My bike has contracted an unfortunate click. It happens only when I apply a good amount of pressure to my LEFT crank and only at about the 10/2 oclock position, whether i'm using cycling shoes or not; standing or not. The sound is akin to a brake or shifter cable tapping against my aluminum frame.

So here's a list of what I've done: relubed/retightened bottom bracket and lockring (twice), replaced bottom bracket with spare, replaced pedals, replaced wheelset, tightened/lubed chainring bolts, tightened derailleur dropout, and lubed: chain, crank splines (octalink bracket), front derailleur clamp, pedal-crank interface, stem/handlebar joint, headset, seatpost/collar, quick releases, cable housings. I've checked all the cables and made sure they aren't in the way, took off the bike computer/cadence monitor, waterbottle cages, and seat bag.

Kerry Irons - I've searched through your posts and done everything that you normally prescribe for noises.

And the click continues unabated, with none of the above even quieting it. I'm beginning to think that I may have a crack in the frame, but I cannot find one on the frame's exterior. If anyone has had any experiences with unordinary causes of clicks, please let me know. I can't find anymore bike parts to lube, replace, or tighten. :mad2:

Does it happen on the stand?

Grease the seat post.

teflon tape on the crank/bb interface... (just to rule out the crankset)

You say you replaced the pedals. Did you change the cleats on your shoes, or shoes? Just a thought, since it's part of the moving interface that could click on you.

It doesn't click on the stand. It only clicks when I apply force to the left crank while pedalling.

Already greased the seat post.

Teflon tape is on (with and without antiseize...neither worked)

Clicks even when I pedal using regular street shoes. I replaced the pedals themselves and the click is still there. But once again, only when pedalling with the left crank.

Chances are, if you can think of a metal-metal interface, I've already tightened/greased/taped/replaced it. If you name one and I haven't, I'll go to it asap. I'm beginning to think it could be a crank problem, but I cannot think of where it would be b/c there's not much to a crank.

Left side? is your leg hitting the rear brake housing loop, and that taps against the frame?

Left side? is your leg hitting the rear brake housing loop, and that taps against the frame?

I've got rubber beads on the cable so it shouldn't make any noise. I made sure they were spaced out also so that there wasn't a section that could easily tap against the frame.

I was talking about the HOUSING, not the cable. I had to trim my rear brake housing by the brake caliper once because it stuck up to high and my leg kept hitting it.

I was talking about the HOUSING, not the cable. I had to trim my rear brake housing by the brake caliper once because it stuck up to high and my leg kept hitting it.

Didn't read closely enough, but no, it's really not possible for my leg to hit the rear brake housing the way it is set up (especially while standing).

Try different rear wheel?

Try different rear wheel?

Yep, lubed the rear dropouts and used my spare wheelset. Even used a different qr skewer (lubricated of course).

Just go ahead and dropkick it.

HTH

Just go ahead and dropkick it.

HTH

Chuck Norris totally would, so I'm going to.

Chuck Norris totally would, so I'm going to.
CN doesn't dropkick. He roundhouses.

Check your saddle rails and seat post clamp... or switch them out to see if itis coming from there. I've had a unilateral click emanate from a bent rail flexing within the post clamp....

I hope you find it...

joe

edit: sorry, i just remembered you said it clicks whether you are in the saddle or not. Hmm...

I demand silence from my rides. I have a tick/click noise coming from my Ti frame. I have tried all the usual suspects, 2 at a time. First was the easy stuff, then I went a little harder(bb and headset). After yesterdays ride, I noticed that the noise was not happeneing when I stand, it was not there last year, but is now there when I repositioned my saddle this year. Today I took the post/saddle apart, cleaned and lubed as that seems to be the only culprit with the exception of the bar interface. The noise seems to be underneath me and to the rear. I don't recall you mentioning seat rails.

Try this:

Remove all grease from the seatpost/seatube.

Apply green Locktite (penetrating, very liquid kind) onto the seatpost and into the seatube. Be liberal, spread it around.

Slide the seatpost into the seatube, pump it a few times and then insert it as much as you can. Tighten it down. Lie the bike down on its side overnight. The bike has to be lying down so that the locktite doesn't creep into the BB threads.

The next day, remove the seatpost. The post will feel tighter and if your lucky, the noise gone.

This solution has worked more than once for me.

Try this:

Remove all grease from the seatpost/seatube.

Apply green Locktite (penetrating, very liquid kind) onto the seatpost and into the seatube. Be liberal, spread it around.

Slide the seatpost into the seatube, pump it a few times and then insert it as much as you can. Tighten it down. Lie the bike down on its side overnight. The bike has to be lying down so that the locktite doesn't creep into the BB threads.

The next day, remove the seatpost. The post will feel tighter and if your lucky, the noise gone.

This solution has worked more than once for me.

It's not the seat, seatpost, or seat rails. I just rode it standing up without the seat/seatpost included and it clicks. I like the idea though.

Does the click happen every rev or every OTHER rev on your left side?

Does the click happen every rev or every OTHER rev on your left side?

Every rev. If I apply light force to my left crank, it won't click. But if I apply enough force it will click every rev. I don't think it's the chain, if that's what you're after. Otherwise my right crank would click as well and that never does.

Had the exact same symptons on both of my bikes. Turned out I was
not applying enough torque to both sides of the Campy BB during installation.

Okay so ruled out seat post saddle, pedals, wheels/cassette. I would closely examine the crank arms for cracks, try a different chain.

Sorry to tell you this, but I think you need to call Chuck Norris to solve this problem

I had a problem like this too. I tightened the rear derailleur hanger and the noise was gone. Try it, it might be loose.

My bike has contracted an unfortunate click. It happens only when I apply a good amount of pressure to my LEFT crank and only at about the 10/2 oclock position, whether i'm using cycling shoes or not; standing or not. The sound is akin to a brake or shifter cable tapping against my aluminum frame.

So here's a list of what I've done: relubed/retightened bottom bracket and lockring (twice), replaced bottom bracket with spare, replaced pedals, replaced wheelset, tightened/lubed chainring bolts, tightened derailleur dropout, and lubed: chain, crank splines (octalink bracket), front derailleur clamp, pedal-crank interface, stem/handlebar joint, headset, seatpost/collar, quick releases, cable housings. I've checked all the cables and made sure they aren't in the way, took off the bike computer/cadence monitor, waterbottle cages, and seat bag.
. :mad2:

Since you've done almost everything else, try the brifters. When you step down on the crank, you put force on the brifters or handlebars. You've already checked the headset, and stem/handlebar interface.

So now see if it clicks when you ride with your hands on the bar tops. If not, then it's not the brifters. Last thing I can think of is the stem/steerer tube interface.

It's not the brifters or the dropout. I can ride on the tops and it'll click; I tightened the dropout and it clicked.

I took a closer look at my left crank and what I found is in these pictures. I don't have the best light in my garage, so I found some better light and I found what looks like a crack?!? :eek:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h87/fryguyfootfuk/P5080245.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h87/fryguyfootfuk/P5080248.jpg

I never saw this before because it is only on the outside of the crank. You can see the main 'fault' line, and there are also two more parallel to the largest one about an inch above the electrical tape - one above and below. The lines are thin and jagged, and don't look thick enough to be a scratch.

This really has me worried now. :eek:

Let us know if changing the cranks solves this mystery.

I got a loaner crankset from the lbs, put the left crankarm on and the click stopped. Conclusion: crack in the left crankarm like I suspected (thanks for the suggestion Lone Gunman). I'm happy the crack didn't spread and leave me with a broken crank in the middle of a sprint. I'm not sure why it happened. The gossamer cranks are supposedly one of FSA's best.

Lbs is warranty-returning the cranks to FSA.

Thank you all for your very, very helpful suggestions. I may have prevented more than just an annoying noise by solving this problem. :thumbsup: