Anyone know the difference btw the Dura Ace and Ultegra 10spd Chains? Per the shimano web site they weigh the same. The cost difference isn't that much when you find them on sale. I do see the ultegra roller link plate is grey instead of plated, which doesn't matter to me.

Is there any difference in durability? Claimed or from experience?

thx

Anyone know the difference btw the Dura Ace and Ultegra 10spd Chains? Per the shimano web site they weigh the same. The cost difference isn't that much when you find them on sale. I do see the ultegra roller link plate is grey instead of plated, which doesn't matter to me.

Is there any difference in durability? Claimed or from experience?

thx
THE DURA ACE CHAIN IS PLATTED FOR MORE DUABILITY AGAINST THE ELEMENTS

Both are horrible to deal with because of the inability to remove for thorough cleaning. Go with a KMC...cheaper and removeable....

The Flash

Both are horrible to deal with because of the inability to remove for thorough cleaning. Go with a KMC...cheaper and removeable....

The Flash

I'm using a Conex link (Campy version) on my DA 10 chain. The link adds cost though. What is the quality of the KMC?

an owner of a lbs. He's a former Cat 1 and runs a tight shop, so I figured his opinion has some weight.

He claimed that Dura Ace lasts longer than Ultegra.

As I stated, this was his opinion.

With regards to taking the chain off for cleaning, I use my DA with KMC quick links (I bought a pack of six).

After 3k miles, no issues. I use 55/39 with 11-23.

People who run triple may have problems. I don't know first hand.

Remember - if you go this route, its best to get the links for 10spd if you run a 10spd chain.

link with my 10 sp Record drive train. Works fantastic. No issues.

Both are horrible to deal with because of the inability to remove for thorough cleaning. Go with a KMC...cheaper and removeable....

Why do you want to remove your chain for cleaning? I have only been cycling for a couple of years, but I've never seen a reason to do this, and I ride through lots and lots of crap. I just clean it on the bike...

Can't speak for the Shimano, but I used a KMC chain with my Campy drivetrain once and was disappointed with its shifting performance; not as quick or quiet-shifting as the OEM.

I used to take my chain off to clean it, and now I use automotive disc brake cleaner when I really have to clean it. Other than that, I wipe it off before and after each ride. There's just no real reason to take it off otherwise.

I prefer to dunk it a few times and put a good scrubbing on it. It's just a PIA to do that on the bike.

Plus, I can carry a connecting link pretty easy on a ride. Fixing a Shimano chain requires that you have those special pins and their exact tool. Much easier to use the KMC....

Flash

with both of your points. I always make it a habit to carry a spare set of connector links. It weighs nothing and takes a trivial amount of space.

As for cleaning, I much prefer to remove the chain completely, put it in an old cytomax bottle and mix with hot water and degreaser. Three minutes or so of shaking, and then rinse out with hot water until the water begins to run clear. Dry with a rag immediately, then lube and let sit overnight. The following morning, wipe off the excess.

I also make a habit of cleaning out the front rings as well as the rear cassette.

I don't mind this work. I find it relaxing. And it definitely keeps my drive cleaner than other methods I've tried.

The DA chain and the KMC links work together well enough for me to keep the drive train pristine and use the chain that I prefer.

The CN-7800 Dura Ace chain and the altegra are 9/10 speed chains and are interchangeable. The CN-7801 dura Ace is narrower uses a slightly different pin and is 10 speed only.

I recently switched from the 10 speed Ultegra from the 10 speed Dura Ace. Cost was a couple of bucks but I figured they were both the same.

I do use Dura Ace and Ultegra cassettes interchangeably and with the exception of weight, I can tell absolutely no difference between the 2 of them. For me, the cost difference is just too high for a minute weight savings (especially when you are 225 lbs.)

I use a Shimano 10 specific Connex link. In 5,000 miles, it has never failed on me and as I mentioned, I am big rider with a lot of power.

Can't speak for the Shimano, but I used a KMC chain with my Campy drivetrain once and was disappointed with its shifting performance; not as quick or quiet-shifting as the OEM.

If you used the "Campy specific" DX10, then you had the same problem as the original Campy chain - too wide. It shared the 6.2mm width which Campy abandoned with the C10 Ultra at 5.9mm. The 6.2 is too finicky in adjustment and has a tendency to drag against the adjacent cog.

I've been using the 6.05mm "Shimano specific" DX10s on my Campy 10 drivetrain and it is dead quiet and shifts beautifully. My one gripe (and this appears to be a concern with ALL 10s chains) is short chain life, about 1500-2000 miles. And for all you posters out there that claim 4000-5000+, etc., all I can say is that the short chain life has been borne out by my experience and dozens of our customers. As for longevity, the best seems to be the Campy Ultra, but it's pricy.

Following Campy's lead, KMC has come out with a 5.88mm Campy/Shimano chain. It hit our shop a couple of days after I installed the 6.05 so I'm going to try that one next.

The KMC's are reasonably priced and all come with a dedicated toolless master link.:thumbsup:

I've been using the 6.05mm "Shimano specific" DX10s on my Campy 10 drivetrain and it is dead quiet and shifts beautifully. My one gripe (and this appears to be a concern with ALL 10s chains) is short chain life, about 1500-2000 miles. And for all you posters out there that claim 4000-5000+, etc., all I can say is that the short chain life has been borne out by my experience and dozens of our customers. As for longevity, the best seems to be the Campy Ultra, but it's pricy.

Following Campy's lead, KMC has come out with a 5.88mm Campy/Shimano chain. It hit our shop a couple of days after I installed the 6.05 so I'm going to try that one next.

The KMC's are reasonably priced and all come with a dedicated toolless master link.:thumbsup:

I'd like to know how you measured the chain wear. A Park chain Checker is not a good tool.

I'm one of those who regularly get 5-6,000 from a Campy 10 chain. My chains usually have about 1/4 of the allowable 1/16" per foot elongation after 6,000 miles, but the roller wear at this point is at my personally set limit (.235-.240 between rollers). The side clearance has also increased from .005 to .013, so the chain has a lot of side flex also.


The top of the line KMC chains I've seen cost as much or more than a Campy chain. At $42-45 for a Chorus level chain, the cost per mile is pretty cheap.