View Full Version : Single chainring.
bigbill 11-03-2005, 10:05 PM I have ordered a 48 tooth chainring to replace the beaten up Sugino 50 that I bought in 1990. There are days when I commute to and from work on the big ring and I find myself rarely in the small ring. I am considering ditching the FD and riding a single 48 tooth in the front. The 48 I ordered is a Salsa ring without ramps or pins so I think that it would be good to go. Is it ok to run it like that? I have a 12-23 cassette and pretty much use the 16 and 17 only. Any suggestions. No fixed gear suggestions, I really need to have some higher gears on some sections of my commute. I do Farrington Highway in Waipahu at 30+mph to get through traffic. It is a slight downhill with a tailwind. Couldn't do that in a 44-16.
Likely you will need something to retain the chain on the chainring. Cyclocross "chain guards" or a front derailleur without the cable will do the job.
If you hit a bump at just the wrong time with only one chainring and no retention device you are going to be coasting untill you can reach down and reattach the chain.
Look at cyclecross sites for more advice on this one.
bigbill 11-04-2005, 06:58 AM Likely you will need something to retain the chain on the chainring. Cyclocross "chain guards" or a front derailleur without the cable will do the job.
If you hit a bump at just the wrong time with only one chainring and no retention device you are going to be coasting untill you can reach down and reattach the chain.
Look at cyclecross sites for more advice on this one.
I had thought about chainguards, I will do some research about setup. When I rode cross many years ago, I used a 42/50 on the relatively flat courses were I raced. The same 50 that now has worn and broken teeth. Thanks for answering first.
_Mackie 11-04-2005, 09:02 AM I had thought about chainguards, I will do some research about setup. When I rode cross many years ago, I used a 42/50 on the relatively flat courses were I raced. The same 50 that now has worn and broken teeth. Thanks for answering first.
A commuter buddy of mine here in NYC did this. He put a cross guard on the outside, and got a 3rd eye chain watcher to keep the chain from faiiling to the inside. He also took a few links out of the chain so that the rear derailluer is pretty stretched when he's in the big gear in the back. He claims to rarely lose the chain with this set up.
Good luck.
timfire 11-04-2005, 01:40 PM Likely you will need something to retain the chain on the chainring.
People always say this, but in my experience the chainring falling off isn't really a concern. For a while when I was a messenger, I rode with just a single chainring (before I switched to single speed). I never had any problems.
I liked the single chainring. I rode with a 42x12-23, but I also live in the middle of flat-land. I didn't have to worry about hills.
Ignatz 11-05-2005, 03:19 PM I've run just a 38 on the front with a 13-30 seven speed on the back (weird set up I know, don't ask). No front derailleur or chain retention device of any kind, never had any problems. This was with an older Shimano double crankset and some short stack chainring bolts. The chainring didn't have any shifting aids (pins, ramps, etc.) on it. I put probably 2000 miles on this setup on a variety of road conditions. The rear derailleur was a new long cage with a nice strong spring in it, don't know if that helped.
Cerddwyr 11-05-2005, 04:32 PM I know, you said no fixie suggestions, but here goes. I used to not be able to spin, but now I can do 30 mph ona 42/16, as long as I have gravity moving me and I just need my legs to keep up. If you simplify to a single ring up front, and then find yourself only using a few gears in the back, you will be half way to the dark side anyway.
Best,
Gordon
bigbill 11-05-2005, 09:47 PM I removed my 50 and replaced it with the 48. I now have a 39/48 set up with old DA cranks and Salsa rings. The sculpted Salsa rings give it a cool look. I will take some pictures. When I took the 50 off, I realized that it was bent when i placed it on the flat concrete. Several teeth were cracked and worn down. I will try the 48 for a while and see if it is low enough to run as a single with a 12-23. I am a gear masher by nature, my natural cadence is around 80-90 rpm.
"Macalu" hasn't jumped in on this yet? I'm surprised.
cbbaron 11-07-2005, 08:54 AM I have ordered a 48 tooth chainring to replace the beaten up Sugino 50 that I bought in 1990. There are days when I commute to and from work on the big ring and I find myself rarely in the small ring. I am considering ditching the FD and riding a single 48 tooth in the front. The 48 I ordered is a Salsa ring without ramps or pins so I think that it would be good to go. Is it ok to run it like that? I have a 12-23 cassette and pretty much use the 16 and 17 only. Any suggestions. No fixed gear suggestions, I really need to have some higher gears on some sections of my commute. I do Farrington Highway in Waipahu at 30+mph to get through traffic. It is a slight downhill with a tailwind. Couldn't do that in a 44-16.
My fixie came with a 48x16 and it was quite rideable that way. That should get you to 30mph for sprints. I still ride that bike with a 48x17 on a commute that does include a couple considerable hills. You can start with single speed if that is more your style but fixed is more fun.
Craig
macalu 11-08-2005, 05:08 PM "Macalu" hasn't jumped in on this yet? I'm surprised.
Take a couple of links out of the chain and ease off the pedal force when shifting outbound on to the small cogs and you should be okay. When I start dropping the chain, it means its stretched and time for a new chain. Usually, no problem.
Gregory Taylor 11-09-2005, 08:46 AM Take a couple of links out of the chain and ease off the pedal force when shifting outbound on to the small cogs and you should be okay. When I start dropping the chain, it means its stretched and time for a new chain. Usually, no problem.
If you have a Shimano rear derailleur, you can adjust the spring on tensioner inside of the rear derailleur to the hard setting. I'm not talking about the little screw on the back that adjusts the angle of the derailleur on the dropout. There is a spring inside of the derailleur knuckle that hooks onto tension arm. The arm is drilled with multiple holes so that you can relocate the spring to vary the tension. They usually come set up with the lightest tension. Look for a small set screw on the body of the derailleur -- that is how you gain access to the innards. Once set on the highest tension, the chain rarely bounces off the cassette or front chain ring.
jh_on_the_cape 11-09-2005, 10:38 AM Single chainring works great if the terrain is OK for it. but...
The chainline will be crossed if you put it in the big cog in the back and big ring in front. or if you put the single front ring on the inside (if it fits through the frame) then the chainline will be bad when in the little cogs out back.
so double front rings are there to make the chainline straighter for more gears.
that said, i did a single front ring for a while. i didnt see any advantage to it, even though i am in the big ring all the time, too. the front der. keeps the chain on. and i already had the front der and chainrings and shifter, so no money saved.
just dont shift the front der. and you will be fine...
if you really want to go one front ring and are finding the chain is dropping after all adjustments (shorter chain, stronger rear der spring, smaller cage rear der). a good way is a guard on the outside (you can use the old 50 tooth ring, just grind down the teeth a bit) and an Ngear jumpstop on the inside (google it, theyare $10).
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