I'm looking at picking up a used powertap. Apart from going wireless this year, were there any major changes in technology/accuracy over the past several years, or are they all pretty much the same? Also, what about longevity for these units? Does anyone have any tips for the used powertap shopper??

I'm looking at picking up a used powertap. Apart from going wireless this year, were there any major changes in technology/accuracy over the past several years, or are they all pretty much the same? Also, what about longevity for these units? Does anyone have any tips for the used powertap shopper??

There are 3.5 models:

Standard (which uses virtual cadence and has a smaller storage capacity)
Pro (has hard-wired cadence and larger storage, along with a few more computer features, but is otherwise the same hub as standard)
SL (which has the pro features but in a DT Swiss / Hugi hubshell which weighs less than the pro); and
SL 2.4, which is the wireless version of the SL

To me the best bang for the buck is with the pro. Yeah, it's heavy, but it's not like the SL is really $400 lighter. Otherwise it has all of the same data analysis features of the SL. The std. can't smooth the power reading on the computer itself, which makes it more difficult to use for pacing in a tt.

So I'd save my money on the Pro over the SL. Remember, you're gonna need an extra $125 for a copy of CyclingPeaks (software) and Training and Racing with a Power Meter (book). I'd also recommend signing up for the google wattage list and checking out the power training forum on cyclingforums.

Cheers,

SGP

There are 3.5 models:

Standard (which uses virtual cadence and has a smaller storage capacity)
Pro (has hard-wired cadence and larger storage, along with a few more computer features, but is otherwise the same hub as standard)
SL (which has the pro features but in a DT Swiss / Hugi hubshell which weighs less than the pro); and
SL 2.4, which is the wireless version of the SL

To me the best bang for the buck is with the pro. Yeah, it's heavy, but it's not like the SL is really $400 lighter. Otherwise it has all of the same data analysis features of the SL. The std. can't smooth the power reading on the computer itself, which makes it more difficult to use for pacing in a tt.

So I'd save my money on the Pro over the SL. Remember, you're gonna need an extra $125 for a copy of CyclingPeaks (software) and Training and Racing with a Power Meter (book). I'd also recommend signing up for the google wattage list and checking out the power training forum on cyclingforums.

Cheers,

SGP

Thanks! Have there been any changes in the technology in the past couple of years?

I don't have a PT, in part because I used campy AND live in the pacific northwest, and was advised that the SL is much more rainproof as the electronics are inside. Some up here still have the Pro or Standard and say it is fine, others have had to send theirs back often for repairs.

Also, the SL is made in Shimano and campy, you can only get the Pro in Shimano.

I don't have a PT, in part because I used campy AND live in the pacific northwest, and was advised that the SL is much more rainproof as the electronics are inside. Some up here still have the Pro or Standard and say it is fine, others have had to send theirs back often for repairs.

Also, the SL is made in Shimano and campy, you can only get the Pro in Shimano.

Good points. I live in the desert, so if it's raining, I'm on the trainer. But yeah, if you know you'll be riding in the rain, the SL might be a better bet (though IIRC, a little dialectric grease on the hub internals of the std hub is supposed to be pretty effective too).

Good points. I live in the desert, so if it's raining, I'm on the trainer. But yeah, if you know you'll be riding in the rain, the SL might be a better bet (though IIRC, a little dialectric grease on the hub internals of the std hub is supposed to be pretty effective too).

I'm in Colorado, so rain not really an issue. Still wondering whether or not there has been any technology changes in the past couple of years that I should be aware of as I am shopping for a used unit.

From what I've read, the new SL 2.4 has some improvements with a coded HR monitor, which is a definite improvement from my existing SL. Cycleops knows that the HR feature is a weak-point on their old models. I also read the the 2.4 gz frequency is highly reliable for short-range transmissions and should be pretty much interference-proof (i think i was somebody say this over on WW).

if you know you'll be riding in the rain, the SL might be a better bet

If you do a lot of rain training I'd avoid the SL as when it leaks, it's done and you need to send it back for a rebuild. They don't dry out on their own like the old model has been known to do. In the first year I had my SL it was sent back twice after getting stuck in the rain and having it die. I also know a few others who have had similar issues. Mine doesn't get ridden if there is a chance of rain anymore.

I'm sure some guys have had great luck but mine was really bad with regard to water sensitivity. I have had much better luck in wet weather with both SRMs and Ergomos neither of which has failed on me due to water. I even had pretty good luck with the 1st gen Cyclops PT.

From what I've read, the new SL 2.4 has some improvements with a coded HR monitor, which is a definite improvement from my existing SL. Cycleops knows that the HR feature is a weak-point on their old models. I also read the the 2.4 gz frequency is highly reliable for short-range transmissions and should be pretty much interference-proof (i think i was somebody say this over on WW).

For what it is worth, I talked with CycleOps today regarding changes in the basics of the powertap. I was informed that the powertap and powertap pro (both non-SLs) hubs have remained the same for years. Also, you can turn a powertap into a powertap pro by simply upgrading the computer and adding the wiring harness for the cadence. My take away was that there are no real differences between the standard and pro hubs apart from the yellow cover on the pro. The above is important to me as I'm finding quite a few people sell just the hub, and some sell just the computer.

My take away was that there are no real differences between the standard and pro hubs apart from the yellow cover on the pro.

That's what I told you in my first reply.

Pro (has hard-wired cadence and larger storage, along with a few more computer features, but is otherwise the same hub as standard)

:p

Quote:
Originally Posted by LyncStar
My take away was that there are no real differences between the standard and pro hubs apart from the yellow cover on the pro.


That's what I told you in my first reply.

Quote:

Pro (has hard-wired cadence and larger storage, along with a few more computer features, but is otherwise the same hub as standard)


Well, you weren't really clear that the differences were not in the hub itself, but in the computer! Thus, the hub isn't the limiting factor, the computer is.:D

If you do a lot of rain training I'd avoid the SL as when it leaks, it's done and you need to send it back for a rebuild. They don't dry out on their own like the old model has been known to do. In the first year I had my SL it was sent back twice after getting stuck in the rain and having it die. I also know a few others who have had similar issues. Mine doesn't get ridden if there is a chance of rain anymore.


I bought my SL in October, and the new sealed electronics seem to work splendidly even in some pretty horrific weather I've ridden in so far this year. I don't avoid rain at all.

If you do a lot of rain training I'd avoid the SL as when it leaks, it's done and you need to send it back for a rebuild.

What did your PT do when it stopped working? Mine stopped working so I called Saris. They think it is the harness so they are supposed to be sending a new one. It will work occasionally but will alternate between being correct and telling me I am doing 78 mph and putting out 1800 watts while doing 10mph on a flat. I have changed the batteries, opened it to let it dry (no moisture visible), adjusted the sensor and everything else I can think of.

Mine just stopped working the first time due to water. No funny readings. It had a high voltage draw on the batteries due to an internal short (water contamination) which would drain a new set of batteries in a matter of minutes.
Second time the torque tubes died a slow death (or at least that's what I think happened). It'd start loosing all readings from the hub but the transmission indicator would be solid. That was probably just a fluke as any PT could have a torque tube go out.

Both were fixed under warranty. I've never had the issue you're having but it could be the harness as they've been known to go bad also.

I bought my SL in October, and the new sealed electronics seem to work splendidly even in some pretty horrific weather I've ridden in so far this year. I don't avoid rain at all.

Yours may have one of the good ones then. I know there are guys out there that ride them in some nasty conditions and haven't had an issues. But I've seen new 06 wheels suffer the same fate mine did in similar wet conditions.

Mine just stopped working the first time due to water. No funny readings. It had a high voltage draw on the batteries due to an internal short (water contamination) which would drain a new set of batteries in a matter of minutes.
Second time the torque tubes died a slow death (or at least that's what I think happened). It'd start loosing all readings from the hub but the transmission indicator would be solid. That was probably just a fluke as any PT could have a torque tube go out.

Both were fixed under warranty. I've never had the issue you're having but it could be the harness as they've been known to go bad also.

When a hub goes bad, do you send the entire wheel back to PT or does the customer have to deal with unlacing and then re-lacing??

When a hub goes bad, do you send the entire wheel back to PT or does the customer have to deal with unlacing and then re-lacing??

You just send the whole wheel back.

Is there a reason to purchase the SL as a training tool? The Pro seems to have all the function without as high a price.

If you have campy and don't want to mess about with conversion cassettes.
The wiring is supposed to be better sealed from the elements, as the elctronics are all INSIDE the hub. Can't speak from experience, though.

Is there a reason to purchase the SL as a training tool? The Pro seems to have all the function without as high a price.

The SL is a bit lighter than the Pro, and they are now wireless, not a feature offered in the Pro/Standard setup.