Are the STI shifters the only way to go when it comes to CX? They're so expensive. I have been trying to get a used set off of eBay for sometime now and they still go for 120-130. I can get a brand new set for around 190. Where else can I look besides eBay or am I going to have to break down and spend the money? Thanks.

-Beau

bar ends are cheap, and were the standard back in the day

bar ends are cheap, and were the standard back in the day

i think there's a couple of guys on the board who use single ring up front with a bar-end shifter in the rear set on friction. it seems it would be best used with 8 speed or the shifting might be too lively. I've never tried it, but I can't imagine that after an adjustment period that it would slow you down.

Buy cheap Campy Mirage Ergo levers and use them with a shimano derailer with the cable hooked up "hubbub" style to shift a Shimano 8 speed cassette. Or use them with a Campy derailleur to shift a Shimano 9s.

Campy Mirage levers work great and cost a LOT less than STI and can be repaired if they break unlike STI.

Ron

Buy cheap Campy Mirage Ergo levers and use them with a shimano derailer with the cable hooked up "hubbub" style to shift a Shimano 8 speed cassette. Or use them with a Campy derailleur to shift a Shimano 9s.

Campy Mirage levers work great and cost a LOT less than STI and can be repaired if they break unlike STI.

Ron

105 is pretty cheap and works well. Especially for Cross since it is built a little more chunky than say, Dura-Ace.

bar ends are cheap, and were the standard back in the day

i couldnt imagine having to go into my drops every time i wanted to shift in a 'cross race.

paying the extra for STI shifters is soooo worth it to me.


we pay hundreds of dollars for race entry fees, i cant see the point in skimping on a critical part of your bike.

i know.. i know... they're simple. they're cheap. they dont break. etc etc... still not worth it.

like ML said. buy some 105's

Have you looked at Modolo Morphos STI Gear/Brake Levers?

one more alternative-
single speed

STI (or campy) is worth it if you want to be competitive. $190 for shifters may seem like a lot right now but just wait till you get going... you'll forget all about it.

I am going to pass on the Modolo's. I asked around and I hear they don't shift all that great. Maybe I'm old school but if I pay 200 dollars for something it better work. I am thinking about placing thumb shifters ($60) near the middle, or where my hands comfortably rest, and shift like that. I think it could be a real original look. I'll spend 25 bucks and get some standard break levers and total out around 80 bucks, instead of 200.

-Links

kelly bikes has their take off mounts on "final clearance" for $40, pair those with dt shifters and you've got a cheap setup that's perhaps more ergo than barcons.

Or Paul's thumbies. Get them here cheap;
http://www.speedgoat.com/product.asp?part=110521
That's where I got mine. Quick shipment and cheaper than buying directly from Paul.

If you arn't locked into having 9 or 10 rear cogs, the older top mount shifters such as Shimano XT 7-speed units and Suntour XC Pro 8-speeds work great mounted on bar tops. I raced a Frankenbike set up like that for several years. You have to spread the shifter clamps a little to mount them on drop bars. It worked great, and I still use the bike for commuting and general cruising around. See attached picture.

I am going to pass on the Modolo's. I asked around and I hear they don't shift all that great. Maybe I'm old school but if I pay 200 dollars for something it better work. I am thinking about placing thumb shifters ($60) near the middle, or where my hands comfortably rest, and shift like that. I think it could be a real original look. I'll spend 25 bucks and get some standard break levers and total out around 80 bucks, instead of 200.

-Links

For the extra 80.00 the STI will make a pretty big difference. Also, consider going single ring on the front. If you have to use an old chain ring ( with the teeth removed ) as a guide and buy one STI lever. Tons of guys run this system you should be able to do it for about 80.00. I think if you go the thumb shifter way, you will end up getting rid of it in time. It might run you a few buck more up front, but in the long run you will save.
good luck.

like ML said. buy some 105's
+2

I picked up a set of 9-spd. 105s from Nashbar for $130 not too long ago. They appear to be OOS now but if you keep your eyes peeled you may find a similar deal.

I am thinking about placing thumb shifters ($60) near the middle

You mean sort of like this? I went with the Paul's Thumbies, and I like 'em. Not enough to do this on every bike, but it definitely works for me. About the only drawback is that it makes the top of the bars pretty "busy", but that's really only an issue if you use the bike for commuting/road riding as well as 'cross and want to mount lights or a computer.

Have you looked at Modolo Morphos STI Gear/Brake Levers?

Don't do it! Don't do it! You dont see morphos because they just suck. I went that route too, and what a waste of time and money. low-medium level campy levers are the way to go if you dont have any old sti's in your basement, as they can be made to work well, and 9 speed campy levers work with 8 speed shimano drivetrains as well with a ghost-click. But don't discount bar-ends, I have them on one of my cross racer and after a little brain adjustment I don't have any issues with them for racing. If you set up your bars a little higher you can ride comfortably in the drops most of the time, and where you really must be on the hoods/tops (like climbing a steep hill) you're not supposed to be shifting anyway (you shift at the bottom to anticipate, right?). Really, after a short learning curve, the bar end location is not an issue. People that say bar-ends don't work for racing cross (especially at B/C level races) have probably never used them long enough to adjust. And they're a hell of a lot better when your drivetrain gets gooed up than STIs.