View Full Version : Looks like a decent place to ask about seats.
culdeus 05-20-2005, 10:02 AM I've been slowly upgrading my road bike. It came with a rock hard leather seat that I am adamant about staying off of. I've been told by more than a few that long term I'll enjoy it better than anything. I just have to think technology has advanced past a hunk of leather.
So I've been looking at other seats with cutouts and gels, but it's tough for me to pick one because unlike shoes, bikes, etc. it's tough to test out. I'd say of the components in a seat I'd rank them
1. Comfort
2. Shock absorption
3. Weight
4. Cost
I've been on my mountain bike seat for the time being, but I know I need to get to something more skinny and rigid for proper power.
I've been slowly upgrading my road bike. It came with a rock hard leather seat that I am adamant about staying off of. I've been told by more than a few that long term I'll enjoy it better than anything. I just have to think technology has advanced past a hunk of leather.
So I've been looking at other seats with cutouts and gels, but it's tough for me to pick one because unlike shoes, bikes, etc. it's tough to test out. I'd say of the components in a seat I'd rank them
1. Comfort
2. Shock absorption
3. Weight
4. Cost
I've been on my mountain bike seat for the time being, but I know I need to get to something more skinny and rigid for proper power.
Is your saddle a Brooks?
P.S. Call it a saddle instead of a seat so the snotty roadies you come across won't think you're a newby. :)
culdeus 05-20-2005, 10:19 AM I pretty much am a noob. Saddles are for horses where I come from.
It's a bontrager.
I pretty much am a noob. Saddles are for horses where I come from.
Me too, I'm in Kentucky and own horses.
Is your saddle a Brooks?
culdeus 05-20-2005, 10:25 AM Me too, I'm in Kentucky and own horses.
Is your saddle a Brooks?
Sorry, edited previous post before you replied. It's just a stock bontrager that came on a Trek ATB.
Not familar with a Bontrager saddle that's a hunk of leather, so I'm going to have to punt.
I was going to advise you to give the Brooks some time. Fantastic saddles, but maybe a little heavy and expensive (looking at your list of criteria).
Someone else will I'm sure help you out here --
Spunout 05-20-2005, 10:26 AM Straddle a saddle, sit on a seat. Therefore bicycles have saddles.
Try a few out. Find an LBS that will let you swap a few different ones on the understanding that you will buy the one that works. It is very personal, so no recommendations.
daneil 05-20-2005, 10:31 AM I've been slowly upgrading my road bike. It came with a rock hard leather seat that I am adamant about staying off of. I've been told by more than a few that long term I'll enjoy it better than anything. I just have to think technology has advanced past a hunk of leather.
So I've been looking at other seats with cutouts and gels, but it's tough for me to pick one because unlike shoes, bikes, etc. it's tough to test out. I'd say of the components in a seat I'd rank them
1. Comfort
2. Shock absorption
3. Weight
4. Cost
I've been on my mountain bike seat for the time being, but I know I need to get to something more skinny and rigid for proper power.
Saddles are a very, very personal choice. What works for you might not work for me. That being said there are a few guidelines.
1) Comfort - Comfort is subjective. As I said above, no two rears are the same, so don't expect anyone to tell you what the perfect saddle is. It doesn't exist.
2) Shock absorption - Serious amounts of padding might seem like a great idea in the short spin around the parking lot, but they will wreak havoc on long rides. What you want is a firm saddle that has a comfortable shape for you.
3) Weight - Don't worry so much about saddle weight. While you don't want to have a 450g anchor on there, many pro and amateur racers use heavier saddles such as the Selle San Marco Rolls and Regal because it's comfortable. The saddle is one of two parts on a bike that weight savings shouldn't be the real goal. (The other is the stem because if that breaks so do you.)
4) Cost - Ah the price question. Your best bet is to check around the big box online shops (Nashbar.com, Jenson.com, Performancebike.com, etc...) they will often have last years models and NOS classics such as the Rolls and Selle Italia Turbomatic on deep discount. Buy a few at a time and return what doesn't work for you.
Unless that leather saddle you have is a Brooks like Ed asked. If it is then you have one of the finest saddles made, simply because it will form to your behind over time. It probably just has to be reconditioned or broken in.
Good luck hunting, you'll find something eventually.
thatsmybush 05-20-2005, 10:32 AM Sorry, edited previous post before you replied. It's just a stock bontrager that came on a Trek ATB.
Ed is hardwired to respond by saying get a brooks.
But I faithfully submit that there are other seats out there that many of us "younger folk" find better. For myself I stumbled into a great seat by chance and recommend it highly it is the Arami saddle by San Marco. It is a gelaround with a cut out, that is fairly inexpensive and relatively light.
I found that the width was perfect for my behind, (a saddle that is too wide will tend to make you fell like you are pushing to get back to the spindles) at least for me.
czardonic 05-20-2005, 10:37 AM How many miles have you put in on the road? I'd give yourself a chance to adapt to a minimally padded or un-padded saddle (with decent shorts) rather than messing around with gels and cushions. If you end up needing that stuff, go for it. But I don't think that they are necessary to achieve comfort, I am dubious of their role in shock absorbtion and they certainly don't save you weight or money.
Spunout 05-20-2005, 10:51 AM Agree, simpler can be suprisingly better. Harder means that your tender areas don't sink into the saddle.
If I were to give two starting points for classics: San Marco Rolls and a Flite Ti. One flat, one curved.
Bocephus Jones II 05-20-2005, 11:14 AM Agree, simpler can be suprisingly better. Harder means that your tender areas don't sink into the saddle.
If I were to give two starting points for classics: San Marco Rolls and a Flite Ti. One flat, one curved.
good call. one of those should fit you. For me the SM ROlls is pure torture, but most of Selle Italias stuff works well. Right now I'm using an SLR which is probably not the best saddle if you're just starting out. Pretty minimalistic, but it works for me. I've found that comfort comes more from the chamois you are wearing than the saddle you are using assuming the saddle is the proper shape. Don't get one of those super padded newbie saddles or a gel cover. They tend to bunch up and cause more problems than they solve.
culdeus 05-20-2005, 11:38 AM I might not have been too clear in the fp. The bontrager was taken off my trek atb. The hard saddle that came with the bike (used, but not the seat) was wilderness something or other. It just looked like the basic racing seat you see in the lbs and is sitting in my closet atm. I've put about 500mi so far this year on the bike with the atb seat and after about 30mi on the hard seat I was left wondering why god had forsaken me.
So atm the bontrager cushy atb seat is on the bike making me look like the true noob I am. If I have to go back to the hard seat to see if I can take it so be it. At what point milage wise if the thing doesn't start feeling better should I move to something a little more unconventional?
I appreciate the responses.
Since this is the beginner forum, we should probably ask the question, are you using good bike shorts? If you haven't you should get a good pair of bike shorts. I have found the performance brand ones to offer the best value for the money over the years. You can get their top of the line shorts with a nice eschler chamie for $60 on sale.
Saddles and shorts are a personal decision as everyone is different. One saddle that is widely like and I love is the Terry Fly. The important thing with the Terry is to run it slightly nose up (in fact with any saddle you should experiment with tilt), I hated it until then, and after I did that, I will not use anything else (I have 3 now).
P.S. Call it a saddle instead of a seat so the snotty roadies you come across won't think you're a newby.
Hey, agree a hunnert percent! But how we're going to get people to say "saddle post," "saddle post binder bolt," "saddle tube," and "saddle tube angle"? :)
daneil 05-20-2005, 11:48 AM I might not have been too clear in the fp. The bontrager was taken off my trek atb. The hard saddle that came with the bike (used, but not the seat) was wilderness something or other. It just looked like the basic racing seat you see in the lbs and is sitting in my closet atm. I've put about 500mi so far this year on the bike with the atb seat and after about 30mi on the hard seat I was left wondering why god had forsaken me.
So atm the bontrager cushy atb seat is on the bike making me look like the true noob I am. If I have to go back to the hard seat to see if I can take it so be it. At what point milage wise if the thing doesn't start feeling better should I move to something a little more unconventional?
I appreciate the responses.
The "hard saddle" that came with the bike is probably a WTB. Which model is it? If you have a pic I might be able to help. Some of those WTB seats are pretty comfy, especially the older WTB SST X.3 . That was simply my favorite saddle ever. Now I'm on a Selle Italia Nixe, and it's not quite as comfortable as the Flite Ti that it's replacing. Oh well, I guess it's back to the drawing board. Hey maybe I can convince my beautiful and bike-supportive wife to go the the NYC Bike Show this afternoon to pick up a new saddle and some other finery.
Mapei 05-20-2005, 11:51 AM Analyze your gripes with the saddles you've been running. Have they been running up into your crotch, causing pressure and numbness? Are they just plain hard, causing your bum to get bruised and sore? Do they force you into one and only one position, forcing you to constantly sit at the site of pain? With these parameters in mind (and others you may think of), go to a good bicycle store and let them know what bugs you. Maybe they'll have some suggestions.
By the way, don't underestimate the importance of shock absorption. One of the reasons Brooks saddles are so prized is because they eventually become a hammock under your rear, softening the blows that come from bumps and potholes. My Fizik Vitesse does the same thing. It's a real blessing.
daneil 05-20-2005, 11:52 AM Since this is the beginner forum, we should probably ask the question, are you using good bike shorts? If you haven't you should get a good pair of bike shorts. I have found the performance brand ones to offer the best value for the money over the years. You can get their top of the line shorts with a nice eschler chamie for $60 on sale.
Saddles and shorts are a personal decision as everyone is different. One saddle that is widely like and I love is the Terry Fly. The important thing with the Terry is to run it slightly nose up (in fact with any saddle you should experiment with tilt), I hated it until then, and after I did that, I will not use anything else (I have 3 now).
Excellent point. In addition to performance I'd suggest looking at Voler (www.velowear.com). They have excellent quality at an even better price point (bibs ~$60). Plus the also make the RBReview.com kit.
http://www.velowear.com/images/productimages/1010325.jpg
http://www.velowear.com/images/productimages/1010326.jpg
czardonic 05-20-2005, 12:01 PM At what point milage wise if the thing doesn't start feeling better should I move to something a little more unconventional?I don't have a mileage range, though 30 miles is definitely not enough. When I got back into cycling a few years back I was miserable after 5 miles on a padded Specialized Body Geometry saddle on a MTB with big tires at 50 psi.
I'd just say take it easy on yourself during the transition and look for a trend towards the saddle being completely comfortable. If it just isn't getting any better, at least you'll have a better idea of what isn't working and what to look for in a replacement.
Also pay attention to how your position on the saddle effects the amount of pressure you percieve. Experiment by making small adjustments, one at a time, and testing the results. I think a lot of people set up their saddles so that they are hitting them too far forward and the narrower sections put pressure on soft tissue areas. Make sure you are sitting on your sit bones.
SkiRacer55 05-20-2005, 12:06 PM ...or better yet, bibs, count for a lot, and so does your basic setup on the bike. Don't spare the $$$ when it comes to saddle comfort...if you find something that works for you saddle-wise, whatever it costs is worth it. Any "best saddle?" thread is going to have "I love you/I hate you" for every major saddle out there. Having said that...I've had real good results from Koobi saddles, the price is right, and the service is exceptional...I have 2 Koobi AU Enduro Gels and they work great for me...see www.koobi.com....
bikeboy389 05-20-2005, 12:12 PM While having an MTB saddle on your bike may make you look like a noob, being able to ride for a long time without squirming or suffering afterward makes you look smart. If your current Bontrager saddle fits the bill for comfort, you just have to decide whether you'd rather look cool or smart. I'll take smart any day.
Buying a new saddle is a soul-destroying task, unless you get lucky. You can spend a lot of money, suffer a lot of pain, and still not wind up with one you like.
Also, there's no reason to think you NEED to get something more skinny and rigid. I've never heard of saddles that help with "proper power" anyway (when you're putting the power down, you tend to lift off the saddle), so if that's why you think you may need a new one, don't bother.
I agree with the general guidelines Daneil laid down regarding your points of comfort, shock absorption, etc., and also with the advice to get proper bike shorts if you haven't already.
My rules on saddles are simple (and have been touched on here already):
1. Any saddle will get to you if you haven't ridden much, or don't ride often.
2. Any saddle will get to you if your bike isn't set up right for you.
3. A cushy saddle is rarely a good saddle for long or frequent rides.
4. If there are 100 saddle styles/brands in the world, a saddle that fits well for someone else has about a 10% chance it will also fit you well. Saddle fit is VERY personal.
5. Any saddle you can ride comfortably on for a long time, and often, is the right saddle.
Finally, I support your decision not to use the saddle that came with your bike if it's a WTB brand saddle. They say WTB stands for "Wilderness Trail Bikes" or something, but many folks know it actually means "We Torture Butts." Just kidding, of course--as I said, if a saddle really works for you, it's the right one.
innergel 05-20-2005, 02:04 PM The Terry Fly might be a good saddle to try out. It's got a good shape, a cutout and has some cushioning. I rode mine for the first year I had my bike with no issues. They do tend to sag a bit in the middle after a while, but I run about 220lbs. I ended up on a SI Flite Genuine Gel, no cutout, and it works great.
As with all saddles, YMMV.
I've been slowly upgrading my road bike. It came with a rock hard leather seat that I am adamant about staying off of. I've been told by more than a few that long term I'll enjoy it better than anything. I just have to think technology has advanced past a hunk of leather.
So I've been looking at other seats with cutouts and gels, but it's tough for me to pick one because unlike shoes, bikes, etc. it's tough to test out. I'd say of the components in a seat I'd rank them
1. Comfort
2. Shock absorption
3. Weight
4. Cost
I've been on my mountain bike seat for the time being, but I know I need to get to something more skinny and rigid for proper power.
culdeus 05-20-2005, 02:53 PM You guys seem to know your stuff. Anyway made it back from my first round trip commute ever without incident. :p
The leather saddle is a WTB SST saddle. I'll try cycling it in and out as much as possible to see what I like/dislike about it. That should get me going.
Thanks much.
Excellent point. In addition to performance I'd suggest looking at Voler (www.velowear.com). They have excellent quality at an even better price point (bibs ~$60).
I forgot about them and agree. They have wonderful customer service to boot. I bought a jersey that was the wrong size, they sent the new one out with a pre-paid return package so I didn't have to pay return shipping. A class act with good prices.
One comment about using a mtb saddle. Use what works for you. If some snobby s.o.b has an issue with it, tell him to take his seatpost and put it where the sun doesn't shine.
gnauss 05-20-2005, 04:36 PM ...or better yet, bibs, count for a lot, and so does your basic setup on the bike. Don't spare the $$$ when it comes to saddle comfort...if you find something that works for you saddle-wise, whatever it costs is worth it. Any "best saddle?" thread is going to have "I love you/I hate you" for every major saddle out there. Having said that...I've had real good results from Koobi saddles, the price is right, and the service is exceptional...I have 2 Koobi AU Enduro Gels and they work great for me...see www.koobi.com....
Thumbs up on Koobi saddles. I went through four saddles before I tried the Koobi Enduro Gel. It gave me the flat profile, wider seat, and that slightly better padding. Plus the channel kept me boys from going to sleep. The plus is that they have a 30 day return policy. I knew after the first ride that it was the one. I knew because I didn't think about the saddle once.
vol245 05-21-2005, 07:50 AM Is your saddle a Brooks?
P.S. Call it a saddle instead of a seat so the snotty roadies you come across won't think you're a newby. :)
Are you an imposter? You are being far too kind and helpful. You may end up banned from PO if this keeps up. :D
vol245 05-21-2005, 07:59 AM I've been slowly upgrading my road bike. It came with a rock hard leather seat that I am adamant about staying off of. I've been told by more than a few that long term I'll enjoy it better than anything. I just have to think technology has advanced past a hunk of leather.
So I've been looking at other seats with cutouts and gels, but it's tough for me to pick one because unlike shoes, bikes, etc. it's tough to test out. I'd say of the components in a seat I'd rank them
1. Comfort
2. Shock absorption
3. Weight
4. Cost
I've been on my mountain bike seat for the time being, but I know I need to get to something more skinny and rigid for proper power.
I bought a Brooks Swift about a year ago and while it was the most beautiful saddle to look at, I couldn't get comfortable on it. I sold it and bought a used San Marco Rolls and so far it feels great. The Brooks only felt good if I rode real low and even then the hard nose dug into my crotch. The Rolls allows me to ride much higher when I feel like it and is just as comfortable sitting up as leaning forward. I haven't done more than 2 hours on it yet though. I also have a San Marco SA600 that I have rode for 4 hours and it was bothering me at that point.
Other saddles I have tried and remember:
Specialized Body Geometry (I think that is its name) - hated it. It just hurt to ride on it.
Fizik Pave - Worse than the Specialized.
Terry Fly - Too soft
Flite Trans Am - The hole in the middle has a sharp edge on the inner part that hurt.
Flite Gel - Complete torture
culdeus 05-21-2005, 10:16 AM You guys seem to know your stuff. Anyway made it back from my first round trip commute ever without incident. :p
The leather saddle is a WTB SST saddle. I'll try cycling it in and out as much as possible to see what I like/dislike about it. That should get me going.
Thanks much.
I went ahead and snagged some performance shorts with a coupon code from another thread :thumbup: I'll give the WTB a shot with those and see how it goes.
My current shorts are sort of the garden variety academy store type. They have chamois in the base, but I wouldn't call them nice by any stretch.
culdeus 05-27-2005, 08:17 AM Well, maybe it's the fact that I have put in several hundred miles on my ATB seat or somethign but the hard leather SSX seat isn't as bad as I remembered it. My new shorts haven't come in yet so that might even make it better. I do like the leather and how it doesn't "hang" my shorts like the soft seat did. Makes pedal strokes smoother me thinks.
It does sort of ache the first 5-10 minutes of riding, but then it sort of settles down. No numbness really anywhere. Only problem was getting the seat height/location to equalize compared to the last saddle.
You guys may have saved me 100 bucks GB you.
paulyjsob 06-02-2005, 06:32 AM I bought a Selle Italia Prolink gel flow saddle a few months back. It uses elastomers for shock absorbsion, has a cut out, gel inserts, and weighs a around 250 grams. I've put a few hundred miles on it and it works well for me. Good luck in your search!
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