OK, I get all the ads from all the online retailers, and see lots of great prices on house brand stuff. Right now I am considering some upgrades on my older road bike. I am riding an old Raleigh 531 steely, old Shimano 105 group (6 speed). I would like to drop some weight and add some comfort, so I have been considering swapping the seatpost and bars to start. They are both some heavy steel right now. What is the opinion on going house brand components in these areas? How about Fork? The fork right now is the same steel as the frame, matches well, but could ride nicer.

Consider, Performance Bike (updated)
Carbon fork--$74.99
Carbon seatpost--$79.98
pro stem--$24.99
Carbon bars--$99.99
Carbon spacers--$4.98
Cane creek s2 headset--$49.99
total--334.92
Just as an example, I know ordering from Performance means waiting a few weeks to see it.

I don't race, don't ride 100s of miles. My jerseys don't usually match my socks, and my shoes are bright blue Addidas that don't match anything but were 75% off. I really prefer riding off road but can't afford the gas to the trails as much as I used to, so doing more road riding. My point being, fashion and riding like I am in the tour don't really matter to me. I also don't mind putting a little more into the bike over time rather than just buy a new bike. I like to have something I did and put together. As a teacher, these upgrades are really pushing the budget. They would probably have to happen over the next several months, maybe longer. After all, I only paid $100 for the bike! :)

Dumping $350 into a bike for which you paid $100 is questionable at best. First, you face a situation here where many things may not fit your old frame - the costs you list may just be the beginning of what you have to spend to make things work. Beyond that,you must realize that upgrades are seldom cost effective. There are two reasons for this. First is that you get a much better deal on things when purchased as a complete bike than when buying parts separately. Most bikes, if you priced out all the components and the frame, would cost about 30% more than the purchase price of the bike. There are all kinds of reasons for this, but that's the situation. Second is that bikes are typically sold as a "balanced package" where all of the components are at roughly the same quality level, and roughly match the quality level of the frame. Sometimes you do see these things out of balance, but not often.

So, when you seek to upgrade the bike, you get a little bit of "racing tires on a Geo Metro" phenomenon. While those racing tires will make the Geo perform a little better, when you consider the cost, it's not a good return on investment. It does not make sense for a bike that cost $100. You'd be far better off to sell your current bike, take the $100 (or so) plus the $350 you want to spend, and buy a 3-4 year old used bike for $450. It would be a much better performing machine than your current bike with a $350 new front end. Don't get confused by your desire to "to have something I did and put together." It's not cost effective in any way.

OK, I may have only paid $100, but it is not a $100 bike. In its time it was primo, and the frame still is. Consider this more of starting a frame up build rather than an upgrade and look at it that way. I got a good deal, and like I said, those upgrades can't happen all at once. We are talking, if I be serious, at least 6 months.

I also don't really care about cost effective at the end of it all. My commuter cost me over $600 when you add it all up. It cost me that over a large time period. To look at it, most people wouldn't give me a third of that. But it is what I wanted--exactly--and is therefore worth 3 times what I paid.

I love the frame, it is excellent quality and as good as any steel I see today. The components need some help. I ride it now, so it could stay as is and be just as good as it was back then. Or I can take advantage of what is available today and improve it a bit at a time.

I have been riding off road for a while. My bike started out as a Trek 4300. I got all the same advice you just gave about it. I ignored them all. I found a $300 fork with 2 hours ride time that a guy sold me for $50. I got the shop to give me a deal on a Deore derailler and cranks. Some new brake pads and tires, and unless I enter the Jeep King of the Mountain I saw on TV today it is just fine. I swapped bikes with a guy with a $2000 Specialized. He road all the same stuff. Sure, his bike is better, but mine does just fine and I like it. It is what I could get, how I could get it. And it is perfect for that.

Anyway, I guess you missed the point of the whole post, which was quality of the house brand components. It is like this. Take the handlebar, as one example. Lets say $100 is the budget there. Do I do a $100 house brand carbon, or a $100 Easton aluminum? I would prefer carbon for ride quality, as the roads around here go from marginal to stretches of completely torn up gravel basically. I can definitely feel the road more that I would if I live somewhere not so out in the middle of nowhere.

I am no expert on brand quality and since you are talking about ordering items you have never seen or tried, I would try to stick with brands that you have at least heard of as the quality is probably better and the warranty is most likely better. Like you said you want to upgrade a little at a time and not break the bank so if the name brand parts are a little more money then take a little more time on the upgrade.

good luck,
PHX

I Have Been Using A Performance Carbon Fork For About 4 Years On One Of My Road Bikes With No Problems. I Have Not Tried Any Of Thier Other Cabon Products.

OK, I get all the ads from all the online retailers, and see lots of great prices on house brand stuff. Right now I am considering some upgrades on my older road bike. I am riding an old Raleigh 531 steely, old Shimano 105 group (6 speed). I would like to drop some weight and add some comfort, so I have been considering swapping the seatpost and bars to start. They are both some heavy steel right now. What is the opinion on going house brand components in these areas? How about Fork? The fork right now is the same steel as the frame, matches well, but could ride nicer.

Consider, Performance Bike (updated)
Carbon fork--$74.99
Carbon seatpost--$79.98
pro stem--$24.99
Carbon bars--$99.99



If the bike is 105 6 speed and the frame is from a reputable manufacturer, I highly doubt that either the bars or seatpost are steel (I could certainly be wrong on this). Some of the aluminum components from that era did have considerable wall thickness and weighed more than today's components. Perhaps you should check them with a magnet?

If this bike was a medium level bike in its day (mid 1980s), it probably weighs in around or less than 24 lbs. With all of the changes that you list, you would decrease bike weight by 2 lbs without significantly increasing ride quality. A cheap carbon fork is very unlikely to improve the ride quality of that bike; contrarily, it will probably transfer more road shock and potentially be a bit more 'noodly' than the steel fork that is presently on the bike. And I can't imagine you would notice a difference in ride quality with a carbon seatpost on that particular frame.

I can see changing out components (such as bars) for ergonomic factors. Bar width and new anatomic designs can offer more comfort for some riders. I can't see adding carbon components to an older steel frame.

If you are decided on making purchases of specific components, the house-brand equipment should work fine.

Personally, if you are on a tight budget, I think you would be better off taking the $350 and spending it on tires, chains, and other components as they wear out. And if you want to make the ride a bit more smooth, use 25mm tires and deflate them by 5psi.

The bike is a Raleigh Grand Prix, Reynolds 531 steel. It weighs around 21 right now, at least it did before I swapped the seat for one about half the weight. The seatpost does appear to be aluminum now that i really look at it, but it is plenty thick and heavy. The handlebar is definitely steel. I can't see how a carbon fork and bar aren't going to ride softer than the steel/steel combo right now. I can see the handling point, that is something to think about.

The seatpost is more about weight than ride. Ride would be nice, but my butt is fine with my San Marco saddle I love. My hands are what hurt. When it gets rough, I can stand, but my hands still have to be on there.

Anyway, again, not really looking for opinions on what to change or what not, but on the quality of the components compared to equal price range (aluminum) name brand stuff. I wonder how many people actually read what a post asks before they answer.

Anyway, again, not really looking for opinions on what to change or what not, but on the quality of the components compared to equal price range (aluminum) name brand stuff. I wonder how many people actually read what a post asks before they answer.

Eh?

If you are decided on making purchases of specific components, the house-brand equipment should work fine.

In your original post you stated an interest in lowering bicycle weight and improving ride quality. Several people, myself included, have commented that if you upgrade your componentry in the manner you have suggested, you will spend a considerable amount of money and achieve neither of your goals.

I am no expert on brand quality and since you are talking about ordering items you have never seen or tried, I would try to stick with brands that you have at least heard of as the quality is probably better and the warranty is most likely better. Like you said you want to upgrade a little at a time and not break the bank so if the name brand parts are a little more money then take a little more time on the upgrade.

good luck,
PHX

By and large the name brand and house brand parts are made in the same factories with the only substantive difference being the label applied to the part.

Prices are lower for house brand and the warranty will likely be just as good.

That said, I wouldn't be buying carbon handlebars or stems.

Eh?
I'm not trying to be a jerk, but look at the original post. First, the question was directed toward house-brand components and how they compare to name brand, not how they would serve on my bike. I understand asking a question on here is asking for elitist bottomless pocket responses, but I tried to avoid that with the disclaimer. Second, I say people don't read as I said what type of bike it was in the first post and two posters responded as if they didn't know. It was written right there. They also responded as if I had a pile of cash sitting here ready to spend (or ready to add to some other pile of cash), which I also don't have. I also said I love the frame, which also kind of sets off the whole "new bike" idea. I know what I am getting into here. I know one component won't make my bike a comfort bike. I believe the combination of several components will make some improvement.


In your original post you stated an interest in lowering bicycle weight and improving ride quality. Several people, myself included, have commented that if you upgrade your componentry in the manner you have suggested, you will spend a considerable amount of money and achieve neither of your goals.
Actually, there is no way I won't drop a few pounds here if I were able to do it all. I also believe, talking to the bike shop that knows my bike and my style, that the ride quality will improve somewhat.

Consider this. If I had posted in the general forum saying I just got this new steel custom lugged frame with 531 tubing, y'all wuld be responding "sweet, nice new ride, that thing will last you forever." and then we could have this same talk with different, probably more positive, responses. I enjoyed the few responses here. I wish the poster who said he wouldn't use carbon bars would have elaborated and given alternatives as that is more the direction I was heading with this.

I appreciate all the responses, I don't want to sound completely ungrateful. I just get frustrated when I read something like "if the frame is from a reputable manufacturer" when the manufacturer is in the first post.

If weight is the major concern, I would recommend looking for aluminum parts. I just got back to cycling about 3 months ago after an eight year hiatus and I was checking parts to upgrade my "old" 531 bike as well. But comparing the weight of low end Carbon parts with the weight of alu parts in the same price range can be a eye opener.

Petzi-baer

As previously mentioned, house brand parts are mostly the same as name brand. So that answers your primary question.

I am also riding an old steel frame and looked at many of the same upgrades you are considering. I found a common belief that carbon and steel ride very similarly, and that the weight savings would be minimal. I ended up replacing my seat post and stem with nice aluminum pieces that dropped a little weight, but more importantly, fixed my riding position and drastically improved comfort.

When looking to replace steel components with carbon, assume there will be no change in feel, and decide if the weight savings (likely minimal) is worth the price. If you are just an upgrade junky, have at it and have fun! I'm a big fan of cheaper house brand parts.

I'm not trying to be a jerk, but look at the original post. First, the question was directed toward house-brand components and how they compare to name brand, not how they would serve on my bike. I understand asking a question on here is asking for elitist bottomless pocket responses, but I tried to avoid that with the disclaimer. Second, I say people don't read as I said what type of bike it was in the first post and two posters responded as if they didn't know. It was written right there.

I appreciate all the responses, I don't want to sound completely ungrateful. I just get frustrated when I read something like "if the frame is from a reputable manufacturer" when the manufacturer is in the first post.

In the first post, you mention the bike is Reynolds 531 tubing. Only several posts later (after the responses you complain about) do you mention that it is a Raleigh Grand Prix. The tubing manufacturer does not make the frame nor does it spec the components on the bike. Some manufacturers spec better or worse components, and have better build quality. After you mention the bike model, there were no more questions in that vein.


I believe the combination of several components will make some improvement.

Actually, there is no way I won't drop a few pounds here if I were able to do it all. I also believe, talking to the bike shop that knows my bike and my style, that the ride quality will improve somewhat.


Yes, as I stated before, you will drop up to two pounds by altering components.

However, the carbon fork you suggest 'won't' offer a more forgiving ride than the old steel fork on your bike. The carbon seatpost 'won't' make a noticeable difference in vibration on that frame, especially if the bike still has the standard box-rims with 3-cross lacing.

If you are on a budget, it simply makes no sense to buy carbon parts to try to improve ride quality on an older steel frame with this geometry.

Buy the carbon bits if you like the look.


and I'll echo what others have alluded to:

At that price point they won't weigh less than similarly priced aluminum parts. Nor will they affect your ride quality.

for instance: for half the price of the Performance carbon seatpost you could buy the American Classic aluminum post which is only 19 grams heavier. That's 0.6 ounces for the metric disabled (like me).

In the first post, you mention the bike is Reynolds 531 tubing. Only several posts later (after the responses you complain about) do you mention that it is a Raleigh Grand Prix.
First post:
"I am riding an old Raleigh 531 steely, old Shimano 105 group (6 speed)."

So, Grand Prix (model) came later, Raleigh (manufacturer) right off the bat.

Thanks for the other responses.

First post:
"I am riding an old Raleigh 531 steely, old Shimano 105 group (6 speed)."

So, Grand Prix (model) came later, Raleigh (manufacturer) right off the bat.

Thanks for the other responses.

I must have misread "Raleigh" as "Reynolds". I am obviously having character recognition problems. My apologies.

After rereading my posts, I'm also not meaning to give you as hard of a time as it sounds.

My favorite ride is a mid-1980's double-butted Columbus lugged steel frame. The old 105 and Ultegra componentry was relatively high quality - items such as brakes actually weigh less than more recent double-pivots of the same level group. As such, it is actually relatively expensive to upgrade a bike such as this - and it is also difficult to improve ride quality. One of the most noticeable upgrades would be wheels (it would be easy to lose over a pound). However, this gets expensive, since you also need to upgrade cassettes (or to a cassette). Changing cassettes, you would then need to run the shifters in friction mode (which some people don't like as much as detent shifting).

If you upgrade the fork, etc., remember that you will also need to change out the headset to threadless and find a 1" steerer tube fork.

I ride a mid 80's vintage British Falcon, 531 steel originally with Campy Triomphe 6 sp drive. By far, the best upgrade I did was a new wheelset. The bearing in the old Malliard hub were shot and new bearings felt rough due to other worn out internals. Plus, rims were well worn/warped and never had any designed braking surface. Put new Open Pro/Chorus on and HUGE difference. Also in the process got rid of the 6sp freewheel, replaced with 9sp cassette and Centuar rear derailleur. Original downtube shifters accomodate the new rear setup and the frame had naturally sprung over time from 126 to 130mm so the wheels dropped right in. I cannot believe the improvement that it made and would recommend that as your 'first' upgrade choice.

All other upgrades (except directly transferable seat, pedals, etc) would defer to a new frame build. I continually notice some surface rust and a small rust crack in the weld. Repairable, yes...permanent trainer setup...even better. Currently considering building out a Moots - and I already have the wheels!

If you want new stem/handlebars, personally would lean towards aluminum. Pricewise, Performance has namebrand aluminum 'combos' equal to the price of the Performance carbon combo. I am personally considering the Easton EA-70 or ITM Mellinium. Initially I was thinking of carbon, but saw too many pictures of split/broken carbon bars where aluminum would bend. Either way, you would have to replace a wrecked bar - but you wouldn't have the catastrophic failure and potential injury from the suddeness that carbon has.

Argueably, house brand components are the same as namebrand as manufactured in same factory with different label put on, yada yada. Of course they could be the outlet for 'seconds' that failed to meet the manufacturing specs stipulated by the namebrand. You never know. I think of it this way. I eat Cherios and stick with the General Mills product because no cheaper housebrand has come close enough to tasting like Cherios. It is worth the cost difference to me!

Hi ,
I have had good luck with Sette brand carbon components from price point. Sette is ,I think exclusive to Price Point but they also have more mainstream brands for great deals.
They have both road and mountain stuff. Lots of good deals on the net in general.
I have seen previous replies questioning whether it more cost effective to buy a new bike off the net. Leader bike usa and IBEX are two internet brands that get you into a very nice updated bike for way cheap. my daughters 2004 Leader is under 17lbs ,full ultegra,
bontrager wheels,carbon fork and seatpost and top quality stuff everywhere else. under $1000
and well worth saving for.
cheers