C'mon let's hear your best 10 tips for the beginning road rider. If you want to get creative, how about best 10 tips for the experienced mtb'er -beginning road rider.

You know that feeling when you finally figure something out about riding and you say "hmm... would have been nice if someone told me that... last year". Well here's your chance to tell someone else.

No wisecracks please. I think collectively we all have some pretty useful insight to share.

francois

For riding in downtown areas:

If the driver is leaning way forward and looking side to side, he does not know where he is, and is liable to make a quick turn from whatever lane he's in, without looking.

Someone's sitting in a parked car--if they lean AWAY from the door suddenly, they're getting ready to open it, so give 'em some room.

General:

When you're removing pedals, always push the wrench handle toward the REAR of the bike to unscrew (reversed threads are confusing).

Bend your elbows slightly at all times--if you hit an unexpected bump you're less likely to lose your grip and do something horrible like slide off the front of the hoods.

Don't grimace, don't take a death grip on the bars--it just makes you tired faster. Related: In the rain, don't hunch your shoulders--this does not keep you dry, it just makes you tense.

Smooth always works better than violent on a bike.

Learn to remove and replace a tire/tube at home, not on the road.

Don't run over things unless you can't avoid them--you never know when they'll turn out to be slippery or sharp. Even the benign-seeming hickory nut can slash your tire wide open (don't ask me how I know this).

Don't make a habit of looking down to shift (if you have downtube shifters) or remove or replace your water bottle--looking down makes it harder to control the bike, and you'll feel more confident about letting go of the bars, and get better at it sooner if you look down as little as possible.

Learn to do your own adjustments and general maintenance, and do a once-over on a schedule (my cyclecomputer notifies me when I've got X number of miles since my last service--handy--but doing it on payday or trash day or anything will work). Regular looking after will prevent major trouble. Everybody says it, and lo and behold, it's true.

I wish I had 10 pearls of wisdom to offer.

However, I learned one thing a real value lately.

Out of the blue, my right knee started hurting after 40 miles or so. I mean, real pain. Saddle height didn't change, shoes, pedals, cleats, all the same.

The pain was in the front just left of center and it was excruciating. A friend who is a physical therapist probed my knee and my leg and said that I needed to stretch my inner thigh. Muscles and tendons can get so tight that they actually pull the knee joint out of alignment, thus causing pain and inflammation.

I'm lazy about stretching but at the first sign of knee pain I do it and it works.

C'mon let's hear your best 10 tips for the beginning road rider. If you want to get creative, how about best 10 tips for the experienced mtb'er -beginning road rider.

You know that feeling when you finally figure something out about riding and you say "hmm... would have been nice if someone told me that... last year". Well here's your chance to tell someone else.

No wisecracks please. I think collectively we all have some pretty useful insight to share.

francois

1) Ride lots.
2-10) See #1

O.K., O.K. I'll play nice. :D

2) Wash and dry your waterbottles after every ride.
3) Wash and dry your shorts after every ride.
4) To go longer-slow down and stop less often.
5) Don't pay any attention to your computers average speed function.
6) Do pay attention to how long it took you to do the ride including stops.
7) Train on heavy wheels/tires.
8) Do your important events on lite wheels/tires.
9) Ride in every weather condition except hurricanes, tornadoes, lightning and ice storms.
10) See #1

A few bonuses;
b1) Only stop at rest stops long enough to pick up some food and liquid. Eat and drink on the bike.
b2) If it is not fun, don't do it.
b3) Brooks saddles work.
b4) Learn how to do your own work on your bike.
b5) Learn how to fix your own flats.
b6) You can replace an innertube and be back on the bike in less than 2 minutes. Practice, practice, practice.
b7) See #1

1.) Listen to MB1

2.) Don't worry too much about your first bike....just get one that fits close, ride it for a year and then go to someone who knows how to fit you on a bike and buy another bike. It will be a completely different size. If you are paying attention to maintaining a flat back, your position will stretch out and change your sizing.

3.) You only have 3 contact points with the bike, pedals/shoes, seat & Handlebars. Make sure you spare no expense in getting comfortable with these. I see way too many newbies who spend tons on a bike and go cheap on shoes/pedals and seat/shorts and can't ride distance due to comfort. Don't go cheap on the contact points.

4.) You have to break your butt in as much as you have to break your seat in. Every time you ride longer, the first time your butt will hurt, the next time it will hurt less.

5.) Work yourself up to longer distance, don't try to do it all at once. I try to add 30 minutes /week to my longest ride of the previous week.

6.) Rest is as important as hard efforts.

7.) The easiest way to gain endurance is to practice relaxation on a ride. The more relaxed you are, even at hard effort, the more blood flow and oxegen you are getting to your muscles. Tense will get you tired faster than relaxed.

8.) Work on increasing your cadence. Do this by gradually increasing the cadence you ride at. It has to be soemthing you think about. Being able to ride at multiple cadences allows you to rest different things. To rest your cardio system spin slower, to rest your legs, spin faster.

9.) A more frequent hour ride will maintain your fitness, better than an infrequent longer ride.

10.) It's not (despite what this site might say) about the equipment.

Len

1) Off-road riding often includes lots of really hard efforts then stopping to regroup. Off-dirt riding doesn't.

2) Pavement is just another surface, match your tires (and suspension) to the surface and everything else you own works fine.

3) It is not the bike, it is the legs.

4) It is not the legs, it is the lungs.

5) Pay no attention to miles, pay attention to time.

6) Off-Dirt hills are not steep unless you have the wrong gears. Traction is not a problem.

7) Ride off-dirt for a while before you buy a new bike. Experience is more important than equipment.

7a) Stories are often told about how some MTBer showed up at a road ride on his hardtail and blew everyone away with how well he rode. Be that guy.

8) Don't be afraid to get your off-dirt bike dirty.

9) Don't repair your bikes, maintain them.

10) The best rides of all time are all-terrain rides (on and off dirt), you can do these with either an atb or a road bike. It ain't about the bike.

1. Figure out what your goals are, and write 'em down. Check them out again in six months...where are you? Are they still your goals? If not, readjust. Remember, we're talking about your goals...where it's perfectly fine to have a goal like "Just want to lose some weight and get fitter" or "gee, doing the roadie thing looks like a stone groove." Just don't lie to yourself, and be ready to readjust. I'm an Alpine Masters ski racer in the winter, and I know all kinds of people who say "just want to have fun and improve my skills"...until they wind up DFL at the first race. I started biking because my knees couldn't take running any more (too many years of 110 days a year on skis...)...then I decide to race some...then I decided to try mountain biking...then I got back into doing the roadie thing...and so forth. The next thing I want to do is go down to Colorado Springs and take a track bike clinic. If you don't know where you're going, any plan will do...but you'll never know where you are.

2. Lots of good advice in the replies above about not worrying too much about your first bike. The only thing I'd be a little anal about is getting a frame size that's about right (don't worry too much about geometry, materials, and so forth) and tune the fit with the aid of somebody who has a clue...most likely, the folks at your LBS. A difference of a centimeter in stem length makes a huge difference in bike position. There's a huge range, even for one person, in bike positions...some are more efficient/aero, others are more comfortable. Until you know what you really want, err on the side of more comfort...unneccessary pain and suffering are the two biggest reasons people quit road biking.

3. Ride alone...a lot. You've got to get comfortable with what you can do on a bike before you subject yourself to the close order drill and peer pressure of a group ride. Group rides are great, but your first one is likely to be an exercise in dodging wheels, getting yelled at for being a squirrel, and getting shucked off the back.

4. To continue #3, find a ride partner with similar goals/fitness and ride with him/her. It's the best way to pick up bike handling/paceline skills without having to worry unduly about ending up with a trip to McDonald's (a. k. a., "eating asphalt"). You'll learn a lot about all your basic skills, because one of you will climb better, one of you will spin better, and so forth. Go find a safe, deserted street and do some match sprints with your partner. It's not enough to be able to ride clean at 22 m. p. h. all day. You have to be able to accelerate to finish off a climb, to take your pull at the front in a paceline, and to make something happen fast when Bad Things start to happen.

5. Ride in a sponsored ride...for example, Elephant Rock. Shorter distance, though. Do 25 miles or 50 miles, not the full 100 mile monty. It'll be a great experience, and you'll get to ride with a wide range of riders...go-faster bike racers taking an "easy" training ride, families on tandems with a bike trailer behind, little old ladies on mountain bikes...who are leaving you in the dust...and a lot of folks just like you.

6. Go watch a bike race. In person, I mean. Sure, you can get a feel for what it's all about by watching the TDF on OLN. But you're not gonna know what somebody can really do on a bike until you go to a criterium and watch a pack of Cat 1/2/Pros wind it up to 30+ in a sprint...out of every corner.

7. Learn from your other sports. When I was teaching skiing, we used to say "You learn to play tennis in the winter, you learn to ski in the summer." Whatever else you do, it has a connection to being a roadie...think about it, make the connection, and you'll be a better athlete in both sports.

8. Pump some iron, do some stretching, do some yoga. You'll hear people say weights are a bad idea except for track sprinters. I disagree. You're about to use muscles you never used before, or use the same muscles in a different way. Your core/upper body strength is more important on a bike than most people realize...your legs do all the work, but a strong core/upper body makes a good, comfortable, enduring bike position/pedaling style possible.

9. Try some different bikes...once you get used to your steed. If your ride partner is about the same size, switch pedals, if you have to, adjust the fit, and go for a spin. You may feel better or worse, but you will feel a difference. You'll feel what works for you, what doesn't, and what doesn't matter. I've had 5 road bikes in my life, all good ones. The two I have now are lighter/better/faster...but I wouldn't know that unless I rode a few bikes, and at this point, even though I'll probably have one or two more before I hit that Great Peleton in the sky, the ones I have are just peachy...as they used to say in the old days, you want to feel the road, not the bike.

10. Ya gotta love it. Biking, at any level, with any set of goals, is some hard stuff a whole lot of the time. It's not skiing, where you have gravity always available as an instant accelerator. The bike doesn't go anywhere unless you pedal it. But, wow...what a rush!...when you do pedal it. Don't ever forget that...

10) Pie is a running joke in here. Don't worry about it too much.

9) No underwear under the riding shorts.

8) Drafting. Stay to one side of the wheel you're drafting. Don't overlap.

7) Learn some Italian, some French . . . chic alors, prego, ciao.

6) Pie is good hot or cold.

5) Snot rockets are OK. Warn others. Do it off the back of the peloton.

4) Shaving is complicated. Asking your girlfriend for tips is OK.

3) You can shave better than your girlfriend. Giving her tips is OK.

2) Shimano is Japanese. No one speaks Japanese in the peloton. Pourquoi ca?

1) Pie will get you through the miles better than the miles will get you through the pie.

:D :D :D

1. Ride in the rain (Unless it is really cold you don't have to dress a whole lot different) People will think you are crazy and it is fun.
2. Don't be obssesive with your bike cleaning. Just keep your shifting and drivetrain in shape. I wash my bikes three of four times a year and they serve me fine.
3. Learn how to work on your own bike, at least the little stuff.
4. Don't worry about bike weight unless you are below 10 percent body fat. It is cheaper to diet than buy lightweight bike parts.
5. If you are a big person, don't buy the lightweight expensive stuff, You will tear it up and maybe kill yourself in a wreck.
6. Carry a tire boot, make it out of an old tire with the beads cut off both side and about 3 inches long.
7. Always ask a cyclist stopped along the road if they need anything as you ride by and stop if they say yes.
8. Take rides where you aren't really sure where you are going, how you will get there and how long it will be till you get back.
9. Buy a wind vest, arm warmers and knee warmers. These three items will extend a fair weather rider's season by at least 4 months.
10. Enjoy every ride, I do.

Pie is cheaper than a light bike.

A light bike is faster than cheap pie.

Go figure . . . :D :D :D

1) Practice clipping in and out of pedals in a parking lot. Get this down. You will fall and feel trapped in the pedals. Don't worry. Practice, adjustments and time will stem the fear.

2) Clip away from the tire, meaning spin your back heel away from the wheel, it can damage(untrue) the rim.

3) Try to avoid heavy traffic roads with narrow shoulders until you have handling of the bike down somewhat.

4) Don't ride the concrete gutters along the streets even though some are pretty wide. There are at times huge gaps between the asphalt and the gutter that can trap your wheel and send you down.

5) Carry some change, a tube and pump. Also those little brass presta couplers incase you need to fill from a station.

6) As mentioned good clothes, helmet, gloves to wipe the brow and cycling shades are great.

7) Keep the bike clean, lubed and ready for the next ride.

8) Get to know the local LBS and ask for riding suggestions in your area.

9) Invest in a good bike rack and take it with you on a weekend trip or vacation. Riding quiet scenic back roads is some great times.

10) Have fun!

2) Clip away from the tire, meaning spin your back heel away from the wheel, it can damage(untrue) the rim.


What's this mean? What can damage the rim? What are we clipping? My heels don't spin, but they rotate. What's untrue?

Not being a wizazz here. I'm entirely confused by what you're talking about.

What's this mean? What can damage the rim? What are we clipping? My heels don't spin, but they rotate. What's untrue?

Not being a wizazz here. I'm entirely confused by what you're talking about.

When you release your shoe from clipless pedals turn your heel AWAY from the rear wheel not TOWARDS the rear wheel.

my bad. No offense taken.

2) Clip away from the tire, meaning spin your back heel away from the wheel, it can damage(untrue) the rim

Shoulda said when clipping out rotate away from the rear wheel. MB1 said it correctly. Thanks.

When I started out road biking I would do anything to get out of those darn clipless pedals. I found it easiest to rotate inwards towards the rear wheel until once I released so hard I bent the rim(untrued) it. Learned real fast to get out of those pedals correctly.

1. Buy a copy of "Zinn's guide to ....Biking maintenance" Not only is it a good read for technical answers, it has a ton of just good to know info.
2. Shop around. It is a great thing to have a LBS. However, they sometimes don't have the best deal or information. It doesn't cost anything for a second opinion. It's your money. Be well informed before you spend.
3. Buy some tools. Sure, Park Tools are great. Some other thing like wrenches, screwdrivers, allens, etc. can be had cheaper from Sears.
4. Ask questions. This forum was designed specifically for new users or first timers. Don't hesitate to ask. Unlike the other forums, here you can fire away on about any bike related topic with immunity. So, relax and fire away.
5. Do not, under any circumstance, wear underwear under you biking shorts. I'm sorry, that's just a no-no.
6. Thicken your skin. You will make mistakes about anything related to a bike. Weather it's a mechanical question or maybe your opinion on a bike related topic. Be ready to learn lessons the hard way. Everone make mistakes. Be ready to face them, then learn to not repeat them.
7. Please wear a hemet.
8. Learn the laws that apply to your area regarding headphones, bike lanes, or "share the road" programs.
9. Not every "ticking" sound is from your Bottom bracket. It only takes an eighth of a millimeter with metal to metal contact to make an audible noise. Don't panick, use your copy of Zinn's or post here.
10. Have fun!

2) Wash and dry your waterbottles after every ride.
3) Wash and dry your shorts after every ride.
4) To go longer-slow down and stop less often

I've just started using these tips. The last one was very useful today. I did 40 miles and stopped only to quickly refill my bottle. Once I get a 2nd bottle cage, I foresee at least 50% less stops. :D Thanks MB1

1. Before you speed off in your car with the bike atop make sure you have your shoes! It is the one thing you can not leave behind. Helmets are very nice as well. Think about glasses, tube/lever, pump,and water!

2. Before riding bike! Tires pumped chain was oiled.

3. Water bottles kept in freezer do not need to be cleaned as often.

4. Keep 20 bucks inside your handlebar for a emergency.

5. Fix little problems with your bike as they occur. Dont let things build up.

6. Carry an ID if you ride alone.

7. Cell phones are nice too.

8. Eat good and drink lots of water all the time.

9. New tires dont go flat as often as old ones.

10. Dont overdo it, know your limits and take it easy.

MB1 and Len J have just about said it all. But, there is one thing that I would emphasize -- learn how to ride in all weather (and light) conditions. If you only ride on perfect days, you will have lots of down time (at least in the middle and northern parts of the US). I have reached the point where I actually enjoy winter and nighttime riding. I also notice that the guys who are kicking my butt on group rides in September and then hibernate for the Winter take a long time to get up to speed in the Spring. It has taken me a long time to get up to my modest level of bike fitness -- I don't want to lose it over the Winter.

The key to winter and nighttime riding is having the proper equipment. With the right clothing and lights you can ride in almost any weather and light conditions. That being said, there are times when discretion is the better part of valor -- don't ride in thunderstorms, hurricanes or blizzards. Riding when the temperatures are above 95 degrees is not a good idea either, unless you are an acclimated rider from the southwest.

1. Lots of good stuff said. Most folks give advice based on years of experience. Read it, follow it, save money and live to ride another day.

2. When looking to the rear for approaching traffic, tuck your chin into your shoulder. This will prevent you from swinging out wide and into traffic.

3. Watch the driver of a vehicle waiting to enter the roadway or turning across your lane. You can usually tell if they see you or not. A drivers body language will tell you more about what he/she is going to do than the turn signals. Ride defensively.

4. ***It may or may not be legal to pass on the right in your State, however, when passing vehicles waiting at a stop light, watch for driveways. A driver waiting in the far right lane at a traffic light will make a right turn into the drive without looking back for oncoming traffic. (Speaking from experience) ***Although many riders do this, many do not because of this danger.

5. Learn the laws of your State regarding riding a bicycle on roadways. Every State is different. Remember, just because it's "legal", doesn't mean it's safe!

6. Listen to your body. There's good pain and bad pain. Burning lungs and burning muscles from lactic acid are good pain. Sharp or dull pain in the joints or muscles is bad pain. Don't continue to ride with bad pain. Find the cause before a serious injury developes and ruins your season. It may be as simple as raising or lowering the saddle.

7. The painted white lines on the roadway can become very slick when wet.

8. You usually ride where you are looking, and ride/run over what you are looking at. When making fast descents on winding roads, look farther ahead, around the curve, than you would under normal riding conditions. And, don't look at that nail in the road and expect to avoid a flat. If you stare at it, you will run over it. (Im not sure if I explained that well enough)

9. Remember it's suppose to be fun. Keep it that way!

10. Last but certainly not least. Do not wipe sweat and snot with the same sleeve or glove hand!

why'd the rest of us even bother posting.....

"MB1 and Len J have just about said it all"

More stuff:

1. Read books (fiction and non-fiction) about cycling. Bobke II (american guy), The Yellow Jersey (english guy), The Rider (dutch guy), Love for the Ride (french guy, I think). That Lance guy has a couple of books also. Not to mention all the training bibles out there....

2. Watch some movies. Yeah American Flyers is cheesy, but it IS about our favorite sport (and Eddy's in it!). Breaking Away is a classic. Lots of good stuff about actual races.

3. Get an old-school bike, with downtube shifters. Better yet, go Fixed!

4. In short, immerse yourself in the sport! Obsess about it, read about it, talk about it.

Oh yeah, what MB1 and others have said too.....

Scott

mountain bikes should be short and small. road bikes are different animals.. don't buy smaller than the size you should ride. slightly bigger won't hurt.. while a too small road bike will make you give up road riding

here is just a quick one:

After riding in the rain, the best and quickest way to dry out your shoes is to stuff them with newspaper.

pedal circles. you think you already are? you're not.

No wisecracks please. I think collectively we all have some pretty useful insight to share.
francois

Free download @ http://roadbikerider.com

#1- Not original but it's worth repeating. Don't upgrade- ride up grades......

#2- Learn basic bicycle mechanics. You should know how to change a flat, adjust your brakes and adjust your derailleurs.

#3- If you think upgrading from Shimano 105 to Dura Ace will make you faster, you are sadly mistaken....

#4- listen to MB1

I've been posting here about as long as anybody, I think, and I'm constantly surprised at the number of posts about what kind of shorts/jersey/helmet ("Can I use an MB helmet on my road bike?")/even socks you should wear, or whether it's OK to use a triple if you can't climb hills in your 39-19. At the level where the huge majority of us ride, improvement is going to come from conditioning, not from taking 100 grams off the bike or changing pedal systems. Just get on and ride, and when you reach a point that the bike is holding YOU back, instead of the other way around, you'll know it and know what to do about it.

Despite your overwhelming drive to be cute, please post using descriptive titles.

Posting a question which title is "Do you think that .... " or "Why is it true that ... " is just annoying and non-informative. It will get a lot of hits, but not necessarily from the people who can actually answer.

Posting a question which title is something along the lines of "How to true a wheel" is much, much better.

Most shifting problems can be cured by a half turn counter clock-wise on a barrel adjuster.

Check/inflate your tires before every ride and give 'em a squeeze after every ride.(Twice I've discovered a tire with low preasure and a leak by doing this, it saves you from a flat on the road sometimes.)

1) Ride lots.
2-10) See #1

O.K., O.K. I'll play nice. :D


10) See #1

A few bonuses;

b3) Brooks saddles work.
b6) You can replace an innertube and be back on the bike in less than 2 minutes. Practice, practice, practice.
b7) See #1

I was seriously considering getting rid of the bike and writing off cycling in January before I got my brooks b17 saddle. Check out wallbike.com for a 6 month return policy! Wish I had gotten the honey colored one but money is real tight.

Most of all, have lots of fun. I complain that my speed improvement is coming so slowly and people advise me to go on group rides and get dropped by faster riders.

Been there done that and the only advantage it has over being the last guy picked on your 6th grade gym class softball team is that at 40 years old, I am better equipped to deal with the humiliation. I suppose it would work, though.

Gregg

as an avid mountain biker and a new road biker the only piece of advice i can offer is be on time for your rides or you may find yourself riding alone. no one likes showing up to your place for a 9 AM ride for you to still be sleeping and your bike is in various stages of disassembly.

"dont worry i just have to put on a new rear derailleur and stop by the shop to get my wheels trued, we will be rolling in no time"

maybe its just me but i get ready the night before a ride, not 20 minutes after you were supposed to meet.

also dont make fun of the new guys. we may not have the best and most expensive gear but we do share the love of cycling and are having fun just the same as you.

here is just a quick one:

After riding in the rain, the best and quickest way to dry out your shoes is to stuff them with newspaper.

Remove the insoles first. Do this after every ride. If you let your shoes dry out, they should last longer and they'll be more comfortable when you put them back on.

I know you shouldn't forget your tire levers but I have seen guys on mountain bikes leave there underseat bags open and then everything proceeded to bounce out and down the mountain.

So if you find yourself without tire levers and a flat tire just use you quick release levers to get the job done. If you are worried about your nice shiny black rims getting scratched you can just walk out or wait for someone who was prepared!

One trick I like to do is when I'm approaching a 4 way stop with a car stopped at the intersection on my right waiting to see what I'll do, I'll occasionally (if the situation fits it) signal like I'm going to make a right hand turn, then as soon as the car goes I continue to go straight through the intersection. I do this to avoid the situation of both parties stopping to figure out who has the right of way. If people see you're signaling right, they don't hesitate to go, where as if you don't signal right, they may hesitate, then you both stop. So I pull this "white lie" to get the car to clear the intersection.

mountain bikes should be short and small. road bikes are different animals.. don't buy smaller than the size you should ride. slightly bigger won't hurt.. while a too small road bike will make you give up road riding

Agreed, here here!

When you're removing pedals, always push the wrench handle toward the REAR of the bike to unscrew (reversed threads are confusing).

Over the cranks and toward the hub ;) cuase you could go under and it would be the wrong way.

Lets see if I can help

1. Always bring one extra water bottle
2. Dont look at your speed
3. always look up
4. tuck your knees and elbows, and crouch in
5. Only use brakes at intersections
6. Petal 1/2 way down hill
7. Jelly beans actually are good to eat on a ride
8. bike at least 1 hr after eating
9. if your going to ride go at least 45 minutes
10. Dont own the road, share the road, thats how I hit a camaro at nearly 40 mph...

I don't have 10, but...

1) In the beginning, you only need to work on doing two things well - pedaling and breathing. Before you set all kinds of crazy weightloss, time/distance goals, work on being able to pedal smoothly and breathe in unison. I can lose miles of road and weeks of work stress just focusing on the Zen that is pedaling and breathing.

2) Uphill is a state of mind. Your average NFL player would say that 90% of climbing is half mental. Seriously, embrace the hill - the climb is your friend. Glory is at the top of every climb. If you keep on riding the same hills, you'll notice they keep getting shorter with each ride.

3) Ride at your pace. You may race at some point in the future, but there is no need to start now. If someone is flying by you up the hill, concentrate on your cadence and make sure it doesn't speed up. Until you've truly gotten to know your body, you'll just burn yourself out un-necessarily while providing a bit of comic relief for those who pass you. When you start doing it to others on a consistent basis, you'll be relieved to know that you were never "that guy".

4) If you are in a ride group and have problems with your bike, look for someone with hair on their legs to help you. The individual will either be a Fred or a former MTB'er, but you'll have a much higher percentage chance of them helping you. Former MTB'ers are the best since they tend to still carry 10 lbs of tools around for the first 6 months of road riding.

5) If you are biking solely for the purpose of losing weight, you need a change of attitude. You may actually gain weight for the first few months of riding as muscle builds on your body. My best advice is to not focus on your weight at all, instead focusing on having a good time riding. Exercise is not fun, but riding is. If you truly get the bug, you'll never have to worry about weight again anyway.

6) Make friends with people who ride a lot. You might start riding with your regular friends, but you will find out over time that they are not nearly as consistent as the people you meet on the road/trail. Don't be afraid to introduce yourself to a group in the parking lot or at the trailhead. You may find yourself with a whole new circle of friends that will never flake on a ride.

7) You are not Lance Armstrong. If you are just starting out on the bike, Cytomax, Gu, and powerbars are not going to help you. It will be awhile before you need to take on food for a ride.

1 Don't stand if you can sit and dont sit if you can lay down.
2 Always bring a patch kit,tire irons and air pump/gun.
3 Money is good, cell is better.
4 Bring more food than you think you need on 4+ hour rides.
5 Always where sunscreen, especially on road rash.
6 Have a meal ready after a long ride so you can eat as soon as you get home.
7 Pass as many people as possible! :D :D
8 Helmets are a must.
9 Spare batteries for your MP3 player
10 The air conditioning turned on so you can sleep!

7) You are not Lance Armstrong. If you are just starting out on the bike, Cytomax, Gu, and powerbars are not going to help you. It will be awhile before you need to take on food for a ride.


A true statement. Keep in mind that "a while " is the key operator here. Riders progress at different levels. That really depends on what level you are starting. If you haven't ridden a bike since you were a child, forget energy supplements. But...if you are somewhat physically fit and have experience on a mountain bike or with running, your road biking speed and stamina will increase quickly over a short time. Once you start really pushing yourself, energy gels will help. Cytomax is good for all levels of strenuous exercise because it decreases the lactic acid buildup that causes soreness.

I know, I know no joking on this thread, but here are some etiquette tips I found that are funny as hell and have a slight amount of truth:

1. If you pass an unaware cyclist: When passing another cyclist, there's a good chance she does not know you are behind her. If you say "Hi" as you go by, you may startle her, prompting her to fall off her bike (I have in fact actually caused a bike accident this way). If you ring your little bike bell, you may startle her similarly. If you ride by without saying anything, you will be thought of as inexplicably rude. What should you do? Speed up and yell "TRACK!" or "LEFT!" and blow by as impressively as possible.

2. If you encounter a cyclist coming from the opposite direction: Cyclists are required by law to aknowledge one another, primarily to express solidarity and a shared love of the sport. You don't have long, but try to convey, with a simple gesture, "Hey, we're both on bikes and are therefore morally superior to the people currently in cars." But you've got to be casual about it. If you are riding in an upright position (mountain bike, cruiser), it's fine to lift your hand and wave. If you are on a road bike and have your hands on the hoods, lift the fingers of your left hand, without removing the hand from the hoods. If you are in the drops, a simple bob of the head will suffice.

3. If you encounter a cyclist on a recumbent bicycle, in either direction: Spurn him. Do not aknowledge, and do not return aknowledgment if offered. Recumbent cycles are nothing more than a desperate plea for attention, and by acknowledging him, you become an enabler. Do not enable silliness, even if it works. Above all, do not express appreciation/admiration/interest in the recumbent cycle---even if you want one desperately.

4. If you pass someone during a race: Do not say, "How's it going?" because the honest answer the person you're passing would have to give is, "Not as well as I previously thought." Instead, say, "Looking strong, dude," because it makes you sound generous, while at the same time implying that if your vanquished foe is looking strong, you are looking even stronger. It's all about psychology.

5. If you are passed during a race: Don't give an excuse belittling your opponent's accomplishment (e.g., "My spleen hurts." or "I'm coughing up blood"). Instead, say, "Rock on, dude." It makes you sound like a good sport, not to mention a hep cat.

This comes up a couple times in here, bears repeating --

Actually ensure you can change your tire and get back on the road with the tools you carry. Don't assume they're going to work. That bag under the seat is an "Emergency Kit" and needs to be maintained.

Check tire pressure before EVERY ride. But you should also check out the whole bike before you jump on it and ride. Having the "wheels come off" at speed can get you killed. One reason road bikes are traditionally spotlessly clean is because cleaning the bike allows you to check over every little item -- cracked frames, loose nuts, frayed cables, uneven wheels/rims, brake releases in released position . . .

Useful for me:

1: When I am biking when there is cold outside (around +8 degree Celsius or less),
I usually fill up a glass of water and let it be in my room before I am leaving.
More comfortably to drink water who has roomtemperature (+20 Celsius) that the
cold water right from the fridge! It helps me to drink faster too.

2: check regulary that the wheels are true. Avoids accident and breakdown out there.
3: Check regulary that all of the screws and nuts are sitting firm. Anything can happen!

4: Use thermos bottle to keep the water warm and at stable temperature.
To drink +4 degree (ice and water) in 0 degree or less is awful.
Easier to be dehydrating in such cold weather when the water is cold.
I use 0.5 liters thermos bottles, these fit right in my bottle holder.
it is always nice with cocoa/coffee at the long trips in the winter.
Truly relaxing to drink hot coccoa after 7 hours in -7 degree Celsius! :D

5: Try to NOT loose those (expensive) thermos bottle. (I usually does that.) :(

6: Learn to know your own brakes. Learn to use the front brake.
Learn to know the ground and the feeling when the front wheel is slipping.
Then you releases the brake level a little. That help's a lot. Believe me.

Locking the back wheel does not help much.
The brake effect is at maximum when the both of wheels are at the slighty locking level, but still rolling slowly as possible without slipping.

Experience is always a good thing. Learn to hold your brakehandle correct so you can
brake effectly (I did that mistake first time, and braked weakly to avoid chrashing in a car!)

7: have fun!

8: When cycling with heavy bagage, try to have the most of it AT the bike, not at your back.
More comfortable and one can be cycling longer/faster and be less tired.
Believe me, 15kg at your back is not nice after one hours! :D
if it is halfed down to 6-7kg, it would be much easier. Believe me, it is a big difference.

9: Learn to know your own body. Feel your legs. Be patient and careful if they are weak or in pain.

there! any comments?

Sorry if this has been answered but why should one not wear underwear under cycle shorts?


Cheers,


Steve.

Ive only got one year and 2,000 miles on my bike's clock, but the one piece of advice I could give someone is the following:

NEVER listen to the yahoos who blurt out "If youre not riding for at least X hours or X miles, its not doing a thing and isnt 'worth it'."

Yeah...it would be GREAT if we had multiple hours to drop down 30-50 miles each day. But LIFE (and these days, less daylight) seem to often get in the way. If all youve got is 45 minutes to bang out 15 miles then take it, make the best of it and enjoy! Whatever your fitness level is, 45 minutes of good excercise is NEVER a bad thing, no matter what those snooty big shots tell you.

Lesson #1:

It is cheaper to diet than buy lightweight bike part.-- or a light bike for that matter.

Get a bike that fits, don't worry about the weight until you're fast. Otherwise you are throwing your money away.

But if a new bike catches your fancy....... well we all have a weakness.

:)

Many new riders have to deal with saddle sore.

A couple of things to keep in mind:

High end shorts won't help.

Saddles with lots of padding actually hurt you in the long run.

Seats with the hole in them are questionable.

Just ride a little bit shorter but more often and you'll find that the pain goes away.

Good luck.

when being overtaken by a car from behind you, never ever assume its A car, assume its AT LEAST ONE car, possibly more. if not, you sometimes have a notion to move out into the lane and another car could be there.

1.) Buy and use chamois cream/balm when ever you ride. You will thank yourself.

2.) Take AT LEAST two tubes with you. Always. Even if you are only going out for a 1 hour recovery ride.

3.) Make eye contact with drivers. You have know idea if they know you are there, unless you make eye contact.

4.) Buy a good frame pump. Micro pumps are small and light and all, but they suck for filling up tires.

5.) Use hand signals.

6.)Always have cash, ID, and a cell phone on you.

7.) A tire at 110psi is faster, and more comfotable, than a tire at 130psi. Did I mention that it is faster?

8.) If you are going to leave your bike in a black vehicle on a hot day while you go for a post race beer, let the air out of the tires.

9.) A helmet is useless unless it fits you properly.

10.) Buy new cleats every season. It makes your pedals feel new again for little money.

7.) A tire at 110psi is faster, and more comfotable, than a tire at 130psi. Did I mention that it is faster?

Thank you for all the good tips. I'm curious: I can believe the "more comfortable" but I always thought higher pressure meant less rolling resistance, and is therefore "faster."

Please explain the error in my thinking!



:confused:

Thanks,
motobacon

Don't overinflate the tires in an attempt to lower rolling resistance because you're guaranteed to get a flat along an imperfect road.

When approaching a hill, switch to a lower gear than is immediately necesssary; one that will be appropriate when you're in the middle of the hill so that your cadence never slows

Bike seats should be horizontal. Period.

Raise the saddle if you are experiencing discomfort in the front of your knees. Lower the saddle if you experience pain in the back of your knees.

Make sure to exercise and stretch the hamstrings because the quads are usually overdeveloped in riders and injury can result from the imbalance.

Incorporate running into your regimen because weight-bearing exercise strengthens your bones. Alot of pro-riders don't like to walk or climb stairs because their muscles have become so specialized.

Should you win a stage race, shake the champagne vigorously and wet the podium girls; they like that...and you might get lucky.

Throw 'em in a lingerie bag; cold water cycle. Air dry and Voila! They'll smell good as new.

1.) cleats are dangerous on the slick concrete/tile floors in public restrooms.
2.) take one small bite of your energy bar every 15mins- eating the whole thing at once will upset your stomach.
3.) as you're riding "out," make mental notes of where water is available so that when you're riding "back," you'll know where to re-fill your bottles.
4.) learn how to bunny-hop. it's more useful than you think, and people think it's really flippin' cool to see a roadie bunny-hop over a soda bottle at 25mph.
5.) always smile and say "MORNIN'!" to people that you see, whether they are walking, jogging, or on bikes.
6.) if you are planning on getting off of your bike and going indoors, whether it is a store or a friend's house or whatever, stop and check your face in the side mirror of parked car to make sure that you don't have snot hanging off your nose or something.
7.) "cappuccino" flavor Powerbars stick to the wrapper like glue.
8.) remember that what you do will affect the public's opinions of all cyclists.
9.) people in cars cannot see cyclists. they just can't.
10.) don't forget to have fun.

1. Make sure the bike fits. You'll enjoy riding more and stay with the sport longer.
2. Be steady: keep your line, don't vary your speed suddenly when riding within a group, pay attention to what's happening around you.
3. Drink!
4. Cinelli cork bartape is very comfortable.
5. I've seen more people fall down riding SPD pedals than anything else (couldn't unclip).
6. Smile, wave to people and say hi. Be courteous.
7. Learn how to draft correctly.
8. Clean the bike. It's happier and faster that way.
9. Get good tires and wheels. While Continental Grand Prix tires are not my favorite, you can't go wrong with them. Veloflex tires come off the rim very easily if you have a flat (very seldom with these tires). Velocity rims are very strong. Buy wheels suitable to your build and riding style.
10. There's a reason for helmets. Protect your noggin. You never know when you're going down.

some great advice here- surprisingly, though, group-riding skills/etiquette haven't really been touched on yet, so allow me:

-If you're relatively new to group riding, stay on the left side of the back, away from the curb. You'll stay more clear of pot-holes, dips in the pavement and debris, and you won't feel trapped between other riders and the curb.
-Don't overlap wheels when drafting. Keep your tire a bit to the left or right of the rider in front of you, but with your wheel 2 or 3 inches behind that rider's tire as well
-If you're leading a pack on a descent, DO NOT use more brake than absolutely necessary.
-Keep your upper body loose and relaxed- if you're squeezing the life outta your bars with tension, youre not able to pull off quick direction-changes
-Point out pot holes, garbage, w/e, when in a pack. This is not so much a courtesy as a necessity when those behind you can't see the road.
-Don't freak out when other riders bump into you lightly while riding, this is normal. Some more experienced riders may literally "push" you on a tough climb. accept the help gratefully.

some other stuff: for the totally clueless noob, take your visor off your helmet if it's a mtb helmet. All it will give you is a back neck-ache from having to crane your neck to increase your field of vision. If you're trying to save money, do it on the jersey or the helmet, not the shorts. Camelbak's are for mountain bikes.

This might have been listed, but I didn't see it....

Unless you are a master mechanic, develop a good relationship with your Local Bike Shop.
But at the same time, don't use them to change a flat for you, they are pros and doing simple things like fixing flats is just wasting their time. When you need a great mechanic it will be worth all the extra 10 minutes of gabbing with them on a weekly or monthly basis. TRUST ME.

...nobody said it's always a good idea to keep a presta/schraeder adapter with them. Here's the scoop. I keep a mini-pump...say what you will...which works well in getting the tube pretty much inflated. When I reach the first gas station I use the adapter and fill the tire as needed. Most of the time I am close...within 20psi always. It works for me...but then I AM one of those ex-MTB'ers that carry 10 pounds of tools.

When cleaning and lubing my chain, I have one link that I've market on the side with a black magic marker as my starting and ending point.

When putting on tires, line up the label with the stem. That way when you get a flat and find the hole in the tube you know where to look on or in the tire to see if there is a rip or even glass still in the tire.

Someone posted:

9 Spare batteries for your MP3 player

Should you really ride with a iPod? I haven't even bought my bike yet (still in the "am I really going to use it enough to justify a mortgage payment" phase), but is seems like common sense that you will want to be able to hear things around you. I wear the iPod while i run, but I also run on sidewalks or jogging paths, and need not worry about that idiot in the Excursion with the cell phone tucked under their chin reaching around to smack the misbahving youngster or dog.

Many new riders have to deal with saddle sore.

A couple of things to keep in mind:

High end shorts won't help.

Seats with the hole in them are questionable.

Good luck.


I beg to differ. Shorts quality DOES matter, and a lot. Sadly, quality is proportionate to cost. Cheap shorts with funky seams can absolutely lead to misery.

And at least for women, "seats with the hole in them" dominate the lion's share of the serious recreational roadie market and with good reason... a little relief for soft tissue. Next time you are with an experienced group of women riders, count the number of Terry saddles... I'm just saying...

Ipods are great for the bike path solo ride.
The key to using it, is low volume.

1- slow and ask everyone on the side of the road with a mechanical if they have everything they need. not everyone is a former mountain biker.

2- commute to work by bike, its great.

3- read this whole thread.

4- bike trainers can work as poor-mans work stands.

5- ive found its very beneficial to ride with someone faster than you and someone slower than you. do it separately. pass on the knowledge.

6- carry id yes, but also carry a bank card and health insurance info, esp if youve an conditions or allergies.

7- throw your energy wrappers on the side of the road/trail and i will hunt you down and give them back to you in a VERY pissed off manner.

8- if you ride with an ipod do so responsibly. i cut off one earbud and rewired both channels into the remaining side, i wear it on the non road side, low volume with the inline remote. tool is some of the better riding music.

9- turn your lights on before you need to. from personal experience you will get alot better settlement from insurance companies if you had you lights on when you were hit, you were doing your part to be seen.

10- dont listen to me. ride, spring is here and its nice, get out and ride

The pain was in the front just left of center and it was excruciating. A friend who is a physical therapist probed my knee and my leg and said that I needed to stretch my inner thigh. Muscles and tendons can get so tight that they actually pull the knee joint out of alignment, thus causing pain and inflammation.


Hey Paul, I've had the same problem (but was never diagnosed correctly); what's your stretch routine like for your inner thigh (or whatever stretches help the knee alignment problem)?

Much thanks!

paul

some great advice here- surprisingly, though, group-riding skills/etiquette haven't really been touched on yet, so allow me:

-If you're relatively new to group riding, stay on the left side of the back, away from the curb. You'll stay more clear of pot-holes, dips in the pavement and debris, and you won't feel trapped between other riders and the curb.
-Don't overlap wheels when drafting. Keep your tire a bit to the left or right of the rider in front of you, but with your wheel 2 or 3 inches behind that rider's tire as well
-If you're leading a pack on a descent, DO NOT use more brake than absolutely necessary.
-Keep your upper body loose and relaxed- if you're squeezing the life outta your bars with tension, youre not able to pull off quick direction-changes
-Point out pot holes, garbage, w/e, when in a pack. This is not so much a courtesy as a necessity when those behind you can't see the road.
-Don't freak out when other riders bump into you lightly while riding, this is normal. Some more experienced riders may literally "push" you on a tough climb. accept the help gratefully.


-If riding in a pack with riders next to you on either side, it's safest to have your bars immediately adjacent to either their bars or their hips. As the above post said, don't worry about knocking bars, elbows, or hips with your neighbor.

-Avoid using brakes when in a paceline/pack at all. If you need to slow down, sit up taller, or move out to the side slightly and allow the airstream to slow you down.

-Pass along any messages you receive from the front to the guy behind you. For instance, if someone up front shouts "pothole", pass the message along by shouting "pothole" to the riders behind you. Same thing goes for pointing at hazards.

-If you need to spit in a paceline/pack, spit down between your arm and your thigh, NOT out to the side.

-Learn to remove and replace your water bottle from/to its cage by feel without looking down.

-When it's your turn to pull at the front of a paceline, don't suddenly speed up so that your riders can't hang on. Maintain the pace that the line had before you started pulling (unless, of couse, you are in a race and you want to make an attack straight off the front). You can gradually increase your speed when pulling if the line wants to pick up the pace.

-Pull for a minimum of 10 seconds, but don't pull for longer than you feel you are capable of sustaining.

-At the front, you are the eyes of the paceline. Warn riders behind you of hazards by calling out the hazard and pointing to it (pothole, gravel, storm drain, etc). Also call out and sudden slows, stops, and turns.

-When you are done with your pull, look back over your shoulder to make sure nobody is gonna be in your way when you peel off to the side. Peel off when it's clear. If necessary, you can give a "wave" or a flick with your elbow to signal the rider behind you to pass or take over.

-When you are at the back, call out "car back" when a car is approaching from behind. Also, when the next rider peels of the front and joins the back, tell him "last rider" or just "last" to let him know that he needs to get on your wheel.

-The back of the paceline requires the second most amount of work, after the front. It's easy for a newb to fall off the back if he's not on the ball. Stick close to the guy in front of you and stay on point.

-The back of the paceline requires the second most amount of work, after the front. It's easy for a newb to fall off the back if he's not on the ball. Stick close to the guy in front of you and stay on point.

I thought second wheel was the next hardest, and so forth and so on, until about tenth/twelfth wheel, after which it was pretty much consistent.

I thought second wheel was the next hardest, and so forth and so on, until about tenth/twelfth wheel, after which it was pretty much consistent.

You are right that there is a decrease in drag with each successive rider from the front, but the last rider has it worse than even the second rider because a) he is the only rider of the line subject to the backdraw turbulence that tends to "suck" the rider off the back (this is an oversimplification of the aerodynamic forces at work)...he essentially inherits the disrupted airflow/wake eddies of the entire paceline, and b) because he feels slinky effect around corners the most and generally has to work the hardest to reel himself back in to the rest of the group during any slinkying.

3) It is not the bike, it is the legs.

4) It is not the legs, it is the lungs.


The proceeding statement is true: the preceeding statement was false.

because it can get caught in your spokes

Because it has been known to get stuck in your spokes. i love the freedom cycling naked can give

I beg to differ. Shorts quality DOES matter, and a lot. Sadly, quality is proportionate to cost. Cheap shorts with funky seams can absolutely lead to misery.

And at least for women, "seats with the hole in them" dominate the lion's share of the serious recreational roadie market and with good reason... a little relief for soft tissue. Next time you are with an experienced group of women riders, count the number of Terry saddles... I'm just saying...

right on girlfriend!!

I'm supprised MB1 hasen't said this yet. COMMUTE!!!. This does not have to be to work, or atleast not at first. You just need to use your bike for transportation as well as for fun at least a couple of times per week. Ride to work, visit friends, run errands or visit your LBS (Locan Bike Shop). It teaches you to ride in all conditions and to be much more aware of your surroundings, both on and off the bike. It also makes you a much better driver.

1. Get a good floor pump
2. Inflate your tires to the right pressure before each ride (or learn how to repair pinch flats real well)
3. Get a saddle bag for the necessities
4. Shirts with pockets are great for phones, energy bars, keys, etc.
5. Better to overdress and remove clothes
6. A hat or headband will keep your ears warm on cold days
7. Ditto for shoe covers and your toes
8. Pretend you are scraping something off the sole of your shoe on the up stroke
9. Steady beats surging
10. Use your legs as shocks on bumpy roads

Cycling shorts are like swim trunks---designed to be all inclusive and self-sufficient. They have a nice chamois (that strange looking pad covering your nether regions that makes you look like your shorts are full of sh*t when you walk around in public wearing them) that is meant to cushion, ventilate, and directly comfort those nether regions, possibly aided by a nice skin lubricant like Body Glide or Chamois Creme (various brands). Wearing underwear inside your shorts separates you from the chamois negating its function, and allows for the additonal to bunch up in tight spots and actually cause mroe saddle sores or blisters. Cotton underwear in particular is a problem as it holds moisture and causes chafing and possible jock itch to set in. Bike shorts are designed to both comfort and breath simultaneously, and wearing underwear underneath them blocks both effects. Don't worry, you will get used to the feeling after only a few rides and will quickly figure out that we are right and why.

What a great thread -- thanks!

My biggest thing (and I'm certainly still a newbie) is to embrace riding consistently, even if it's only a short ride. I'm now riding every day conditions permit. When I'm riding regularly, I want to ride more. When I get out of the habit, getting back in is so much harder.

And, I learned some stuff...

1) No more underwear beneath my cycling shorts. Finally, I get it!!!! Going to buy a second pair today.

2) I found a way to control new bike lust and carbon-fiber-itis; can't buy a new one until the one-year anniversary of my Giant OCR3.

3) Need to stash a 20 in the seat bag.

1. replace your bar tape every season
2. clean your break pads (the slots and grooves add traction)
3. learn to full rotation pedal - not just on the downstroke
4. push down on your front wheel when making sharp, fast turns - keeps wheel on ground if there are bumps
5. stay off the bike trails - too many kids, lids, and space cadets on roller blades
6. never listen to music while riding
7. always wear a helmet - and wear it correctly
8. learn how to fall - practice in the grass
9. learn how to pedal through turns
10. respect your bike - it puts up with a ton of crap from you

1.) Neodymium Magnets - If your cycle computer occasionally skips a beat (particularly at higher speeds), and you've already adjusted it as well as you can, you can give the sensor a boost by popping a neodymium magnet onto the wheel magnet. The total magnetic strength is the old + the new magnets. You don't need to glue it or anything - the neodymium magnets are strong enough that they're highly unlikely to fall off. I've had the same one for 1500 miles so far.

2.) Latex Gloves - when working on your bike, it's a lot easier to put on a pair of latex gloves than it is to scrape the grease and road grime out of your fingerprints.

2.) Latex Gloves - when working on your bike, it's a lot easier to put on a pair of latex gloves than it is to scrape the grease and road grime out of your fingerprints.
Put a little baby powder in the gloves - makes taking them off a lot quicker/easier. If you get grease on your hands, use automotive hand cleaner, which works much better than soap (needless to say, it will be much cheaper than any bike-specific product designed to do the same thing).

Only one-

You are going to fall, don't be afraid of it.

1) buy clipless pedals
2) buy bib shorts
3) always wear a base layer
4) don't attack early
5) join a team so you don't have to pay full price for clothes
6) climb in the saddle
7) thoroughly clean the chain before installation
8) always have cash
9) panic makes you crash - learn to be calm when a crash happens in front of you
10) say hello to everyone - bikes, runners, walkers, even cars included

4) If you are in a ride group and have problems with your bike, look for someone with hair on their legs to help you. The individual will either be a Fred or a former MTB'er, but you'll have a much higher percentage chance of them helping you. Former MTB'ers are the best since they tend to still carry 10 lbs of tools around for the first 6 months of road riding.



What is a Fred? (MTB'er I figured out)

1) You will be passed by people far better than you
2) You can try to catch them.
3) You are not allowed to sprint past them 30 feet from the end of your ride as they continue on. Slow down, hang off their wheel for 10-20 seconds, and let them continue.
4) If you want to pass someone, they may wake up and/or wheel suck and pass you back.
5) Do not sprint in the MUT lane. There are dogs on flexi leashes and joggers. Share the road.
6) When approaching double parked cars, decrease your speed, stop if you have to, and let all the traffic go by till you have a clear lane. It is slower, but a hell of a lot safer.
7) Wear as much reflective gear as possible at night. Reflective tape is a gift from God.
8) Never count on a car slowing down for you.
9) Vans are twice as dangerous as anything out there.
10) Always have the following: Gloves, helmet, and bar plugs.

[QUOTE=M00nshine2004]Sorry if this has been answered but why should one not wear underwear under cycle shorts?

Even more than was already mentioned, the edge of the underwear tends to offer friction and abrasion just outside your sitbones when you sit up on a saddle that is not a small, lightweight road saddle. It's okay for 3 hours or so, but then you begin to chafe. This is without bike shorts over.

Wear bike shorts only without any thing under. I do ocassionally wear bike shorts under long shorts when riding with non-spandex people. It seems to make them uncomfortable, although the women don't seem to mind so much.


3. If you encounter a cyclist on a recumbent bicycle, in either direction: Spurn him. Do not aknowledge, and do not return aknowledgment if offered. Recumbent cycles are nothing more than a desperate plea for attention, and by acknowledging him, you become an enabler. Do not enable silliness, even if it works. Above all, do not express appreciation/admiration/interest in the recumbent cycle---even if you want one desperately.

They may want attention, but they're also usually quite friendly. Not too big a fan of how they often won't shut up about their bikes and how they're so comfortable and superior.

Gee, like sitting on your most delicate region on a hard, tiny perch with a 4" drop to your drop bars wouldn't be comfortable for hours at a time.

Although I love riding with my bars low, I feel an urgent need to urinate when they drop below 3". Got tired of cleaning the sticky, smelly stuff off of my BB and chainstays when I rode that way.

Although it's a good skill to be able to get your waterbottle without looking, don't blindly flail your hands around down there either. My first time out riding, I tried getting my bottle without looking and felt something hit my finger tips. I looked down and realized that what I had felt was my fingers glacing off the spokes of my spinning front wheel. It still scares me to think about what could have happened if my fingers got stuck in them.

C'mon let's hear your best 10 tips for the beginning road rider. If you want to get creative, how about best 10 tips for the experienced mtb'er -beginning road rider.

You know that feeling when you finally figure something out about riding and you say "hmm... would have been nice if someone told me that... last year". Well here's your chance to tell someone else.

No wisecracks please. I think collectively we all have some pretty useful insight to share.

francois

1. BUY A GOOD SEAT! Pay attention to numbness in your favorite friend down there. Noone seems to tell new riders, but a good seat solves many problems. My first bike had a crappy seat (for me) and I had to note my "issue" before any more experienced rider even told me it could be an issue! SEAT!!!!!!!

2. Concentrate on volume over distance when you start. Don't worry about how far you go, plans your trip by long and short rides each week by TIME (one long and two short to start).

3. Don't get overly worried about what bike you have, buy the low end in a good brand (i.e. Lemond Etape) and consider a geometry that is less agressive (i.e. Lemond).

4. Get a triple crank! Don't worry that your racing buddy has double, get the triple and survive the hills the first summer.

1) Assos Chamois Creme--cured me of saddle sores--best stuff ever.
2) Bib shorts--much more comfy around the mid-section than standard shorts
3) People find different saddles comfortable--for me (not a woman), the Terry cutout is a godsend. No more numbness for me.

Didn't see it mentioned in the previous posts, so I'll just throw it in here:

When oiling your chain after cleaning it, oil it one link at a time, on the BOTTOM row of chain. What I mean by bottom is, if the bike is standing upright normally (seat on top), oil the length of chain that is running from the rear derailleur jockey wheel to the underside of the front chainring. You do this because if you lube the chain on the top run, the oil on the links will drip and run down your chainring and cogs, getting them oily.

When I started out, I mistakenly oiled my chain, and then lightly oiled my chainrings and cogs as well, figuring they needed it to prevent wear. The oil on the chain's rollers is enough to prevent wear, the bit of oil I was dripping on the chainrings/cogs was just attracting dirt and crud. I still sometimes get a bit of oil on the chainrings/cogs, but I wipe it around and off of them. This leaves a very thin film on them, which helps prevent corrosion from moisture, but doesn't really attract dirt.

On my saddle wedge bag I have a plastic luggage tag with my name, phone #, address, and two emergency phone #'s, and the words not allergic to anything typed on a luggage tag in case I get in an accident an I am incoherent.

#1 - Inflate your tires before EVERY ride.

#2 - Carbs are good... that includes beer.

wouldnt that better read:

beer is good, it includes carbs?

when you come off the front of a paceline dont slow down so much that the sucker behind you needs to grab a brake - do this every time around and people will not want to ride near you any more

1. Drink water before you leave.

2. Take water with you.

3. Don't underestimate your need for water and food on the road. I need about a liter of water and a snack every hour.

4. Keep your tires pumped up. I don't do this every ride...but I do ride every day, just about. And I pump up the tires every other day or so. I always feel sorry for the sad people who are riding on low tires, working twice as hard.

5. At least once a week, focus on technique, not miles. Or afew minutes, ride with only one leg, get your spin smooth. It won't take long for that to really make a difference in your rides.

6. Once every week or two, go on an adventure ride--somewhere you haven't been. Take some money, stop in a deli...make it a one day cycling vacation. Have fun.

7. Ride with nice people, or ride alone.

8. Get a speedometer/odometer. It's lots of fun to see that you are getting faster, going farther...what? Type A? ME?

9. Ride lots.

10. There don't have to be ten rules.

PW

I've been riding seriously for a decade, worked in a LBS for 5 years, etc., but I still picked up some good tips from this thread. I wanted to pass along 2 tips of mine.

Ride on the road like you are invisible.

What that means is: don't expect anyone in a vehicle to see you. You may feel entitled to some courteous behavior out there, but the loser in the SUV with blackened windows talking on the cell may not even slow down as they run over you and your bike.

Or run you off the road.

Or run a stop sign or stop light.

The consequences of vehicle/cyclist collisions FAR outweigh the benefits of not slowing down or stopping completely for a stop sign.

Also, it's a good idea to learn to ride rollers. They help immensely with riding a straight line smoothly, which is very important on roads with small shoulders.

Everyone else summed up most things I know about cycling.

Have fun and ride often.

:thumbsup:

Don't get a roof rack especially if you have a SUV. If you do get one don't forget about your bike and watch of for low clearances(parking garages, fast food locations, etc.). Sounds dumb but I have seen a couple of bike frames destroyed this way.

1. If debating between two component parts, always err on the side of comfort over lightweight/speed;
2. When cutting costs to fit a budget, do not skimp on the saddle;
3. If the Brooks saddle is too hard and you don't have the patience, try a Selle Anatomica saddle - same leather suspension concept, but already broken in;
4. Because a comfortable bike makes you go faster longer, spend more money on fit than frame material or component choices;
5. Just because something is lighter does not mean it's better;
6. Before deciding that a saddle is uncomfortable, ride on it for at least 50 miles;
7. For your first bike, it doesn't matter if it's aluminum, steel or carbon - really, it doesn't matter, but save up for a custom bike next;
8. Ditch the shorts, get a bib;
9. Don't feel defensive if you want to upgrade your bike - it's a hobby, and upgrading is part of the fun. However, don't expect to go faster just because you upgraded. Ultimately, paying more for expensive upgrades tend to be more aesthetic than functional. ie/ Is the guy on the Record group really going faster than the guy on the Dura Ace?
10. Don't be ashamed of making your bike beautiful! Make this bike something you can be proud of, and make it "bling" to your heart's content.

I have paid to be professionally fit. I also have fit myself by trial and error. my conclusion is that, within a couple mm (cm?) here or there, you can get used to almost anything.

I haven't been cycling long enough for 10 tips, but I did learn this: clip in while pedaling naturally, if you try and push down you can slip and hurt your gender-specifics.

I have some although not 10, even being relatively new:

1. Every single child you see is just waiting to spring out in front of you somehow and get killed. And their parents, who are right there, don't really care that their kid is going to jump out into a road.
2. Same for every dog, squirrel, and random other rodent.
3. Watch out for the casual cyclist who is getting started from a stop, they will typically make an S-shape on the road going to the side as they get started and swerve into your path because they didn't watch Sheldon Brown's video.
4. Kids on BMX-style bikes will make U-turns whenever it is most likely to get you or them killed (same as #1)
5. If you are buying a bike from an LBS, have them put an adjustable stem on there for the first couple of weeks or so. You can start out upright and slowly lower it as you gain the proper flexibility and musculature. Then have them give you the permanent, correct stem that you paid for.
6. Join a local bike club, not for free stuff, but to meet people who know more than you. Don't ask for the "bro" deal.

When going on a vacation and the bikes are on the vehice be sure to make a list of things not to forget

Helmet
Shoes
Gloves
Ect....

I have a list of all my biking needs equipment that get's laid out. Then it all goes into one bag. That way I know where it all is once I get to where I'm going, and I know it's all in one spot.

I keep lists.

I have on my computer all the things I need to take on vacation, another list everything I need for a business trip, another list for an overnight trip.

I also have several bags with equipment for different sports.

I keep all biking clothes either in one draw, winter and summer gear, or in one spot of the bedroom floor. I keep my biking sunglasses and bike gloves in my helmet so I don't forget them with a ride map/cue sheet if I need one. I keep 1 1/2 frozen bottles of water in the freezer with an energy bar separating them so I don't forget that.

I keep my ride log on a shelf next to the bike so I don't forget to log it when I return with a roll of paper towels to wipe down my chain after each ride and a bottle of chain lube on the shelf next to my bike log.

Nothing lets me forget anything.

Don't get a roof rack especially if you have a SUV. If you do get one don't forget about your bike and watch of for low clearances(parking garages, fast food locations, etc.). Sounds dumb but I have seen a couple of bike frames destroyed this way.

If you do use a roof rack, put something like a garbage can or step stool in the way in your garage so when you get home and you're mentally not there because of the ride, you have a reminder that your bike is on top of your car.

I am new so I'm lacking the insight of some of the veterans but my advice is prudent.

1. If you're new to road cycling and your riding a used bike, a bike bought from an internet site or from a less than profession bike shop-- MAKE SURE YOUR RIDE IS SET UP FOR YOU! For $85, costly but worth it, I went to my LBS who carries SPECIALIZED and the owner is a BODY GEOMETRY FIT TECHNICIAN, and got my old bike professionally fitted. HUGE adjustments were made and my power and endurance, comfort and ultimate happiness has grown exponentially. If you don't want to drop the dough on the fit, search on the internet for how to set up your bike to your body. Start with the seat then worry about the handlebars.

2. Pedal with a faster cadence if you want to last longer... Don't pedal so fast that your wild and out of control but quicker is better than slower. When pedaling with a slow cadence you have to push harder with your legs using much more muscle power than necessary. Lactic acid will build up and you will wear out faster and get much more sore. Pedaling faster will not wear out your muscles as badly and will activate your cardio system more- ultimately increasing your stamina.

I'm hope I'm not the new jackass with a "great idea" not worth accepting. I'm just speaking from experience. Well, actually inexperience. Which may(?) qualify my opinion in certain regards.

Truly fantastic thread! Thanks everyone.

...but I can't believe there were actually people out there wearing underwear under their cycle shorts!!

Slop on the sun screen. Skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the US. I use SPF 50

Carry some Benadryl. You never know when you might get some bee venom that doesn't agree with you or if you know your allergic to bee stings carry an EpiPen. I carry both. If you get stung and you start getting hives and itchy palms then it is time to take action.

If stinger is still in you scrape it off with something like a credit card. I unscrew my bottle cap and use the cap edge.

When flying downhill zip your shirt up all the way (or totally unzip). A bee is more likely to sting you when getting caught in your shirt. Yes, I get stung a lot!

Bunny hopping is a wonderful talent to know.

Don't be afraid to stop and clean up broken glass. It can save another rider a flat or even yourself the next time you pass the same area. I'll even stop and remove a car hazard (like a huge boulder that just rolled off the hill). Karma is a good thing to have if your a road cyclist.

When a bus or tractor trailer is trying to get by you on tight twisty corners then slow to a crawl or stop, they can't pass you safely if your both going the same speed (it is a difficult task for them as they need to stay in their lane to avoid any on coming traffic).

For you country riders;
Know where the deer crossings are (especially on the downhills) cause you don't want to hit a deer at 30 mph or plus.:cryin:
Never try to out run a mountain lion because they'll think your prey.:eek:

Never try to out run a mountain lion because they'll think your prey.:eek:
Or just go faster than the other guy:thumbsup:

1. When checking behind for traffic look over your RIGHT shoulder, you need to turn your head less that way.

2. Store your water bottles in the fridge after cleaning them.

3. When checking to see if a car is moving, look at the WHEELS.

4. Never assume someone sees you unless you make EYE CONTACT.

5. Never keep anything sharp such as keys, tools, tire levers, ot tubes (with sharp stems) in your jersey pockets.

6. When climbing a hill, save something for the top.

7. Always warm up on group rides. Let the other guys kill themselves at the front for the first 20 minutes, and you'll be stronger and faster at the end of the ride.

8. Never wear bib short straps outside your jersey.

9. Don't wear sunglasses on cloudy days or at night.

10. Don't wear your helmet like a yarmulke.

http://roadbikerider.com/ has a free download of 29 tips from the pros.....and also a list of tips from other riders.

I don't know if this was mentioned in the previous replies, but make a habit of not riding on top of the hoods when making a fast descent...it doesn't take much of a small pothole (rock, etc.) to bounce your hands off of the hoods..
http://www.parktool.com/ is also a good site for learning some at-home maintenance.

Do you want to ride more mileage? If you want to become a better rider you need to ride more.

One of doing this is to if you ride club rides, ride to the ride. I ride to almost all my club rides. I've ridden to some rides that are 18 miles away. This puts me at 36 miles plus the ride distance. If you can ride to a club ride that's only 5-7 miles away, then that's wonderful. When the ride is further away and I don't think I can ride there and back AND do the entire club ride, I do part of the club ride. This of course is easier if you know the area. Talk to the ride leader ahead of time or before the ride and tell them that you aren't going to do the whole ride with them. I've done this on rides that are 40-60 miles, I ride 10-20 miles with them and then turn around and ride home again. So I'm putting on 20-40 miles plus the commuting distance. And now since I can ride 60-80 miles rather easy, I usually ride all or most of the ride with them, especially if the ride is closer than 18 miles away. I have several rides that I ride to regularly, 4 miles, 5, 6, 7, 10, 12, 18 miles away. This has helped me to become a much better rider this year. Last year my longest ride was 40 miles and I did that only twice in July, August I did do 73 miles. Most of my rides were 30 miles or less with a few 35 miles. This year I ride 40-60 miles 4-6 days a week and I credit that mileage to riding to the rides.

I got this idea from some other people that ride to the rides. This year there were a few others that started riding to the ride because of my doing it and my inspiration.

And if the ride is during the week and I know it's going to get dark on the way home, I talk to people, or talk to the ride leader, and see who is going in my direction with their car and I get a ride back with them. It usually works out. If not, I have a blinking red light for my saddle bag. Some people drop me off just a few blocks from my house and I ride the rest of the way home only because I want to make it easier for them.

Group rides can be your best friend or your worst nightmare. They can make you stronger if you have a hard time getting motivated on solo rides, and they can get you used to riding in close quarters, but if you do the "parking lot race" group ride every time you go out, you'll get overtrained. Mix in some solo rides or some less-intense group rides to take a break.

Like Friel says- they have their place, but use them sparingly.

oops- double post

Having worked in an LBS (as well as a woodworking supply store) I know that there is such a thing as good service, and bad service. And while I don't want to make excuses for bad service, workplaces all have their stresses, and I feel compelled to point out the following things:

-Just because you've just read everything in these forums, doesn't mean you're more knowledgeable than the guy behind the counter, or standing at the bike stand. These guys get paid... well, almost enough... for their services, and they deal with seriously fussy people all day long. And for many people, it's enough to deal with their job at work, they don't come home and geek out. Some of them do, and it's great, but not all of them. The forums, on the other hand, are populated with everyone from 16 year old punks to middle aged mechanical engineers, and there's a lot of information here. It's a highly specialized information resource, populated with people who are addicted to information. But that doesn't make the guy who fixes flats and brakes all day long is an ignorant idiot. Just because you have some miraculous bit of hyper-specialized information does NOT make you better or smarter than they are. It just means you've read something that they haven't.

-It's hard to explain to people who are on the other side of the counter sometimes, but the truth is that some of the most difficult customers are the ones who are really convinced that they know more than the LBS guys. There's nothing more dangerous than having a little information. Maybe you have a detail, or a piece of information that they don't, but other times you'll have a problem that is everyday for them, that they can handle with their eyes closed, that you've never seen or really had to think about.

I watched one bicycle owner rip a mechanic a new one because the bike wasn't working properly, and he was convinced that it was the shop's fault. Turns out he'd turned the barrel adjusters the wrong way on a ride, and when it didn't work, he kept turning them that wrong way, making things worse. A bicycle is a remarkably simple machine. And so is basic human error. There's nothing wrong with making a stupid mistake. There's a lot wrong with treating people like dirt over your own mistakes. If something isn't working, accept it, go in, and see if they can explain why. Don't go in with a bike in one hand, and blame in the other.


-The eye-contact thing works on the road, not in the store. Trust me, they saw you. On a busy Saturday afternoon in June, they're probably trying to avoid eye contact. If it's too busy, and you have a real question, come back when they have time. At that particular moment, they are probably already trying to service a high strung high spender, a wild eyed mother of 2, who are both there and need flat tires fixed, some random cranky guy who doesn't understand the two different sides of his bicycle pump nozzle, and 3 detailed phone calls.

And while it sounds really impersonal to say so, they already have steam coming out of their ears, and the last thing that they probably want is one more person to bother them.

I'll add the caveat that sometimes, it's bad service. But there's a difference between crazy busy, and jerk-off attitude. Bad attitudes are easy to spot. But so is crazy busy. Any other day, if it's not busy, they'll make eye contact, and be relaxed enough to give a really thoughtful answer to your questions.

Everyone has needs, and that's entirely understandable. All I'm trying to say is, if they're clearly in the middle of something, wait your turn. Wait until you see them looking around, and then get their attention. And try not to take it personally if you're one of a dozen people in their face at that particular moment, and they're trying to keep things moving.


-Once in a while, go in and buy an innertube, or a couple of power bars, or whatever. Generally, the shops are full of nice people, with good attitudes, but they still have a bottom line. But it's still a business relationship. Everyone knows the internet is cheaper for a lot of things. But Brick and Mortar stores run on money, and things like inner tubes are their bread and butter. Sure it costs a little more. But it's worth it to have a good LBS nearby. And it's definitely worth it to have a good relationship with them, and demonstrate your willingness to make sure that they're making money. If you really want to stand out, buy your stuff during the week, and strike up a conversation about something.

-Try not to come in at 5 minutes to close with a seriously involved problem. It happens, people are human, "Hey, I think we can just make it..." and traffic can slow people down. And I know, and I'm very well aware, that if the customer can get through the door, they have a right to service. The customer is always right. But chances are it's already been a long day for them, and they'd really rather be on their way home... or out riding. This falls partly under the guideline of being prepared the day before a ride. If you have serious shifting issues, and a race the next day, it's really not cool to walk in as they're ready to go home, and dump a pile of work on them with a right now deadline. If they're inordinately nice people, they might help you. But they'll also remember you.

-I don't want to make this a "You stupid f!cking customers!" rant. And I think if there's an undercurrent to all of this, it's this simple fact: You're here, online, for recreational purposes. They're at work because they have bills to pay, and I can promise you that inevitably, there are going to be difficult customers for them to deal with that day. The above stuff is a pile of some of my own baggage, and my personal rants. Try not to take any of them as personal insults... take them as an insight into the life of a retail clerk. We love our regular customers that understand that we have a job, and we have lives. And many of us love to hang out and talk shop, discuss bike issues, and be friendly... when we don't have a gang of savages hounding us around the store with flat tires and brain damage. Days like that, the closest thing we get to a break is to shoot a greased rubber band at one of the other mechanics when they're not looking.


-If you want to get in their good graces... Towards the end of the day, if you're a guy, bring in a 6 pack of good beer. If you're a girl, beer works, and so do cookies. Trust me, they'll appreciate it.

If you want to have a friend at an LBS, (and if you're a newbie, trust me, you want a friend at an LBS) then be a friend. You wouldn't bother your best friend at his job when it's busy, try not to do the same to these poor guys. Stop by on Thursday afternoon, when there's no one else in the store, with a 6 pack of beer, explain to them that you're having a hard time with your bike, and that clearly these bottles are part of the problem. Beer is a complicated problem, requiring time, patience, and thorough consideration, and I'm sure they'll be willing to think it through, and talk shop with you.

the day my clients bring me cookies and beer is the day i will go back to shopping at my LBS :)

2. Store your water bottles in the fridge after cleaning them.
WTX? I've been trying to figure out why some bottles have a stinky chemical smell after I clean them. Does the cool temperature inhibit the release of nasty petro-toxins? There's all this talk about evil water bottles and I'm not sure what to do. I'm definitely not going back to the aluminum Sigg bottles I used 30 years ago!

Yeah, but where's the advice for the LBS clerk? Tell me you're busy and stressed (even if the shop is empty) and I'll understand. Tell me that you can't afford the time to dick around with my stupid problem and I'll understand. Tell me that you're just sick of customers and I'll understand. But, when I come in ready to plunk down $2k for a bike, don't just avoid eye contact, because I don't understand.

The guys at my shop are awesome, and I hold them in high esteem. Like a good NCO in the Army, they squared me, the "newbie" away. They were courteous and fun. I went in there the first time with a teachable attitude and have found every bike experience since then enjoyable. These guys even helped me name my bike! To me they're bike gods. They walk on water, and will keep me squared away! I can ask them the most lame-brained question, and they're patient, yet eager to educate me in the ways of the cycle. I want you to know that there are customers out there that do appreciate the expertise at the LBS. I know a lot of stuff about a lot of things, but bikes aren't one of them. I depend on my LBS. I'm taking them an f in' keg! Thanks for the suggestion!

I don't have 10, but...

5) If you are biking solely for the purpose of losing weight, you need a change of attitude. You may actually gain weight for the first few months of riding as muscle builds on your body. My best advice is to not focus on your weight at all, instead focusing on having a good time riding. Exercise is not fun, but riding is. If you truly get the bug, you'll never have to worry about weight again anyway.


I don't have much to input here, since I'm waiting for my bike to come in (so I don't have one right now), but I will comment on this:

The numbers on the scale aren't the most important thing. I know this from experience, since I lost about 64 lbs in a period of 2 months.

Before going crazy on an exercise activity, change your eating habits. Stop eating all the fast food. Stop drinking the soda/pop/coke (or whatever you may call it in your area). Cut down/out all the sweets, etc. Am I saying never have these things? No, that's your own personal choice to make, but control the habits, don't let them control you.

DO NOT try to do everything at once or you'll end up overwhelming yourself and go right back to the bad habits you were trying to break. If you DO crave fast food, have a small fries or something or you'll end up binging on it later. Eventually you'll ween yourself off of it. You'd not believe how many people at my work keep saying they quit this or that "cold turkey" and I see them back on it about 2 weeks later.

If you are losing weight that fast make SURE to keep in touch with your doctor (for me it was fine and healthy, but it's abnormal for most). In any case the scale will go up and down and that's fine, because muscle weighs more than fat. The importance of the scale is to monitor fluctuations and make sure that you don't start going one way or the other too rapidly. If the weight goes way down fast, you may simply be dehydrated. Drink lots of water. Make SURE to weigh yourself at the same time every day (such as just after you woke up in the morning). If you don't then the numbers will be ALL out of whack, because you'll catch yourself after having just eaten.

The point I'm trying to make here is that if you are trying to get in shape you will SEE it. My body weight is increasing overall now (since I'm lifting weights and doing cardio, etc), however my fat content is lowering. When you're a guy and the guys start hitting on you or vice versa (whether you are straight or not), you know it's working.