Normally, I just put a large level on the saddle from the nose to the rear, but I am trying out a new cutout saddle and, since the groove goes all the way to the back, putting a level on the whole saddle doesn't seem right. I angled the level so it was resting on the nose and a high spot on the rear - is this right?

Works for my saddle, anyway. Make sure your bike is sitting level first.
If you have a straight top tube check it with the level, or you could check the level from hub center to hub center. Then level the saddle.

I have a 1'x1' piece of plywood that I center on top of the saddle, then put the level on top of that. :)



Normally, I just put a large level on the saddle from the nose to the rear, but I am trying out a new cutout saddle and, since the groove goes all the way to the back, putting a level on the whole saddle doesn't seem right. I angled the level so it was resting on the nose and a high spot on the rear - is this right?

Depends on the saddle, but for most saddles that are curved on top, I only level the front half of the saddle. The back half may tilt up a little.

You need to have a saddle and saddle position that has your sit bones on the butt of the saddle. If your saddle nose is tipped down too far, it may cause you to slide forward. If it is tipped up too far, it may be causing pressure. And if you can't get things right in between these points, it may be that you are not sitting in the right spot or that the saddle doesn't fit you. IME, the range of saddle tilt goes from "nose level" to saddle level. Nose level means that for most saddles, the butt of the saddle is elevated (this is how I ride). Saddle level means that a level placed on the saddle would have the nose and butt level, which may create a hammock effect in the middle. Your personal comfort has to rule on where to place things in this range. Also, fore/aft position can influence comfort - it is a trade between pedaling style and the how much you lean on the bars vs. sit on the saddle.

I used to go through great pains to level my saddles out. You would think that you would want the nose and rear to be at the same height, but it makes a difference in the construction of the saddle and how you have it positioned on your bike. Most saddles are concaved or dipped, that's where you want to postion your butt. It also depends on the way the nose is shaped, as when you slide back from a start or standing position you don't want the nose to snag on your cycling shorts. I have my nose tilted down about 1 degree on my San Marco Rolls, not enough to notice from looking. I have sheetrock walls in my garage. I can draw two lines from a level, one from the nose and one from the rear, then place a level on the two lines and see if they match. I just found the best way (for me) was to start off level, then fine tune as you ride. Some guys like a slight downward tilt, some aft, no way to tell unless you do a little experimenting...it also depends on if you like to ride in one spot, or use the entire length of the saddle and scoot back and forth...and if the saddle shape does not match your anatomy in the first place, nothing will make it work, level or not...

I agree with leveling with the front half (and then fine tuning from their with feel). I have a Flite saddle with a high back end. The level across the entire seat does not work because of the high back end.

Depends on the saddle, but for most saddles that are curved on top, I only level the front half of the saddle. The back half may tilt up a little.

Some saddles are quite curved and required the saddle to be tilted to create a low spot near the middle, while other are quite flat and leveling may be appropriate. About all you can do is take you best guess and get on the saddle. If it's tilted down too much, you'll usually get an immediate sliding forward feeling. If it's tilted up too much, you'll get unwelcome pressure in the crotch, particularly when riding in the drops.

Most of the saddle I've used worked pretty well with the nose pretty much level. With my Fizik Gobi, the nose needs to be about 1/2 inch lower than the tail, because the tail kicks up quite a bit.

hard cover book.

Some saddles are quite curved and required the saddle to be tilted to create a low spot near the middle, while other are quite flat and leveling may be appropriate. About all you can do is take you best guess and get on the saddle. If it's tilted down too much, you'll usually get an immediate sliding forward feeling. If it's tilted up too much, you'll get unwelcome pressure in the crotch, particularly when riding in the drops.

Most of the saddle I've used worked pretty well with the nose pretty much level. With my Fizik Gobi, the nose needs to be about 1/2 inch lower than the tail, because the tail kicks up quite a bit.
...Arione.The back is much higher than the nose so if I level it from nose to tail the nose is tilted up quite a bit.I level mine from approximately where the saddle starts to curve up near the rear to the nose.It seems to work for me.

Yeah, well . . .

Somewhere around "level" is probably pretty close to the right position for a saddle, but the real adjustment comes from getting the bones in the pelvis properly supported so you're not sliding forward and not getting pressure against the pubis which cuts off circulation, pinches nerves and otherwise creates discomfort.

Of all the adjustments available on a bike, saddle position is probably the most crucial. It can't be done with a level, a line on the sheetrock, laser beams. It needs to be done by riding and paying attention to where you're sitting on the saddle and if moving the saddle position will provide better support.

Lots of this depends on your riding style. I tend to ride on the upper parts of the bars a lot and so the nose of my saddle is probably a bit higher than for someone who is racing on the drops.

But a level won't tell you anything except the aspect of the saddle relative to horizontal.

You need to have a saddle and saddle position that has your sit bones on the butt of the saddle. If your saddle nose is tipped down too far, it may cause you to slide forward. If it is tipped up too far, it may be causing pressure. And if you can't get things right in between these points, it may be that you are not sitting in the right spot or that the saddle doesn't fit you. IME, the range of saddle tilt goes from "nose level" to saddle level. Nose level means that for most saddles, the butt of the saddle is elevated (this is how I ride). Saddle level means that a level placed on the saddle would have the nose and butt level, which may create a hammock effect in the middle. Your personal comfort has to rule on where to place things in this range. Also, fore/aft position can influence comfort - it is a trade between pedaling style and the how much you lean on the bars vs. sit on the saddle.

Sorry to jump into this in the middle of your discussion, but I am confused. If a saddle has its nose higher or lower than its back, how can it be adjudged as level? Level, as in the bubble is in the middle of the lines, would mean that the the two ends of the object being leveled (in this case, the saddle) are on the exact same plane. Anything different than that would mean it is out of level, as in the bubble does not sit between the lines.

OTOH, if my personal comfort has to rule, why would it matter if the saddle is level or not? Perhaps my sit bones naturally tilt forward - then a level saddle would actually be pointed up (on a relative basis) and there would be too much pressure on my front, causing numbness and irritation, and perhaps a whole range of maladies that should not be discussed in public conversation. If my sit bones tilt backwards, then the "level" saddle would be pointed relatively downward, causing me to slide forward and having to put too much pressure on my arms, wrists and hands, leading to more numbness in different areas.

I am certain you can see the consternation that this discussion is causing me. Should I let the level rule, or should I let my comfort rule? I know that fit is important, and since I am not racing, I don't know how critical this all is. But it feels like I am missing out on something very important.

Thanks!

Yeah, well . . .

Somewhere around "level" is probably pretty close to the right position for a saddle, but the real adjustment comes from getting the bones in the pelvis properly supported so you're not sliding forward and not getting pressure against the pubis which cuts off circulation, pinches nerves and otherwise creates discomfort.

Of all the adjustments available on a bike, saddle position is probably the most crucial. It can't be done with a level, a line on the sheetrock, laser beams. It needs to be done by riding and paying attention to where you're sitting on the saddle and if moving the saddle position will provide better support.

Lots of this depends on your riding style. I tend to ride on the upper parts of the bars a lot and so the nose of my saddle is probably a bit higher than for someone who is racing on the drops.

But a level won't tell you anything except the aspect of the saddle relative to horizontal.

Hey, that's sort what I wanted to say but you have a bettter way with words than I.

I am certain you can see the consternation that this discussion is causing me. Should I let the level rule, or should I let my comfort rule? I know that fit is important, and since I am not racing, I don't know how critical this all is. But it feels like I am missing out on something very important.

Thanks!
This is obsessive roadiespeak here. You mean you don't have a designated 1x1 piece of plywood to see if your saddle is level? For shame!

As a former MTBer switching to Road, I'm learning the critical importance of these things, even though I'm not planning to race or anything.

Poo on you.

OTOH, if my personal comfort has to rule, why would it matter if the saddle is level or not? Perhaps my sit bones naturally tilt forward - then a level saddle would actually be pointed up (on a relative basis) and there would be too much pressure on my front, causing numbness and irritation, and perhaps a whole range of maladies that should not be discussed in public conversation. If my sit bones tilt backwards, then the "level" saddle would be pointed relatively downward, causing me to slide forward and having to put too much pressure on my arms, wrists and hands, leading to more numbness in different areas.
Thanks!
I thought that that bolt thingy (I think its a bolt)-wasn't supposed to be tight....you see if you're getting jostled around wouldn't you want the...ummm...(seat?) to move with you?; instead of you hopping around on the seat (they are calles 'seats' right?)) and getting sore?

could you all please clear our confusions up please?-by the way are those cycling shorts really that important?It's way important for me to look way hip with my hommies with my saggin' jeans.

-thanks

PS-OES-I too am in the process of assimilating all this knowledge.

I thought that that bolt thingy (I think its a bolt)-wasn't supposed to be tight....you see if you're getting jostled around wouldn't you want the...ummm...(seat?) to move with you?; instead of you hopping around on the seat (they are calles 'seats' right?)) and getting sore?

could you all please clear our confusions up please?-by the way are those cycling shorts really that important?It's way important for me to look way hip with my hommies with my saggin' jeans.

-thanks

PS-OES-I too am in the process of assimilating all this knowledge.
who cares if it's jammed up your ass sideways? Git a damn piece of plywood and check it out and SHUT UP. We're doing roadiespeak here, now.

who cares if it's jammed up your ass sideways? Git a damn piece of plywood and check it out and SHUT UP. We're doing roadiespeak here, now. Jeez-I ask a simple questions and all I get is a 'Shut Up'???, how am I ever going to learn these things if I can't get answers? OES-Take your roadie speak and politely &^*%$ it.

BTW-how do I lace a wheel 46 cross with spec edition 19 hole Bontrager hubs?

inquiring minds neeed to know.

If it's tilted up too much, you'll get unwelcome pressure in the crotch, particularly when riding in the drops.


Glad I came upon this post...This is what I was getting when in the drops.
So, are the sit bones considered your perineum? Most books/articles on fitting I've seen say that your perineum should be supporting most of your weight.

Lou.

So, are the sit bones considered your perineum? Most books/articles on fitting I've seen say that your perineum should be supporting most of your weight.

Your sit bones are the ischial tuberosities - if you reach around behind and push your fingers into your buttocks, you'll feel the bones that you "sit on." This is NOT the perineum, and whoever advised that your perineum should bear the weight is out of their frickin' mind. It is specifically the perineum that should NOT be carrying weight, as this is where all the discomfort, numbness, and pressure are a problem.