Just curious how YOU PERSONALLY decide what to spend on a frame. Do you decide what you want to spend on components first? And then do you use that as some kind of basis to decide how much to spend on the frame? And do you have some kind of threshold you won't cross? i.e. "I'd never spend more than x on a frame." Or is it often purely a "I have to have that frame, I don't care what it costs!!!" What other factors do you consider? For example, do you decide what to spend on a frame and then look at everything in that price range (ie considering frames made of all materials that cost x amount)? Or do you decide on a particular material first and then see what it will cost to get the level of quality that you want? I'm mostly asking about NEW purchases...

Just curious. Do you decide what you want to spend on components first? And then do you use that as some kind of basis to decide how much to spend on the frame? And do you have some kind of threshold you won't cross? i.e. "I'd never spend more than x on a frame." Or is it often purely a "I have to have that frame, I don't care what it costs!!!" What other factors do you consider? For example, do you decide what to spend on a frame and then look at everything in that price range (ie considering frames made of all materials that cost x amount)? Or do you decide on a particular material first and then see what it will cost to get the level of quality that you want? I'm mostly asking about NEW purchases...


Whatever the Max your wife will let you spend

I decide what I want in general terms (e.g. builder I trust, strong, steel, tasteful paint options), and then shop for the best deal. That might be essentially the same as your last option. I might spend a little more than the absolute least amount for emotional reasons.

There are some frames that I lust after, but at this point I can't convince myself to spend three times as much.

If you read thru these posts you find people all over the map. Some people prize functionality, others love super light weight, some go for prestige, you might need a zirconium frame (No, they don't exist) I would say the bottom line for a good custom made American steel frame is $1000 (Curtlo, others) you can get custom titanium (Habanero) out of China for about the same. From there the skies the limit. Like everything else the the first 90% in functionality cost the same as the next 7-8% and the last 2-3% costs double that. If you're happy with a basic well made (I am!) frame spend less- if you need/want the super artisan work of Seven, Serotta, etc then get it (if you can afford it) and enjoy it. Live is too short to ride a compromise bike.
Make sure you know your frame size and keep a close eye on the RBR classifieds- many a good deal has shown up there.

If you read thru these posts you find people all over the map. Some people prize functionality, others love super light weight, some go for prestige, you might need a zirconium frame (No, they don't exist) I would say the bottom line for a good custom made American steel frame is $1000 (Curtlo, others) you can get custom titanium (Habanero) out of China for about the same. From there the skies the limit. Like everything else the the first 90% in functionality cost the same as the next 7-8% and the last 2-3% costs double that. If you're happy with a basic well made (I am!) frame spend less- if you need/want the super artisan work of Seven, Serotta, etc then get it (if you can afford it) and enjoy it. Live is too short to ride a compromise bike.
Make sure you know your frame size and keep a close eye on the RBR classifieds- many a good deal has shown up there.

Yes, but I'm wondering how YOU approach this.

For me it pretty much has to be a US hand built steel frame if it's gonna be my main ride. In this case I think there are diminishing returns after the $1500 mark, unless you are talking about something really special like a Richard Sachs. In general I like to spend about the same amount on a frame as I do on the components (so if I were to buy a Surly frameset as a winter beater I'd build it up with a mix of used and cheap stuff. And if I were to buy a Gunnar I probably wouldn't dress it up with Campy Record.).

I am actually in the same place-looking for a custom steel frame. (My latest bike is a Specialized Allez Cro-Mo which I love- it is a very comfortable rocket for fast club rides. But I also want a more laid back custom touring bike-naturally made of steel. ) I have a full Ultegra bike that I doesn't fit me so I will use those parts/wheels.
I have been looking at the less expensive custom steel bikes:$1200-$1400. I can actually afford anything out there but I honestly believe you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between the vast majority of custom frames (from good framebuilders)-given similar materials. I don't need the prestige name on my bike so i go this route.
After you narrow in on a price range you can select several framebuilders and then call them or email them- if they don't give you the time of day then forhet 'em and find someone who is willing to talk and discuss your needs

I ignore the component cost as I always build with either Chorus or Record (depending on the quality and chi-chi value of the frame.) And, I generally use the same products for saddle, post, bar and tires.

So most of my concentration is on frame price, and I do have some personal "obscenity thresholds." I have a really hard time spending more than $2000 on a frame. To that end, I shop a lot on eBay or I look for close-outs. I don't have any emprical data to derive that number, it's simply that there are so many good choices - both rack and custom - between $1000 and $2000 that I cannot bring myself to go over. Of course, I'm currently waiting on a custom Davidson in Ti that did in fact exceed that limit by a lot.

The one thing I never consider is the overall price. Using the same components and applying a ceiling to the frame almost always means the bike is going to come in between $1500 and $3000 - a range I can live with.

Yes, but I'm wondering how YOU approach this.

For me it pretty much has to be a US hand built steel frame if it's gonna be my main ride. In this case I think there are diminishing returns after the $1500 mark, unless you are talking about something really special like a Richard Sachs. In general I like to spend about the same amount on a frame as I do on the components (so if I were to buy a Surly frameset as a winter beater I'd build it up with a mix of used and cheap stuff. And if I were to buy a Gunnar I probably wouldn't dress it up with Campy Record.).


my last 3 bike purchases (8 year period) have been around $3k, frame and components regardless of income level. If frame costs more i tend to down grade components. Still haven't owned a bike that had more than a chorus bb and headset, everything else was below that, centaur/daytona/veloce groupset. i value the frame more than the components. I've set an imaginary $1k limit for a used bike purchases from eBay. it's levels i'm comfortable with, keeps me from agonizing over the "did i spend to much" voices. currently lusting over an IF Jewel (one's on eBay). Curtlo, Steelman, Vanilla, Landshark, Sachs, all worthy of consideration on next new purchase, probably can't afford a Sachs or unwilling to wait 12 + months to see it. i can only justify owning 2 bikes while some on the board have many more. It's the constant desire to tweak your current standard (lust)......planning for the spring?

For me it usally starts with how much disposable income I have to spend on said bike. After that I zero in on what I can get for that.

The first step is that I decide what I want a frame to do. After that, I'll start gathering information on all the frames that will fit me, that fit into step #1. For example, if I'm looking for a road race bike, I'll look at many frames with a 58 top tube, and discard the ones that the head tube is too short or if the frame is too stiff. After that, I'll group them by price, paint job, and finally by being not "run of the mill." For example, I would never buy a Trek. Not because there is anything wrong with them, but because there are damn too many of them.
Everybody is different. Some people need an "Ego bike", some don't. Some feel that they need the "best" components on their bike, some don't. Some people would be happy with 105 components on their bike, some people would feel "funny" riding around on a 105 bike.

Just curious. Do you decide what you want to spend on components first? I'm mostly asking about NEW purchases...

When I used to race it was Chorus and any good aluminum frame under $1500. Now I'm not racing, and it's C-Record and frames starting at $2500 (Wilier Izoard now). You would have to be a jac#$ss (or very rich) to spend 3.5K on a Colnago C-50 and risk destruction in a local crit!

You would have to be a jac#$ss (or very rich) to spend 3.5K on a Colnago C-50 and risk destruction in a local crit!
If you can afford a C-50 you should be able to get a Dream to race.

I'm in agreement with the poster above. First I start with the fact that I know that the bike will have Chorus on it. Then I know what Bars and saddle I want. Next is the top tube length that I need. After that it is narrowing down the frame choices. I love carbon fiber, so all my choices tend to go that way. When I chose my LOOK KG361, it was based on the geometry and the fact that it is carbon.
For example, I am saving up for a LOOK 585 (now that I too don't race anymore). By the time I get enough money to pay for it (2 years) there will probably be something else out there, but it has the characteristics that I am looking for.
Also in agreement with the race vs just ride. If you race, don't spend more then $1500 on your frame. One good crash and it is all gone.
For Cross bikes, I have one criteria after proper fit, and that is CHEAP. I commute on the thing, ride it off road, in the salt, etc. My Redline Conquest was $290 shipped to my home for frame, fork and headset. If it breaks or sits around dirty for a few days, it doesn't bother me as much since the investment into it wasn't so much.
For my mtn bike (yes I know this is RBR) I went with the fit, light, cheap, and bought a Specialized Stumpjumper for $1050. The frame alone retails for $600 and so does the fork. So it was like getting a complete build kit for free.
Lastly, I also like to stray for the ordinary on my road bikes. Nobody else that I raced with has the KG 361. Out of the typical 75-100 rider Cat. 3 field, I would say there was 3 of us on LOOKS all season. I like that.

Hi Henry,
Thanks for another interesting post. I am currently going through some anxiety regarding price versus components versus frame. It's a difficult thing to balance. I have always thought of $X as a maximum price, but since this next bicycle will probably be my last dream roadie for a while, much consideration is going into my final decision. Should I go a little higher on the frame? I have been researching framemakers and materials for the last few months and the field is beginning to get narrowed down. Chorus will be plenty for me for my level of riding, maybe even too much, but what the heck. Keep those posts coming!
Cheers, Wayne

A good rule of thumb that I've heard and found to work fairly well is that the frame, typically, should be about 1/3 the cost of your total bike budget. Of course some people like to sink a little more $$ into the frame to allow for a better platform to upgrade later. Personally I am the kind of person who investes in great components and awesome wheels, and then changes frames often. I think that most people overlook the wheels on a bike, you definantely want to save plenty of $$ in your budget for a good set of wheels.

There is a direct correlation between penis size the how much one pays for a bike frame. I am convinced those who pay less are better endowed.

There is a direct correlation between penis size the how much one pays for a bike frame. I am convinced those who pay less are better endowed.


B.S. I just bought a frame with carbon fork and headset for $400 and my p**ker is as small as ever. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

There is a direct correlation between penis size the how much one pays for a bike frame. I am convinced those who pay less are better endowed.
I don't even want to know how/why you collected the data - too much information! :p

Modern bikes, if properly maintained have an expected lifespan on the order of decades. So you can use that info to rationalize an arbitrarily expensive bike/frame by using a financial model that amortizes the expense over just such a time horizon. So just buy what you like...

I was told an interesting thing many years ago. The number of miles you ride in a year should the max you'd pay for a frameset. DOn't know if it works, but my formula goes something like this.

income-(exp+savings+rrsp+other payments+taxes)=money left

now money left is often greatly influenced by the WIFE factor. WIFE factor swings either way so in order to buy BIKE oftem alot of the MONEY LEFT is spent on WIFE. More expensive the BIKE is the more WIFE needs MONEY LEFT to feel important, thus reducing MONEY LEFT and reducing the price of BIKE.

Its a bad circle. Easiest way to get around this is not tell her the real price of your bike and pay cash if she balances the books.

Thats just for laughs though. Realistically since I'm not pro rider, it would be hard for me to spend more then 3-4,000 on a frameset (retail) no matter how much I ride it.