Hi there, does anyone have any experience with Shimano's compact crank? As far as performance grade, are these cranks in line with D/A, Ultegra, or 105???

I am thinking about going compact on my ride, but most of the reviews I've seen are related to FSA's. My bike was initially set with an FSA compact, but I was never able to get it to shift properly, so ended with regular Ultegra crank. I still want to go compact, but don't want to have to deal with any compatibility problems.

My bike's set: 2005 Litespeed Teramo, Full Ultegra 10 drive train (currently with the Ultegra crank also.

That is going to be an Ultegra level crank as stated in Bicycling Magazine, April 2006 pg. 114. The article also states that it works with traditional (non-compact) front derailleurs.

Regards

jparman

I bought one of these to replace the durace 10 speed crankset. It fits in without any other modifications and takes about 15 -30 minutes. It is heavier then the durace but works very well.
It is 34-50, I just trimmed the front deraiuller adjustment screw slightly.

I just took my second ride with my new FC-R700 crank and couldn't be happier. I'm running an Ultegra 9 spd rear (12/26), 50/34 front, a front derailleur, chain, and bottom bracket from the Ultegra 10 spd group. Don't know whether it's the upgrade to the new front derailleur or the chainrings on the crank setup, but it shifts remarkably quick and smooth. Instantaneous! And the only thing that would make the hills any easier would be a triple or a motor. The reviews are filled with people who say they have problems with shifting, dropped chains, etc. so I went with Shimano because I didn't want any hassles. And, I got exactly what I hoped for. I recommend it highly.

I tried it and shifting was perfect even riding uphill and standing on the pedals.

What are the advantages, if any, of using a compact crank? My wife just upgraded my entire bike, including new paint job from Trek, new wheels...the works. She got me an Ultegra Compact Crank set and I want to know if I am going to lose any top-end speed.

If you could push your biggest gear combination and max out your cadence before, then yes, you could have a decrease in top speed. I was running a 53/12 and even down a big hill have a little left rpm wise. So for me, the 50/12 combination has been just fine, the closer gear ratios have been great, and having a 34/26 low combination has been wonderful for those really steep hills we have here in Missouri. My only complaint is that I find that I have to shift between the small and large chainrings a lot more often due to the lower maximum speed resulting from the switch from a 39 to a 34 small ring up front. But, the setup shift so incredibly fast, it's really not an issue. I just have to remember the some of the speed I used to ride in my small chainring now requires a shirt to the big one.

If your cassette is 11-23, you can gain both easier and harder peddling with a compact crank. :)
To see the numbers, go to the gears computer at sheldonbrown.com/gears. To understand why, just know that dropping from 53 to 50 on the large chain ring is more than compensated for by dropping from 12 to 11 on the cassette. Meanwhile, a 34 T chainring paired with a 23T cassette is still easier to peddle than a 39T chainring and a 25T cassette. You can gain on both ends. The risk is that some compact cranks don't work as well and the chain slips off due to the bigger change from 50 to 34 teeth when compared to the smaller change from 53 to 39.

I have the FC R700 and like the other posters said, it shifts wonderful. I run a 25-12 and run out of gears on some of the downhills but never close on the flats. I was just in CO for the Bicycle Tour of CO and I ran out of gears just about everytime I went down, so I just jumped on a big guys wheel.
I am a stronger climber than most of the people I ride with and I enjoyed having a 25 on the rear for the CO ride, I needed no more gears. If the hills around your area are not and long, you maybe fine with a 23-11. Whole reason to have a compact is improve climbing ability so I personally will leave the 25 on.
The neg about this crank: if your into weight, most FSA carbon compacts are lighter.
Just one guys opinion, I have had the crank on for 4 months.

I've put about 1000k on my set in the past two months and absolutely love it. The shifting is SUPER crisp compared to my old FSA setup - as Roadkill said it's instantaneous. Never missed a shift or dropped a chain and it doesn't complain even shifting on hills. Well worth the extra weight over the FSA IMHO.

g

Guero,
I was just curious, what kind of FSA crank did you have? Was it a carbon compact or standard crank?

My old setup was Gossamer standard 53/39 x 27/12. In making the switch to the FC-R700 I now run 50/34 x 23/11. Gives me a higher high and lower low. Great spread - the only gears I'm missing vs. a standard spread are smack in the middle - I honestly don't notice any loss.

I'm sorry, I don't have any experience on FSA's compact cranks, but the quality of shfting in changing over to Shimano is huge! From what I hear Shimano can't be beat for shifting performance and based on my experience so far I'd whole heartedly agree.

Some things you buy for chache and less for the performance. The R700's are all about performance. I can honestly say they are worth every penny. Don't buy them for the looks (there are better looking cranks) or the weight (they're heavier than most by a few grams). If you're looking for a true upgrade in shifting performance and want a wider range without going triple, these are your ticket. I'd pay an extra $100 to hold on to the set I have.

I just read the Velownew's (?) article on the Ultegra FC-700 review. It was glowing. I mean this is a real sleeper setup. They said it shifted flawlessly with 9 or 10-speed. Plus it weighs the same as a DA crank at 740 grams and is priced around $270 list to boot. It's a way cheaper compact setup compared to Campy.

I like to spin on warm up and recovery rides. It seems to me the 34 would limit this. Is that true? I ride an Ultegra Crank 39/53 now on a Tarmac Expert. I have visions of some mountain riding next year and think this crank and set up would be the perfect gearing...

If I understand the question correctly the answer is - you would spin at a higher cadence with the compact during your warm up and recovery ride c/w the standard setup. Thus not hendering spinning.

My big draw to the compact has been the fact that I do not have to shift into the 34 very often.

I was in CO earlier this year doing the Bicycle Tour of CO. The compact in my opinion made it a lot easier.

Todd

I'm thinking of a compact Ultegra crankset on a new frame build-up. Any other feedback on this crank?

I think it sounds like a good compromise between a 53/39 and a triple.

I'm thinking of a compact Ultegra crankset on a new frame build-up. Any other feedback on this crank?

I think it sounds like a good compromise between a 53/39 and a triple.

I thought about going this route for the new bike I'm building, either the FSA SL-K compact or the Shimano compact crank, but I've decided to just go with a 12-27 rear cassette for now. In "Dura Ace" flavor, the 12-27 is only 27 grams heavier than the 11-23 so I don't feel like I am paying a significant weight penalty. I guess I will see about the slightly wider spacing amongst the gears when I get it built and actually get some riding time in.

On the subject of gearing, I found this article (http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/gearing.html)to be interesting and informative:

Bradley

I thought about going this route for the new bike I'm building, either the FSA SL-K compact or the Shimano compact crank, but I've decided to just go with a 12-27 rear cassette for now. In "Dura Ace" flavor, the 12-27 is only 27 grams heavier than the 11-23 so I don't feel like I am paying a significant weight penalty. I guess I will see about the slightly wider spacing amongst the gears when I get it built and actually get some riding time in.

On the subject of gearing, I found this article (http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/gearing.html)to be interesting and informative:

Bradley
27 grams = 0.95239692 oz.

27 grams = 0.95239692 oz.

It's more like 0.952396973 ounces, but hey... who's counting? :P Then again it isn't meaningful to impute more significant digits (precision) than you started out with, so would be more appropriate to say 0.95 ounces. To me, a single ounce is not significant and many compact cranks weigh more than the Dura Ace 53/39T (when you take into account the weight of the corresponding BB), so in that scenario using the 11-23 cassette wouldn't even save weight.

Bradley

It's more like 0.952396973 ounces, but hey... who's counting? :P Then again it isn't meaningful to impute more significant digits (precision) than you started out with, so would be more appropriate to say 0.95 ounces. To me, a single ounce is not significant and many compact cranks weigh more than the Dura Ace 53/39T (when you take into account the weight of the corresponding BB), so in that scenario using the 11-23 cassette wouldn't even save weight.

Bradley
I was just making fun of weightweenieism, not that I don't practice it myself on occasions.

I'm wondering about a compact crank as part of my cross bike build. I'm glad to read the shifting problems are a false rumor. Now I'm just wondering what people think about the pros and cons of the gear ratios associated with compact cranks and cross racing? Thanks for your insights.

As others here have mentioned in the past, I really wish Shimano would make a DA compact. They make a DA triple, so I don't see why the wouldn't make a DA compact.

I currently have an R700 on my rain bike. It's a great crank for the price.

As others here have mentioned in the past, I really wish Shimano would make a DA compact. They make a DA triple, so I don't see why the wouldn't make a DA compact.

I currently have an R700 on my rain bike. It's a nice crank.

I don't think a DA compact would be much of a difference from a R700. Only the platinum finish and maybe a tad lighter. Many have said the R700 shifts as good as a DA7800, and it looks virtually identical, so . . . the R700 is basically a DA compact at an Ultegra price!

I'm wondering about a compact crank as part of my cross bike build. I'm glad to read the shifting problems are a false rumor. Now I'm just wondering what people think about the pros and cons of the gear ratios associated with compact cranks and cross racing? Thanks for your insights.
I haven't tried a compact crank yet but recently changed to a 48t big ring instead of a 53 on my cross bike, using a ultegra octalink crank. I can actually use the 48t on the cross cours and the smaller gap between front rings makes for faster shifting and no need for a intermediate rear shift like with a normal road double. The 50t on the compact cranks is probably just a little too big for cross racing use and the large difference in ring tooth gap- especially with a 34t would mean too big of a gap between rings, plus a 34t is probably too small for cross. With a compact crank a 36/48 or 46t big ring would be better. In cross I don't see any real advantages to a compact crank, a regular road double with 48/39, or 48/38, or 46/39 or 46/38, in comination with a 8-9-or perhaps a 10speed cassette that is 12-25 or 26 or 27.
And as far as road ridding the cross bike I haven't missed the 53t I can still sprint on the flats up to 35+ mph and pedal down hills at up the 45mph, after which pedaling doesn't do too much good usually anyway.

I'm wondering about a compact crank as part of my cross bike build. I'm glad to read the shifting problems are a false rumor. Now I'm just wondering what people think about the pros and cons of the gear ratios associated with compact cranks and cross racing? Thanks for your insights.
I have recently had to replace my crakset so I've mounted a Shimano compact (should the occasion of a big climb arises) as a simpler and lighter solution instead a triple chainring.

Despite the fact that it shifts perfectly from one chainring to another, (even with an old Shimano 600 derailleur for 8 speed) I find unconfortable the big gap between both rings:

I can speed my legs up to 19 miles/h with the 34 chainring and the 14 teeth procket, but when I engage the big ring, I have to step back 4 sprockets to the 19 teeth one. Because I often cruise around 20 miles/h this made my chain beeing always "crossed", so I've replaced the 34 chainring for a 40-th (TA Specialites) and I will get a 46 or 48 teeth for the big one.

The (46 X 12) gives 32 mil/h at 95 rpm and anyway, while descending I usually pull the brake before the speedometer reaches such “high” number.

I'll reserve the original rings for the big days = long climbs and exhilarating descents.

I'm wondering about a compact crank as part of my cross bike build. I'm glad to read the shifting problems are a false rumor. Now I'm just wondering what people think about the pros and cons of the gear ratios associated with compact cranks and cross racing? Thanks for your insights.
I have recently had to replace my crakset so I've mounted a Shimano compact (should the occasion of a big climb arises) as a simpler and lighter solution instead a triple chainring.

Despite the fact that it shifts perfectly from one chainring to another, (even with an old Shimano 600 derailleur for 8 speed) I find unconfortable the big gap between both rings:

I can speed my legs up to 19 miles/h with the 34 chainring and the 14 teeth procket, but when I engage the big ring, I have to step back 4 sprockets to the 19 teeth one. Because I often cruise around 20 miles/h this made my chain beeing always "crossed", so I've replaced the 34 chainring for a 40-th (TA Specialites) and I will get a 46 or 48 teeth for the big one.

The (46 X 12) gives 32 mil/h at 95 rpm and anyway, while descending I usually pull the brake before the speedometer reaches such “high” number.

I'll reserve the original rings for the big days = long climbs and exhilarating descents.

I'd also like to see a DA Compact crank. The R700 is very nice, but the DA crank has more ankle clearance. I hate knocking those scabs off my ankle every time it seems like it's healed.

What do you guys consider to be a "big climb"? I just can't ride straight up hills seated with extended 18-21% grades on my 39-25. I'm just not very efficient standing, and only do so to stretch or do a limited distnce of steep climbling. I'm getting a Shimano compact on my rain/winter bike, but really like the stock DA on my Scott.

What do you guys consider to be a "big climb"? I just can't ride straight up hills seated with extended 18-21% grades on my 39-25. I'm just not very efficient standing, and only do so to stretch or do a limited distnce of steep climbling. I'm getting a Shimano compact on my rain/winter bike, but really like the stock DA on my Scott.extended 18-21%??? I doubt you are going up too many 18-21% roads much less extended ones. That is very steep and almost anyone including pros will be standing for those. I like to stand for most of a climb since most are short and relatively steep where I live. Everyone is different and what people consider big or tough will vary. I rarely use anything lower than a 39/23 or 25 even on very hilly or mountainous centuries. I seem to fly by most people that are sitting and spinning with tiny compacts and/or huge gears in the back.

Danilo DiLuca used a 34/29 for the extended 18-21% grades at the Giro.

Danilo DiLuca used a 34/29 for the extended 18-21% grades at the Giro.That was a rumor because he used a 36/26 on the Lavaredo which was the steepest climb I believe.
http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=/photos/2007/tech/features/giro_wrap/Giro07Tech-Cdale4
http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech.php?id=/photos/2007/tech/features/giro_wrap/Giro07Tech-Cdale3


Tre Cime di Lavaredo (avg. grade 7.6%, max 18%)
Also how many roads in the world are like that though?

For those of you familiar with NJ/PA area, I'm talking about roads like Iron Bridge (a couple of sections hit 20%, and averages +/- 15% for over a mile, depending on where you start) in Asbury, NJ. Uhlerstown Hill Rd.(up to 24% and gated off all winter, every winter), in PA across the river from Frenchtown, NJ, and the evil triumverate of Bellis, Shire and Adamic Hill Rds. in Holland Twp., NJ.

Toporoutes won't even accept Uhlerstown Hill Rd. as a road. When you try to map it, the auto routing feature backs it out and takes you around on full time roads.

I have a compact FSA SL-K that came undone this weekend (thankfully only a mile from the end of my ride...and no wreck). I don't know if it was torqued correctly when installed 800 miles ago, but I guess the loosening chewed up some of the teeth and grooves inside the left arm and spindle. The shop thought it should be fine, but some think it might come loose again. Long story short, the shop (I didn't originally purchase the damaged crank at this shop) pointed out other options if I ever felt the need to get a new compact crank. According to the mechanic, the FC R700 was close enough to the D/A and the only difference (besides the anodized finish) was a higher quality machining of the D/As teeth. Probably wouldn't make a difference to me.

Swapped out the Dura Ace crank with the 700 compact on my new bike. The bike is primarily ridden on long (up to 14 mi.), steep mountainous rides in the Sierra Nevada and near Mt. Shasta. There are better looking & lighter compacts, but this one functions perfectly. I noticed the loss of top end with the 50x12 on downhills so I am now using an 11-28 cassette from IRD. The 50x11 is larger than 53x12 - this is a sweet setup for up & down rides and the 50 is nicer than a 53 for me when I do hit some flats. The IRD 10sp. cassette shifts as well as the Dura Ace but is heavier. Also, the SRAM chains work much better for me than Shimanos.

I have a 6-week old Ridley Damocles that we built out with the R700 and a 11-23.

I do not climb well, and was switching from a triple with a 12-27.....so "concerned"

yesterday rode my first ride in the North Georgia "Gaps", including two 5-mile + climbs that averaged 8% (Woody's Gap and Neel's Gap).

I was fine, although honestly I would have liked to have another (25 or 27) cog on these climbs.

I didn't "need" it, but a couple times, just being able to drop into it and spin for a while would have been nice (although grinding up in the 34/23 combo probably built up some nice leg strength and my cadence stayed up high enough that I was "OK").

Anyways, I would really recommend it, and have not had any shifting issues other than getting "used" to up-shifting 2 gears to set up shifts from the 50 to the 34, so you don't spin out).

I have taken the 11-23 and 12-27 cassettes and taken the 16 out of the 12-27 and replaced the 12 with the 11 from the other and now I have an 11-27 with the compact crankset 50/34.

I now have the fast downhills AND the lower uphill gears and did not sacrifice the midrange to any significant degree. I find myself using the 34/24 for most steep hills not even using the 34/27 yet. I wanted to go with the 53/39 to get the fastest possible on the downhills but I probably need the uphill low gears more than I need the faster downhills.

The Shimano Ultegra SL compact (50/34) is available now, part number FC-6650-G. I got mine for $250. It's at least prettier than the R700.

I just got a Specialized Expert Double, Ultegra everything. I didn't think I could handle a regular double so I had it swapped with the compact. Everything's working just fine, no other parts needed to be swapped (they just had to move the FD a little and take out a couple chain links I think).

EDIT: Hmm, didn't realize how old this thread was...

I bought a new Kestrel bike having FSA Gossamer compact crank. My mechanic could not get the thing to shift right. All the other components (chain, rings, cassette, derailers) are 10-speed Ultegra coupled with a Gossamer 36-50. Moving between chainrings was miserable. It just plain didn't work. I would not ride the bike, it was so bad.

The R700 upgrade was the best investment I've ever made in a bike. It shifts flawlessly. It's quiet, and feels stiff, even on a carbon frame.

You will be glad you spent the money.

I an going from a 7800 39/53 to the R-700 and in shopping around the best price I found was at Lickbike.com for $170. They have some awsome prices on alot of drivetrain parts. Just thought I would save you guys and gals a few bucks. Happy riding out there!

Yes, Lickbike is usually the first place I look for components.

I have a Dura Ace 53/39 crank on now, and going to switch to this Shimano compact for some Colorado riding. Maybe I will leave it on permanently, maybe not, that will depend on how I like it.

Have those of you who made this swtich needed to do anything with the front derailleur ? Does it need to be moved down on the seat tube, since the 50 is smaller in diameter than a 53 ? Or isn't that difference enough to matter ?

Doug

I have a Dura Ace 53/39 crank on now, and going to switch to this Shimano compact for some Colorado riding. Maybe I will leave it on permanently, maybe not, that will depend on how I like it.

Have those of you who made this swtich needed to do anything with the front derailleur ? Does it need to be moved down on the seat tube, since the 50 is smaller in diameter than a 53 ? Or isn't that difference enough to matter ?

Doug
Yes, you will have to move the front dérailleur down to achieve the 1~2MM clearance on the big ring and re-adjust the cable tension.

I an going from a 7800 39/53 to the R-700 and in shopping around the best price I found was at Lickbike.com for $170. They have some awsome prices on alot of drivetrain parts. Just thought I would save you guys and gals a few bucks. Happy riding out there!


Chainlove.com have them for $128 ..