I'd like to learn how to change cassettes on my race wheels. A buddy of mine told me what tools I needed but now I forget.

I use Shimano wheels and shimano 9-speed cassettes. Could someone pls suggest inexpensive tools I could get to be able to change cassettes on my own?

I think I need a chain whip and casette tool(?). Pls advise. I imagine that it's not too hard to do this, and that I could just teach myself, just need the proper tools.

Thx.

Chain whip (about $15, keeps the cassette from spinning while you loosen the lockring)), cassette lockring tool (about $5, fits on a socket wrench). A torque wrench is a good thing to have. Cheap ones under $20, expensive ones $50+. And some grease. Takes less than 5 minutes to swap cassettes.

Read how to do anything on your bike at: http://www.parktool.com/repair/bikemap.asp

You need a chain whip and cassette lockring tool. Performance has them:

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?sku=12775

You will also need a crescent wrench. Alternatively, you could probably make a make-shift chain whip tool with an old chain.

You can use the Park Tool website (www.parktool.com) for instructions in their "repair help" section as well: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48

Thank you both for your speedy replies. That ParkTool site is cool and very informative. Thx 4 the link. guess I can teach myself more than I thought...

You need a chain whip and cassette lockring tool. Performance has them:

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?sku=12775

You will also need a crescent wrench. Alternatively, you could probably make a make-shift chain whip tool with an old chain.

You can use the Park Tool website (www.parktool.com) for instructions in their "repair help" section as well: http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48

Park tools website has an excellent review. Also Sheldonbrown.com. But a great book worth it's weight in gold is Zinn and the Art of Road bike Maintenance.

To remove a rear cassette, you need a lockring remover (around $10)(with 12 splines for a Shimano cassette, and a chain whip (around $12) (http://www.parktool.com/products/category.asp?cat=4), and some elbow grease.

Here's how I do it. I take the rear wheel off and put the lockring removal tool into place with the splines fitting into the cassette lockring (which has grooves for the splined tool). I then feed the quick release skewer through the non-drive side (which means the QR lever will remain on the non-drive side), then thru the hub which has the cassette still on it, then through the attached lockring removal tool (which has a hole in the center), and then I screw on the QR nut to secure the LR removal tool (tight enough to hold the removal tool in place so you don't strip the splines, but not TOO tight).

I now turn the wheel drive side (cassette) down, put the lockring removal tool (not the cogs, just the LR tool) into a bench vise and tighten it (this holds it just as a crescent wrench would in the standard method). I now put the chain whip on the SECOND SMALLEST cog (NOT the first) and turn it COUNTERCLOCKWISE (when viewed from above) enough to loosen the 40 Newton-meter lock ring. (Do NOT hold the wheel when turning the chain whip)(too much loosening with the skewer in place and you'll also break the quick release skewer nut holding the lockring removal tool in place.)

While many hold the chain whip with one hand and put an adjustable crescent wrench over the lockring removal tool and turn it CCW to loosen, it is simply too easy for the LR removal tool to slip out and to strip these thin splines (found that out the hard way). With this method, the QR skewer holds the LR tool in place beautifully and a vise is much stronger than any hand.

I now take it out of the vise and remove the loosened lockring by hand. Make sure when removing the cogs you put a string or wire through them so you keep track of the order of parts, as well as inside/outside orientation. They are designed with one side to face out, the other in.

To replace, you don't need a chain whip since the rear hub doesn't turn clockwise, so it provides the resistance you need to tighten the lockring back to 40 N-M of torque.

This method is described in Barnett's Manual, but not in Zinn or elsewhere. For all repairs there is always a place you can find instructions.

Wow, that makes it sound way harder than it actually is.

0. Oops, guess I should add a step -- remove the skewer!
1. Put locknut thingy in place.
2. Slap chain whip on cog.
3. Put wrench on locknut, twist in opposite direction using chain whip for leverage.

I use a basic adjustable wrench, apparently it's called crescent wrench (as others have suggested). I don't know why you'd have to use a vice or anything specific.

Putting the cassette back on is even easier, no chain whip needed.

It's really not that hard -- although the guys in the bike shop tried to talk me out of buying the tools to change the cassette myself. :rolleyes: As if I have enough upper body strength to damage a set of wheels, guys. Seriously!

Wow, that makes it sound way harder than it actually is.

It's really not that hard -- although the guys in the bike shop tried to talk me out of buying the tools to change the cassette myself. :rolleyes: As if I have enough upper body strength to damage a set of wheels, guys. Seriously!

The problem is that holding the LR removal tool firmly in the cassette lockring is tricky and if not done properly, it can slip out and strip the lockring. My method takes me LESS time because I don't have to be so careful to press the LR removal tool in place since the skewer holds it. Never stripped one since I switched methods. Plus, even if it takes an extra minute, I change cassettes infrequently so time is not an issue.

(If you have money, the best way is to have different cassettes on different wheels and just swap wheels, but that can get costly.)

And you don't need any body strength to strip a lock washer. :rolleyes: I'm living proof of that.

The problem is that holding the LR removal tool firmly in the cassette lockring is tricky and if not done properly, it can slip out and strip the lockring. My method takes me LESS time because I don't have to be so careful to press the LR removal tool in place since the skewer holds it. Never stripped one since I switched methods. Plus, even if it takes an extra minute, I change cassettes infrequently so time is not an issue.

(If you have money, the best way is to have different cassettes on different wheels and just swap wheels, but that can get costly.)

And you don't need any body strength to strip a lock washer. :rolleyes: I'm living proof of that.

I've changed my cassettes dozens of times and I've never had any problems with the lockring tool slipping. It slides right into the cassette and stays there securely. All I can think is that maybe you didn't get the lockring tool in there all the way.
:confused:

Performance sells a lockring tool for $5 that has a skewer built in, so there are no worries about it slipping off.

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=12775

When you put the new cassette and lockring on, I'd recommend using a torque wrench. It's not absolutely essential, but given the stresses the lockring will be subject to, it's a good idea to have it tightened to the recommended torque.

You'll also need a henweigh.

You'll also need a henweigh.
What'd ya just learn it?

What'd ya just learn it?

Nah, been trying for 2 weeks to get someone to fall for it. No luck so far.....

Pedros makes a cog wrench that takes the place of a chain whip for 11 and 12t cogs. It's very easy to use. There's also a wrench that fits the lockring tool exactly. And there is a lockring remover that has a bayonette to fit inside the axle, like previously mentioned. It's pretty easy to change cassette nowadays. There's really no need for a torque wrench, once you get the feel of tightening a cassette lockring. You just have to do it to get some experience.