I'm looking for opinions and suggestions.
This is a 70’s Gitane Tour de France. Lugged 531 Reynolds construction.
I plan on building this as a single speed. It has 120mm rear dropout spacing.

http://i21.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/6a/9b/0b_3.JPG
http://i21.ebayimg.com/01/i/03/6a/9b/19_12_sb.JPG
http://i4.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/6a/d3/6c_3.JPG

What do you think?
Has some rust, so I need finishing suggestions.
What kind of wheel build?

Your's is a better frame than mine. I Have 2 Gitanes, 1 complete (as a "frankenbike, circa early 80's) and one that's around your vintage, except it's a cheaper Gitane. I'm doing the same-fixed gear. I'm useing the hubs that came with it and using an adapter for the freewheel to use it as a fixed. Good luck on the build-can't say I helped you but just thought I'd share :)

My first "real" bike was a Gitane Tour de France, just like yours. A 1971, I think. To be honest, the componentry that was standard on the machine wasn't all that high-end. The simplex derailleurs were crummy. The brakes were mid-level Mafac centerpulls.The only truly groovy component that was standard is the one that's already on your bike, the StrongLight crankset. Thus, outfit the bike with anything decent you can get your hands on, and have fun riding it. I just hope all that rust isn't going to put you in any danger.

A guy who worked at my shop eons ago left his Gitane TDF there. Unfortunatly he spray painted it then re installed stickers and it looks horrible now. I want it cause the frame is soild and like you will flip flop fix gear it due to the long drop out. Plus is has OG Campy and Dura-Ace on it that I want to clean up and keep for my collection.

I built up a Gitane TdF single speed. I posted some pictures of the stripped frame on this forum. I decided that the lugged steel, the small diameter tubes, the chrome stays and fork ends, and the classic geometry was all the heritage I cared about, so I did not attempt to restore decals and colors. I stripped my frame and had it powder coated red, then my wife (who is much more skilled than I am) outlined the lugs with 18K gold leaf. I'm delighted with the results. My wife now wants lugged steel.

The frame is great for fixed gear/single speed because it has no braze-ons and has long horizontal dropouts. If you use a flip flop you might be able to have a 3 tooth difference in gears.

I tried fixed gear, but I'm just not tough enough or skilled enough to handle a fixed gear in the hills around St. Louis. And I love to coast downhill. The single speed freewheel works great for me.

I built up a Gitane TdF single speed. I posted some pictures of the stripped frame on this forum. I decided that the lugged steel, the small diameter tubes, the chrome stays and fork ends, and the classic geometry was all the heritage I cared about, so I did not attempt to restore decals and colors. I stripped my frame and had it powder coated red, then my wife (who is much more skilled than I am) outlined the lugs with 18K gold leaf. I'm delighted with the results. My wife now wants lugged steel.

The frame is great for fixed gear/single speed because it has no braze-ons and has long horizontal dropouts. If you use a flip flop you might be able to have a 3 tooth difference in gears.

I tried fixed gear, but I'm just not tough enough or skilled enough to handle a fixed gear in the hills around St. Louis. And I love to coast downhill. The single speed freewheel works great for me.
I am probably going to do the same.
Did you keep the chrome bits chromed, or were they powdercoated as well?
What did you use to strip it?

I am probably going to do the same.
Did you keep the chrome bits chromed, or were they powdercoated as well?
What did you use to strip it?

I used citri-strip. The active ingredients are N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone and limoene. It sounds terrible, but these chemicals are quite innocuous. Just wear rubber gloves and have good ventilation. I rubbed it on with steel wool, waited for about 15 minutes, then used steel wool to remove the paint. I used a steel brush on the lug areas. I did a little each night for a week. You could also pay to have it bead blasted.

I kept the chrome fork ends and stays. My chrome was in pretty good shape.

Post some pics of the brazing work after you get it stripped. It will be interesting to compare the brazer's workmanship.

Why strip the paint? If you intend to have it powdercoated they will take care of the stripping. I've had two powdercoat jobs done for $50 each. They took care of all the prep work and the jobs were great. One week turn around, too!

Why strip the paint? If you intend to have it powdercoated they will take care of the stripping. I've had two powdercoat jobs done for $50 each. They took care of all the prep work and the jobs were great. One week turn around, too!

The guy I used didn't have bead blasting or sand blasting available. I had to bring him a bare metal frame. Stripping paint isn't fun. i agree you should avoid it if you can

I think the frame is more than worthy of a restore. I love old Gitane's! Clean up and keep the Stronglight's if you can as well.

You will probably need to get the LBS to re-tap the pedal threads to 9/16 as 14MM was the standard. The headset is not English but French and the threads on the Fork are 25MM. The BB is French and the drive side is a RH thread as is the left side. If the der hanger is not threaded, you can run the correct tap into the hole with no drilling. This is all been proven on my old TdF of similar vintage. It was a wonderful ride!

You will probably need to get the LBS to re-tap the pedal threads to 9/16 as 14MM was the standard. The headset is not English but French and the threads on the Fork are 25MM. The BB is French and the drive side is a RH thread as is the left side. If the der hanger is not threaded, you can run the correct tap into the hole with no drilling. This is all been proven on my old TdF of similar vintage. It was a wonderful ride!

The pedal threads have already been tapped and the headset is new.
I'm not sure about the BB condition - I may be going with a Phil Wood for the replacement.
I'm going to go singlespeed/fixie with a flip flop hub, so no worries on the rear der. hanger, which isn't there.
My questions to you:
-Is it reasonable to expect the LBS to have the correct tools to work on the cranks?
-I've heard a little about 'different' brakes being used with this bike - Can you shed any light?
-What type of brake hoods would be good?
-Is there anything unusual/uncommon about wheels that I should know?

For those of you that have this frame - Can you post some pictures of your completed bike?
Thanks!

The pedal threads have already been tapped and the headset is new.
I'm not sure about the BB condition - I may be going with a Phil Wood for the replacement.
I'm going to go singlespeed/fixie with a flip flop hub, so no worries on the rear der. hanger, which isn't there.
My questions to you:
-Is it reasonable to expect the LBS to have the correct tools to work on the cranks?
-I've heard a little about 'different' brakes being used with this bike - Can you shed any light?
-What type of brake hoods would be good?
-Is there anything unusual/uncommon about wheels that I should know?

For those of you that have this frame - Can you post some pictures of your completed bike?
Thanks!

LBS should have the tools, removal of the RH BB cup may be tricky. Make sure that you tell them it is a right hand thread. I got by for years by cleaning the cup while it was still in the frame. You will want them to install a internal plastic sleeve to keep contamination away from the bearings. That was not a standard thing with the Stronglight BB. The standard short reach brakes of today will just barely reach the rims. The cross piece that the rear brake bolts to will require drilling to use an allen nut retainer. You will need to drill the back of the fork for the same reason.