I year or so ago I had a set of DT wheels made up from 28h 240s hubs, RR1.1 rims and Revo spokes, radial front and 2x rear. However, I have put on a bit of weight (now about 84kg) and the wheels are probably not strong enough, and have had to be trued a few times.

One option is just to sell the wheels and buy something a bit tougher. But I like the hubs and would like to get some use from them rather than starting again. Would stronger spokes, perhaps 2x front and 3x rear make the wheels tougher? Maybe some stronger rims? Mavic OP or CXP33, or perhaps Velocity Aerohead? Any thoughts on salvaging some use from these wheels?

You can go to a 3x build with 14/15 spokes, but 84 kg is not all that heavy, certainly there are heavier guys riding 'weaker' wheels than yours. I don't think all is lost like you make it out to be. If the wheel build is solid, I would ride the wheels - it's not like they will collapse under you. Revo's are actually very strong, especially if you have the 2.0/1.5 ones.

As an example, I raced on pre-built Mavic Cosmos wheels which are a fairly low spoke count for my 215 pounds - did this for 2 seasons with no issues - the wheels were used when I got them and I never even had to true them.

The combination of lightweight spokes and a semi-narow flange spacing rear hub is most likely the problem. Dt 240's have a somewhat narrow flange spacing which reduces dish but also reduces lateral stiffness. If you have the rear wheel rebuilt with 14/15 gauge spokes it will make a difference. Also depending on when your RR1.1 rims were made and if they are single eyelet models check for cracks around the eyelets.

Also depending on when your RR1.1 rims were made and if they are single eyelet models check for cracks around the eyelets.

That's what I was thinking when he said they were needing to be trued a lot. Either the spokes are coming loose (ie uneven tension, or too little tension for the load) or something is yielding.... and the mostly likely candidate for yielding with these rims would be cracking at the rim holes.

rossb... is it only the rear rim that is having trouble, or is it both? Inspect closely to see if there are cracks at the eyelets... most likely on the drive rear. If that is what's happening you might be able to get it warranteed. DT is making some tougher socket eyeletted rims now, but I think they only come in 32 hole.

If the rim is bad but you want to keep the spokes then you need a rim with the same or slightly greater ERD... assuming that the spokes were sized ideally to start with. The DT rim is 599... Aerohead and OP are listed at 602.

Thanks for the replies. The problems have been mostly in the rear wheel, so there could be an issue with the eyelets, although I can't see any cracks. It sounds like a re-build with Aeroheads and 3x 14/15 spokes will solve the problem. If the rims are still good, they will probably end up on ebay. Thanks for the help.

I weigh about the same and have been riding 28 spoke CXP-33's with 14-15 DB spokes for 3-4 years now with no problems.

Get rid of the crappy spokes, build 'em 3x with straight 14s and ride the things.

Thanks for the replies. The problems have been mostly in the rear wheel, so there could be an issue with the eyelets, although I can't see any cracks. It sounds like a re-build with Aeroheads and 3x 14/15 spokes will solve the problem. If the rims are still good, they will probably end up on ebay. Thanks for the help.

If you want the wheels to be tough, I'd go with a heavier rim on the back. Aeroheads are lighter than what you have now.

But... I'm wondering if you need to spend any money. The components you have now *might* be fine. They aren't necessarily underbuilt for you... maybe just poorly built. If your rims aren't cracked I'd look at the spoke tension. For starters it needs to be even on each side... you can check by tone if you don't have a tensiometer.

A hub with narrow spacing will make the wheel less stiff, but it should be less likely for the spokes to go slack, too.

Are you truing these yourself? Who built them? Maybe having a good builder go over them would be the most prudent course... unless you want to get new stuff.

The wheels were built by a local wheelbuilder who seems to be highly regarded, and have been trued by the LBS - although plucking the spokes produces what seems to be very uneven tension. As the rims seem okay, perhaps I should just have them re-built with 14/15 spokes, 3x in the rear. If the rims do develop a problem, replacing them with CXP-33s sounds like it may be a better choice.

The wheels were built by a local wheelbuilder who seems to be highly regarded.

I'm wondering why you haven't taken it back to him. If the LBS is making the wheel true but the tension is uneven, they are probably making things worse. Most guys at LBSs are not good at building (or properly truing) wheels. The original builder should stand by his work.

Just go to heavier gage spokes on the drive side. Use a heavier gage double butted spoke, always use a double butted spoke.

You might be a bit heavy for a 28 spoke wheel, but then again it may just be that the wheel has gotten a bit loose over time. Assuming everything is OK, checking the spokes with a tension gauge might be in order. If they're not tight enough they'll loosen more quickly and require more truing.

What about a taller Velocity rim such as the Fusion or Deep V, IRD Cadence Aero, Speedcific Niobium 30, etc?

1. Keep the 2x lacing pattern on the rear. Reason being, that the spokes have likely already made little grooves in the flange. The 240's have what I would call a higher-than-normal frequency of flange failures. Going 3x would just make new grooves and so weaken the flange more.

2. Just go with 14/15 (NOT straight 14g) spokes on the rear and you will be good to go. Id actually say just the drive side is enough.

3. Have the tension checked out. Spokes break 95% of the time (my educated estimate) because of too low tension.

Dude,, I'm 200lbs, (noidea what that is in Kg's) But I ride on 18 in front and 20 on the back.

Dude,, I'm 200lbs, (noidea what that is in Kg's) But I ride on 18 in front and 20 on the back.

You're 90.9 kilos.

What kind of rims, what kind of spokes, and what kind of lacing are you riding?

Alex a-class,, I'm not really sure which model #
flat blade spokes.

Don't over react to this issue. The DT rims are good quality and should be okay. I think the problem relates to the spokes on the drive side rear. Get some 14/15's installed on the drive side rear only, and my guess is that your problems will go away. Installing heavy spokes in the non-drive rear is a waste since these spokes have very low tenion due to dish in the wheel. Make sure the builder checks the tension properly with a gauge and you should be good to go.