View Full Version : Chainrings and cable seals
pinepig 01-04-2005, 10:39 PM I'm working on a build for a new Redline Ti frame. Drivetrain will be Campy 10, with a Ritchey WCS compact 110 crank. I plan to swap the chainrings to 46/34 to start with. Which chainrings would y'all recommend for best shifting and longevity? I'm thinking FSA or Ritchey, but have no first-hand experience with either (it's been a long time since I've delved into some new equipment). Also, is the narrow 10sp chain a factor when selecting rings?
On an unrelated note, who makes some good cable seals that fit at the cable bosses? For those with Dirt Rag #111, check the Moots ad on pg. 31 for what I'm talking about.
wunlap togo 01-05-2005, 10:40 AM [QUOTE=pinepig]I'm working on a build for a new Redline Ti frame. Drivetrain will be Campy 10, with a Ritchey WCS compact 110 crank. I plan to swap the chainrings to 46/34 to start with. Which chainrings would y'all recommend for best shifting and longevity?
I have had good luck with TA specialties rings. They will shift fine with your 10spd chain, as will most any 8-9spd rings. If you will be racing cross, you should go with a 38 or 39 tooth inner ring. 34t is too low for cross.
the seamus 01-05-2005, 03:30 PM Ditto what Wunlap said, and make sure you get the campy compatible bolt circle diameter, which is different than Shimano. I got mine from cyclocrossworld.com. Mighty fine chainring.
34t is definitely too low for racing cross, but if you to a lot of trail riding, it might be nice.
cxwrench 01-05-2005, 07:30 PM 110 ritchey cranks, right? that kind of kills the 130/135 worries right there. i would follow the recommendations for 38 or so for the small ring. you'll never need the 34 if you're racing.
and what are cable seals? if you end up wasing the bike during or post race, water will get past whatever seals you have. if anything does seal well enough to keep water out, it will probably have too much friction for good shifting. just use regular cable/housing and plan on replacing it fairly often. it's cheap.
pinepig 01-05-2005, 10:39 PM Thanks for the tips. Any good sources of 110 BCD Specialties TA rings? Cyclocrossworld does not carry them.
BTW, I'm not planning on doing any racing with this rig. This will be my primary bike, used on paved and unpaved roads/2-tracks. 34 may be low, but I spend my summers in the Rockies!
Edited to add: Forgot to ask; grease, anti-seize, or locktite 242 for chainring bolts?
Greg O 01-06-2005, 09:55 AM Thanks for the tips. Any good sources of 110 BCD Specialties TA rings? Cyclocrossworld does not carry them.
BTW, I'm not planning on doing any racing with this rig. This will be my primary bike, used on paved and unpaved roads/2-tracks. 34 may be low, but I spend my summers in the Rockies!
Edited to add: Forgot to ask; grease, anti-seize, or locktite 242 for chainring bolts?
For chainrings, try http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings.html#110
I always use anti-seize for the bolts,
Greg
wunlap togo 01-06-2005, 12:12 PM Grease is fine. Loctite is overkill. Nothing wrong with antiseize, but grease will suffice.
I have an FSA 34 with Campy 13/29 on the rear and it is none too low for single track in the mountains. You'll be glad to have it in Colorado. It was also good to have low gearing in the thick, sticky muck at nationals. I saw quite a few masters toppling over sideways when they couldn't turn their higher gearing.
pinepig 01-06-2005, 05:49 PM Looks like I'll go with antiseize on those chainring bolts.
Good to see some vindication for my 34t choice! Hey, there's Rockies outside of Colorado, you know (Wyoming in my case).
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