For years, I have been mountain biking, but recently I have decided to get into road biking. I am looking for a bike in the $1500 that has a comfortable ride and will not need to be replaced anytime soon. I plan on using the bike for getting back into shape, and later down the road triathlons. So far I have been looking at specialized, but am by no means set. Recently, I have been trying to decide whether to go ahead and spend the extra $ to buy a carbon fiber bike.

What do you think? What would you recommend?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

For years, I have been mountain biking, but recently I have decided to get into road biking. I am looking for a bike in the $1500 that has a comfortable ride...
I recently got back into cycling after a 20+ year hiatus, and at 51 and as largely a recreational/fitness rider I decided to go for a fairly comfortable ride. I chose a Trek Pilot 5.2 after looking at the Specialized Roubaix, the LeMond Zurich, and the Specialized Sequoia. Nice bikes all.

I have about 800 miles on the Pilot (all carbon w/ Ultegra 10 triple), and it's been very nice. I'm in the process of building an Airborne Thunderbolt (Al w/ Ultegra 10 triple) for the wrenching experience, and I will order an Airborne Zeppelin soon (Ti, also to be built up by me w/ Ultegra 10 triple). I am anxious to compare and contrast these frames. Curiosity, I suppose. Good luck with your entry into road biking! This is a great group of forums. - Jim

I'm in the same situation as you. Looking for a bike that I can keep for a while and put some miles on it. Several local bike shops recommended either a Bianchi or Lightspeed and it seems that Campy parts are a must because they are rebuildable if needed and for very little money. These same stores recommend steel over aluminum and if I have the money, step up to the carbon fiber Lightspeed.

I'm in the same situation as you. Looking for a bike that I can keep for a while and put some miles on it. Several local bike shops recommended either a Bianchi or Lightspeed and it seems that Campy parts are a must because they are rebuildable if needed and for very little money. These same stores recommend steel over aluminum and if I have the money, step up to the carbon fiber Lightspeed.

No offense but sounds like some shops are selling you what they have. A Litespeed is a bit of overkill for a first road bike. Bianchi makes some nice affordable road bikes. Trek, Specialized, Giant and Cannondale all make very nice first road bikes. Steel, Al, or Ti, it is what the manufacturer does with the material that counts- all of them have tradeoffs.

Now Campy makes very good stuff, but honestly so does Shimano. While the rebuildable nature of the Campy shifters is nice- it by no means should drive your decision.

The key thing finding a bike in your price range that fits you well and is comfortable. Also, hooking up with a good local bike shop that you trust is more important then saving a few bucks. On Shimano equipped bikes 105, Ultegra or Dura Ace are all good parts choices.
On Campy equipped bikes, Veloce, Centaur, Chorus or Record Equipped bikes are all very good as well.

Most people start out with something like a Specialized Allez or Cannondale R700- solid bikes which are durable, ride well and will do whatever you would like to try- touring, racing or just riding with your friends.

Ain't nothing Campy that qualifies as "very little money."

And by the time you're ready to rebuild shifters, you'll probably want a newer model and accompanying "improvements."

I had a Shimano 105 steel bike that lasted for years with almost no maintenance. Would have lasted longer if I hadn't ridden through a giant hole filled with wet cement in the middle of Varick Street.

I love my Record equipped custom Ti bike, but do you really want to spend > $6000 on your first bike?

Any bike that fits you properly will be fine. I don't like aluminum (aluminium if you're from across the pond) because my experience is with a Klein MTB that has a very jarring ride. If I had a Klein road bike, which wouldn't be built to withstand off road abuse, no doubt my opinion would be different.

Unfortunately, from what you've posted, the bike shop doesn't sound like they're terribly concerned with selling you the best bike for you. Can't blame them for wanting to make a profit. But nothing will make you quit riding faster than getting a bicycle that is a poor fit.


it seems that Campy parts are a must because they are rebuildable if needed and for very little money.

Good info...keep it coming.

So far, I have been looking at the Specialized Allex Elite Double on the lower end, and the Tarmac comp and the Dolce Expert on the higher end. I also have looked at comparable Trek bikes, but figure I have to ride them to make a decision. The LBS I went to also sells lightspeed, but did not even mention them after I told them my price range and what I was going to be using the bike for.

There are many good bikes in your price range. Go try them all :) and settle for the one that feels best.

Find a shop that specializes in bike fitting and tell them your price range. Don't worry much about frame material, almost any current bike will be great to ride as long as it fits and the shop you patronize takes the time to help you with the important stuff- finding the right saddle, bars, etc. It's becoming harder to find really bad riding bikes these days, and I've lately been amazed at how well most of the low end groups from both campy and shimano works.

Good info...keep it coming.

So far, I have been looking at the Specialized Allex Elite Double on the lower end, and the Tarmac comp and the Dolce Expert on the higher end. I also have looked at comparable Trek bikes, but figure I have to ride them to make a decision. The LBS I went to also sells lightspeed, but did not even mention them after I told them my price range and what I was going to be using the bike for.

Aflick, I currently own a Trek 2000. At the time the group they offered was Tiagra by Shimano. I always said if the Tiagra wears out I'll do the upgrade then. Its been 5 years now, and the Tiagra has yet to "wear out."

I have a LBS that I spend very little money in. Yet, when I left the bike on my roof rack and went through the car wash, or when I pulled into the parking garage, the LBS was there for me. Pretty much gave me the parts I needed. That kind of relationship is priceless.

My Trek came with a triple, and If I upgrade now I'd get the double. It'll stay in tune longer.

Good luck with your purchase! Buying a bike is like Christmas in June...

The key thing finding a bike in your price range that fits you well and is comfortable. Also, hooking up with a good local bike shop that you trust is more important then saving a few bucks. On Shimano equipped bikes 105, Ultegra or Dura Ace are all good parts choices.
On Campy equipped bikes, Veloce, Centaur, Chorus or Record Equipped bikes are all very good as well.


For anyone looking, read and re-read what Coolhand wrote about 10 times because this is more important than anything. You will not get a piece of junk bike from any major manufacture. Trek, Specialized, Giant, Fuji, LeMond, etc., all build competative bikes for their price point.

For years, I have been mountain biking, but recently I have decided to get into road biking. I am looking for a bike in the $1500 that has a comfortable ride and will not need to be replaced anytime soon. I plan on using the bike for getting back into shape, and later down the road triathlons. So far I have been looking at specialized, but am by no means set. Recently, I have been trying to decide whether to go ahead and spend the extra $ to buy a carbon fiber bike.

What do you think? What would you recommend?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Before taking a hard look at the differences between bikes in your price range, get into some shops and test ride. I would recommend choosing an LBS based on its knowledge of fitting and customer service and take it from there. The first thing I would figure out (when I worked for a shop) before discussing bike model options with a customer was the correct size. By far the most important thing.

If you have shoes and clipless pedals, bring them with you and have the shop install the pedals on the bike you want to test ride. They should be willing to check the seat position and should allow you to take the bike out for half an hour or longer. Be sure to bring your drivers license and a credit card, as most shops will hold those while you're out (we always did, we had some problems with theft).

Buying a bike is an important decision, so make sure you are satisfied with how the bike rides and handles, not just the jewelry hanging from it or the color options. The LBS of choice is also important. The ones that have a clear interest to help you get the best bike are generally the most knowledgeable and helpful. If a shop has this kind of good vibe, chances are you'll walk out satisfied.

-R

Focus on the overall ownership experience, rather than just your buying experience. That's why it's worth spending the extra $$$ to buy from a good, reputable, beginner-friendly local bike shop (LBS). Look in the regional forums and ask which LBSs are good. Nobody has said this yet, so I will: fit is really important in road bikes. Make sure that the LBS that you go to is trustworthy and competent enough to recommend bikes that actually fit you. I've seen too many bad examples.

What he said. Seriously, you don't need a Litespeed as a 1st bike. Check out the ones that are mentioned as well as Raleigh and Fuji. Both make real nice bikeas at that price point. Campy, schmampy, Shimano is fine. Most of these bikes will have shimano 105 or ultegra; all good, durable stuff. Happy hunting. Take your time.

Lots of really good advice here- thanks to the regulars!

New posters looking for a bike, please feel free to add your questions to this thread- even if you are worried if it is a "dumb" question or may have been answered before. That's what this forum is for. After all, we were all new to this at one time and someone helped us (or we wished they did).

:)

What type of frame should I be looking for (titanium, carbon fiber, aluminum, or steel)? From what I have heard, titanium frames are the best, just expensive, followed by carbon fiber, aluminum, and steel.

I know some of you say that they type of frame does not matter, but as far as I am concerned, I would rather buy a $2500 bike that I will absolutly love and have no urge to replace 2 years from now than buy a $1000-$1500 bike that is great, but will outgrow. From what I have heard, the frame is the most important aspect when cosidering what bike to buy...components can be replaced over time. I do realize that comfort is a huge factor, but I am assuming that I can find a comfortable bike no matter what the frame is made of.

What type of frame should I be looking for (titanium, carbon fiber, aluminum, or steel)? From what I have heard, titanium frames are the best, just expensive, followed by carbon fiber, aluminum, and steel.

I know some of you say that they type of frame does not matter, but as far as I am concerned, I would rather buy a $2500 bike that I will absolutly love and have no urge to replace 2 years from now than buy a $1000-$1500 bike that is great, but will outgrow. From what I have heard, the frame is the most important aspect when cosidering what bike to buy...components can be replaced over time. I do realize that comfort is a huge factor, but I am assuming that I can find a comfortable bike no matter what the frame is made of.
Each frame material has its good and bad points -- mostly good, by the way. They're all excellent. You really don't need to worry yourself unduly about it. As someone else said, for the money you're going to spend you WILL get a good bike. There aren't any 'bad' $1500 bikes out there. There are $1500 bikes that might not feel good to you, though, and that's the only issue you need concern yourself with.

The only truly relevant question is, do you feel good on it, is it comfy, does it please you and make you yearn to throw a leg over it? The only way you can know that is to ride 'em. Test ride a bunch. Winnow it down to the two or three that feel best to you, then buy the one that calls your name most seductively.

If someone handed me $1500 and said 'Go buy yourself a bike,' I'd get the Lemond Sarthe because I know from experience Lemonds suit my body and style, I prefer steel, the orange paint looks hot, and the Campy bits are kind of alluring. But there's dozen of equally good bikes at that price. Find yours.

Take a look at a Trek 2100. It's not a full carbon bike, but it does have carbon seat stays, seat post and forks. It really is a comfortable bike and fits nicely in your budget.

Each frame material has its good and bad points -- mostly good, by the way. They're all excellent. You really don't need to worry yourself unduly about it. As someone else said, for the money you're going to spend you WILL get a good bike. There aren't any 'bad' $1500 bikes out there. There are $1500 bikes that might not feel good to you, though, and that's the only issue you need concern yourself with.

The only truly relevant question is, do you feel good on it, is it comfy, does it please you and make you yearn to throw a leg over it? The only way you can know that is to ride 'em. Test ride a bunch. Winnow it down to the two or three that feel best to you, then buy the one that calls your name most seductively.

If someone handed me $1500 and said 'Go buy yourself a bike,' I'd get the Lemond Sarthe because I know from experience Lemonds suit my body and style, I prefer steel, the orange paint looks hot, and the Campy bits are kind of alluring. But there's dozen of equally good bikes at that price. Find yours.

Hey OldEdScott, did you have a nice mincemeat pie for breakfast? :-)

To add to Ed's excellent advice, whether you want to replace a bike or not is often a function of your vanity and has nothing to do with real performance gains. New riders who really gets into biking often want a new, hotter bike within a short period of time. So you should also consider just getting the cheapest beater bike that you can get, ride the hell out of it, and then make the real, informed purchase in a few months. Bikes are rather personal, so new riders have the additional advantage of not being tuned to what they will or will not like a few thousand miles down the ownership.

What type of frame should I be looking for (titanium, carbon fiber, aluminum, or steel)? From what I have heard, titanium frames are the best, just expensive, followed by carbon fiber, aluminum, and steel.

I know some of you say that they type of frame does not matter, but as far as I am concerned, I would rather buy a $2500 bike that I will absolutly love and have no urge to replace 2 years from now than buy a $1000-$1500 bike that is great, but will outgrow. From what I have heard, the frame is the most important aspect when cosidering what bike to buy...components can be replaced over time. I do realize that comfort is a huge factor, but I am assuming that I can find a comfortable bike no matter what the frame is made of.


Just to echo Ed and all of the others who have given some really great advice:

The material doesn't really matter all that much, it's what the framebuilder does with it. An aluminum bike can be more comfortable than a steel bike depending on how the builder does his thing.

Also another important point to bring up is that most of the major bike companies (Trek, Specialized, Lemond, Giant, Fuji, etc...) have a design ethos that they stick to. Like Ed said the Lemond idea of framebuilding (longer TT) fits him well and he knows that, while my body type fits the design of Giant's TCR series better than most others. So my point is don't just try out several bikes by one manufacturer, try out as many manufacturers as possible. Most likely you'll find one that builds to suit your tastes and become a loyal customer. That's what most of us have done as some point in time.

For $1500 you can find a really nice intro bike. Don't worry too much about upgrading componants and all that. Just buy as much bike as you can now and then upgrade as things break, or save up and buy a high end bike if that is the direction you go in. Don't buy the cheapest bike possible and plan on upgrading, that will often end up costing you more.

Also, one last thing, don't forget to include the cost of accessories in your budget. Even if you're coming from MTB, you'll probably want new shoes (road shoes have stiffer soles for better power transfer), and maybe some new kit as well.

Nobody has said this yet, so I will: fit is really important in road bikes. Make sure that the LBS that you go to is trustworthy and competent enough to recommend bikes that actually fit you. I've seen too many bad examples.

If you ride a lot, your comfortable riding position is very likely to change. As such, be certain that the seat, seat post, stem allow for adjusting to accomodate changes as you adapt to riding and learn what's comfy fo you. The stem should have spacers both above and below the stem so you can move it up or down. The seat should sit near the center of its fore/aft range so you can move it either way. The seat post should not be any where near the limit line or jammed all the way down into the seat tube.

A word about price. I just bought the most expensive bike I've ever bought, $2250 on a Specialized Roubaix Comp, and would have spent only 2K had they had an Elite in stock in my size. I've been riding 30+ years, it's what I love most, and I can afford to spend more. I just don't see any benefit.

Frame material? You will find experienced riders who swear by steel, by carbon, by aluminum, by titanium. I currently ride my old steel bike as much as my new carbon bike and every ride I always think, God I like this bike--no matter which one I'm on. I keep trying to decide which one has a more comfortable ride, and I can't. All things are not equal of course--the steel bike has wider tires and a softer saddle.

Service, warranty, a good LBS, and fit.

Find a good store that will keep working with you. Fit changes as you do more road cycling, you begin to stretch out, tilt your hips, and build core strength.

Oh yeah, and 25mm tires.

So my point is don't just try out several bikes by one manufacturer, try out as many manufacturers as possible.

Great Advice. I'm a newby. Can it be then that if a 59cm bike with one manufacturer fits you, from a different manufacturer you might feel more comfortable with a 60cm or a 57cm, 58cm?

Great Advice. I'm a newby. Can it be then that if a 59cm bike with one manufacturer fits you, from a different manufacturer you might feel more comfortable with a 60cm or a 57cm, 58cm?
Absolutely. Without going into the details, different manufacturers measure their seat tubes differently. So a 59 Lemond, say, might equal a 61 Trek (or whatever). The only way to really know if it fits it to try it on, just like shoes or pants.

Each frame material has its good and bad points -- mostly good, by the way. They're all excellent. You really don't need to worry yourself unduly about it.Agree mostly, but there are circumstances under which I would give it some thought. For year-round riders in rainy climates or places where road salt is used, I would pick AL over steel. For riders who are clutzy or must lock (or just leave) their bikes in high traffic areas, I would recommend a sturdy steel bike over AL or CF.

...and I'm not gonna contradict any of it. What you need to do first is think about your basic size. I have a hard time relating to compact frames, but in standard geometry, I know I'm basically a 54 center to top and a 53 center to center. Can I ride a 52...or a 55 or even a 56? Sure, but it's not optimal. Do a search in the [larger] discussion and you'll find some good frame sizing info. After you get a frame size that works...well, an individual bike is going to have different geometry, tube lengths, and so forth, so you get into the fine tuning with crank length, seat position, bar width, stem length, and so forth.

I know what you're thinking...Why is he telling me all this? Well, it's so that when you do a test ride at your local LBS, for example, you know what your optimal frame size is...try not to demo anything seriously outside that size...there is one other way to buy a first bike (if you get hooked, you'll be buying a second, a third, and so on...), which is to pick something spiffy and attractively priced in your frame size on Ebay...and then eat the upgrade costs if you have to change out stems, seats, wheels, and so forth. Or there's some places online with great prices like Randall Scott Cycle...Sierra Trading Post sells bikes, of all things, for cheap. Are you taking a chance with this? Yep, if you don't know what you're looking for, or if you don't have somebody with some experience helping you out...like this forum! On the other hand, are you going to get the perfect bike? Probably not, but (a) there is no such thing and (b) you're just getting into being a roadie, so it's gonna be hard, at the outset, to know what's an optimal bike for you. Going to your LBS is probably the safest path...and one thing you'll find out is that they have sales, too. Here in Colorado, Bicycle Village is a pretty reliable chain, and they have a bunch of 2003/2004 stock on sale right now for pretty outrageous prices...

So listen to everybody's advice, but as the folks at Excel Sports say "Don't forget to get out and ride..."

The biggest mistake most cyclists make is to compare bikes by "frame size." Don't!!!! Compare bikes by effective toptube length and headtube length (if you want to be really anal throw seat tube angle in there). This eliminates the issues of trying to figure out things like why a lemond 59cm fits so much larger than a trek 59cm frame (Hint, a 59cm Lemond has the same toptube length as a 62cm Trek and longer than a 63cm Trek Pilot). Headtube length is important because when comparing two bikes you may find that both have the same reach (toptube length + stem length), but different headtube lengths which will make the bar higher or lower when using the same amount of spacers.

Seat tube length (frame size) has no importance in fitting, unless you phsically cannot lower the seat enough for the bike to fit. So to answer the question about fitting compact frames, you don't worry if it is a compact or traditional because the Seat Tube length is irrelevant.

Finally, check past posts by C-40 for very detailed information about fitting.

First off, kudos to RBR for starting this forum. It's a long time coming.

Like most of you contemplating your first road bike purchase, I recently (two years ago) switched over from riding an MTB for many years to a road bike as I found as I was riding mostly roads. Like most of you, I became enamored with materials,components, buyers guides and the chi-chi factor and made the mistake of buying a really great used Litespeed Classic (from the classifieds on this forum) as my first road bike. If you don't know, the Classic is just what it's name implies, titanium traditional road bike geometry with a flat top tube and has been around a long time with the same setup (apparently Lance used to ride one in the early '90s). I had had a general fitting done so I knew in general the size I wanted. The thing was beautiful and I got a great deal on it but guess what? I hated it. I rode it for three months and always had back pain, neck pain, etc. So I sold it and had another fitting done and the fitter recommended that because I have a longer torso, I should go with a bike with a longer top tube and probably a compact geometry (sloping top tube, longer head tube) as this would be similar to my MTB setup (putting me into a more upright position similar to an MTB) and wouldn't be such a radical departure for me. So I bought a Lemond Zurich (spine bike) which is known for their longer top tubes and a slight compact geometry. Long story short, I've put about 3K miles on it and absolutely love it. No pain, a joy to ride.

Now, is the Zurich a "better bike" than the Classic? No, I'm the first to admit it. The Classic is a great bike. But the Zurich is a better bike FOR ME. I personally like the ride of steel better than titanium. I place a premium on comfort and that is what the Zurich is known for (still plenty fast). Don't fall into the trap that because some bike is titanium or carbon or has a Dura Ace rear derailleur or because Lance rides a Trek or whatever it is a better bike. Any of the bigger names that you are going to buy from a reputable bike shop (Trek, Specialized, Bianchi, Lemond, Giant, etc.) are going to be well made and are going to hold up well and typically will last you for years. You're not going to get ripped off buying one of these bikes-they are not going to fall apart. I know you want to apply the logic of buying a car to buying a bike but they are very different purchases-no one bike has a better "reliability record" or other objective factor than another as there is with a car. Also, don't listen to the "buyer's guides": All of them have different "Best Bike for under $2K" or whatever. The key factor is which rides better TO YOU and fits better TO YOU. Many people say all bikes ride the same, but my experience as a newbie was they all felt very different to me. For me a Cannondale or Kestrel rode very differently from a Bianchi or a Lemond. Is one bike better than another? No. At a certain price point, none are "better than the other." Same with materials: Some people think alumimun, which most people feel have a harsh ride but are quick while steel has a better ride but is a little sluggish. Not true, some aluminum bikes have a better ride than steel.

The point is that there is no one perfect bike for everybody. Get a good fitting done (look for dealers who use the Fit Kit or have a Serotta custom sizing bike) and have him recommend the geometry/dimensions which would be best for you based on your body measurements and the type of riding you want to do, compare that to the manufacturer's geometries in the back of their catalogs or web sites, and then ride everything in that size and price range. Many people say that test rides are worthless but I found them to be invaluable and instantly knew when I had found my bike. Only you know what you are looking for, and when, after you've ridden 20 bikes and you finally throw your leg over THE ONE and start pedaling and find yourself smiling from ear to ear, you'll know instantly you found it. Welcome to the dark side.

Hope this helps. Happy Hunting.

One thought is that if you think you want to work toward racing at some point, or at least serious group rides and the like, think about buying a bike with a top-notch frame that has slightly lower end components. For instance, the CAAD7 frame on the R700 is an excellent race frame. If you get more serious about things, you can upgrade to Dura Ace or Record groups down the road, throw on some new high end wheels and you're essentially riding a pro level bike.

If you have the time.....
Educate yourself on the finer points of fit and frame geometry......as mentioned above, the posts by C-40 will be very helpful in understanding how frame sizing really works.
Ask yourself what qualities you are looking for in a frame; Stiffness,comfort,durability,
price and geometries, and then find out what experienced riders are saying about the frame you may be interested in, and how it may compare to other frames. Also, consider the roads you will be riding on; are they very smooth?, or will you need a more compliant frame to offset road abnormalities and vibration? (you can have a super stiff frame with a very smooth ride,but you will pay a premium for these qualities) And finally, will you be doing alot of descending? The descending record of a particular frame can be a safety issue if you live in the mtns.
As mentioned above, frame/fork(#1)-there are alot of low quality flexy forks out there on low/mid range bikes; forks are very,very important!, wheels(#2)- many pre-built bikes come with junk wheels-so watch out! and other components down the line in importance.
For example, Colorado Cyclist has their "house" brand Douglas Fusion(made by Lightspeed in the U.S.A.) for $1799- no tax, free shipping. The downside-low resale value
and specialty wheels (non ordinary spokes etc.) The upside-high quality frame,wheels, and components at a bargain price.
A used bike with low miles can be the best value if you know what you want, and can forego warranties, and LBS services. If you do choose to go to a shop; make sure of their reputation; I for one have been misled by a shop carrying more top end equipment than I thought possible under one roof, yet their service and build quality/frame prep was not good.
Good Luck!

for Bianchi, I'm a MTBer myself and this is my first real road bike. I got hooked up with a Giro triple for around $1200 and everyone I know thinks its money well spent (They retail for about $1600), full 105 components, carbon fiber fork and seat stays (VERY NICE!!!!).

I bought this bike at 10pm on the eve of a 2 day 180k tour (BAD IDEA) and I was very apprehensive about taking her on her maiden voyage under such circumstances without really getting a chance to get to know the bike better. I was just amazed at how smooth the bike was, I mean the thing tracks like its on rails even when leaning through corners and flying downhill at 42mph (yet another bad idea), the carbon fiber components really make a difference as well.

As for frame material, I prefer alum cos I think they just feel faster but I've heard steel is more comfortable for longer rides. The advice I got from the LBS was "if you're gonna be doing centuries and stuff, you might want to look at steel but if you're going to be doing mostly 30-50k rides alum might be a wiser choice". All this said, nothing beats a test ride so go out and ride.