After your own person and wheels, what are the top 3 best places to lose weight on the bike. Crank, cassette, tires/tubes, chain...?

After your own person and wheels, what are the top 3 best places to lose weight on the bike. Crank, cassette, tires/tubes, chain...?
Any way to lighten the rotating parts is probably best. Thus tires and tubes. Of course you may get light then have a bunch of flats.

Soon it comes down to the nickel and dime method, a few grams here, a few there, and the cost per benefit goes on an exponential curve.

either

Buddhism

or

Hair Club for Men

After your own person and wheels, what are the top 3 best places to lose weight on the bike. Crank, cassette, tires/tubes, chain...?

First, this will depend on the specifics of your current set-up. If things are out of balance, then you look at whatever is significantly "lower" in quality/performance compared to the other stuff. However, if things are pretty well balanced, then upgrades are best done when something wears out. Otherwise, you run the risk of putting racing tires on a Ford Escort. Looks flashy but it's a complete waste of money.

After your own person and wheels, what are the top 3 best places to lose weight on the bike. Crank, cassette, tires/tubes, chain...?

After you, your wheels and your frame:
( tack the phrase "depending on what you have now" onto each recommendation.)

Fork - 100g or more
Tires - lightest clincher I've found, Veloflex Record - 100g per tire lighter than most
Crank - 100-150g
Pedals - if you're using Look, Speedplays weight 100g less per pedal
Saddle - 50-100g
Post - 50g
Stem - Syntace - 25-100g less

Unless you would like to upgrade your frame and wheels (in that order) ,Your next step MAY be to upgrade your fork. If you have an older, more flexible, or otherwise outdated fork, a new fork can make a HUGE difference in terms of ride quality, handling, and power transfer. IMHO
the Mizuno forks on Fondriest are among the best; as well as the Look HSC 4 or 5. The Reynolds seem to be good, but the Easton can have mixed opinions. A new fork can change the geometry; so check for differences.
Shoes and pedals can make a huge difference when comparing lower end to higher end products.A light shoe/pedal combo like a DMT/Look Keo will be a noticeable change from a heavier/less stiff setup.
Good Luck!

I guess it's time to be more specific...
I have an 04 Giant TCR Comp Team (already a light frame/fork) w/ full 9spd Ultegra, Look Keo, 3T Less stem and Bio Morphe bar. I'm going to go with Campy Record/Chorus. In order to ease the financial pain of this switch in what order can I buy and install components.
Things I wish for include:
Wheelset: Topolino, Eurus, other
Crank: Stronglight Pulsion

Is it possible to use the 9spd Ultegra crank with the Record Group (in hand) and Wheels Mfg cassette. Later on wheels and then crank?

I'm not going to skimp on the saddle. I love my Specialized Alias.

for the bike, I'd upgrade my wheels to reduce the rotational mass.

for myself:, I'd upgrade shoes...again. Shoes make a huge difference in comfort, which translate to performance. I would also upgrade to a nice pair of bibs. After wearing my team bibs, shorts cannot compare.

Topolino is an excellent wheelset; as well as being light and super stiff, they smooth out road shock like nothing I have ever tried. The Toplino is also very stable on high speed descents.
I'm not sure about the Ultegra crank and Campy setup; maybe find a record/chorus crank used and sell the Ultegra crank in the interim. I would recommend against an aftermarket cassette and go with a Centaur or even Veloce for super budget.
As far as cranks, the K-Force Mega Exo is worth a look; The Pulsion is lighter, but there may be an issue needing the Stronglight B.B. for the best interface, and these S.Light B.B.'s are expensive.Also
the FSA K-force looks ultra stiff and reliable and has external bearings that the big power mashers swear by.
And BTW how are those 3T Biomorph??? they look very nice at the corner and in the drop.

Thank you for the Topolino feedback, just what I wanted to hear. Damn those Eurus for being soooo sexy though.

From my understanding the SL was plain old Isis standard. No worries though as my LBS sells the BB too for $550/set. That's cheaper than Wise Cycle.

The Bio Morphe is a sweet bar and I have zero regrets not getting the FSA. My glove size is (usually) a Med and I wouldn't recommend them to anyone who regularly where's larger gloves. The bends are tight and my hands fit just perfectly. The range of positions is wonderful. I almost exclusively ride in the drops now which I always avoided before. If I'm not in the drops though I'm at those corners in one of seven postions. I have the 31.8 which is stiff as hell and no flex unlike my 26mm aluminum Cinelli. Highly recommended (can you tell). If you get it don't forget 3T measures outside to outside so get a size bigger.

I guess it's time to be more specific...
I have an 04 Giant TCR Comp Team (already a light frame/fork) w/ full 9spd Ultegra, Look Keo, 3T Less stem and Bio Morphe bar. I'm going to go with Campy Record/Chorus. In order to ease the financial pain of this switch in what order can I buy and install components.
Things I wish for include:
Wheelset: Topolino, Eurus, other
Crank: Stronglight Pulsion

Is it possible to use the 9spd Ultegra crank with the Record Group (in hand) and Wheels Mfg cassette. Later on wheels and then crank?

I'm not going to skimp on the saddle. I love my Specialized Alias.

you can use your crank with the Record group. if you don't absolutely have to change groupsets, the first thing to upgrade would normally be your wheels. however, if you're dead set on switching to Campy, then there's nothing to stop you. any 9s shimano crank will work with the record groupset. a 10s crank should do the same. you can even use a Shimano front derailleur with Campy shifters. if using Campy 10s, though, you should use a 10s (S or C) derailleur (I had some problems with a 9s S derailleur, dropping the chain between the rings on my DA 10 crankset with Campy 10 shifters).
for wheels, I might suggest Mike Garcia's Speedcifics. my set, 20/24 bladed spokes, alloy nipples, Speedcific hubs, came in at 1517g, which is lighter than the Eurus. it's probably more aero than the Topolinos (but heavier). the 30mm rim comes in at around 455g, and has a good profile. the set cost $389. shipped. having ridden Eurus wheels, the Speedcifics are less sexy but are just as fast. you'll save a fair bit of money!
as for the crank, the Stronglight will be pretty expensive. I would just go with the DA 10s. if cost also comes into the equation, carbon cranks may be a little lighter but not enough to justify the added expense. FSA's cranks, despite their initial claimed weights, all come in heavier than DA10. Campy's cranks are definitely lighter, but twice the price. Stronglight Pulsions use the ISIS interface, which has definitely been very dodgy on MTBs due to the small bearings. a few posters here have had no problems using ISIS on road bikes, though.