View Full Version : Heavy guy wants strong rims / wheelset, advice?


jasontkennedy
10-21-2006, 01:03 PM
I want to get a set of very sturdy rims. Ones that will handle a 250 LBS guy. I don't mind spending a couple hundred dollars <$300. Racing isn't my goal. Not bending rims is my goal. I want to ride many thousands of miles on them. What is a really robust rim?

My bike is a Giant Kronos - I think from the mid 90's. It has 700c size wheels on it already. The rear cassette has 7 gears on it. I have brand new clincher (tube, intertube, and rim liner) style specialized tires, and I'd like to stay with clincher style rims. Other than that I don't know what get. Any suggestions? BTW, I am not above buying used parts. In fact I many times prefer it.

Thanks!

Kerry Irons
10-21-2006, 04:13 PM
36 spokes, 14/15 guage, 3X pattern, hub or your choice. If you use a rim like the Velocity DeepV or MAVIC CXP 33, the wheel will be hell-for-stout and not set you back much. Find a good builder locally or via this board or Excel or Colorado Cyclist.

Argentius
10-21-2006, 05:30 PM
You say the "rear cassette has 7 gears." Is it a freewheel or cassette?

If it's a freewheel, that's an older style. In any case you probably have smaller dropout spacing than modern bikes, so you'll either need to source an old-school hub, or have a trusted bike shop "cold-set" (bend) your frame to fit the new spacing.

undies
10-22-2006, 10:13 PM
I'll put in a plug for my Salsa Delgado 36H rims. They've been rock solid thus far, although I only have about 500 miles on them so far. I had a LBS with wheelbuilding expertise build them up for me using Deore hubs. A local builder is nice because they will usually provide a free break-in truing, as well as some sort of warranty that is easy to collect on.

Whether it's a freewheel or cassette really doesn't matter if you are buying a whole new hub. But like Argentius said, you need to make sure that you can find a hub to fit your rear dropout spacing. For example, the Deore hub I used almost surely wouldn't fit in your frame because it's a 135mm hub. Your spacing is probably 126mm or 130mm. Most modern road hubs are 130mm.

JaeP
10-23-2006, 08:08 AM
Once again, with feelin', you can't go wrong with 32h Velocity Deep-V rims 14g spokes laced 3x to any decent hub is absolutely bombproof.

California L33
11-03-2006, 03:19 AM
“The whole aim of practical politics is to keep the populace alarmed (and hence clamorous to be led to safety) by an endless series of hobgoblins, most of them imaginary.”
H. L. Mencken.

Amen.

spookyload
11-03-2006, 04:07 AM
I would use straight 14 guage spokes too. I will second the deep section rim. Another option for your rear hub situation is to use the hubs you already have. That will save some money too. If you can go for a few days without the wheels, this will ensure the right hubs and save you some money in the end.

percy
11-03-2006, 04:41 AM
Re: spoke gauge.

Some custom wheel builders, such as Peter White, suggest that butted spokes actually build a more durable wheel than straight gauge. The theory seems to be that the spokes are strong where they need to be (at the hub and rim interface) but can flex a little more in the middle. Spokes typically don't break in the middle and allowing a little more flex takes stress off the rim eyelets, and also makes for a more compliant ride.

curlybike
11-03-2006, 07:38 AM
Re: spoke gauge.

Some custom wheel builders, such as Peter White, suggest that butted spokes actually build a more durable wheel than straight gauge. The theory seems to be that the spokes are strong where they need to be (at the hub and rim interface) but can flex a little more in the middle. Spokes typically don't break in the middle and allowing a little more flex takes stress off the rim eyelets, and also makes for a more compliant ride.

I have found the DB spokes to be more durable, myself!

Balderick
11-04-2006, 12:27 AM
Hmmm.

I have a similar problem to that of the person who started this thread.

Background - club racer, 105 kg, like to sprint.

I cracked my second Ritchey DS Pro (32 spoke, laced with straight spokes to a Dt Swiss hubs). the first wheel, identical to the last one I cracked, had the same problem as the most recent one - cracks developed around the spoke holes, more pronounced on the drive side.

Decided the DS Pro is just not for me, although they were (until the cracking) very trouble free - never needed a true or any fiddle at all.

I needed a new rear wheel. Looked at pre-built stuff, but they the main players all have low spoke counts.

LBS, who know me wheel and most of the guys there race with me, recommended I build up a new rear wheel using my existing hub, a double eyeletted DT Swiss RR1.1 rim laced with DT Swiss DB spokes. I agreed.

I did raise the possibility of having bladed or aero spokes, instead of DB spokes. I thought it might give some aerodynamic advantage, or at least claw back some of the loss of aero efficicency that would follow from a move from a medium profile rim (DS Pro) to a low profile rim (rr1.1).

As one of my main strengths in racing is a long fast sprint, the aerodynamics of a wheel is important as I spend a fair bit of time riding out the front at high speed. Keen not to make it harder than it already is.

105slowrider
11-05-2006, 09:59 PM
either Velocity Deep V's or Mavic Open pros. Had the deep v's for 5 years & opens pros for 1 year & no dramas.

bsaunder
11-06-2006, 12:05 PM
I'm ~225lbs and have ~2000miles on a set of 32 spoke Mavic open pro's with ultegra hubs and 14/15 db spokes. Excel built them up for me in early spring and they are still running very true. They are used for daily lunch time rides (5-13 guys trying to make the others puke) and commuting.

For an even stronger wheelset, go with the open pro CD rim and possibly 36 spoke.

cmg
11-06-2006, 12:55 PM
if you don't go for Velocity Deep V's consider the velocity aerohead rim. i'm using the aerohead rims with DT swiss revolution spokes no problems and i'm at 200lb. visit the spoke info sheet at odds and endos, http://oddsandendos.safeshopper.com/11/cat11.htm?440 . Double butted spokes are the way to go.

California L33
11-06-2006, 10:31 PM
So which rim makes the stronger rear wheel, the Velocity Deep-V or the Velocity Aerohead O/C?

FAST2U
11-12-2006, 10:18 AM
Deep V is a stronger rim, but heavier. Aerohead OC is plenty stong for most applications. Superspokes does some good builds for larger riders. I had a DT RR1.1 White Ind, set done, its unreal strong.

dekindy
11-12-2006, 10:32 AM
bikeforums.net has a Clydesdales section. Do a search on wheels and you will get tons of information. You will be surprised at the success some heavier riders are having with the lower spoke count wheels. I weighed 215lbs when I got my new bike with Shimano RH-550's 16/20. A lot of folks have had good experience. There were some bad. Now that I have learned more I would go with the Velocity's or Mavics that are being recommended.

http://bikewiseoxford.com/page.cfm?PageID=71
http://www.oddsandendos.com/
http://ergottwheels.com/
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/Wheels.asp
http://speeddream.com/

estone2
11-12-2006, 04:41 PM
I want to get a set of very sturdy rims. Ones that will handle a 250 LBS guy. I don't mind spending a couple hundred dollars <$300. Racing isn't my goal. Not bending rims is my goal. I want to ride many thousands of miles on them. What is a really robust rim?

My bike is a Giant Kronos - I think from the mid 90's. It has 700c size wheels on it already. The rear cassette has 7 gears on it. I have brand new clincher (tube, intertube, and rim liner) style specialized tires, and I'd like to stay with clincher style rims. Other than that I don't know what get. Any suggestions? BTW, I am not above buying used parts. In fact I many times prefer it.

Thanks!
I think there are some Mavic Cosmic Elites on RBR Classifieds for like 150 to 250 bucks.
They're nice, nice wheels. 1900g/pair so they're not that light. But they're stiff, 30mm aero rims, and they are BULLETPROOF.
I have my own pair, and I like em enough that I almost bought the Classifieds pair cuz I like em that much.
I'm a little guy, 150 pounds, but the wheels have >25000 miles on them (I got mine from a friend), and they're still true. Neither wheel's ever been trued. And once or twice I've accidentally ridden down a 3 stair or so set, or ran head on into a big pothole, etc (read: dumb stuff that threw me clear of the bike, and the wheels didnt feel anything)

Cosmic Elites are heavy, because they're strong. Nothing can break these wheels, within reason. Even outside of reason (honestly, who rides road bikes down stairs...)

HTH!
-estone2

cmg
11-12-2006, 07:46 PM
if your considering mavic open pro record hub combination check this eBay auction http://cgi.ebay.com/Campagnolo-RECORD-Mavic-OPEN-PRO-Silver-Pair_W0QQitemZ170047493080QQihZ007QQcategoryZ58099 QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem. i have this setup, road on them all summer long, 1000 miles approx., did a MS150 ride on them. No problems and i weigh 200lbs. rode on texas's wonderful chip and seal all summer.

PSM
11-13-2006, 05:04 AM
I have a set of Mavic Open Pros with Ultegra hubs. I've been very happy with them. They were huge improvement over my Bontrager Race Lites. I've had to make a few minor adjustments, after my initial rides, to get them true. Since, they have been tough and maintenance free.

cmg
11-13-2006, 08:02 AM
there is a set wheelsmith gold label wheels on eBay for $169 plus shipping. This sounds like a good deal. Wheelsmith gold label is their best wheels, really light db14-db15 spokes. Do a search "mavic, campagnolo chorus wheels" and you'll see them. The reason i bring them up is that i have wheelsmith wheels, they will take a beating. Chorus hubs are worth building up into another set of wheels in case you need to.