Morning all.

Im in the process of procuring parts for my next bike.

I'm wondering what kinds of suggestions you may have for a wheel set for clydesdales.

I don't race crits. I do the odd Tri, and TT, but mostly just ride for enjoyment. I average about 5000 km per year.

Suggestions?

I've been looking at America Classic 420s, but Im not sure that they're the best bet.

Thanks. :confused:

Well, I'm going through the same questions. I've been running some Mavic Cosmic Equipes for about 5 years, and they are very strong, but kind of heavy, and the bladed spokes are now all turned and creaking, but still true. The tensions are no longer equal. Signs of death for wheels.

I think what I may do is go back to a more traditonal wheelset and build up some 32h DA hubs I have with Mavic CXP33 rims and 14g straight-gauge in back and 14/15 butted in front, with brass nips. I've tried to run butted spokes in back before and found they weren't heavy duty enough. I've never had a problem with lighter duty front wheels. the CXP33 rims are semi aero, but the real advantage to that shape is strength.

Regular spokes make for no-hassle fixes as I can get a spoke at any shop. Also, easier to true should the need arise than the paired spoke, G3, or otherwise on-standard lacing patterns.

brewster

A 32, or perhaps 36 spoke, 14/15 spokes, 3X with something like a Velocity Aerohead or MAVIC Open Pro should be fine for a rear wheel. If you've had experience that this is not enough, then the next step would be a deep section rim, like a Velocity DeepV. 36 spokes will get you strength for a lot less weight than a deep section rim, though not as much strength as a deep section rim. Butted spokes build a stronger wheel than straight gauge - spokes "never" break in the butted section, and the butting improves force distribution across the wheel. An Aerohead or OP weighs about the same as the rim in the 420, and you won't be left with any proprietary systems.

Funny that you mention Velocity Rims. I was just looking at Dave's Wheel's "Aerolites" I think they were called. He does a build with White Industries Hubs, Velocity Rims (not sure which) and laces them somewhat dependent on rider weight. 24 spoke 16 Drive side rear wheel, 18 spoke radial fron wheel. Good price too. 520 a pair.

B

It's true spokes never break in the middle butted thinner section, always the ends. It could be that rim was not strong enough and that 14/15 spokes in the rear were. For the record, they were Mavic Open4 rims.

What you are saying about butted spokes actually being stronger than the same wheel with straight gauge is echoed in the FAQ at DT Swiss. However, I've heard mechanics state that if you really want a strong wheel, you should use the heavier straight gauge spokes. When you're 200+ you have to consider these things, since we clydesdales shouldn't try to use a lot of these lightweight wheels meant for some guy 150lbs. I'm debating.

brewster

Open Pro rims to Ultegra or DA hubs. 14-15 butted spokes. 3 cross pattern. I'm using brass nipples, but you could probably get away w/alu.

I'm 200 lbs, and have had no issues whatsoever in 2 years on that setup.

I know it's not sexy, but this setup does work.

It's true spokes never break in the middle butted thinner section, always the ends. It could be that rim was not strong enough and that 14/15 spokes in the rear were. For the record, they were Mavic Open4 rims.


Yeah, the reason they break at the nipple, or the hub end is because of the stress concentration caused by the threads, and the "head" whether its bent or not. These concentrations can be 3-4 times the stress seen in the middle of the spoke.

What you are saying about butted spokes actually being stronger than the same wheel with straight gauge is echoed in the FAQ at DT Swiss. However, I've heard mechanics state that if you really want a strong wheel, you should use the heavier straight gauge spokes

You should contemplate whether DT Swiss is more knowledgeable about spokes than the mechanics you have heard. Many people follow some party line they heard somewhere (Bicycling magazine?) without thinking it through or knowing any better. There is NOTHING about a straight gauge spoke that makes a stronger wheel. However, they are cheaper, and often what the shop has in stock, so the next logical argument is that "what we have in stock builds a stronger wheel than what we don't have in stock." Butted spokes build better wheels, full stop.

I weigh about 230 these days (210's coming back, though...), and I've ridden long miles when I weighed over 250. Every time I've tried to go with fewer than 32 spokes, I've had trouble soon rather than late--36s seem to do much better.
Right now I'm using Rhyno Lites with 36 14-ga. Wheelsmith spokes, laced up by a good local guy, and they've been bulletproof for about 1200 miles.
I can't think of a reason butted spokes would weaker, but these have been so reliable I might not change anyway.

I'm down to 208 and have Mavic Kysrium Elites. Holding up great. Still true after beating them on some rough New England roads.

Funny that you mention Velocity Rims. I was just looking at Dave's Wheel's "Aerolites" I think they were called. He does a build with White Industries Hubs, Velocity Rims (not sure which) and laces them somewhat dependent on rider weight. 24 spoke 16 Drive side rear wheel, 18 spoke radial fron wheel. Good price too. 520 a pair.

B

am over 200 lbs and they are fabulous wheels....Also try Mike Garcia as he can build them cheaper if necessary but not with White hubs.

I weigh about 230 these days (210's coming back, though...), and I've ridden long miles when I weighed over 250. Every time I've tried to go with fewer than 32 spokes, I've had trouble soon rather than late--36s seem to do much better.
Right now I'm using Rhyno Lites with 36 14-ga. Wheelsmith spokes, laced up by a good local guy, and they've been bulletproof for about 1200 miles.
I can't think of a reason butted spokes would weaker, but these have been so reliable I might not change anyway.
Around 200 for me these days and I use 14/15s no problem. Rims are CXP33s with brass nips and 36 rear 32 front. I have a set of hill climb wheels built with Revs on open pro 32 rims and they have never had any problems either though I wouldn't use em for training wheels.

These rims in this configuration have never failed me. yeah they may not the lightest thing buit i cant ride the lightest thing so i have to go for the best set i can get.

I use Mavic Open Pro's 32 hole, 14/15 D.T. d.b. spokes, Campy Chorus hubs front and rear. If you have a good wheel builder these wheel should be fine. I usually have to true mine a couple of times after a wheel is built but they stay fairly true after that. I've never had a spoke break and usually get about 15,000 miles on a rear rim (I live in pot hole city).

I was told that 14/15 double butted spokes are stronger than straight gauge.

I'm 215lbs, I ride lots of chip&seal, cracked pavement & potholes here in the high desert. I'm running Campy Veloce hubs and Fir Net97 rims (similar to cpx33's but slightly deeper) and I've had absolutely no problems. A good handbuilt wheelset is almost always cheaper than a factory set, and often stronger, but not always as light. However it is senseless for us clydesdales to obsess over a few grams when we can easily sweat off over a kilogram in the course of a single ride. My advice: go for the strongest, least expensive handbuilt wheel you find, and then ride the hell out of it!