources, start here - www.sheldonbrown.com. I found everything I needed here in terms of both information and parts. I went the less complicated, more expensive route and had Sheldon's shop build my wheels with the Surly track hubs. I just didn't want to mess with converting a standard road freehub, spacers, re-dishing the wheel, etc. etc.
Good Luck Enjoy the build process - it's not that difficult and amazingly gratifying.
Beantown 03-10-2004, 07:39 AM I live about two miles from Sheldon's shop (Harris's), and will check in with them if I get stuck.
I'll check that book out though, it sounds like a good all-round book to have.
what wheel hub setup did you have them do for you?
TNSquared 03-10-2004, 08:14 AM I live about two miles from Sheldon's shop (Harris's), and will check in with them if I get stuck.
Yeah, I guess Beantown should have clued me in to your location!
I did not mention it, but the Zinn book has an entire chapter on wheel building if you decide to go the DIY route. Either way it is an excellent book and I consider it essential. My copy has many grease and framesaver stains from repeated use. It goes for around $25.
After emailing Sheldon with my wheel criteria, I ended up buying Surly track hubs 32h, DT14g spokes in 3x lacing, and Mavic MA3 hubs. I think these are stock handbuilt wheels that Sheldon gets through QBP - I just had harris cylcery go ahead and mount the freewheel and track cog because I need the hub respaced for 126mm and math makes my head hurt. Getting the rear spacing and chainline correct is by far the most complicated part of the fixed build, so I kinda wimped on that one.
I also replaced the axles with hollow ones so I can use qr skewers. I know many will say that won't work and the skewer will slip, but Sheldon doesn't agree. I bought Ultegra skewers because they are metal, and I just make sure to be very ham fisted when I tighten them down. So far no problems, although I've only done some low intensity rides and haven't really cranked hard on it yet.
innergel 03-10-2004, 11:43 AM 1. Is there a bike building bible out there, either on line or in print?
2. I'm inviting suggestions for components best suited to fixie bikes, from bar tape to wheels & hubs. What have you riders & builders found to be the best or most useful parts.
also, how bout source suggestions too.
1. I second the suggestion of Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance.
2. Read the posts in this section of the forums. There are only two pages, so it shouldn't take long. Virtually every fixie specific part has been discussed in the last month or so. And half the fun is figuring out what to get! Sheldon Brown is always a good place to start. Someone also mentioned businesscycles.com, chucksbikes.com, and yellowjersey.org. Ebay has lots of stuff too.
For my build, also my first, my main decision has been whether to keep the bike retro or go with a modern look. The 70's vintage steel frame dictated a retro look, so I've tried to stick with that. Quill stems, chrome handlebars and seatpost, NOS cranks. The only nod I've given to modern is my wheelset, Suzue flip/flop track hubs laced to Mavic CX33 rims. I'm toying with the idea of using cowhorn bars instead of drop bars. They certainly say fixie more than the drop bars. Other fixie stuff might be no computer, no brakes or only a front brake and bolt on axles. I hope this helps.
Good luck and let everyone know how it's going.
Beantown 03-10-2004, 12:11 PM For the additional web connections
I'm thinking a modern look to go with the frame.
The IRO frame tubes are non-cylindrical, lending a modern air right off.
The frame is white (hmmmm), so I plan to make the most of that with either white or black components. I'm planning on drops thus far but may have to think on that.
Q: I like to ride on the hoods on my road bike, how do I do that on a one hooded bike?
All I'll have is the brake hood!, s'up with that?
innergel 03-10-2004, 12:19 PM Q: I like to ride on the hoods on my road bike, how do I do that on a one hooded bike?
All I'll have is the brake hood!, s'up with that?
Maybe mount a dummy lever and hood on the non-brake side. I haven't exactly figured this one out either because I'm still searching for one long-reach brake caliper that doesn't cost $60. I refuse to have one brake cost more than my frame ($40)! That might be another reason to go with cowhorns and a Tektro cross lever.
Your modern fixie build sounds cool. I'm looking forward to hearing and seeing it's progression.
OverStuffed 03-10-2004, 12:53 PM My favorite source of parts was the parts bin at the LBS. At the time, they had just been taken over by new (and local) owners, and were eager to get rid of a lot of used parts. Mismatched cranks cost me 20 bucks, NOS chainring, etc. Of course, I was building up a commuter. You may care more about the appearance of your bike. As for the brake hood, I put a nut/star washer on a short bolt, put the nut right up against the empty cable guide inside the hood, and backed out the bolt as far as I could till the lever was locked out. If you don't want to do that, take the lever off and leave the hood on the bar.
--Kevin
SenorPedro 03-10-2004, 04:35 PM Maybe mount a dummy lever and hood on the non-brake side. I haven't exactly figured this one out either because I'm still searching for one long-reach brake caliper that doesn't cost $60. I refuse to have one brake cost more than my frame ($40)! That might be another reason to go with cowhorns and a Tektro cross lever.
Check those guys out, they have a pair of Tektro long-reach dual-pivot calipers with cartridge pads for something like $36 bucks. Pretty nice fit and finish and will not break the bank like a set of Sh**mano's.
FixedPip 03-10-2004, 05:16 PM Like these fellers:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3665413955&category=42331&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBWA%3AIT&rd=1
Sheldon Brown can probably set you up with a bar as I noticed the Harris Cyclery special edition track bikes have them one.
You can also generally modify any old brake lever set to make one a dummy.
TrevorInSoCal 03-11-2004, 10:52 PM Maybe mount a dummy lever and hood on the non-brake side. I haven't exactly figured this one out either because I'm still searching for one long-reach brake caliper that doesn't cost $60. I refuse to have one brake cost more than my frame ($40)! That might be another reason to go with cowhorns and a Tektro cross lever.
Your modern fixie build sounds cool. I'm looking forward to hearing and seeing it's progression.
I bought a cheap pair of tektro levers. They seem to work fine w/ a Shimano 105 brake but they are a bit spongy. As for the dummy lever, I just removed the lever part and left the hood. On the tektros there's a little philips-head screw you can remove and the spring will pop loose. Then it's just a matter of pushing out the little retaining pin that holds the lever in place and the whole thing will pop loose. It doesn't look as clean as a "dummy lever", but I don't mind.
http://www.rut-riders.org/Images/dummy_hood.jpg
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