Gents,

I'm currently working on a truing the front of my first build. It's an American Classic 24h hub that I'm radially lacing to an IRD Cadence rim. I chose to alternate inbound/outbound when I started, thinking it would balance the stresses on the hub. As I've started to true it, I'm beginning to think this may have been a mistake. I'm having a tad of difficulty truing this one up on the stand. I expected it to be a bit more difficult due to the 24 spokes vs. the 28 for the rear, but I'm wondering if the different angles of the spokes is making it harder than it needs to be. Tell me it's my imagination and I'll just get on with the job....

Thanks,
Greg

Gents,

I'm currently working on a truing the front of my first build. It's an American Classic 24h hub that I'm radially lacing to an IRD Cadence rim. I chose to alternate inbound/outbound when I started, thinking it would balance the stresses on the hub. As I've started to true it, I'm beginning to think this may have been a mistake. I'm having a tad of difficulty truing this one up on the stand. I expected it to be a bit more difficult due to the 24 spokes vs. the 28 for the rear, but I'm wondering if the different angles of the spokes is making it harder than it needs to be. Tell me it's my imagination and I'll just get on with the job....

Thanks,
Greg

I used Wheelsmith XL 14 spoes and went, as I always do, with the spoke head facing out.

Why would you want to mix? If they have said that heads out is the stiffest, due to higher bracing angle, then why would you want to mix the good with the bad... just go headsout

Why would you want to mix? If they have said that heads out is the stiffest, due to higher bracing angle, then why would you want to mix the good with the bad... just go headsout
"...heads out is the stiffest, due to higher bracing angle, ..."???

I would think that heads in would give you a wider effective flange width and a larger angle. - TF

Gents,

I'm currently working on a truing the front of my first build. It's an American Classic 24h hub that I'm radially lacing to an IRD Cadence rim. I chose to alternate inbound/outbound when I started, thinking it would balance the stresses on the hub. As I've started to true it, I'm beginning to think this may have been a mistake. I'm having a tad of difficulty truing this one up on the stand. I expected it to be a bit more difficult due to the 24 spokes vs. the 28 for the rear, but I'm wondering if the different angles of the spokes is making it harder than it needs to be. Tell me it's my imagination and I'll just get on with the job....

Thanks,
Greg
As to your quetion, it will make no difference with the truing. It's your imagination. - TF

Heads out definitely. the problem you are facing might be because you didn't prep the spoke ends before building? If you have, agree with the rest... it's your imagination.

Spoke twist? Since you are building light wheels I bet you are using Revolutions or something thin. It's very hard to keep these from being twisted. - TF

I have 3 sets of AM Classic factory built wheels and all the fronts are radial laced with the heads out. Spokes are DT Revolutions or Sapim C-Xrays. Hope this helps.

FWIW, I've never seen any radial wheel (on a normal hub, that is) spoked any way other than heads-out. It's more aerodynamic that way.

Oops sorry, I meant ELBOWS out, is the stiffest

It is true that most factory wheels like AC will come elbows in, but this is neither a more aero nor stronger design.

Looks like the consensus is heads-out and it makes sense from an aerodynamic perspective. I'll take them all out, use some spoke prep (I got by without it on the rear), lightly lube the nipples, and try it again.

Thanks for the advice!
G

FWIW, I've never seen any radial wheel (on a normal hub, that is) spoked any way other than heads-out. It's more aerodynamic that way.I've seen them build heads in, but I've never done it.

I've built many heads out radial front wheels.

M