I am only 15 years old and have been road riding for about 2 years. I will be in a club with a coach this year and would like to know if I should work with a coach for a few years and then race or start as soon as possible? I live in IL and training is limited to the trainer at this time of the year. Any ideas please let me know.

I am only 15 years old and have been road riding for about 2 years. I will be in a club with a coach this year and would like to know if I should work with a coach for a few years and then race or start as soon as possible? I live in IL and training is limited to the trainer at this time of the year. Any ideas please let me know.

That fact that you're seemingly patient enough to ask if you should wait to "get your feet under you" says alot about your maturity at 15. However, you can certainly start racing this year. Fitness is obviously important but racing is much more than that. Learning how to ride in a group, paceline work, attacks as well as tactics that work for you are all things you can only learn in races.

Get in touch with your soon-to-be coach and get his take on what type of workouts he has in mind and when. Most people start training by the first of the year even if it means gym work and your friend the trainer. Learning to ride rollers can also be a good thing to break up the boredom of the trainer.

I started racing at the same age as you (I'm 45 now). It changed my life ultimately. It's not for everyone but the hard work can be very rewarding.

That fact that you're seemingly patient enough to ask if you should wait to "get your feet under you" says alot about your maturity at 15. However, you can certainly start racing this year. Fitness is obviously important but racing is much more than that. Learning how to ride in a group, paceline work, attacks as well as tactics that work for you are all things you can only learn in races.

Get in touch with your soon-to-be coach and get his take on what type of workouts he has in mind and when. Most people start training by the first of the year even if it means gym work and your friend the trainer. Learning to ride rollers can also be a good thing to break up the boredom of the trainer.

I started racing at the same age as you (I'm 45 now). It changed my life ultimately. It's not for everyone but the hard work can be very rewarding.

I'd say definitely start as soon as possible. I think you're ready for it. Most junior races have much smaller fields, and it will give you a good idea of what happens in and during a race. If you're feeling up to it, I know lots of junior racers who will do the junior race, change their wheels, and come back out and do the category races as well. I know several around here that are only slightly older than you, and are already riding very well in Pro 1-2 races. Give it a try. I don't think you'll regret it. Racing is some good fun as most of us know around here.

...if I should work with a coach for a few years and then race or start as soon as possible?

Racing gives training a purpose. Work with your coach to set some goals and you can focus and measure your training with races.

My son started at 14 and now at 16 can put the hurt on me. Junior fields are typically small and the racers have a wide range of abilities. Often times this means you will find yourself time trialing in a race, either off the front because you dominate the junior field or off the back because some stud has wound it up faster than you can go. With that said you may want to focus some of your training towards time trial skills since you may find yourself riding alone (hopefully off the front).

Once your club/coach thinks you are ready (pack skills wise) enter some Cat 5 races. This will allow you to experience racing in a larger field and develop the pack skills you will not get in most junior fields.

If you are close to a velodrome consider doing some track racing. Good for developing skills (pack, handling, cadence). The track in Indy has bikes they loan to juniors, not sure about other tracks. Track racing also gives mom and dad a chance to watch you race in a spectator friendly venue. There is nothing quite as boring as driving 3 hours to a road race and seeing your kid racing for a total 30 seconds.

Pack skills are usually one of the weakest part for new racers. Consider rollers to develop the skills you need to hold a straight line. Rollers will also help you develop a smooth spin at high cadence which allows you to put the hurt on others who cannot spin well with junior gears.

You also need to become familiar with junior gearing restrictions. There should be a post here from a few weeks ago. Spend the winter rounding up the equipment you need.

Since you are in the midwest July brings on SuperWeek in Wisonsin which has a true junior field (75+/- juniors). Something to consider either to race or as a spectator. You probably need to be able to hang on in a Cat 3 field to be able to hang with the juniors at SuperWeek as there are some national level studs and some organized teams.
http://www.internationalcycling.com/

...I live in IL and training is limited to the trainer at this time of the year...

Why? Our family lives in northern Indiana and will train outdoors as long as there is not ice on the road. Get yourself some appropriate clothing layers and plan your rides appropriately. Being able to ride outside on the weekends makes the trainer inside more tolerable. Mountain biking can be a bit warmer in the woods and will help you with handling skills.

I am not riding because I don’t have the clothing for the winter. But I do run twice a week in my gym class. We do about 2 to 3 miles in a 50-minute class. I also lift in that class and I follow one of the plans in a Lance Armstrong book. I have notice about a twenty-pound drop in my weight since the end of the summer to now. I can set my own pace when I run and can go 3 to 4 miles. Does running help for cycling at all or does it work other muscles?
I got my first 18-speed bike over the summer and have been making changes to it. It came with a mix of Shimano 600 and Ultegra 9 speed. I have upgrade to Dura Ace 9 except for the shifter. I am considering going up to Dura Ace 10 but using a FSA super light carbon crank. After all it would save about 150 to 200 grams off of the 7800 crank. What are some of the restrictions of junior level riding? I know one of them is no 11 in the back but that’s about it. Also how do you determine a stem length? I upgrade to a Performance Forte Pro full carbon fork and cant find the right length. If you know any of them about carbon handle bars or carbon cranks please let me know.

I know about tri's not road races, but my son started racing tri's with me at age 9. He is now 18 and kicks my but like he means it.
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I am not riding because I don?t have the clothing for the winter. But I do run twice a week in my gym class. We do about 2 to 3 miles in a 50-minute class. I also lift in that class and I follow one of the plans in a Lance Armstrong book. I have notice about a twenty-pound drop in my weight since the end of the summer to now. I can set my own pace when I run and can go 3 to 4 miles. Does running help for cycling at all or does it work other muscles?
I got my first 18-speed bike over the summer and have been making changes to it. It came with a mix of Shimano 600 and Ultegra 9 speed. I have upgrade to Dura Ace 9 except for the shifter. I am considering going up to Dura Ace 10 but using a FSA super light carbon crank. After all it would save about 150 to 200 grams off of the 7800 crank. What are some of the restrictions of junior level riding? I know one of them is no 11 in the back but that?s about it. Also how do you determine a stem length? I upgrade to a Performance Forte Pro full carbon fork and cant find the right length. If you know any of them about carbon handle bars or carbon cranks please let me know.

Aluminum bars and cranks are just about as light and a whole lot cheaper. I also wouldn't bother upgrading to Durace 10spd at this stage of the game. Save your dough, or spend it on clothing that will allow you to ride more often.

Join a racing club or team. Get experience riding in group rides.

Running at this time of year is fine. By the end of January though, you'll need to be spending more time on the bike if racing in the spring and summer is your goal. Consistancy is Key. You will need to ride more than twice a week. Once you get in touch with a team or club, you can learn more about the racing in your area, and how to train for them. If the races provide a Junior class, you can just jump in. What's the worst thing to happen? You could start out in age graded time trials or MTB racing.

If your old stem length is correct just use it, or get one the same length.

Find a team with a good junior program and don't worry about "fancy" equipment. In the next year or two, you will destroy it all anyway.

I do run twice a week in my gym class. We do about 2 to 3 miles in a 50-minute class. I also lift in that class and I follow one of the plans in a Lance Armstrong book. I have notice about a twenty-pound drop in my weight since the end of the summer to now. I can set my own pace when I run and can go 3 to 4 miles. Does running help for cycling at all or does it work other muscles?

Running and any other endurance sport is good for your heart and lungs, endurance-wise. But they will only get you so far. Use a stationary trainer and do intervals.

I am not riding because I don?t have the clothing for the winter. But
I am considering going up to Dura Ace 10 but using a FSA super light carbon crank...If you know any of them about carbon handle bars or carbon cranks please let me know.

The fancy equipment will make very little difference compared to the condition of your body. In my opinion, you're much better off spending $200 on clothes that'll let you train through the winter months rather than on a carbon crank.

At your level (hell, even at my level), a bike that weighs under 20 pounds and has at least Shimano 105 will be sufficient. If you suck with such a bike, you'd still suck with a full 20-speed Dura Ace carbon fibered rig. If you feel the need to spend lots of money on bike upgrades, I strongly suggest getting a set of quality lightweight wheels that come in at about 1,500 grams (e.g. Kysyriums SSC SLs, or Velomax Orion IIs--actually, custom handbuilt wheels would be cheaper).