The other day I went over to a friend's house to get his and his wife's bikes ready for a duathlon. I asked him if he had a workstand, and he pointed to his workbench, covered in junk. I said I meant a bike stand, but I figured he did not have one. I then said "No problem, we will just make one."

Out comes the rope, tossed over a rafter, a slipknot went around the nose of the saddle, and viola! a workstand that made it easy to lube and tune the bikes.

The guy was freakin' AMAZED! He looked at me like a miracle worker.

So, and other basic tricks of the trade people would like to share? Things that you never think about twice, but that a new rider might never think of on their own?

Bonus points if your tip includes duct tape.

That's such an obvious one I'm surprised how it wows people, but I've done it on camping trips and at races and they stand and gape like I'd invented pressurized air.
Couple of others, obvious to veterans but probably helpful to newbies:
When fitting a chain, just stretch it around the big cog and big ring, add one link and put the sucker together. It will be close enough.
Toe strap (which nobody has anymore, but you can use a shoelace) around the brakes to hold the pads against the rim while you adjust the cable.
Puncture, but no patch or spare tube? You shouldn't let this happen, but if it does, cut the tube right at the hole and tie a figure 8 knot as tight as you can in each end. Insert in tire, pump up and ride (works WAY better with mountain bike tires than road rubber, but it's rideable)
Whang the high spot of a tacoed wheel on a fence post or something to beat it more or less back into shape, then tweak the spokes with a wrench until it's rideable with the brake release open. To be honest, I've only had to do this once, but it fixed a REALLY bad wheel well enough to get us to the next rest stop.
Anybody remember those tool-kit freewheel vises you could use to pull a freewheel so you could replace a drive-side spoke? I still have one, useless now, around the garage. A modern-day equivalent, the Cassette Cracker, is the size and weight of a church key can opener and will spin off a cassette with no other tools. On long rides I carry one, plus a couple of spokes taped to the top or seat tube. Don't know where you'll find a Cracker, though, except in my garage.
.

The other day I went over to a friend's house to get his and his wife's bikes ready for a duathlon. I asked him if he had a workstand, and he pointed to his workbench, covered in junk. I said I meant a bike stand, but I figured he did not have one. I then said "No problem, we will just make one."

Out comes the rope, tossed over a rafter, a slipknot went around the nose of the saddle, and viola! a workstand that made it easy to lube and tune the bikes.

The guy was freakin' AMAZED! He looked at me like a miracle worker.

So, and other basic tricks of the trade people would like to share? Things that you never think about twice, but that a new rider might never think of on their own?

Bonus points if your tip includes duct tape.

Some people seem to be amazed when I can:

-Put on a tight-beaded road tire with my bare hands.
-Adjust a disc brake so it is dead silent (no rubbing).
-Get a stiff link out of a chain with my hands.
-track stand
-ride and steer my bike without hands
-fix a slashed tire with duct tape :)

Ok, I'm not trying to brag, since lots of people can do those things, but it's fun to show off sometimes :) .

-R

Simple stuff that's good to know:

1. New chains come with a wax paste type covering which prevents them from rusting in the box. It is not lube and forms a gritty sandpaper paste on your chain. You need to clean it off (chain degreaser does the trick) and apply proper chain lube.

2. Proper chain lube and chain cleaning will vastly extend the usable life of your chain, cassette and rings. Old T-shirts are great for general drivetrain cleaning.

3. If you are road riding, you need to carry: at least one spare tube (protected from punctures in your saddlebag), at least two tire levers, a basic multi tool, a method of inflating your tires (pump or CO2 cartridge and inflator), tire patch kit or glueless patches (for double flats ect.) and at least $5 cash. That is the basics, you can carry more stuff but less then that and you will be walking home someday in uncomfortable shoes.

:)

With a cut tire, where the tube will stick out and pop again, place a dollar bill (or 5 pound note...) inside and insert/inflate new tube. Done this several times and I always carry a bill with spare tubes.

With a cut tire, where the tube will stick out and pop again, place a dollar bill (or 5 pound note...) inside and insert/inflate new tube. Done this several times and I always carry a bill with spare tubes.
energy bar wrappers also work for this.

When you come to an obstacle in the road, push down, pull up, hop over. The first time you manage it -- well, talk about an amazed newbie.

Cut up FedEx, UPS, DHL envelope (Tyvek)strips are better & ~~free & you still have the $5 bill to spend on a congradulatory beer for your field expediency.

When using any hand held pump, find a stone or a fence post and rest the end of the pump on it; effectively converting your hand pump into a mini track pump.

I also second the no lever approach to taking tyres on and off.

Cold day that's gonna warm up? few sheets of newspaper up the jersey, take out when warm.

Putting wheels in? Front first; it's the easiest and lifts the front of the bike making the rear easier, and always remove the wheel in the smallest sprocket, that way you know where it goes when replacing.

Arm warmers are the greatest bit of kit.

Shaving legs? always shave towards the knee, ie down at the top, up from the feet.

Good trick? picking up a dropped cap while riding along.

Best bottle cages? Metal 'cos you can bend them in to grip the bottles for cobbles and rougher races.

Rainy day? cotton cap under helmet = dryer eyes.

Power Bars take more energy to chew than you get from the bar itself. ;)

Cut up FedEx, UPS, DHL envelope (Tyvek)strips are better & ~~free & you still have the $5 bill to spend on a congradulatory beer for your field expediency.

I use tyvec CD/DVD holders as a bag for my tubes in my seatpack. It protects the tube from my toolkit and other stuff in the bag, and can be used to boot a tire like you said.

Power Bars take more energy to chew than you get from the bar itself. ;)

DEFINITELY don't store your Power Bar away from body heat when it's cold. They could break your teeth! Clif Bars are another story .... much softer and tastier.

Im sure the arguements will come, but after many years and threads read, this is my price for performance tips. All of these answers have their caveats, but these ARE the correct answers for the newbies.

1. The best upgrade for your money: If your frame fits you CORRECTLY: Wheels, wheels, wheels otherwise FRAME FRAME FRAME
2. The best frame material for your money: Aluminum
3. Ultegra vs 105s, for the money: 105s
4. Carbon handlebars, Cranks, or handlebars: For the money, Handlebars
5. Shimano vs Campy: again price for performance: Shimano
6. the best sports drink....: price for performance.... Water with a touch of salt

Im sure the arguements will come...but these ARE the correct answers for the newbies...

Don't believe everything you read on the internet.

are the best long term value. Low spoke count wheels may look cool but can also leave you walking home or waiting for a factory rebuild.

i third the no tool/tire off method

and to learn that it takes...well.........practice

i cant repair a flat within 2 minutess now w/no tools(Execpt patches_

i third the no tool/tire off method

and to learn that it takes...well.........practice

i cant repair a flat within 2 minutess now w/no tools(Execpt patches_
certain combos are a real pain though. carry your tire irons just in case or you may end up with blisters on your thumbs.

Shimano is better than campy!

honestly (I agree).

Shimano is better than campy!

Interesting, not even the one I was warning newbies about. Sounds like someone may have a predisposed bias.

...this is my price for performance tips...
1. The best upgrade for your money: If your frame fits you CORRECTLY: Wheels, wheels, wheels otherwise FRAME FRAME FRAME

After you have a properly fitting and fitted bicycle the best upgrades are changing stock components that do not fit your body or riding style. Saddle, tires, cassette, shoe & pedal combination, computer with cadence... Buy a couple of pairs of good shorts.

2. The best frame material for your money: Aluminum


Although for a newbie comfort often times trumps performance and they may develop their riding ability quicker on a bike that they can put long miles on rather than an aluminum rocket that lets them go fast over shorter distances.

3. Ultegra vs 105s, for the money: 105s

Hmmmm, is this still true in the longer term with Shimano's transition of its product lines to 10 speed? Certainly something to think about depending on the short and long term goals of the newbie.

4. Carbon handlebars, Cranks, or handlebars: For the money, Handlebars

Well handlebars over cranks but properly sized handlebars should have been dealt with in the bike fit and carbon is really not necessary although it may look cool. Why would you be putting carbon handlebars and cranks on a 105 level bike?

5. Shimano vs Campy: again price for performance: Shimano

Maybe or maybe not. A lot of factors to look at and the old rule of thumb from 2 or 3 years ago may have changed with recent developments in the market. Certainly a point to be researched and discussed in a different forum.

6. the best sports drink....: price for performance.... Water with a touch of salt

Print this list so you can put it in your pocket and read it while you try to gather enough energy after bonking to make it back home.

Im sure the arguements will come, but after many years and threads read, this is my price for performance tips. All of these answers have their caveats, but these ARE the correct answers for the newbies.

LMAO :p

-R

Same can be accomplished by perching the nose of your saddle on a low-hanging, horizontal tree branch. Bikes balance quite well this way.

"Well handlebars over cranks but properly sized handlebars should have been dealt with in the bike fit and carbon is really not necessary although it may look cool. Why would you be putting carbon handlebars and cranks on a 105 level bike?"

cause they dropped almost a half pound off the bike, and were not much more than upgrading to an ultegra crank and bb.

3. Ultegra vs 105s, for the money: 105s

especially for 2006!
10 SPEEEED!!!!


http://www.cyclingnews.com/photos/2005/tech/news/may26/105-group.jpg

Using motorcycle tie down straps with the s-hooks. Hook one end to a cross beam and the other end around the seatpost, the other strap will hand from another cross beam (or hook) and then around the stem.

I use tyvec CD/DVD holders as a bag for my tubes in my seatpack. It protects the tube from my toolkit and other stuff in the bag, and can be used to boot a tire like you said.

Old cotton sock for the tube. Holes in it are OK, also the ones that show up in the laundry with no mate. Put the tube in the foot end and fold the top over. Then store the CO2 cartridge, irons, etc. in the "leg end." This does a couple things: Keeps the tube from getting chafed in the bag against the tools, but also keeps the tools from chafing your seat bag against the rails on the saddle. Finally, when you do have a flat or a minor roadside repair, you have a "grease rag" to clean up your hands.

NEVER pass up a chance to top off your water bottles!

Sodium bi-carb in the bottle with water is an electrolyte and better than salt because it will settle your stomach a bit on a hard ride. A pinch will do ya!

Leather pouch coin purse for keys and change. Keeps keys/change from poking a hole in your $100 jersey, and keeps the contents together.

Speakin' of jerseys. Zippers cost money. When looking at jerseys and comparing prices, get the one with the LONG zipper that comes all the way down to your navel. Hang the cost! It will pay for itself in the long haul. Also, put it on. Zip up the neck. It's nice if you can un-zip the neck with one hand and no fancy finger work. That's a function of fit and design. Helps too if the zipper tab is a decent size.

For the tourist types -- DON'T secure clothing on the bars. You haven't lived until that shirt comes untied and wraps around the front wheel!

Shoes? $100 plus....

Socks? $1.....

Put socks over your shoes when it rains.

Oh yeah. This seems obvious too.

Buy some decent riding shorts. Then leave the Jockey's and Joe Boxer's at home. That goes for the Maidenform, and Olga's too. :D

Lots tell how great it is to change a tire with no levers, but no one hinted at how.

When taking the tire off or on, the trick is to make sure the opposite end your are working with your hands is sunk well down into the rim. this will give those extra few milimeters on the other side that you need to pop it off or on.

For example, when taking it off, pinch the beads together (no air in tube at all) with one hand, while pulling out on the end you want to remove.

Another tip: always preinflate the tube just enough to give it shape, work the tube into the rim first, so you don't get it stuck between a bead and the rim. If you need to let it out again for the last section of bead, at least you know it's properly seated.

Also, about all these boot materials - if you really want to fix the tire and have a patch kit, clean and glue a patch over the slice (on the inside obviously) just like you would a tube. I've had realatively new tires that were sliced last until the tread was gone with a well placed patch. Saves buying a new tire.

Pop the bottle trick - (mt or city bikes) - spot a plastic bottle against the curb...pinch it between the front tire and the curb... watch it shoot into the air. I've had a friend in front of me put one right into my chest. sometimes you can even pop one over the next riders head. Beware, open bottles or cans may spray you down.

Cut up FedEx, UPS, DHL envelope (Tyvek)strips are better & ~~free & you still have the $5 bill to spend on a congradulatory beer for your field expediency.
A cut out section of denium works well.

If your new tube doesn't have it already, wipe a bit of talcum powder over it before installing. Then pre-inflate the tube just enough to give it shape (as someone else mentioned). I use the silver rings to give the pump good purchase on the stem.

especially for 2006!
10 SPEEEED!!!!


http://www.cyclingnews.com/photos/2005/tech/news/may26/105-group.jpg

I don't agree with selecting 105 over Ultegra for prior years.

Sprinkle babypowder inside your tire at your next tube change. This prevents the tube from sticking to the tire.

Learn to unclip your left foot instead of your right, and say goodbye to chainring tattooes.

When changing a flat, you never should have to touch the chain and get grease all over your hands. Have your bike in the big ring on the front and the small cog on the back. You should be able to take the wheel off and put it back on. The big ring in the front keeps more pressure on the chain and keeps it on the chainring.

If you want to check your shifting without riding, stand on the left side of your bike, bend over and place the tip of the saddle over the back of your neck and lift the back wheel off the ground. Shift with your left hand and peddle with your right.

Instead of powerbars and expensive food, buy iced oatmeal cookies from the dollar store. They have almost the same balance but taste better and are easy to pack.

Don't buy cold water at the convenience stores on a group ride. Just buy a gallon of warm water for a buck and share with the whole group. Don't worry about keeping your liquids cold, it is more trouble than it is worth.

With a cut tire, where the tube will stick out and pop again, place a dollar bill (or 5 pound note...) inside and insert/inflate new tube. Done this several times and I always carry a bill with spare tubes.


I usually take an old tire and cut the bead out. When that is done, I cut the tire into different lengths (anywhere from 2" to 4") and keep them in my saddlebag. If I get a sidewall cut, place the proper length in and that usually gets me home.

As for the bunny hopping thing. I did the classic mistake on a ride with a friend. Was talking to him and not looking forward (long stretch straightaway while on the shoulder). He yelled "Watch out!" and looked up to see a huge tree limb in front of me. I had no where to go so I bunny hopped. He still talks about that to this day. You would have sworn that I won Paris-Roubaix.

before leaving your home for a ride is drink a glass of water.

Old cotton sock for the tube. Holes in it are OK, also the ones that show up in the laundry with no mate. Put the tube in the foot end and fold the top over. Then store the CO2 cartridge, irons, etc. in the "leg end." This does a couple things: Keeps the tube from getting chafed in the bag against the tools, but also keeps the tools from chafing your seat bag against the rails on the saddle. Finally, when you do have a flat or a minor roadside repair, you have a "grease rag" to clean up your hands.

NEVER pass up a chance to top off your water bottles!

Sodium bi-carb in the bottle with water is an electrolyte and better than salt because it will settle your stomach a bit on a hard ride. A pinch will do ya!

Leather pouch coin purse for keys and change. Keeps keys/change from poking a hole in your $100 jersey, and keeps the contents together.

Speakin' of jerseys. Zippers cost money. When looking at jerseys and comparing prices, get the one with the LONG zipper that comes all the way down to your navel. Hang the cost! It will pay for itself in the long haul. Also, put it on. Zip up the neck. It's nice if you can un-zip the neck with one hand and no fancy finger work. That's a function of fit and design. Helps too if the zipper tab is a decent size.

For the tourist types -- DON'T secure clothing on the bars. You haven't lived until that shirt comes untied and wraps around the front wheel!


The zipper comments are right on the money. Those cheap "exclamation point" zipper pulls on thin, tight, plastic zipper teeth are crap. Santini and Biemme have nice large rectangular logo pulls with thick, smooth meshing teeth.

The other day I went over to a friend's house to get his and his wife's bikes ready for a duathlon. I asked him if he had a workstand, and he pointed to his workbench, covered in junk. I said I meant a bike stand, but I figured he did not have one. I then said "No problem, we will just make one."

Out comes the rope, tossed over a rafter, a slipknot went around the nose of the saddle, and viola! a workstand that made it easy to lube and tune the bikes.

The guy was freakin' AMAZED! He looked at me like a miracle worker.

So, and other basic tricks of the trade people would like to share? Things that you never think about twice, but that a new rider might never think of on their own?

Bonus points if your tip includes duct tape.

random tips in no particular order, but numbered for aestetic reasons.

1. When at a stop light, if you need to move over to either side to make room for cars or other bikes, squeeze front brake lever to lock front wheel. Push forward on handlebars effectively executing a slight nose wheelie. The rear end can then easily swing right or left. Let the rear wheel land to which ever side you want to move to (if swinging to right be careful to avoid hitting right calf with chain or chainring). Release front brake and lift front end over to be parallel with rear wheel. You can use this method to lift your bike from street to curb or sidewalk.

2. Handwritten direction on paper placed in jersey pocket can smear with sweat. Put the paper in a sandwich bag to keep it dry and readable.

3. If your chain drops off a ring, try backpedaling 1/4 turn to re-engage chain onto ring, then pedal forward.

4. You can park your bike upright, leaning on curb or low ledge by using a pedal and crankarm as a kickstand. To park bike on right pedal, place cranks so right pedal is between 6:30 and 8 o'clock depending on height of curb or ledge. Rest pedal on top of 4"-10"curb or ledge with wheels below level of curb or ledge with tire sidewalls touching and parallel to curb or ledge just like a parked car. Pedal and crank arm act as a kickstand, unable to rotate forward.

5. When parking bike unlocked at convenience store or cafe, shift to big ring and little cog, then tighten down brakes all the way, so pads pinch rim. Woodbee thieves who try to ride off with it will not be able to pedal away.

6. When enterring public place like cafe or convenience store, casually carry large water bottle in front of you, low and just below navel to shield your massive junk from innocent eyes. Or you can duct tape Lil Elvis 'tween the cheeks.

7. Plain old vasoline acts as total wind and water proofing for legs.

8. Coat cut off cable ends with Superglue instead of using tip caps.

9. Applying a bead of ShoeGoo around junction of shoe sole and upper, especially at toe and heel will prevent scuffing and prolong life of shoes.

10 Make all wheel sensor magnet adjustments off of bike, not while wheel is spinning. This takes some people a bit longer to learn than others.
From cyclingnews.com
Contador fractures finger
Alberto Contador (Liberty Seguros) didn't finish Stage 6 after crashing just 1.5 km into the stage, when he tried to adjust his bike computer sensor and put his hand into his wheel. Contador was taken to hospital where he was diagnosed with an open fracture in the third joint of his right ring finger. He had 15 stitches to the finger, as well as five more in his right thumb.

June 11 does not seem to be an auspicious day for Contador, as last year on this date he had to be operated on to relieve a brain cavernoma that put his cycling career at risk. But Contador is confident that he will be back in action in time for the Tour de France. "I believe that this time there is no risk for the Tour," he said. "Last year I missed it because of the operation, but I believe that this problem only will force me to stay off the bike a couple of days."

Contador is the second rider from Saiz' team that has suffered an accident of this sort. In the 2000 Vuelta a España, during the Rabassa descent in the Pyrenees, Mikel Zarrabeitia (ONCE), also put his hand into the front wheel and his finger had to be partially amputated.

Best tip I haven't seen here is one I learned from a family of racers: when moving your bike in tight quarters (like between two cars in the garage), stand the bike on its rear wheel, holding it by the handlebars, and walk it. It is so much easier that trying to get your bike from scratching the side of your other non-bike stuff, and so simple.

Listen to this one kids. XXL is spot on.

Carry ID, Cell or change for phone, couple of bucks for a snack

Hopefully you'll never need to use them, even to help someone else.

If you don't want to carry them in your pocket, put a few band-aids, gauze pads, and alcohol wipes in a baggie and stuff it into your seat post. You can wrap some duct tape around a stick and put it in there too (more useful than adhesive tape) Seal off the bottom of the seat post so you don't have to fish the supplies out of the seat tube. Check it periodically.

A spare tube can be used to apply a splint, brace a fractured clavicle, immobilize a sprained finger, ankle, etc. Mountain bike and cyclocross tubes can be cut up and used for pressure bandages. Road tubes work - just not as well.

Take a first aid course (call your local Red Cross office.) It'll apply to a lot more than cycling.

Wipe glass off your tires without losing your fingers.

ID (I got mine from roadid.com . Definitely made my wife feel better once I started wearing it. Recently in the area on the news were a couple of incidents of people hit on bikes with no ID, and the nightmare of trying to ID/locate someone. I almost wear it all the time now out of habit that way I don't forget it. Also useful on walks/hikes as well, or any activity where you don't want to carry a wallet etc.

I always carry a cell phone and at least a couple of goo pouches in case I feel bonkish. I've seen some say carry change for the phone.. Well first I hate carrying change on a bicycle... Second it only works if you can even find a pay phone anymore, and if you ride out in the country, not likely...With the increased use of cell phones, pay phones seem to be slowly disappearing from the scene.

On the other hand, cell phones are pretty common and you can likely find a driver or someone that has one in pretty short order in an emergency.

Also on carrying the cell phone, if rain, or chance or rain, a nice zip lock plastic baggie works well to protect it as it sits in your seat bag and gets sprayed from the road spray.

Sprinkle babypowder inside your tire at your next tube change. This prevents the tube from sticking to the tire.


This one's an old wive's tale. See Jobst Brandt's views:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/talcum.html

This one's an old wive's tale. See Jobst Brandt's views:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/talcum.html

I never heard it reduces flats; I use talcum powder to keep the tube from sticking to the inside of the tire. Makes mounting tires and changing tubes a bit easier and might allow a smidge of slip to reduce wear on the tube (though the latter is purely conjecture).

Cut up FedEx, UPS, DHL envelope (Tyvek)strips are better & ~~free & you still have the $5 bill to spend on a congradulatory beer for your field expediency.


Even better is a small stripof xray film--can get from any hospital.

Best tip I haven't seen here is one I learned from a family of racers: when moving your bike in tight quarters (like between two cars in the garage), stand the bike on its rear wheel, holding it by the handlebars, and walk it. It is so much easier that trying to get your bike from scratching the side of your other non-bike stuff, and so simple.

this is the best for going down stairs too. You can even use the rear brakes to help control - helpfull if you've got an old, old house with steep skinny stairways.

Shoes? $100 plus....

Socks? $1.....

Put socks over your shoes when it rains. cheaper than booties

A QUICK scan of the tip threads and I did not see this one, but if it is a repeat so what?

When riding past parked cars, look in the side mirror of the cars. This will let you see if anyone is in the driver's seat, and about to pop the door open. You don't have to stare into the mirror, just a glance will show if there is motion inside. This has saved me more than once.

I just now learned this yesterday. If you lean the rear wheel against something like a fire hydrant and turn the handlebars toward the object your leaning it against, it will stand on its own. For some of the otherstuff like putting your bike on its back tire to go down stairs, I'm surprised everybody dosn't know that. Of course you could say the same thing about the leaning thing :)

YES KIDDIES SUPERGLUE!
You can use it to close cuts and wounds after you have cleaned them with your water bottle. THANKS TO A VETERAN MEDIC FOR THIS TIP. They have started using it in the Operating room to close wounds that leave only TINY scars
It can be temporarily used to close slashed tires for the ride home( worked when I was 40K out and I ran over a hidden sharp pipe that was stuck straight out of the ground!)
It even seals skuffs in your paintwork and prevents rust on steel frames.

Learned this from a motorcyclist. If you're keeping an eye on a car that's perpendicular to you and may pull out, watch the front wheel. You can detect the motion of the wheel starting to rotate sooner than you'll notice the forward motion of the car itself. Also, if you're watching a car moving in the same or opposite direction as you, again watch the front wheel. You can see it start to turn in your direction before you'll see the car moving over. It may just be a split second advantage, but sometimes that's all it takes to save your butt...

Ok - two tips. The first one is an opinion... the second is more of a tip.

IMHO, The best upgrade to a bicycle is not the frame, wheels, components... the best way to improve your bicycle is to upgrade the engine.

Here's my tip. If you have your road bike shoes on you are stranded with a disabled bike several miles from anywhere and you can't get anyone with your cell phone; take the shoe liner out of your shoes, put it in your socks and put your socks back on - with the shoe liners in your socks. That will give your feet some protection from blisters, and your calves some protection from straining. You may ruin the socks and you may even ruin the shoe inserts, but your feet will be more likely to be blister free. :-)

hotel room take the shower caps with you. I use them during rain rides. If it's cold rain it goes under the helmet. If it's warm, most of the caps fit over a helmet. you may look a like a dork, but your head is dry.

I use rubber bungees from Home Depot hooked over the rail to my garage door. It bounces a bit but works (for under $5).

NEver EVER force your pedals around when they sudenly jerk to a stop for one reason or another or SOMETHING will in your drivetrain will dynamite!!


Dynamite: : verb
to break apart explosively.
dynamited: My rear derailer dynamited because I forced my bicycle pedals to complete a revolution.

Never EVER pass moving cars on the right; especially where there are places for them to turn right without warning. Cars that are going slowly enough for you to pass them usually are getting ready for a turn in one direction or another.

Heres one that i don't think has been mentioned. Tired of carrying levers? When you get a flat use the skewer of the wheel you just took off, mkae sure you save the springs and try it first at home, don' t blame me if you're stuck confused in nowheresvillie wiht no levers. This is a major show off skill whne riding with friends.

Heres one that i don't think has been mentioned. Tired of carrying levers? When you get a flat use the skewer of the wheel you just took off, mkae sure you save the springs and try it first at home, don' t blame me if you're stuck confused in nowheresvillie wiht no levers. This is a major show off skill whne riding with friends.

One question: why? To save the 4 of 5 grams of weight that levers add you want to go through the hassle of having to take the skewers completely off AND increasing the chances of tearing the tube during a remount (especially with deep dish wheels)?

Sorry i was not specific enough, this is good for the days you forget the levers or to imprese a freind (this whole topic). You are right it is not worth it to never carry levers but his has gotten me out of afew jams.

Duct tape fixes everything imaginable. Tubes, seat, nice for holding cables down, replaces the broken spedometer mount...

Beyond the obvious things when the weather gets cold--long sleeved jerseys, tights, fingered gloves, wool blend socks--the following are cheap and make a huge difference:

--neoprene shoe covers
--mesh backed vest
--wicking skull cap and base layer (Under Armor or equivalent)

Arm warmers are cheaper than buying a bunch of long sleeved jerseys, plus they can be taken off if the weather warms.

The "loose fit" line from Under Armor also makes good, relatively inexpensive jerseys if you can do without zippers and pockets. Plus, they are sized for human Americans instead of pencil-like Italians. (No insult intended--I'd love to be a pencil-like Italian.)

Most of you have probably already heard of an emergency program called "ICE". It stands for "In Case of Emergency". Please see the link below. A paramedic in England started this movement. Just program the word "ICE" in front of a contact on your cell phone such as "ICE Home" or ICE Judy" ect... If you are in an accident, paramedics and doctors are trained to look for this entry in your cell phone.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/07/17/AR2005071700879.html

I had a haunted Mexican Bike--if y'all remember Windsor--and it KNEW if I only had one spare and it would invariably toss two flats at me on long rides. Once I started carrying two spares, it stopped doing that. Subsequent bikes have not been haunted (or if they were, they liked me) but I never stopped carrying two spares. A spoke tool is also a necessity. On some bikes I carried spare spokes taped to one of the frame elements, that helped to ward off broken spokes. It you assume that your bike's out to get ya, you will be prepared for anything.


Simple stuff that's good to know:

1. New chains come with a wax paste type covering which prevents them from rusting in the box. It is not lube and forms a gritty sandpaper paste on your chain. You need to clean it off (chain degreaser does the trick) and apply proper chain lube.

2. Proper chain lube and chain cleaning will vastly extend the usable life of your chain, cassette and rings. Old T-shirts are great for general drivetrain cleaning.

3. If you are road riding, you need to carry: at least one spare tube (protected from punctures in your saddlebag), at least two tire levers, a basic multi tool, a method of inflating your tires (pump or CO2 cartridge and inflator), tire patch kit or glueless patches (for double flats ect.) and at least $5 cash. That is the basics, you can carry more stuff but less then that and you will be walking home someday in uncomfortable shoes.




:)

Arm warmers are cheaper than buying a bunch of long sleeved jerseys, plus they can be taken off if the weather warms.

NO DOUBT. Leg and arm warmers essentially quadruple your winter wardrobe.

Use your jersey pockets.

Learn to trackstand, at least for the length of a stoplight.

Get a singlespeed bike (if you don't want to go fixed) to get back to basic pedaling focus.

Drink before you are thirsty.

Don't buy $80 winter cycling gloves. Go to a hunting store (or even Big 5) and get some winter hunting gloves. You can get the same neoprine weldes seem fleece lined gloves that the cycling companies sell - for about $25. The ones I have even have reduced thickness on the trigger finger - good for better braking feel.

Does your computer ever stop working in the rain? Sometimes water can get in between the computer and the contacts on the mounts. Go to the hardware store and buy some Lightbulb Grease (yes - lightbulb grease) It's a dialectric grease that conducts, but will prevent moisture from getting in. A dab on each contact and you'll never have problems again. Works great on powertaps, which are notorious for losing cadence in the rain.

And for the strategy how-to: Ever have a guy who just sits in during a race break? Can be frustrating. Blow your nose in your hand and wipe it on your ass. Nine times out of ten that motivates someone to take pulls (rather than look at your boogs).

where i live lots of people let their dogs roam free. if you are being chased by a snarling dog, give them a quick blast of water from a water bottle. it wont harm the dog and he wont harm you.

And for the strategy how-to: Ever have a guy who just sits in during a race break? Can be frustrating. Blow your nose in your hand and wipe it on your ass. Nine times out of ten that motivates someone to take pulls (rather than look at your boogs).
:eek:

Lots of good tips on this thread.

I always carry my spare tubes in a ziplock bag with a little baby powder sprinkled in. This acts as a dry lube to help fix flats on the road. Zip lock bags are also great for cell phones & anything else that can't get wet.

I always carry a fairly small rag in my seat bag. I'ts useful for wiping hands if need be. I also lay it out flat and roll up tire levers, change, keys, etc in the rag. This keeps them from jingling / clanking when on the road.

NEVER, EVER carry keys, or anything else sharp in your jersey or shorts pocket. In the event of a fall, even a very minor one, these can cause grevious wounds. Also don't even think about riding without bar ends. Same thing as the keys.

I keep a 3.5 x 5 plastic laminated index card in my helmet with all pertinent info, e.g., name, address, phone, current meds, allergies, emergency contact person & any other med info that would be useful in an emergency.

A very simple preventative maint. tip. Look at your tires before you ride. Just spin them slowly & look for cuts, imbedded objects, etc.

The best way to check out your bike is to clean it. You get a close up look at everything if you do even a half a**ed job. I do the nasty parts, (chain, drive train), 1st. When using lube, remember that less is more. Too much just attracts dust, dirt, gravel, and defeats the purpose of lubing in the 1st place.

When cleaning, if my bike isn't caked with mud, I use Pledge furniture cleaner. It shines great, is very easy to use, and makes your bike smell good, too. :-). I spray it on everything, then wipe. It's fast & easy. I remove the wheels, spray all the spokes hubs, rims, and even a little on the tires. No, it does NOT make your rims and or tires slippery, so the brakes work normally & the tires grip like they always did.

One thing that really drives me nutz is squeaking cleats. I use Looks. I like them very much, but I think probably almost all cleats are a bit prone to creaking where they touch the pedal. A sure-fire fix for this is to spray both the pedal and the cleat surfaces they contact with WD40. Wipe'em off real good. If you only spray the cleats where they actually touch the pedal and wipe them off, you won't have any trouble walking on them.

:eek:

Or you could just lean out a little bit & blow snot rockets.

Sprinkle babypowder inside your tire at your next tube change. This prevents the tube from sticking to the tire.

its an old wives tale. A tube sticks to the tire when the ruber is deteriorating. Temp swings from hot to cold will attribute as will age. If your tube is sticking this is a good sign its time to replace that tube.

Some have also said that it helps prevent holes because it cuts down on friction between the tube and tire. Also an old wives tale. The tube and tire act as one because of all the pressure in there.

until recently i've done the baby powder for years. Not noticing any more flats because of not doing it.

best advice for a tire... inflate to 20 psi and then roll the tire off and back onto the rim all around it. this makes sure you don't have any tube pinched between the tire bead and the rim.

inspect your tires very carefully when changing a tube. Only one thing caused your flat but there are probably a few other obstructions waiting to give you your next.

how do you do the thing with the brakes. I cant seem to get them to stay shut. i must be missing something totally stupid.

1. When at a stop light, if you need to move over to either side to make room for cars or other bikes, squeeze front brake lever to lock front wheel. Push forward on handlebars effectively executing a slight nose wheelie. The rear end can then easily swing right or left. Let the rear wheel land to which ever side you want to move to (if swinging to right be careful to avoid hitting right calf with chain or chainring). Release front brake and lift front end over to be parallel with rear wheel. You can use this method to lift your bike from street to curb or sidewalk.

2. Handwritten direction on paper placed in jersey pocket can smear with sweat. Put the paper in a sandwich bag to keep it dry and readable.

3. If your chain drops off a ring, try backpedaling 1/4 turn to re-engage chain onto ring, then pedal forward.

4. You can park your bike upright, leaning on curb or low ledge by using a pedal and crankarm as a kickstand. To park bike on right pedal, place cranks so right pedal is between 6:30 and 8 o'clock depending on height of curb or ledge. Rest pedal on top of 4"-10"curb or ledge with wheels below level of curb or ledge with tire sidewalls touching and parallel to curb or ledge just like a parked car. Pedal and crank arm act as a kickstand, unable to rotate forward.

5. When parking bike unlocked at convenience store or cafe, shift to big ring and little cog, then tighten down brakes all the way, so pads pinch rim. Woodbee thieves who try to ride off with it will not be able to pedal away.

6. When enterring public place like cafe or convenience store, casually carry large water bottle in front of you, low and just below navel to shield your massive junk from innocent eyes. Or you can duct tape Lil Elvis 'tween the cheeks.

7. Plain old vasoline acts as total wind and water proofing for legs.

8. Coat cut off cable ends with Superglue instead of using tip caps.

9. Applying a bead of ShoeGoo around junction of shoe sole and upper, especially at toe and heel will prevent scuffing and prolong life of shoes.

10 Make all wheel sensor magnet adjustments off of bike, not while wheel is spinning. This takes some people a bit longer to learn than others.
From cyclingnews.com
Contador fractures finger
Alberto Contador (Liberty Seguros) didn't finish Stage 6 after crashing just 1.5 km into the stage, when he tried to adjust his bike computer sensor and put his hand into his wheel. Contador was taken to hospital where he was diagnosed with an open fracture in the third joint of his right ring finger. He had 15 stitches to the finger, as well as five more in his right thumb.

June 11 does not seem to be an auspicious day for Contador, as last year on this date he had to be operated on to relieve a brain cavernoma that put his cycling career at risk. But Contador is confident that he will be back in action in time for the Tour de France. "I believe that this time there is no risk for the Tour," he said. "Last year I missed it because of the operation, but I believe that this problem only will force me to stay off the bike a couple of days."

Contador is the second rider from Saiz' team that has suffered an accident of this sort. In the 2000 Vuelta a Espa񡬪during the Rabassa descent in the Pyrenees, Mikel Zarrabeitia (ONCE), also put his hand into the front wheel and his finger had to be partially amputated.[/QUOTE]

I refuse to admit how long it took me when I started to ride a road bike a lot to figure out that you really had to pull back from the bars with your arms when you wanted to generate power. I started just turning the cranks and pushed against the friction of my butt on the seat. Then one day I leaned back and pulled my arms tight from the bars--BINGO--power!! Simple to understand now but it sure was not when I started. IMO, The arms are much more active in generating power than a beginner thinks.

Tip: When changing out components be sure and grease them. (at least in most cases) In steel it reduces the chance of rusting and makes all further ins and out much easier.

Suggestion is to join a cycling club/org...I learned more from riding a few group rides than I could have learned in a year of solo. Be sure you learn to draft properly. Nothing worse than being slammed from behind because someone did know what "slowing" meant....

I would love to promote these guys as they have a great organization....

http://www.cascade.org/Home/


BTW spend the first 3 or 4 months riding in the small chainring only. This will aid you in building up a base. You'll be amazed how quick you are when you get to the big ring later.

[list]And for the strategy how-to: Ever have a guy who just sits in during a race break? Can be frustrating. Blow your nose in your hand and wipe it on your ass. Nine times out of ten that motivates someone to take pulls (rather than look at your boogs).

Maybe it's late or I'm too big of a noob, but that went right over me... "sits in during a race break?" "take pulls?" "boogs?" What the hell do those mean?

Most of you have probably already heard of an emergency program called "ICE". It stands for "In Case of Emergency". Please see the link below. A paramedic in England started this movement. Just program the word "ICE" in front of a contact on your cell phone such as "ICE Home" or ICE Judy" ect... If you are in an accident, paramedics and doctors are trained to look for this entry in your cell phone.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/07/17/AR2005071700879.html

But my drug dealer's name is Ice!!

Maybe it's late or I'm too big of a noob, but that went right over me... "sits in during a race break?" "take pulls?" "boogs?" What the hell do those mean?

Uhm, I'm a noob, too, but taking a guess. "sits in during a race break" = sitting in a draft in between sprints or attacks without taking the lead, which leads to "take pulls" = pulling, or being in front and pulling those drafting behind you. The last one I know for sure, "boogs" = boogers, that crusty crap in your nose.

its an old wives tale. A tube sticks to the tire when the ruber is deteriorating. Temp swings from hot to cold will attribute as will age. If your tube is sticking this is a good sign its time to replace that tube.

Some have also said that it helps prevent holes because it cuts down on friction between the tube and tire. Also an old wives tale. The tube and tire act as one because of all the pressure in there.

until recently i've done the baby powder for years. Not noticing any more flats because of not doing it.

best advice for a tire... inflate to 20 psi and then roll the tire off and back onto the rim all around it. this makes sure you don't have any tube pinched between the tire bead and the rim.

inspect your tires very carefully when changing a tube. Only one thing caused your flat but there are probably a few other obstructions waiting to give you your next.

I've been lucky enough not to get a flat on my Mercier for over two years now.
When I first got the bike, I replaced the tires and sprayed the tubes with a pure
silicone spray - I use CRC from Grainger, but there are plenty of others available
at hardware or auto stores. Silicone spray is amazing, and significantly reduces
the drying out of rubber, vinyl, and related products. Over 2 years later and the tubes,

which I just checked last week, were still like new.
They don't stick to the rims either. Living in NJ/PA area the climate sees extreme temperture swings.
I also use silicone spray on the cables and inside the hoods.

On a side note, I have been using silicone on my vehicles for over 15 years.
The belts and hoses, battery cables, a dab inside the spark plug wire caps,
Rubber suspension parts, inside the door locks, weather stripping, etc.
It is amazing how much it extends the useful life and keeps parts from rotting
and drying out. It's great around the house as well. I call it the wonder chemical. :)

Uhm, I'm a noob, too, but taking a guess. "sits in during a race break" = sitting in a draft in between sprints or attacks without taking the lead, which leads to "take pulls" = pulling, or being in front and pulling those drafting behind you. The last one I know for sure, "boogs" = boogers, that crusty crap in your nose.
Right you are!

IMHO, The best upgrade to a bicycle is not the frame, wheels, components... the best way to improve your bicycle is to upgrade the engine.

So... You're saying I should sell my bike? :D

This might be more mental then actually helpful, but I find when climbing a big hill if I keep my body relaxed, and especially my face, I feel better at the top.

A tense body likely takes a lot of energy, and looking calm seems to rub off. It also makes other people think you're feeling better then you are.

If you're at a red light and are sneaking up beside a car (on the right, I do it all the time) I will only try to move beside the car if I know I have time to stick half my bike in front of the car. That way I know they see me. If I think the light is turning, or I'll have problems getting by the car, I don't attempt it.

I also often look back and smile at them. That way they know I'm friendly, and usually they don't try to hit me.

I really only get crampy if I've been off the bike for a while and am trying to get back in shape, or if my spin isn't as refined as it needs to be. Some people are more prone to cramps, like a fellow I used to ride with in Arizona. He taught me the following trick:

Some people carry a banana and eat it if/when they get a calf cramp. I carry tums in a zip-lock baggie in a jersey pocket. For me they work very quickly, but I've got to be quick with a chaser or else the chalkiness of the tums gums up my whole mouth.

Has saved my butt (or, rather, legs) on a few occasions!

before every ride..top up your air

being able to adjust 105 brakes correctly - i don't care how uncool you are, if you can get the 105 to not drag on the rim, you're my hero

-steve

double

-steve

i third the no tool/tire off method

and to learn that it takes...well.........practice

i cant repair a flat within 2 minutess now w/no tools(Execpt patches_


I'd like to see that... How many psi can you get blowing up the tube with your mouth? :p

With a cut tire, where the tube will stick out and pop again, place a dollar bill (or 5 pound note...) inside and insert/inflate new tube. Done this several times and I always carry a bill with spare tubes.

$100 bill to impress the hotties, $1 bill if you're poor. Actually, I was amazed when I bought a spare tube. The LBS guy asked if I had a tire boot. I told him no. He tore the end off the tube box and handed it to me. I've never cut a tire badly enough to need one one, but it looks like about the right size, shape, and thickness.

When you lube your chain, put one drop of chain lube on each roller on the lower chain, the chain loop that's closest to the ground. If you lube the upper chain, it will drip on the chain stays, tires, and rims. Then you will have to wipe down the bike, clean the rims with alcohol, because if you ride it, the lube will get in the brake pads and cause squealing besides longer stopping distances.

How about the most basic motion in cycling: the pedal stroke. I've seen people who have been riding for years that still don't understand that the most efficient stroke is similar to scaping mud off your shoe while the other foot pushes forward, not down, producing a nice "circle". Most riders pedal up and down in a piston like motion which produces a "square" and many a sore quad.

Passing gas on an ascent will give you the extra boost you need to get over the hump.

This works in race, TT, tri, any occasions.

I refuse to admit how long it took me when I started to ride a road bike a lot to figure out that you really had to pull back from the bars with your arms when you wanted to generate power. I started just turning the cranks and pushed against the friction of my butt on the seat. Then one day I leaned back and pulled my arms tight from the bars--BINGO--power!! Simple to understand now but it sure was not when I started. IMO, The arms are much more active in generating power than a beginner thinks.

I think it has more to do with the lats then it does with the arms (think of rows), though the tri's are a major component in the stabilization. [Just ride where there are a lot of traffic lights and take note of what primary muscles are being used when initiating momentum and speed.] IMO, keeping your lats in shape is just as important as keeping your quads and hams in shape.

Electric motors put ozone into the air. Storing your bike near a motor will greatly reduce tire life, may dry out & crack bar tape and synthetic seat materials. Got your bike stored in the basement near the furnace? I'd move it.

Use Vaseline (cold days) on your cheek bones to prevent wind burns. In a pinch, use chapstick.

Consider buying $8 safety classes at Wal-Mart. If you haven’t checked them out lately, they come in some cool styles that look like high end models. I’m always breaking my riding glasses, so this is the way I go. Now my personal classes, that’s a different story.

+cheap workstand- place the large "C" hooks with the threaded ends into the ceiling of the garage. then wrap a sock around the bottom area and , are you ready secure with duct tape. then you have a soft perch for your wheel rim to hang either end of the bike and put it in any position you like. I also place others in reach to hang wheels while I'm working. Also if you have a really nice paint job, almost pure carnuba wax without abrasives will keep your paint looking new. I have a 20 year old bike paint is still great, but it doesn't rain here. Put Wax on with bare hand, melts wax done in 15minutes.

...after every ride, especially if you put anything other than water in it.

To get rid of built up taste use dental cleanser tablets, like effordent. My favorite is the store brand that's ~$4 for 100 tablets. Fill your bottle with warm water and drop one or two tablets in, dependent on bottle size, and let it sit. It will keep your bottles from developing that nasty taste.

Jack

BTW, putting talc in dirt bike (motorcycle) tires works great to help avoid flats and tears. I tried it in road bike tires and found it only makes a mess and gave no benefit that I could tell.

...after every ride, especially if you put anything other than water in it.

To get rid of built up taste use dental cleanser tablets, like effordent. My favorite is the store brand that's ~$4 for 100 tablets. Fill your bottle with warm water and drop one or two tablets in, dependent on bottle size, and let it sit. It will keep your bottles from developing that nasty taste.

Jack

BTW, putting talc in dirt bike (motorcycle) tires works great to help avoid flats and tears. I tried it in road bike tires and found it only makes a mess and gave no benefit that I could tell.

I've been using special bottle cleaning tablets in my SIGG bottles. Now I know what they remind me of- and they cost a lot more than $4 for a 100. Thanks for the tip.

...after every ride, especially if you put anything other than water in it..

I use a baby bottle brush with a sponge end to get my bike bottles really clean.

It's a special deal. I do financial planning and I've saved the bike store owner thousands on his income tax by sharing with him some tax and financial strategies. He was so thrilled that he said he'd take care of me when I needed something. Now I need something and this is what he's doing for me.

But I just came back from another bike store and tried on a pair of Sidi Dominator 5, Sidi Genius 5, Diadora Team Racer, Diadora Ergo Plus, and the most comfortable for my feet was the Diadora Ergo Plus so I'll probably buy those.

I guess that last post went the wrong place.

For those of use switching over to the semi roadie scene from MTB's, I've been told that a well powdered 26" tube when inflated will fit onto a 700 rim. Just make sure the width of the tube isn't a down hill size. Smaller than 2.1 should work ok in a pinch. I have a couple prestas from a bike that got ripped of and was wonding what I was going to do with them, no I know they can work as my idiot bike tube like the donuts used on autos.

For those of use switching over to the semi roadie scene from MTB's, I've been told that a well powdered 26" tube when inflated will fit onto a 700 rim. Just make sure the width of the tube isn't a down hill size. Smaller than 2.1 should work ok in a pinch. I have a couple prestas from a bike that got ripped of and was wonding what I was going to do with them, no I know they can work as my idiot bike tube like the donuts used on autos.

Interesting, but why? Even good tubes are inexpensive, and using the wrong size sounds like it's inviting a blowout- and they're no fun.

I just returned from a trip from Ohio to Albany, N.Y. and back. I had some unfortunate flat tire luck. I needed a tube badly, but there were no bike stores within 50 miles. I went to a Walmart, and the only thing they had that was close was a 26" x 1 3/8" schrader valve tube. I was riding 27 x 1 1/4 tires, and the rims were drilled for schraders. I bought a couple of them. Fortunately, I didn't have to use them, but I figured they'd do if needed.

From a noob:

- My super cheap/thrifty substitute for a work stand is a ladder. I have a rather tall utility ladder in the house and I prop the hook the nose of the saddle on one of the joints that holds the ladder together. Best way I could figure to tune my drivetrain without the appropriate implement.

- Here's another cheap-o idea which may be a repeat or stollen idea (I'm not taking credit for this): I cut the top off of a gatorade bottle and use it to hold my tube, lever (speedlevers rock by the way), phone, cards and money. It goes in my seattube mounted cage.

- Be sure to angle any lights you have towards drivers. It makes no sense to have your taillight pointing straight back or into the bushes (unless it's a Dinotte anyways).

- once you figure out that your handlebars are centered on the stem, mount your headlight or front reflector right against the stem on the handlbar. That way if you ever need to change a stem or mount/dismount the handlebar for any reason you won't have to worry about centering and leveling it at the same time.

- I've had a good experience using foaming sneaker cleaner (from foot action or the like) in cleaning my bike. No long term observations though.

- To clean the cassette remove the rear wheel, insert a scrap of towel or tshirt between cogs, and pull side to side. This will ratchet the cassette and allow you to remove caked on gunk easily.

If you get cold enough that you feel the need to stop at Starbucks and warm up, pick one that is in a place where you will be riding up at least a shallow incline when it's time to go. If you leave and go even slightly downhill, you'll freeze extra deep - you didn't fully warm up in the coffee shop, but your internal furnace did shut all the way down.

In hard winter, the ride down the hill is the punishment for the ride up the hill. Or just get really great winter gear.

Cool thread...lots of things that I know...but also others that I didn`t. I`ll try to contribute

If you need to change a tubular tire and don`t have rim cement or other type of latex based adhesive , after removing the tire , rub the surface of the rim with gas or whatever solvent you can find, leave it a minute or so then mount the new tubular tire. !!This is just a temporary solution!!

Lean the rear wheel against the tire of your car when dealing with loading/unloading for a ride. This way if the bike falls, it won't "key" your car paint job.

Fenders are a good thing in the rain.

That's all for now.

Cheers,
Mike

Lean the rear wheel against the tire of your car when dealing with loading/unloading for a ride. This way if the bike falls, it won't "key" your car paint job.

Fenders are a good thing in the rain.

That's all for now.

Cheers,
Mike
now i know that...

One of the most uncomfortable situations in which to find yourself on a bicycle is riding down a relatively narrow 2 lane road with significant traffic in both directions. This, IME, is a scary situation for even very experienced riders. When there's oncoming traffic, cars following you will attempt to pass regardless if there's enough room. his results in them either passing way too closely, or you getting crowded off the road. If you can't avoid the road, which would be my 1st choice, here's the proper way to handle the situation.

It's called "taking the lane." Look behind you to see how far behind following traffic is from you. If they are a safe distance behind, meaning they don't have to slam on their brakes to avoid you, move out to the left tire track of the lane you're in and stay there until there's a break in oncoming traffic. When there's a break so that cars can pass you safely, kmove far to the right & wave them by. OK, this takes guts. Motorists may get angry, but they won't hit you. You might get some long horn honks, possible a gesture or two, maybe even some yelling, but you'll get home safely. Beginning riders, and even some very experienced riders are loathe to do this. It works. It's a hell of a lot better than being passed at 50 mph by a school bus that's close enough for you to reach out & touch. Be courteous, be understanding, be thoughtful, and also be assertive. You DOhave a right to be there. Letting them crowd you is very dangerous. Taking the lane is not.

I 100% agree with Mr. Versatile. Please take the lane for your protection. Ignore the honking and the yells at you out out the car window. You need to protect yourself! Take the lane. I also like a helmet mirror so I can see when the cars are coming so I'm not as surprised and find myself suddenly jerk on the bike and inadvertently do something stupid because I was surprised.

My favorite tip of all time is this:
sudden chilly day riding? old socks are much cheaper than shoe covers, just cut a hole for the cleat-wide enough around to not interfere-and you're good to go.

From a new rider

Yoga.

It is a lot more fun than you might think, and it really helps not only your body but your mind. I can't believe how relaxed I am after only doing it for an hour twice a week. So if you have a lot of stress sign up for yoga with a friend and go!

You've got to have a sock that is a whole lot bigger than your normal size to fit over the shoe.


This thread reminds me of what R&D really means... "R"ip-off & "D"uplicate!

You've got to have a sock that is a whole lot bigger than your normal size to fit over the shoe.


This thread reminds me of what R&D really means... "R"ip-off & "D"uplicate!
I'm not sure what you meant by your R & D comment, Bob. Could you explain?

I'm not sure what you meant by your R & D comment, Bob. Could you explain?

Most people thing R&D means Research & Development when it really means Rip-off & Duplicate. There aren't many really new ideas, just reformulations of old ones. This post does that. It shares common knowledge, or at least what's common to some and not others.

Most people thing R&D means Research & Development when it really means Rip-off & Duplicate. There aren't many really new ideas, just reformulations of old ones. This post does that. It shares common knowledge, or at least what's common to some and not others.
OK. I know what you mean. I've posted several tips for beginners on this thread, and I have to say that most of them I learned from other people. Does that make me bad? Am I ripping off others when I do that? I don't think so. I believe that there's very little new under the sun. To come up with a genuinely new idea that nobody's ever had before is a considerable task. I've done it a few times, as I'm sure you probably have. But to "dis" a whole forum (at least it seems to me like that's what you were doing) because people are posting advice and tips that were not original to them is foolish. Why do we teach history? Well, because people are not born with that knowledge, and it's beneficial for them to have it. Same thing with any subject. Nothing wrong with shared knowledge. I've learned a couple of neat tricks here, and I've been adult riding for a little over 50 years.

No, I wasn't dissing anyone. I use that term all the time for my own ideas and thought it was fun. Don't be so serious!

Thanks Bob. I guess I just misunderstood. It's all good.

Peace.

I've only been riding a couple years, have done a couple group rides and these are some things that made a big difference for me.

1. Clipless pedals-revolutionized my riding. Took me 9 months before I went clipless, but Shimano and Pearl Izumi have entry level combos that are good bang for the buck.
2. Make sure your water supply is good. I do like the thermal bottles and like a cool drink.
3. Don't get cheap on the riding pants. You need to spend time in the seat, so make sure your bike fits and your pants are padded!
4. It's always good to have someone to share the ride. My wife goes along with me roadbiking now, and a shared experience is even better.
5. Find cyclist who want to promote the sport. Lord knows there are are tons of "Lance wannabees" out there who will look down their nose at you for not spending as much on your bike as your car, but they are of little significance. True sporting people encourage newbies. Find them, they will teach you a ton and make the learning fun.
6. Finally, I do grab the water bottle with my left hand so if I have to hit the brakes, it will be the back ones, thereby saving a flip over the handlebars. And I do grab the seat with my left hand when looking back over my left shoulder for increased stability.
7. Have fun or you won't do it. There are 500,000 knee replacements done in the US annually. Cycling is fun and will preserve your joints into old age.

Grease on hands from changing wheel etc and no rag - use grass as a wipe. Simply wipe ya hands back n forth on the grass to remove up to 80% of the grease on the grass instead of your handlebar tape and jersey. Works well if slight moisture on grass, otherwise spit on hands and rub into grass. Green grass that is.

The easiest way to prevent your bike from falling over is to go ahead and lay it on the ground, drive side up. I've had my bike fall leaning against something or pedal on the curb. And it doesn't get scratched by posts or walls. It's never fallen over when on the ground. Just make sure it isn't in a place where someone may walk on it.

Hey all, I have a question about painting. I am looking to paint my new frame, with a matt finish. I want a flat solid black finish. I have looked online but have been unable to find a clear answer. what i'm looking for is advice on how to do it in house, and try to keep it cheap, but i know the less you spend the worse it looks. Any tips??

This is the wrong post for this topic. You should move it and make a separate post.

Take off all the components, sand it, buy yourself a can of spray paint or a spray gun and do it yourself. Go to an auto body/paint store and buy auto paint.

Another option is to go to a body shop and ask them to paint your bike. It would probably be best to ask a body shop to paint the bike a color that they are in the process of painting a car. This way they don't have to clean their spray gun.

Make a new thread in the General forum and you'll get a LOT more replies. Also tell us what the frame material is, etc.

If you lube the upper chain, it will drip on the chain stays, tires, and rims. Then you will have to wipe down the bike, clean the rims with alcohol, because if you ride it, the lube will get in the brake pads and cause squealing besides longer stopping distances.
Sounds to me like this is a case of putting too much lube. There is no reason for excess lube to be dripping off the chain. If there is excess, wipe off with a rag before riding.

My little contribution: If you have to touch the chain to put on a rear wheel or to undo chain suck, use your tire levers instead of your fingers. If fingers do get dirty, rub them or the road, tires, soles of your shoes etc, to get the grease off.

Use wet-lube for rainy periods and the dry lube (teflon/wax etc) for dryer times.

It always surprises me how many lube/chain problems people have. I use a wet lube 100% of the time and I never have any problems.

Once a week here how I treat my chain.
Step One - Wipe down the chain
Step Two - Spin the Pedals and spray the chain
Step Three - With a clean rag, wipe the excess off the chain
Done

I've been using Pedro's Dry Lube and it seems to work great. No issues. What do you use?

Whatever is on sale when I run out. White Lightning is what I got last time. I thought the spray bottle would make it easier but its really more of a pain. Unless you're really careful, the spray gets everywhere. I learned that the hard way when I cleaned by bike and the lubed the chain ... and then had to clean the bike again ...