I am trying to remove an impossible bottom bracket. I have the correct park tool and the non-drive (L) side lockring came off fairly easily(rubber mallet and large wrench). The drive side will not budge. I have checked two reputable books and both say right side, turn clockwise to remove. Please help. The bottom bracket in question is sitting in my new Colnago build up project. BTW, I don't care what happens to the bottom bracket in the removal process. Please help.

MG

Try some penetrating oil overnight and/or lengthening the lever you're using (a piece of pipe or old seatpost or whatever you have).

As I said previously, I consulted two books. Book 1 by Park Tool says nothing about the threading being correct(clockwise to tighten) for Italian threaded BBs on the drive side. Book 2 by Bicycling told me this, only after using all my strangth to loosen it the wrong fricking way. Luckily my wife gave me Book 2 early because it was supposed the be a Christmas present. I have half a mind to send a nasty letter to Park tools and demand they give me a full professional set of tools to make up for my hastle due to their flawed book.

MG

Missed that part about the Colnago...surprised Park doesn't cover that, tho.

Missed that part about the Colnago...surprised Park doesn't cover that, tho.

Agree - especially since Park Tool mentions Italian threading on their website. Quote:

" . . . Bikes made in Italy may use "Italian" threading, with both drive and non-drive sides right hand thread. There may be markings such as "36 x 24" on the cups."

Perhaps the uncertainty of it (2 times "may" in 2 sentences) made someone take it out of the print book.

I had an inpossible to remove Octilink BB one time. Finally I pulled the wheels and put the BB tool in a vise, then the bike on top. I had someone hold pressure down over the BB and I turned the bike slowly (the right direction) and it came of sooo easily.

I had an inpossible to remove Octilink BB one time. Finally I pulled the wheels and put the BB tool in a vise, then the bike on top. I had someone hold pressure down over the BB and I turned the bike slowly (the right direction) and it came of sooo easily.
Got the smae problem .I have been told that my Ultegra bb is English thread, but on the non drive side cup it says "36x24T 70" I think this may be Italian, I have been turning the drive side cup clockwise to undo as i thought it was English. Help!

36X24T 70 is most absoutely an Italian BB.

Right hand threads.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html#threading

36X24T 70 is most absoutely an Italian BB.

Right hand threads.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html#threading


The book I was following ("Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair" by Park Tools) did not distinguish between Italian and English. I got another book and it said Italian = standard threads on both sides. BINGO, it came right off.

MG

36X24T 70 is most absoutely an Italian BB.

Right hand threads.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html#threading
Spot on, bb now out thanks for the help.

Spot on, bb now out thanks for the help.

I have had lots of problems with Dura Ace BBs sticking in frames. So much so that the splines deteriorate after a few 'cycles' through different frames. One tip? Get some all thread at your local hardware and make a clamp to pull the BB tool into the splines while you loosen the dang things..Run the all-thread through the axle, put the tool into the bottom bracket, then put a stout washer and nut on top of the BB tool and snug it up. Then, loosen the first 1/4 turn of the BB without danger of buggering up the splines. Be sure to take your 'special tool' off once you've un stuck the BB..
Don Hanson

It happened to me tool. The BB socket slot get damaged after few tries.
The socket woouldn't stay on BB with a little twist. The way I got it off is to
put the socket on with a ranch then use a clamp to clamp from both side of BB.
The ranch is within the clamping arm so it get pretty good pressure against
the socket and BB. Then I slowly twist the ranch. Once the BB move a little
I remove the clamp and can finish the removal. I am switching to external
style to save the hassle.

This sticky BB myth amuses me. I wouldn't be suprised to find that they are fitted into frames that have not been tapped out prior to fitting the BB. That applies to ANY frame, even if you think it has been tapped run the cutters through the shell and face the shell. Almost all home mechanics won't have the tools as the cost is prohibitive. Any shop mechanic worth his salt will do it on new and used frames. It's good practice. You can't assume that thframe builder or manufacturer has done it with sharp taps. If they haven't then the threads will not be clean. It takes 5 minutes or so.